I was able to pull the thrust block out, without removing the differential. I installed the passenger side axle. My question is how tight should it be when you turn it by hand? i can turn it with one hand with some tension, but definitely not free spinning, is this correct?
After reading thru the forum again, it seems I have to much of the bearring protruding out, about 1/8", which is (.12). Now original when I removed the original axles (driver side) they was two shims. Could I use one on each a side to be within tolerance, instead of removing the spacer, tearing up the inner seal, and grinding the spacer down?
You already have to tear it apart to correct it...might as well do it right. If the shims are the right thickness I suppose you could use them but I'd still rather do it according to the mfg. instructions.
'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.
The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her. :-D
I just did mine and test fitted the bearing spacers before I put the seal in. Actually used the old axle dust cover as a tool to tap in the bearing housing. The first time I put it in, I marked both the spacer and the axle housing so I could put in back in the same each time I took measurements. Once I got it correct, then popped it back out with my slide hammer and installed the inner seal and then the spacer. That way you won't mess up anymore seals each time you take a measurement.