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Unread 10-28-2013, 06:36 PM   #1
Savemycj
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1975 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: , North Carolina
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intermediate cj5 driveshaft

Hey guys, I'm in a bit of a situation. I'm in the process of replacing my original suspension. I have a 1975 cj5. I already ordered a 3" suspension kit and 1/2" shackles for it. I know this will cause driveline issues in the rear and that I likely need a DC shaft. I'm seriously looking into an XJ or Ford Explorer shaft that I can take to a reputable shop and get shortened and balanced. And now to the problem.... I am on a military base and my Jeep is 600 miles away. Does anyone out there have the same/similar setup that could measure this for me? My jeep has a 258 on a 3 speed (sorry, don't know which. T-14 maybe?) and a Dana 20 T-case, connected to a Dana 44 axle. I have a couple weeks planned for the holidays this year and don't want to wait around the whole time for parts to be made and sent to me. I want as smooth of an install as I can get (I know, don't laugh). Thanks for any help!!!

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Unread 10-28-2013, 10:36 PM   #2
jeepdaddy2000
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1971 CJ5 
 
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Location: Eagle Point Oregon
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The suspension lift (3 1/2" total) shouldn't effect your driveline enough to replace it.
You can drop the cross member to ease the angle if you feel the need.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 08:14 AM   #3
CSP
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And if it does affect it you really need to actually measure it or have someone measure it for you. Every setup is a little bit different.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 02:03 PM   #4
Savemycj
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So you don't think it'll be much of a problem? I do plan on driving the heck out of it every day and wheeling it as much as I can over the holidays. I just don't want to be driving down the highway feeling all the vibes. It rattles enough as it is now, hehe. When I am home it's my daily driver and safety is one of my biggest concerns.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 02:10 PM   #5
Grumpy_one
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1976 CJ5 
 
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I did the CV (double cardan) upgrade to my rear driveshaft. Found one in the junkyard for about 35.00. It'll cost to have it shortened (about 50.00-100.00, cant remember off hand) and had to buy a 10 spline yoke for about 20.00 (used, new can be found for about 40.00), or just drop the skid plate about an inch. That's what I did for years on mine when it was a DD with a 2.5" lift. Did some serious wheeling like that as well (Rubicon several trips, and yeah, little sluice box). Worked fine.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 02:37 PM   #6
Savemycj
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That price sounds manageable. I would love to get a custom Tom Woods shaft, but they're kinda pricey. I don't really want to lower the crossmember though for ground clearance. I can always hold off on changing the driveshaft until I save up a little more for it. I just want some peace of mind for the time I'll be driving it. Anyone know if it'll cause a problem at that height when the rear axle droops?
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Unread 10-29-2013, 05:07 PM   #7
Grumpy_one
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savemycj View Post
That price sounds manageable. I would love to get a custom Tom Woods shaft, but they're kinda pricey. I don't really want to lower the crossmember though for ground clearance. I can always hold off on changing the driveshaft until I save up a little more for it. I just want some peace of mind for the time I'll be driving it. Anyone know if it'll cause a problem at that height when the rear axle droops?
I miss quoted my total lift, it was 2.5" in the springs and 1" in the shackles for a 3.5" total lift. Dropping the plate and adding shims in the rear (2.5 deg I think) did the trick for me for years. Sounds like you don't do too much severe crawling to be worried about that kind of clearance. It's a real easy fix compared to new drive line. I've done both. I'm in the middle of installing the new drive line. The shim thing for the skid plate and rear end is going to be your easiest, cheapest fix for what your doing. I'll even send you mine if you need them. Just pulled them out last week. I have a '76 CJ5 with a Dana 20. Take a look at what I have. The shims have 2.5 stamped on them. I'm guessing that they are 2.5 deg shims.

