[JeepHammer]

Originally Posted by EtownCJ5

Not trying to hijack, but this is related. Anyone use this for their Team Rush? Reviews? Cost compared? They are selling the kits for $90.

Poorly executed version of my orignal upgrade.
'China' parts, just not worth the money...

For an AMC I-6 engine,

Distributor cap adapter,
BRASS TERMINAL Distributor Cap,
Premium Rotor,
From a '82 Ford F-150 Pick Up with 300 CID I-6 engine.

Plug wires from a 94 Jeep with 4.0L I-6 Engine.
They fit great!

Coil from a fuel injected Ford anything...
Best place to get one is from the salvage yard.
Coil, coil connector and coil bracket will all be about $5 and factory coils were very good quality.

If you just MUST have new,
Coil connector, NAPA, p/n ICC1, around $14.
Coil, MSD p/n 8227, around $49. from Summit.
Coil Bracket, make your own!
-------------------

V-8's have some different part numbers, but you get the idea!

[Fatman]

Originally Posted by JeepHammer

Ignition Resistor Wire and Alternator Resistor wire are two entirely different things...

Hey, NO **** !
I stated that in my post.

The confusion is in your statements above and your top diagram in the link I posted, show and / or state BOTH resistor wires running to the coil.

I just don't see it on any of the schematics in any of the manuals.

[JeepHammer]

Originally Posted by Fatman

Hey, NO **** !
I stated that in my post.

The confusion is in your statements above and your top diagram in the link I posted, show and / or state BOTH resistor wires running to the coil.

I just don't see it on any of the schematics in any of the manuals.

Calm down scooter!
I'm not confusing the subject, I can draw and build these harnesses from memory...

It's YOU GUYS that are confusing the parts and can't read the schematics & diagrams...
-----------------------

You aren't looking at the diagrams I posted very closely, because the all list/show the factory resistor wire.

If you have a Haynes manual, or a factory manual, you will find the resistor wire directly off the coil connector positive post, right behind 'Splice F', listed as "13B Red w/Trace (resistance 1.35 Ohm)"

If you don't have a factory or Haynes manual, here is the page...

[img]http://www.JunkYardGenius.com/ignition/jeep/IMAGES/Resistor01.gif[/quote]

Now we will zoom out a little more so you can keep up...



Do you need more...???
------------------------------

Now, here is a shot from the FSM,



--------------------------------

Now, would you like for me to show you the resistor wires for the alternator?...

I think I should because I don't want to 'CONFUSE' myself anymore...
And since they don't appear you *YOUR* factory schematics/diagrams, I'll try and help that problem out....



Here is another diagram of the charging system,



And the copy from the FSM,



I'm sure glad you cleared that up for me!
I don't know if I would have ever been able to read those schematics/diagrams with out your help!

[Fatman]

Originally Posted by JeepHammer

Now, would you like for me to show you the resistor wires for the alternator?...
I think I should because I don't want to 'CONFUSE' myself anymore...
And since they don't appear you *YOUR* factory schematics/diagrams, I'll try and help that problem out....

Here is another diagram of the charging system,

I'm sure glad you cleared that up for me!
I don't know if I would have ever been able to read those schematics/diagrams with out your help!

Why do you act like such a condescending prick all the time?
I didn't state you were confused, I'm confused by your differing diagrams.
Grow up, I'm sure you're not the *** hole you present yourself to be.

Expand out from those two diagrams and see that 78 does not run from the alternator to the COIL like your other diagram. (shown below)



genius? if that's what stirs your coffee, good for you!

[JeepHammer]

You are right, it doesn't connect DIRECTLY to the coil connector, or the ignition wire directly...

It goes back to the dash and connects to the IGNITION CIRCUIT there...

I show you a short cut, something that is easier and simpler, and uses better components (diode instead of resistor wire), and you throw it in my face...

Would you like to see that diagram also?
I mean since I couldn't find the resistor wires, and I obviously have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to this *Wiring* stuff/thingie....

Here, let me blow up that diagram for you so I can figure out where things connect...

[Fatman]

Originally Posted by JeepHammer

I show you a short cut, something that is easier and simpler, and uses better components (diode instead of resistor wire), and you throw it in my face...

If asking for an explanation so that I or others, might have a better understanding of what your posting constitutes "throw[ing] it in [your] face", then you have some serious issues.
Maybe you have a forum with a devout following over at junkyard genius, but here at JF when we don't understand a post it is usually ok to ask for some clarity with out Mr. Web Warrior thumping his chest.
Not everyone here is the self proclaimed genius, who preaches "I'm 'Aaron of TeamRush' that originally did this for the jeeping community..." trust me, the upgrade was NOT your idea!

Welcome to the blocked button, I'm tired of the attitude!

[Oily]

I had completed my Team Rush but did not report my results. I am very impressed. I live in the Texas Hill Country. I could barely keep 65 mph climbing the highway hills from highway speed. It would also ping trying to do so.
Night and day. It is so much better. I have power to spare. Many thanks to the forum and especially to you JeepHammer, , .
Unfortunately, I at the same time did a Nuttter Bypass, found out I was out of timing (slightly), and did not have previous gas mileage data. I do know my gas mileage will be much better. As soon as I fine tweak everything I will give a gas mileage report.

