the Hose on the choke pull off pod hooks to #2, This needs to be hooked up to pull the choke open a little after the motor has started. If it dies when the choke is open then you need to adjust the curb idle screw (the two screws in the first picture) one is curb idle and one if fast idle (when choke is on). the screw that rest against the carb housing is curb idle, the one on the step cam is fast idle. #3 looks like Brake booster or PCV valve hook up, #4 could be vacuum advance,#5 EGR valve leave hooked up, #6 is charcoal canister for gas tank venting. not sure where #7 goes but I'd leave it.. #12 is where the PCV filter line hooks to. I think #9 hooks to #1. good luck
Hey Southerntoon, I've not worked on a two barrel but I know that on the Carter YFA's a film of varnish can build up below the choke butterfly,holding the choke closed. This gave me fits when this happened on my Ford van, what with the engine doghouse nacelle in the way I couldn't see down the throat of the carb initially. I addressed it with carb cleaner and the broken off stub of a toothbrush.
What program did you use for those text arrows? They would certainly be helpful in stuff I try to post from time to time.
The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
I put this carb on about a year ago and never hooked up most of the vaccum lines or tuned the carb. Cranked the jeep a few times over the past year to move it from here to there etc. Now that I am actually trying to tune I am having issues. Might be gummed up with ethanol etc. from sitting mostly this past year. Right now it cranks - idle is high and the choke plate is closed - never opens and if I try turning the choke plate open/vertical the engine dies??
I used snagit for adding the arrows to the pictures - great software.
hi, if you tried to run it with all those lines unhooked then you had a huge vacuum leak and thats why it wouldn't run with the choke open.. I gave you a link to the vacuum lines in my first post and told you how to adjust the curb idle in my second post The you would need to adjust the air mixture screws in the front base plate (one is right above the #5 arrow) after you get it running.. the dizzy should be hooked up to #4 if you are not going to hook up everything like in the digram I sent and the choke pull off pod needs hooked up to #2 the hose on it is already bent for that hook up..
I appreciate your help. I did have almost everything hooked up somewhere when I ran it. I unhooked everything for the photos. Just trying to get advice on where things go. I did get the diagram and it is much appreciated - but I think I am missing a lot of parts in the diagram.
Decided to take the carb off and open and clean - noticed that there is no "Baffle" in the bowl/float. How does that affect the carb?
It doesn't. They are hit and miss having them or not from what I have seen.
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)