Are you in the service? What's your MOS?
img_0986.jpg

img_0989.jpg

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Unread 10-29-2013, 05:37 PM   #8
Savemycj
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I don't do any serious crawling in mine, my area is mostly leftovers from strip mines. But most of the time I get stuck is by getting high centered crawling out of a pit or going over a log, etc (I will say however that my suspension is stock and literally sits on the bumpstops) Any extra clearance I can find I will take. Will the shims and drop kit from your jeep fit on mine? I know the frames will be different and I thought the crossmember was a little different too, I may be wrong though. And yes sir, Im a Marine currently training in 6400 aviation electronics.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 06:15 PM   #9
Grumpy_one
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savemycj View Post
I don't do any serious crawling in mine, my area is mostly leftovers from strip mines. But most of the time I get stuck is by getting high centered crawling out of a pit or going over a log, etc (I will say however that my suspension is stock and literally sits on the bumpstops) Any extra clearance I can find I will take. Will the shims and drop kit from your jeep fit on mine? I know the frames will be different and I thought the crossmember was a little different too, I may be wrong though. And yes sir, Im a Marine currently training in 6400 aviation electronics.
I'm an A&P, 737's now, MD80 and 727 previously. I imagine you work on Harriers, Osprey and the like?

Tell you what soldier, lets find out if this stuff will work for you, and if it does, it's all yours. Gift from me.

Oh, and I'm a civilian, never served, but appreciate those who have and do. Don't call me sir.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 07:11 PM   #10
jeepdaddy2000
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Your cross member will be different than a 76 and later. You should be running two bolts on either side. Simply drop the cross member (it would be a really good time to inspect the transmission mount and t case torque strut anyway) and measure the spread. You can either use a stack of steel plates (common from the factory) or a piece of square tubing with sleeves for the bolt.
I would suggest that you install everything and check the angles before you get too excited about getting started.

Last edited by jeepdaddy2000; 10-29-2013 at 07:56 PM.. Reason: stupid spelling
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Unread 10-29-2013, 08:36 PM   #11
Savemycj
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That seems best, I'm just gonna put it all together and see how it works. If it has vibrations I'll whip up some quick lowering blocks with some scrap I have. Then save and plan for a DC shaft later. And Grumpy One, I greatly appreciate the offer but you might as well hang on to your parts if I can't make use of them. The shims might not work either because of the difference in the width of the springs in our jeeps. Thank you for your support
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Unread 10-29-2013, 10:13 PM   #12
Grumpy_one
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000 View Post
Your cross member will be different than a 76 and later. You should be running two bolts on either side. Simply drop the cross member (it would be a really good time to inspect the transmission mount and t case torque strut anyway) and measure the spread. You can either use a stack of steel plates (common from the factory) or a piece of square tubing with sleeves for the bolt.
I would suggest that you install everything and check the angles before you get too excited about getting started.
How can I tell if mine came with factory plates? I remember some stock before I added mine some 25 years ago. I figured it was the PO.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 10:19 PM   #13
Grumpy_one
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savemycj View Post
That seems best, I'm just gonna put it all together and see how it works. If it has vibrations I'll whip up some quick lowering blocks with some scrap I have. Then save and plan for a DC shaft later. And Grumpy One, I greatly appreciate the offer but you might as well hang on to your parts if I can't make use of them. The shims might not work either because of the difference in the width of the springs in our jeeps. Thank you for your support
Next time.
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Unread 10-30-2013, 05:13 AM   #14
jeepdaddy2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy_one View Post
How can I tell if mine came with factory plates? I remember some stock before I added mine some 25 years ago. I figured it was the PO.
If memory serves, 76 and later skid plates bolted directly to the frame. There may have been a spacing block such as you show from the factory for specific transmission applications, but to be honest, I simply can't remember.
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Unread 10-30-2013, 08:35 AM   #15
CSP
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I've only seen the stacked plates on CJs with the T18. That was done, not to lower the drivetrain, but that transmission is so tall that without them the floorpan would have had to be modified.
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cj5 lift , driveline vibes , driveshaft length

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