Ignition Upgrade '78-'90 Jeep, TeamRush Upgrade... - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 54 Old 10-24-2012, 11:09 AM
MaddBones702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davethewaveman
Hi guys and Jeephammer...I've read and re-read the teamrush and this thread several times. I live outside the U.S. so getting the parts and accesories is very tough for me, but my 83 CJ7 258 hopefully will be with me for years to come, so I'm trying to do everything right.

I team-rushed with Bosch cables, the Ford cap, new rotor, imported di-electric grease and never-sieze. I am not mechanically intelligent, but I work with my local mechanic, using the forum and translating everything for him.

I had motorcraft plugs for the last 4 years, but recently one fouled and I decided it was finally time to install the new autolite plugs that were recommended in the teamrush thread. I gapped them at .044 and decided to finally install my E-Core coil bought from Summit. Jeep lost power and my mechanic was convinced that the bigger gap plus coil had been too much for the factory module, so we installed the summit cdi.

The Jeep starts like never before...and it idles great. But around what I guess is 2000-3000 rpm (the tach stopped working with the cdi box and it takes a while to import new stuff) starts misfiring. We've tried to adjust timing, move the timing advance vacuum hoses from the carb, remove them, etc. but we can't get the Jeep to run well. It doesn't have much power. My mechanic had the Jeep for the last couple days and told me the only thing he can figure out is that the distributor is failing. He says it's not in very good shape. It seems to be the original, now 30 years old. So here are my questions:

1. Should I get buy an new distributor, and if so, should I stick with a rebuilt cardone, factory, or invest in something like the summit model for $150? Seems like JH says factory. Is this it? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAZ-30-4691/?rtype=10

2. The harmonic balancer is worn out, in bad shape, doesn't show TDC. Should I get a new one, if so, which one do you recommend? Dorman? Omix? Crown? Should I buy the MSD timing tape kit for it, or does it come with that? Do I need to buy a harmonic balancer puller? Which do you recommend?

3. I'm going to buy and install the OEM tachometer. With the summit box that I have SUM-850610 (I took it apart and the guts have the MSD logo!) which tach adapter will I need?

4. Based on other stuff I've described, do you guys have any other recommendations? I really appreciate it, I know everyone is busy and responding to this is a time investment, but I really need help and hopefully your response will help others in the future!
jH recommends the factory dizzy

I used a crown harmonic balancer and you will need a puller

I have MSD ignition and couldn't get the tach to work so I went with auto meter


Who knew where this would go?
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post #32 of 54 Old 10-25-2012, 05:16 AM
Davethewaveman
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Should I bring some motorcraft spark plugs and try to go back to that? Could it be the Bosch cables that I bought a year and a half ago aren't heavy duty enough and I need to get the MSD cables cut to fit that JH mentions earlier in the thread??
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post #33 of 54 Old 10-25-2012, 07:28 PM
MaddBones702
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I would first make sure you have the plug wires on correctly to the dizzy. Wires shouldn't be causing that much havoc.

Who knew where this would go?
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post #34 of 54 Old 10-25-2012, 07:30 PM
MaddBones702
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You may also want to start a new thread to get more attention. May be the fact that the thread is a year old people don't pay attention.

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post #35 of 54 Old 10-26-2012, 03:30 AM
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Make sure the pickup wires between the distributor and CDI box are well clear of the spark plug wires.
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post #36 of 54 Old 01-05-2013, 10:10 PM
dharri770
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woohoo! Followed JeepHammer's direction to a T. What a difference! I was really struggling with cold starts...this was a huge change. Thanks for the detailed posts and pictures!
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post #37 of 54 Old 01-06-2013, 04:43 PM
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Dharri770 ...what plug wires did you end up going with? I am a little confused with what wires to use...Ford or Jeep (CJ or Cherokee)? Itnlooksnlikenthe CJ distributor cap uses different wires than the Ford but the lengths will be off as well.
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post #38 of 54 Old 01-06-2013, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kpkelly83
Dharri770 ...what plug wires did you end up going with? I am a little confused with what wires to use...Ford or Jeep (CJ or Cherokee)? Itnlooksnlikenthe CJ distributor cap uses different wires than the Ford but the lengths will be off as well.
I used Bosch premium wire set from autozone for a 1995 jeep wrangler 4.0L.
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post #39 of 54 Old 01-07-2013, 07:54 PM
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I used the red MSD wires from Summitt racing and the cap-a-dapt also from summit racing.
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post #40 of 54 Old 05-04-2013, 12:35 PM
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Great thread!!! I've just acquired all the components to do the Team Rush Upgrade on my 360. Currently the engine has a Mallory Unilite (non-vac) dizzy, I'm going back with the stock Motorcraft when I upgrade, also the PO has the ballast resistor wired in at the coil MSD Blaster (canister), will I need to ditch the BR or continue to use it?

TIA!
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post #41 of 54 Old 05-04-2013, 04:26 PM
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More in-depth research yielded yet another great post from jeephammer:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ms...istor-1303721/

Thanks JH!!!
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post #42 of 54 Old 05-04-2013, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BantamTJ View Post
Great thread!!! I've just acquired all the components to do the Team Rush Upgrade on my 360. Currently the engine has a Mallory Unilite (non-vac) dizzy, I'm going back with the stock Motorcraft when I upgrade, also the PO has the ballast resistor wired in at the coil MSD Blaster (canister), will I need to ditch the BR or continue to use it?

TIA!
Why? Going back to the stock distributor isn't an upgrade from a Unilite. You're going backwards.

I asked a ref if he could give me a technical foul for thinking bad things about him. He said, of course not. I said, well, I think you stink. And he gave me a technical. You can't trust em. -
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post #43 of 54 Old 05-04-2013, 07:54 PM
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Because its the recommendation from the Unilite that has only mech advance and I need vacuum to start with.

Last edited by BantamTJ; 05-04-2013 at 08:55 PM.
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post #44 of 54 Old 05-05-2013, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BantamTJ View Post
Because its the recommendation from the Unilite that has only mech advance and I need vacuum to start with.
I guess you might need vacuum if you have a basically stock motor. Not so much if you have a hot one in there.

An HEI would be a lot less trouble. It's an entire new ignition in one. Hook power to it, set the timing, and you're done. No muss, no fuss. The other way is a lot more work, and not really cheaper since you have to replace everything anyway.

I asked a ref if he could give me a technical foul for thinking bad things about him. He said, of course not. I said, well, I think you stink. And he gave me a technical. You can't trust em. -
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post #45 of 54 Old 05-05-2013, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Pacfanweb View Post
I guess you might need vacuum if you have a basically stock motor. Not so much if you have a hot one in there.
True, I DO need vacuum given the type of driving I do, and my engine is mostly stock with an RV cam.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacfanweb View Post
An HEI would be a lot less trouble. It's an entire new ignition in one. Hook power to it, set the timing, and you're done. No muss, no fuss. The other way is a lot more work, and not really cheaper since you have to replace everything anyway.
Not looking so much for a plug-n-play quick fix but rather an overall ignition upgrade. Read up on Team Rush 304-360 ignition upgrade and you'll see why I decided this route would be best for me.

Thanks
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