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Unread 11-21-2013, 02:44 PM   #16
CSP
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The original problem post is from 2010.

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Unread 11-21-2013, 03:14 PM   #17
semihemi
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yes I see that every thing that has been posted as replies to the original post is not relative to the original question, I was only reffering to the symptom as being exactly the same. The replacement coil from autozone and confirmed as the correct part by Wells Mfg. part#c819 comes with a note that states: If the coil is marked "USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR" it must not be used on cars that do not have a resistor in the ignition coil circuit.
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Unread 11-21-2013, 11:33 PM   #18
BagusJeep
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Perhaps a simple fix is to spend $5 on a 3.5 ohm extrenal ballast resistor and wire it in.

Coils are designed to run on 7V but can for short periods run on 13V, boosting spark. Downside is they then overheat and that spare energy can also affect the other ignition components.
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Unread 11-22-2013, 06:24 AM   #19
Hawk4097
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Just upgrade your ignition to an HEI and bypass all that mess. You wont regret it.
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Unread 11-22-2013, 07:19 AM   #20
FLynes
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semihemi,

Here's the original wiring diagram for our Prestolite system. Make sure that everything is wired up the same. According to the TSM, there is a ground wire that goes from the negative post on the battery to the dash; make sure that's there too. While you're at it, download the TSM from www.oljeep.com and save yourself a world of headache trying to figure this out on your own.....it has saved me numerous times.
prestolite-wiring-diagram.png

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Unread 11-22-2013, 08:35 AM   #21
semihemi
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FLynes, thanks for the info, the wiring on this jeep is all good and exactly like the diagram, I suspect that the problem is with the chineese aftermarket modules or after 38 years of this jeeps life with prestolite ignition it is over due to the earths pole shift (haha). My customer is coming over this morning so we can discuss the various conversions. I have beat this dead horse until it stinks.
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Unread 11-22-2013, 05:52 PM   #22
JeepHammer
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What we all seemed to miss the first time around was the OP had a PRESTOLITE ignition...

If this is a Prestolite ignition, and you have the issue the original poster did, you have either a bad ground at the module,
Or more likely, a bad 'Replacement' module...

Also, while you are at it, check the plastic vacuum advance canister on that distributor, if it's cracked or leaking, you are SCREWED!
No replacements that fit. Remanufactured distributor required...

In that case, I would go HEI... Not a 'Clone' HEI, but a Reman HEI from the parts store from '76 Chevy Blazer with 250 CID I-6 Engine.
You will have to acquire a drive gear, but it's worth the hunt to avoid the "$100" HEI clone issues...
The early V-8 Delco Breaker Points distributors have the same drive gear with the proper shaft size for the HEI shaft, so do aftermarket gears from MSD.

'76 Blazer used a Common HEI module, the distributor you are used to seeing,
BUT,
It used a REMOTE COIL, and a DISTRIBUTOR CAP WITH A COIL WIRE.
This stops a bunch of the HEI related issues, and you won't see the vehicle back with ignition issues.

The slower advance curve in the factory HEI won't bring the vehicle back with 'Pining' or 'Hesitation' complaints, and the guy won't hammer the pistons out of it if he tries to pull his house behind the little Jeep... (Since you never know what customers are going to do...)
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Unread 11-23-2013, 08:37 AM   #23
FLynes
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Aaron,

Sometimes you can get lucky and find one of those plastic vacuum canisters for the distributor on eBay; I was lucky enough to find one for mine when I rebuilt my distributor. It was very easy, compared to other distributors I've done.
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Unread 11-23-2013, 09:53 AM   #24
JeepHammer
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Hate those plastic SOBs!
E-bay would be a good source for odd parts, but try and find a 'Jeep' vacuum canister for a V-8 on it's own at the parts stores...
Frustrating at the least!

And about everytime I run into one that has cracked or the diaphragm is busted, the distributor has been in the engine so long it's corroded into place, which means REALLY TORQUING on it to get it out to work on...

The fact you see so many 'Don't Run' Jeeps with the Prestolite ignitions, and the Motorcraft ignitions are still plugging along when you find them, I don't think it's all just being 4 years older...
Prestolite problems are FRUSTRATING to diagnose since they use a full on 'Hall Effect' trigger, and that plastic vacuum advance is a pain,
And if you don't adjust a trigger replacement JUST SO, it won't run at all or run correctly...

I should have gutted more of the Prestolite modules down though the years than I did, but I was mostly trying to get my AMC Cars to run I didn't...
Low on knowledge and high on 'Racing' was my incentive to just yank them and replace with something reasonable, reliable and would work with an MSD module...

--------------

*IF*... It comes down to replacing the distributor, you will be money up in the long run to use an HEI on an I-6,
And a Jeep/Motorcraft on a V-8.

HEI does OK on an I-6 at lower RPM, but it breaks down at higher RPM and more cylinders on the V-8...
Just not enough time for the coil to saturate correctly.
Not saying it won't *Work*, just saying when you do analytical comparison, the the V-8 has more cylinders, which cuts down on saturation times, and V-8 guys tend to rev the engine higher, which cuts back on saturation times even more...
And there is the issue with blowing through the rotor with the HEI, more cylinders firing more often have a tendency to blow through the rotor more often.

It's hard to walk past the $100 price tag of an HEI clone... But you get so much more ignition for $150 with the Jeep/Motorcraft version of the upgrade...
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coil , coil terminal , connection , ignition , terminals

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