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Unread 03-11-2010, 04:44 PM   #31
pwscj7
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Switch: do you mean the ignition switch under the dash? I just replaced it. Do you know if the blue wire runs directly from the starter switch to the silinoid?

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Unread 03-11-2010, 04:55 PM   #32
JessesJeep
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Does it have a tilt steering column? On my old tilt column if it was all the way up it would not start until I moved it down, if not do as co64cj5 has said
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Unread 03-11-2010, 06:25 PM   #33
CO64CJ5
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OK, I'm not that familiar with these new-fangled CJ7's, so I had to scare up a wiring diagram. Here's the one I found: http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-...ng-diagram.gif

It looks like the blue wire leads through the bulkhead connector, then goes through a neutral safety switch. It looks like it stays blue from there to the ignition switch. If you can get to the back of the ignition switch to confirm that you get power on that terminal when you turn to the start position, that will narrow it down.

There was a thread recently about the neutral safety switch -- that might help.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 04:58 AM   #34
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwscj7 View Post
Switch: do you mean the ignition switch under the dash? I just replaced it. Do you know if the blue wire runs directly from the starter switch to the silinoid?
There you go. Yes the blue wire comes directly from the ignition switch.

If the ignition switch isn't adjusted properly, then the power won't get to the blue wire.

To adjust it, you need to turn the key switch all the way back, past lock if you have lock to ACC. You then set the switch. This should have it working right when the key switch goes the other way.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 06:09 AM   #35
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwscj7 View Post
Red/white wire on I terminal has power when the key is on, Does not matter what position.
Supposed to have power, it's hooked to the ignition, and when the ignition switch is on, the 'Red' wire will have power.

Quote:
No power to blue wire in any key position including starting.
There is your problem.

You aren't getting a 'Start' signal from the ignition switch,
OR,
Your wire is a broken connection somewhere between the ignition switch and your starter 'Solenoid'....


Quote:
Jumer wire to S terminal does turn engine
That means the 'Solenoid' is working, and it's grounded.
The problem is with the Blue 'Signal' wire from the ignition switch.

Quote:
Jumper wire from Negative on battery to the base of the solinoid does nothing.
Didn't tell you to do that one,
Since the small jumper to the 'S' terminal cranks the engine, that means the 'Solenoid' is getting ground and makes that test a moot issue.

Quote:
I swapped the wires to make sure they were correct and as soon as I touched the key the starter started and could not be controlled by key.
That's why I DO NOT tell people to do that test.
Ignition circuit WILL power up the 'Solenoid' and it's VERY HARD on the ignition resistor and module when you do that.

Better to do the jumper wire test and find the correct terminals than to reverse wires.

Quote:
Mike, I do have a black wire that is hanging that has the same boot type as the small wires. There is mud in the connector and does not look like it has been used in a while. Where would it connect if it should be there. I or S ??
Take it away Mike...
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Unread 03-12-2010, 07:28 AM   #36
Mike Romain
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Quote:
:
Mike, I do have a black wire that is hanging that has the same boot type as the small wires. There is mud in the connector and does not look like it has been used in a while. Where would it connect if it should be there. I or S ??
Take it away Mike...
LOL, gee thanks. There are a few extra wires in the engine harness and under the dash even for things that you don't have like AC and an automatic. That black plug could be the neutral safety switch ground wire for the automatic version of the fender solenoid unit. The dirt inside says it all, that is what I look for in unused plugs.
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89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 03-12-2010, 08:17 AM   #37
pwscj7
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I traced the blue wire back to this panel


In my manual it looks like it goes from the panel to the Neutral safety switch and then to the ignition switch. If the Neutral safety switch was bad would it still turn over by the key just not fire. I'll also try adjusting the ignition switch, when I changed it out I thought I had it all the way up but I did not have the key lock in the acc position. It's very tight on the side where the wires come out of the ignition switch so testing power from there may be difficult. I tested the wire at the panel on the dash and no power so it looks like it is something under the dash or the adjustment of the ignition switch.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 08:26 AM   #38
LT1CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwscj7 View Post
In my manual it looks like it goes from the panel to the Neutral safety switch and then to the ignition switch.
You don't have a Neutral safety switch.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 08:42 AM   #39
Mike Romain
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This is John's photo
ignitionswtwiring1a.jpg  
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 03-12-2010, 08:57 AM   #40
marmaduke
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Only autos have a neutral safety switch not manuals, the problem lies with that blue wire, it should have power running through it when the key is turned all the way to the start position.

Good luck
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Unread 03-12-2010, 10:40 AM   #41
CO64CJ5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marmaduke View Post
Only autos have a neutral safety switch not manuals, the problem lies with that blue wire, it should have power running through it when the key is turned all the way to the start position.

Good luck
I have no direct knowledge, but the diagrams I've seen indicate a connector for a NSS, with a jumper for manual trans. This would be a potential point of failure.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 11:54 AM   #42
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CO64CJ5 View Post
I have no direct knowledge, but the diagrams I've seen indicate a connector for a NSS, with a jumper for manual trans. This would be a potential point of failure.
The CJ's just use a different solenoid for this. The manual tranny one just grounds through a bolt to work, the auto tranny one has an independent ground post on it that goes to the NSS and gets grounded there.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 03-12-2010, 01:35 PM   #43
pwscj7
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OK Heres what I have found. The ignition switch is adjusted as far up as possible. The screw is sitting as far back in the slot as it can.
I was able to get a test light to the blue wire going into the igintion switch but when I turned the switch to crank. no juice. I placed the point down inside the connecter while hooked up to the ignition switch and also tested it about 5 inches away by poking a hole through the wire insullation. No power at either point. From the ignition switch I followed the blue wire up to a snake that leads back to the firewall just above the fuse panel. I did not see any connection in the areas where i could see the wire but it might be inside the snake. I also checked the ignition fuse and it is good and has power when key is turned to any position.

If I cannot find the source of the problem can I take the blue wire from the ignition switch and use a push button switch. I would just need to find a power supply that was turned on after the key was switched to start correct. If I understand you guys correctly the blue wire just sends enough power to the silinoid when the key is in crank position to allow power to flow through the starter. So if I used a push button switch the power would go to the silinoid when pressed and allow the starter to engage and when depressed would stop power going to silinoid so the starter would stop spinning.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 02:13 PM   #44
CO64CJ5
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OK, you know you have power at the switch, because it feeds power out on the ignition terminal. That means the problem is in the switch. Since you just replaced it, maybe you can take it back for exchange.

Yes, you can just run a wire from the ign wire to a button, then to the blue wire.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 02:42 PM   #45
pwscj7
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Does it have to be the ignition wire or any power source?
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