Improve the shock towers - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 16 Old 03-10-2013, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
fcb212003
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Improve the shock towers

You might be able to see in this picture how the old shock towers on my 83 CJ7 rusted at the bottom. It does not surprise me that they did rust due to the design. The back of them leaves an open spot for anything to get in and stay. Almost like a bowl or cup.

I have newer mounts now (used but new to me) which are the same design. I want to see if any of you have any recommendations on how to full or plug the back of the towers. I was thinking of bondo or welding a plate over it. What are your thoughts?




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post #2 of 16 Old 03-10-2013, 08:02 AM
jeepwhore
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Bondo?....definitely not.

Either drill a drain hole in the bottom of the tower to let the junk out or weld a plate over the back side.

'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

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post #3 of 16 Old 03-10-2013, 10:24 AM
83vert
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to this

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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-did-happen-rebuild-1113470/
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post #4 of 16 Old 03-10-2013, 10:25 AM
83vert
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those mounts are off a ford truck not sure of years but just do a search and it will pop up

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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-did-happen-rebuild-1113470/
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post #5 of 16 Old 03-10-2013, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
fcb212003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83vert View Post
those mounts are off a ford truck not sure of years but just do a search and it will pop up
I looked into those ford f250 towers but wanted to try and keep the stock look. I was hoping there might be some type of liquid or caulk like material that would work to fill in the hole. Was hoping i could find someone who has done something like that.

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post #6 of 16 Old 03-10-2013, 12:22 PM
Always2L8
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Originally Posted by fcb212003 View Post
I looked into those ford f250 towers but wanted to try and keep the stock look. I was hoping there might be some type of liquid or caulk like material that would work to fill in the hole. Was hoping i could find someone who has done something like that.
Hate to say, but the only real permanent way to repair the holes is to either fill in with welds, and or weld in small plates. Mine were about the same shape as yours. I chose to fill in the various holes with welds, then ground the outside flush.

You may be able to JB Weld (Epoxy) in the holes by leaving the epoxy thicker on the inside and extending out about a 1/2" beyond the hole. Sand the outside flush to make it pretty. This after removing all rust (sand blasting recommended). Bondo/caulk probably not so good.

Also as mentioned - drill about a 3/8" diameter hole at the lowest point to allow water to drain. This should have been done from the factory.

Good Luck
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post #7 of 16 Old 03-10-2013, 01:33 PM
83vert
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I never looked into it but I guess nobody makes new stock replacements? Sounds like a mission for Crabtree tool and Die.

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post #8 of 16 Old 03-10-2013, 02:04 PM
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I drilled a hole in the bottom for water to run out

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post #9 of 16 Old 03-10-2013, 02:57 PM
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Water will find it's way eventually in there even if you plug it up. Instead of keeping stuff out, give it somewhere to go and just drill a hole. Stick the hose back there every once in a while and flush everything out.
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post #10 of 16 Old 03-10-2013, 07:35 PM
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I drilled a hole in the bottom for water to run out
X2


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post #11 of 16 Old 03-10-2013, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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X2
Thanks guys. Looks like drilling a hole is going to be the best route for me.

Keith, I see marks on those bolts. What did you torque those down to?

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post #12 of 16 Old 03-11-2013, 06:22 AM
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Keith, I see marks on those bolts. What did you torque those down to?
I don't remember what torque setting I used as it is not listed in the FSM.

I used stainless steel hardware that is fine thread so the torque value would be a little higher then standard thread pitch.

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post #13 of 16 Old 03-11-2013, 08:35 AM
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I drilled a 1/2" hole in mine when I painted my frame. Simple is better sometimes

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post #14 of 16 Old 03-11-2013, 09:07 AM
CSP
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Just an FYI for anyone who has these towers that are beyond repair, the fullsize Jeeps use the same shock tower. I'm seeing fewer and fewer FSJ's in the junkyards anymore, but they are still easier to find than CJs.
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post #15 of 16 Old 03-11-2013, 10:30 AM
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The ultimate in rust protection, holes drilled and hot dipped ganvanized....of course the frame is as well. Drain hole at each leaf spring main eye too as they are the frames low spots and will hold mud and water otherwise.


Ed
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