input bearing replacement T-176

**BioTex** · 01-26-2009, 08:33 AM

It's that time of the swap to mate the new 304 to the T-176.
I have had noise from the tranny since I purchased the CJ, and I figured it was either the T.O. bearing or the input bearing. Since I have the old 258 out, I can now tell it is the input bearing responsible for the noise. I have several questions before I get on with ordering parts.

I don't want to remove the tranny unless necessary. I can change the bearing from the front correct? If so, will I need a gear puller?
I need the maindrive bearing and gasket only? Anything else?
I am replacing the T.O bearing, clutch and the pilot bushing. Do I order a pilot bushing that fits the 258 like the old one? I notice my Quadratec catalog doesn't list one for a 304. This makes me think the 258 bushing won't fit. When I test fit with the old bushing, it seems to be the right one, but not possitive.

Sorry for so many question, but this is new territory for me.

**243** · 01-26-2009, 09:21 AM

How do you know it's the input bearing?

Mine is noisy as all hell when idling in neutral and quiet when I push the clutch in.

I believe Autozone has a bearing puller but you may not have access to the store in Alpine.

**BioTex** · 01-26-2009, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 243

How do you know it's the input bearing?

Mine is noisy as all hell when idling in neutral and quiet when I push the clutch in.

I believe Autozone has a bearing puller but you may not have access to the store in Alpine.

Same simptoms mine had. Now that I have the engine out, I can rotate the shaft and hear the noise up close, and the side to side play is another thing. I found metal shaving also. Don't see where they could have come from except the bearing. I could be wrong, but will change it anyway.

yellow85cj · 01-26-2009, 10:15 AM

Unless you have one of the "special" pullers that the FSM shows for pulling the baring, it will be very difficult if not impossible.

And if you do get it off, move the input shaft too much and you might loose the roller bearings on the other end.

The WORST part of the T176/7 rebuild is removing the front and rear barings. Well there is a snap ring or 2 that is a pain. At least that's my experience.

And if you pull it, you can see if the output shaft splines are worn.

Doesn't that purdy red and black engine of yours deserve a nice shiny, clean T176?

5555555 · 01-26-2009, 10:49 AM

If you've got shavings, you'd better pull tranny and transfercase. You need to pop the top off of the tranny and see what you've got going on. It's not a big job.

Jim

**80cj** · 01-26-2009, 10:54 AM

I used an old Proto puller with extendible jaws to pull the front bearing. The jaws would just fit into the external snap ring groove.

Also, as mentioned, there is a heavy snap ring that needs to be removed. This Craftsman # 47386 snap ring plier from Sears will do the job.

I would do a complete teardown of the tranny while it's accessible. The input bearing may not be the only source of noise. There may be other worn parts that are noisy and need to be changed. It's an easy tranny to rebuild once you get the front and rear bearings removed. There are a number of us on the forum who have experience rebuilding T-176's so you always have free advice available

**John Strenk** · 01-26-2009, 11:02 AM

Yeah, just let us know when you begin so we can tell you what to watch out for. It is real simple once you get past the bearings. I got mine off without a puller but I'm rather ashamed of how I did it.

**80cj** · 01-26-2009, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yellow85cj

Unless you have one of the "special" pullers that the FSM shows for pulling the baring, it will be very difficult if not impossible.

And if you do get it off, move the input shaft too much and you might loose the roller bearings on the other end.

The WORST part of the T176/7 rebuild is removing the front and rear barings. Well there is a snap ring or 2 that is a pain. At least that's my experience.

And if you pull it, you can see if the output shaft splines are worn.

Doesn't that purdy red and black engine of yours deserve a nice shiny, clean T176?

Hey Yellow85, how did you get that tranny case so nice and shiny?

yellow85cj · 01-26-2009, 12:49 PM

When the case is empty and CLEAN (any grease just smears and takes longer to shine) a CLEAN fine wire wheel on the bench grinder and about a half hour. Did clear coat it after the pic so should stay clean for awhile and new crud will wipe off easier if I were to get motivated enough to wipe it off.

**BioTex** · 01-26-2009, 01:04 PM

Once again, you guys are the best!
I took the front bearing retainer off just now. Got past the two snap rings no problem. The ball bearings are all loose in there. looking at picture, there should be spacers that the ball bearings are kept equal distance from each other. Now I know where the metal came from. Guess that means I have no choice but to look into the case farther. That metal went somewhere!

I was only able to get the bearing out 1/4" or so then no more. So when I pull the transmission, do I bring the transfer case with it? I have so many jeep parts lying around as it is, I hate to dissasemble any more. I'm afraid I'' never get it back together.
All this madness started with "I'll just put on a new Weber". I already stripped and primered the firewall, removed fenders and wiring harness etc... Painted the frame. Nothing you guys haven't been through I'm sure.

T-176 here I come

yellow85cj · 01-26-2009, 01:23 PM

Depends on how much you can bench press an unbalanced load.

Trans is about 50 pounds, 300 is about 90 pounds. The skid is now the only thing holding it in.

Better to pull the 300 then the trans.

Definitely get some help or at least someone to call for help if it goes bad.

**80cj** · 01-26-2009, 01:26 PM

the transfer case has to come off so the best bet would be to just drop the skid plate. I think it's easier that way.

**BioTex** · 01-26-2009, 02:41 PM

Ok Guys,
You promised help. So please follow this thread cause I'm in over my head on this one. I put a floor jack under the crossmember and lowered the whole assy. It is now on a work bench. Felt like about 150# or so. I was wondering if I should take linkage off the 300, or remove it whole from the 176?

**80cj** · 01-26-2009, 04:09 PM

I would remove the tranny from the 300 by detaching the 5 bolts from the tranny side of the adapter. That would allow you access to the rear bearing.

**BioTex** · 01-26-2009, 05:25 PM

Here is the input bearing. Am just about finished pressure washing, then will open up the case.