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Unread 03-12-2010, 02:54 PM   #46
CO64CJ5
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1964 CJ5 
 
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Well, it depends on the behavior you want. If you want to be able to crank the engine only when the ignition is energized, you'll want to tap into the IGN wire. If you want to be able to crank the engine without starting it, you can tap into an always-on power source.

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Unread 03-12-2010, 03:13 PM   #47
Mike Romain
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Umm remember that missing fuse link wire that should be on the battery side of the fender solenoid? Did you ever find it. There has to be two fuse links to run a CJ and your photo only shows one.... I think i would take a close look around.

I don't know if that is it, but your wiring may need it, or someone has hotwired half your system.

Yes you can use a pushbutton on that blue wire to start it.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 03:32 PM   #48
pwscj7
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Mike i did find the other wire, it is black and has the same boot type as the other 2 small wires. It does have dirt on the inside so it looks like it has not been used in a while. It is the same snake that has the other wires going to the silinoid. Where would it go?

Quote:
you'll want to tap into the IGN wire.
The IGN wire is the wire providing power to the ignition switch correct?
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Unread 03-12-2010, 05:23 PM   #49
CO64CJ5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwscj7 View Post
. . . The IGN wire is the wire providing power to the ignition switch correct?
No, it's the one that goes to the coil.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 05:45 PM   #50
83VACJ7
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Might sound silly but are the fuses good?
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Unread 03-12-2010, 08:34 PM   #51
pwscj7
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Quote:
OK, you know you have power at the switch, because it feeds power out on the ignition terminal. That means the problem is in the switch. Since you just replaced it, maybe you can take it back for exchange.
Is there any way to test the switch after I remove it? Can I provide power to the connector were the red wire connects then move the slider and see if I get power to the blue wire connector? I hate to put a push button start unless thats my only option. I did buy one tonight for 10$ just incase.

Quote:
No, it's the one that goes to the coil.
It looks like that would be the red white wire in my manual.

Quote:
Might sound silly but are the fuses good?
Yep checked the ignition fuse this morning. That would be the only one effecting the ignition correct. Of course since I am getting power to the gauges after I turn the key that kind of answers that question I think.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 08:36 PM   #52
pwscj7
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Quote:
Is there any way to test the switch after I remove it?
The ignition switch is what I am refering to.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 08:38 PM   #53
JessesJeep
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If you have a volt meter you could do a continuity test
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Unread 03-12-2010, 08:45 PM   #54
mthom5436
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Have you tested you're battery? I have the same (or similar) problem. After swapping ignition switches today I still had nothing. Not even headlights. So I put in a fresh battery. (straight off the charger) its reading was 11.6. I tried the key again, still nothing. I messed around with some things then about an hour later I decided to put the multimeter back on the battery. I got a reading of 4.4. What would drain a battery that quick? Are you having the same issue?
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Unread 03-12-2010, 08:47 PM   #55
pwscj7
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ok I do have a volt meter. Im not real familiar with the volt meter, so would I place the red prong of the volt meter on the power in then the black prong on the blue wire connector and move slider until I see power. Would I need to send power to the switch or would it give me the reading once the switch opened. This may sound confusing since I barley know what the hell i'm talking about. The volt meter has a 600 v- that has a lighting bolt beside it, I believe that sends power through.??
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Unread 03-12-2010, 08:51 PM   #56
pwscj7
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Quote:
What would drain a battery that quick? Are you having the same issue?
No I have been keeping the battery hooked up with no drain. Headlights and everything work fine. I cranked the motor today with the bypass and the battery turned the motor with no problem. I have no idea about the darin. Some of these other guys will I'm sure they seem to know what they are talking about.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 08:56 PM   #57
JessesJeep
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The setting for continuity will look like a sound wave, it dosent matter which way you hook up the leads for this test, it will beep if there is a conection, you can test it by touching the red and black lead together
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Unread 03-12-2010, 09:18 PM   #58
pwscj7
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ok I see now. on mine it is like a .)))) sort of
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Unread 03-12-2010, 09:20 PM   #59
JessesJeep
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That's the one
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Unread 03-12-2010, 09:34 PM   #60
John Strenk
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Just so you know what's what. Hre is a picture of the ignition switch:



If you want to see if it's getting voltages correctly USe the volt meter setting and ground the black lead and touch the red lead to the Wires on the switch. You should see voltage on the blue wire when in the start position.

If you take the switch out and you want to use the DMM as on ohm meter put one lead on the terminal were the Main feed wire is and the other lead were the blue wire terminal. It should show near 0 ohms and beep if the switch is is in the start position.
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