Installing Howell / 4.0 head swap w/summit cdi - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 44 Old 07-12-2013, 09:06 AM
james04si
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Good deal I think you will like the setup.I have a Howell and the 4.0 head. It was probably my post where I used the grade 8 bolts because the originals were too long. Going on 2 years now since installing them and no issues yet. You may need the tach filter from Howell with the cdi. Seems some get away without it and others need it. I think it has to do with the amount of noise on the tach wire that causes the problems. I would try without it and just buy one if you have starting issues or it runs like crap.

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post #17 of 44 Old 07-13-2013, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james04si View Post
Good deal I think you will like the setup.I have a Howell and the 4.0 head. It was probably my post where I used the grade 8 bolts because the originals were too long. Going on 2 years now since installing them and no issues yet. You may need the tach filter from Howell with the cdi. Seems some get away without it and others need it. I think it has to do with the amount of noise on the tach wire that causes the problems. I would try without it and just buy one if you have starting issues or it runs like crap.
I came pretty close to using the grade 8 bolts, I still have them on my work bench. Just wondering, did you use flat washers or lock washers on them? It's good to know that there still working well. I was talking with a old mechanic about using 8's and he said chevy used grade 5 on most of their small blocks early on, and the grade 8 would probably work ok.
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post #18 of 44 Old 07-13-2013, 02:25 AM Thread Starter
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I used the cork gasket that came with my fel-pro head gasket kit on the valve cover, applying gasket sealant on the side that makes contacts the valve cover itself, and I left the otherside with just a thin coating of motoroil before placing and tightening down. This way I can remove it and place it back on without to much mess if needed. I did buy a expensive fel-pro self sealing gasket just in case the cork gasket fails, but the cork gasket seems to be holding up very well. I also used thread sealant on the drivers side valve cover bolts, I had read that these are going into the water jacket and could leak.
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post #19 of 44 Old 07-13-2013, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
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I needed to make a few adjustments to my power steering brackets to make everything fit, the 4.0 head is slightly taller than the 4.2 head.
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post #20 of 44 Old 07-13-2013, 02:52 AM Thread Starter
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Since I have the head installed and my power steering pump back in place, I can now finish my exhaust. I bought a new cat and a 18mm bung for my howell tbi sensor. I tack welded all the parts together before the final weld just to make sure everything fit well. I used the front section of a 89 yj so it would match up to my new exhaust manifold and I used pieces of the rear section of my 4.2 exhaust. The two pieces bolts together with a gasket just after the transfer case skid plate, it works very well.. pretty solid with just enough give not to cause wear to the system.
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post #21 of 44 Old 07-13-2013, 03:14 AM Thread Starter
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I finally get to install my used Howell TBI on bought off ebay. On the Howell TBI adapter I used orange rtv on the top of the 4 adapter bolts only so there wouldn't be any air leaks per the howell instructions, I've read that on some of the tbi base gaskets they don't completely cover two of the forward adapter bolts, with the gasket or the tbi itself, and mine didn't. So while the rtv was still tacky, I cleaned up any excess rtv and made sure the adapter was spotless, I set the gasket and throttle body on an tightened things down. Since I wouldn't be starting the engine for a day or two, I new the rtv would have plenty of time to dry and hopefully no leaks would occur.
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post #22 of 44 Old 07-13-2013, 03:23 AM Thread Starter
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I've used the thermostat housing I got from the #7120 4.0 donor at the salvage yard and installed the TBI water temp sensor supplied with the kit. I did this rather than removing a plug and placing it on the stock 4.2 intake manifold.
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post #23 of 44 Old 07-13-2013, 08:37 AM
gosupes
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I wish I would have seen this thread when you started it. The centering washers from Clifford are overpriced. You can get a pack of 20 from Summit or Jegs for half the price, just look up Ford centering washers. Sell or give away the extra washers. I know we are not talking a lot of money, but that's money that could be put towards beer or band-aids, whatever you need more. I put them under every head bolt just for the heck of it. Still have a couple floating around the garage.

1986 CJ7, 4.2 w/4.0 head, TFI-HEI hybrid ignition, Clifford manifold w/Holley 390 w/cold air intake, OBA, 4.5" lift, Woody CV shaft and Tattons in front, 4.10 gears - lunchbox in front, Truetrac in the back, twin-sticked, blower upgrade for running topless, trying to keep it simple.