[BioTex]

Originally Posted by JeepHammer

(If you would have switched to an HEI distributor, you would have to pay for a new vacuum advance to do this. HEI's are not adjustable from the factory)

I installed an HEI, and it came with a small allen wrench, and the instructions said to insert it into the opening where the vac. hose hooks to adjust.
Is this to adjust the curve. I didn't bother with it. I figured it was factory preset, and I don't want to fix it if it ain't broke. I don't have the instructions in front of me, so I was just wondering. Maybe I got one that is adjustable. It is a CRT Performance model.

[Oily]

Originally Posted by BioTex

I installed an HEI, and it came with a small allen wrench, and the instructions said to insert it into the opening where the vac. hose hooks to adjust.
Is this to adjust the curve?

Actually, there is a slide open(up) door were you can access the electronic points. The allen wrench adjusts them externally instead of gaping old style points by removing the distributor cap. You adjust by a dwell meter.

[Oily]

Thinking about it, I am not sure that they are electronic points. My Chevy distributor has an allen wrench adjustment but it has regular points. By the way, they make a screw driver type allen wrench tool with a flexible shaft. Easier to work at angles.

[BioTex]

OK, I dug up the instructions.

Your new HEI comes with an "Adjustable VacuumAdvance" unit which can be adjusted by inserting a 2.5 mm allen wrench into the end of the vacuum canister and turning it. Each full turn is equal to 2 degrees of advance.

Ok so Is this the same as adjusting the curve that Hammer was referring to?

Please go easy on me...

Oily, I sent you a PM!

[Oily]

Originally Posted by BioTex

Ok so Is this the same as adjusting the curve that Hammer was referring to?
Oily, I sent you a PM!

I would not know. My method involves getting different tensioned springs, which I will be doing later. As you said, "don't fix it if it ain't broke", . Mine is running so much better. I will tweak it later.
Let me check that PM and I will reply.

[JeepHammer]

Originally Posted by BioTex

I installed an HEI, and it came with a small allen wrench, and the instructions said to insert it into the opening where the vac. hose hooks to adjust.
Is this to adjust the curve. I didn't bother with it. I figured it was factory preset, and I don't want to fix it if it ain't broke. I don't have the instructions in front of me, so I was just wondering. Maybe I got one that is adjustable. It is a CRT Performance model.

Yup!
You have an aftermarket adjustable vacuum advance.
The factory didn't use an adjustable vacuum advance.

If I remember correctly, if you turn the allen wrench clockwise, the advance will come in faster,
Counter-clockwise, the advance will come in slower and should help with 'Ping' at cruise speeds...
If you have that problem...

Originally Posted by BioTex

OK, I dug up the instructions.

Your new HEI comes with an "Adjustable VacuumAdvance" unit which can be adjusted by inserting a 2.5 mm allen wrench into the end of the vacuum canister and turning it. Each full turn is equal to 2 degrees of advance.

Ok so Is this the same as adjusting the curve that Hammer was referring to?

Nope, sounds like that is a limiter built into the vacuum advance rather than a rate control...
Most adjustable vacuum advances the allen screw preloads a spring, and you need more or less vacuum to overcome the spring, so it sets the rate, or when the advance comes in,
Not the amount of advance.

Sounds like the one you have sets the limiter, or amount of advance, not the timing of that advance...

--------------------------------------------

Originally Posted by Oily

Actually, there is a slide open(up) door were you can access the electronic points. The allen wrench adjusts them externally instead of gaping old style points by removing the distributor cap. You adjust by a dwell meter.

Not exactly...
The cap with the door on it is for breaker points adjustment.
Doesn't have anything to do with the advance curve.

[JeepHammer]

Originally Posted by Fatman

If asking for an explanation so that I or others, might have a better understanding of what your posting constitutes "throw[ing] it in [your] face", then you have some serious issues.
Maybe you have a forum with a devout following over at junkyard genius, but here at JF when we don't understand a post it is usually ok to ask for some clarity with out Mr. Web Warrior thumping his chest.
Not everyone here is the self proclaimed genius, who preaches "I'm 'Aaron of TeamRush' that originally did this for the jeeping community..." trust me, the upgrade was NOT your idea!

Welcome to the blocked button, I'm tired of the attitude!

Glad you got me straightened out!
Later!

[Mr-Rock]

Originally Posted by JeepHammer

Now that you have the vehicle starting and running much better, you may want to add a little more power...

That would be from adjusting the advance 'curve' (how fast and when the vacuum and centrifugal advance engage in relationship to the engine vacuum levels and RPM range).

By adding some advance at the right time you can gain some power in selected RPM ranges.
This would be from adjusting the spring pressures or weight of the weights for RPM changes,
And adjusting the mechanical limiters and/or spring pressure preload rates of the vacuum system.

All AMC/Motorcraft distributors have a spring preload pressure (vacuum advance rate) adjusters from the factory, so you lucked out there.

A small file or Dremel tool will allow you to change the amount of advance.

Hey jeephammer, can you explain how to do this?
I have done the nutter bypass and have just gone threw emissions and passed, but the HydroCarbons were at the limit (160) while CO was 1.88 (limit is 3.09) and NOX was 444 Limit is (4000) at about 2000RPM.
I'm hoping your TeamRush upgrade will help out with the HC? I order the parts and am picking the rest up today. Everything seems pretty straight forward except for adjusting the advance curve. I'm lost at that point, do have to get new springs or lessen the mass of the weights?

Any help you can give me is greatly appreciated!