It's just a Jeep, and if you don't wheel it once in a while, it's not even that.
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post #24 of 44 Old 07-14-2013, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, that would have been nice. When I was ordering them online I was thinking that it was kind of a lot of money when they add on the shipping charges too. But, they were good quality parts and worked out perfectly. I don't mind helping out the smaller specialty shops.
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post #25 of 44 Old 07-16-2013, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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I'm able to remove the smog parts and get started on sorting out the wiring. I'll have to admit I was worried about cutting up the wiring, kinda like when you were a kid the first time you jumped off the cliffs at the local lake, thinking other people have done it, so I'm sure everything is going to be ok.
The Howell instructions were pretty detailed, but, not for my year of jeep. I did take the time to read them about 8 times, and also the countless other blogs on installing the Howell tbi and looked real close at the Haynes electrical portion of my book before starting to cut any wires. To sum it up, I read and looked at just about everything I could find about installing the Howell TBI and my year of jeep I could before I started. I also keep a note pad for taking notes handy. I took it in stages: First... I took all the wires out of the conduits. Second.. if it was attached to any type smog part it was removed. Third.. If it was attached to the starter solenoid, starter, distributor, alternator, transfer case, ignition coil, oil pressure sender or if I wasn't quite sure about it, I left it alone.
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post #26 of 44 Old 07-16-2013, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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Before long I was down to the basic wiring and everything became pretty clear to where it belongs. (I did take the two wire emission connector plug from the lower part of the oil pressure sending unit off, I left the top sending wire connected.)
I put everything into new wire conduit. All of the connections I made or wires I replaced, I soldered and put heat shrink wrap then taped up the ends with electrical cloth tape, I used zip ties to keep everything together.
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post #27 of 44 Old 07-17-2013, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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Next, I was ready to install the Howell ECM and wiring harness into the cab. I used a 2" hole saw in the fire wall so I could fit the connector thru. Since I bought my Howell tbi unit used, I didn't have a rubber grommet for the fire wall. I went down to the local salvage yard again and found a couple of early 80's Nissan sedans that had 2" rubber firewall grommets that were still in pretty good shape. I bought 2 of them just in case, for about $3.00. I had to cut the grommet on one side to get the 2" connector thru, it sealed up in the firewall pretty tight. I put Velcro between the bottom of the ECM and heater duct so I can easily remove it later if needed.
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post #28 of 44 Old 07-17-2013, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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I found my power source for the Howell ECM under the steering column, it is red wire with a white stripe, it had a connector on it. I used my auto electrical circuit tester to make sure it had current when the key is in both the crank and run position.
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post #29 of 44 Old 07-17-2013, 01:18 AM Thread Starter
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I then installed the electric fuel pump, fuel filter. I ran the high pressure (12-psi) fuel line and return line to rear of the tbi. (Be sure you get the high pressure input and the return fuel lines on the correct fittings. The input high pressure fuel fitting is on the drivers side and the return fuel fitting is on the passenger side). I then installed my service engine light in the dash. I finished up by running the actual emission vacuum lines.
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post #30 of 44 Old 07-17-2013, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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I decided to start my jeep and make sure everything was working before I installed my summit cdi ignition. I wanted to make sure I would know where a problem would be if it had one.
I turned the key and let the fuel pump run for a few seconds to make sure there was no air in the system. I checked the service engine light and it was on. I turned the key, it started up with in a few turns, it had a pretty high rough idle and the service engine light was staying on. But, it was running and everything in the engine and exhaust sounded good. After all the smoke cleared from oil that was on the exhaust from the build and I made sure there were no fuel leaks, I went back to the Howell installation book and tried to decipher the error code.
After reading for a bit I went to the internet for more information about this strange code and what it means. After calling everyone I knew and hours of searching I finally found a YouTube video on how to decipher these codes that a young lady had made in her 90's Chevy sedan and once again I was in business.
It seems there are two sets of blinking lights to the code then it repeats.. each blink of the light on the first part of the code counts as a 10, then there is a pause, the second set of blinking of the light counts as a 1 each. So... blink blink...pause...blink equals a 21, or blink pause blink blink equals a 12 and so on. I looked up the error codes for 90's gmc on the internet and there was the list.
It seems my tbi had a bad tps (throttle position sensor). It couldn't be that easy could it? I went down to AutoZone with my part in hand and with in minutes they had matched up a new one. I installed the part and she started right up with a perfect idle.
I took it for a drive and it has power.. a lot. It's has a nice sound to it, you can hear that it has power but it's kind of quiet, and it is pretty quick. I drove it up to the mountains over the weekend, it had plenty of power up the steep grades (never fell below 55 mph) and around town no problems at all and again I can say it has plenty of power.
Also, I passed my emissions after over a year of waiting to be legal.
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