Ignition problems... Want to switch to a push button start... - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 12 Old 06-03-2011, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
viimag
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1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: california
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Ignition problems... Want to switch to a push button start...

Something is broken in my ignition system... One morning I came out to the jeep to find that I could not turn the key. I could turn it enough to unlock the wheel but nothing past that. I pulled the wheel and removed the key/lock tumbler and it worked fine. I jiggled some stuff around and put it back together and it worked. I drove it around all the next day fine, but when I went to start it up to go home... (It was midnight) it was stuck again. I jiggled and pushed and it broke loose again but now it will not supply voltage to the fuel pump. I am tired of this and want to replace it all with a push button or switch to start. What wires do I connect to the switch? I understand that this info is not good just out there on the internet as it is a great "How to steal a Jeep" item... So if anyone can help me, send me a PM and let me know how to be rid of this once and for all. Thx...

BTW... I have a Howell TBI system if it makes any difference

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post #2 of 12 Old 06-03-2011, 02:18 PM
Lordwrench
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u just need to replace the switch on ur column that the rod from the key cylinder actuates.
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post #3 of 12 Old 06-03-2011, 05:16 PM
cjrenegade
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my friend had the same problem but he could turn it to the battery on the key. how to fix this you get your self a good push button with a good amp rating you get about 20 feet of 10 gauge wire to work with. you find place put your push button. you cut the wire in half so you have two 10 feet strips of wire. you find your solenoid and you put one piece wire on the battery termial of the solenoid and the other piece of wire to the s termail of the solenoid. you wire the button up and you get a push button starter.
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post #4 of 12 Old 06-03-2011, 05:59 PM
hp_lovecraft
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Quote:
you find your solenoid and you put one piece wire on the battery termial of the solenoid and the other piece of wire to the s termail of the solenoid. you wire the button up and you get a push button starter.
Thats exactly what I did when my ignition switch failed. Since then I've fixed the switch... That was 2 years ago. I was originally going to remove the button, but you never know when it might come in handy again.....
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post #5 of 12 Old 06-03-2011, 06:04 PM
JeepHammer
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ANOTHER ONE!

It's probably the 'Rack & Pinion' in the steering column under the steering wheel and locking plate.
These give up quite commonly.

There is a little plastic gear on the end of the lock cylinder,
And it 'Pushes/Pulls' on a flat 'Rack' with gear teeth on it.
When the end breaks off that little cast aluminum rack for the tilt wheel,
Or the teeth start coming off that little plastic gear,
You wind up with what you describe.

Dorman/MotorMite products have the repair kit for around $10 and you will need a steering wheel puller and tool to get the lock plate off, but it's not hard to change the Rack & Pinion out, just time consuming.

-----------------------------------

Try putting your hand up under the dash, on the top of the steering column you will find a metal rod about 1/4" in diameter moving from the lock cylinder at the steering wheel, down to the actual ignition switch.

Try working the key while assisting that rod in it's movement...
If you can get that rod to move with the key switch and things work, you found your 'Issue'...
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post #6 of 12 Old 06-04-2011, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
viimag
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What I was thinking of doing was getting a 3 way toggle switch with momentary push on one end, that way I could have and off, accessory, and momentary start position. I would like to wire it up using the ignition wires under the dash but I am not sure what ones to use. Does this sound like a good solution?
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post #7 of 12 Old 06-04-2011, 07:28 PM
LT1CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viimag View Post
What I was thinking of doing was getting a 3 way toggle switch with momentary push on one end, that way I could have and off, accessory, and momentary start position. I would like to wire it up using the ignition wires under the dash but I am not sure what ones to use. Does this sound like a good solution?
Well, You would have to have all the needed circuits activated, and stay activated, during & after the momentary start position for everything to work.

I'd just fix the problem.
For safety, You wouldn't want the lock pin to engage the plate while your driving.
If it's the ignition switch, It less than $20 bucks and only takes 10-15 min. to change out.
If it's the rack/sector gear, They only cost $10 bucks, And about 30 min. to change out on the non tilt, and about 1 hour for tilt.
Times of course with proper tools.
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-03-2013, 03:05 PM
kielfortin
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Probably a little late to post this, but I will anyways. I was able to remove the lock and key cylinder contraption completely from my '85 CJ7. I ran the red power wire from the ignition switch to a lighted rocker switch (the idiot light, so I don't leave the damn thing on), which connected it to both the 10 gage ignition wires (2 red w/ white stripe wires) and the acc wire (yellow 10 gage). Also on the output of the rocker switch was a wire to a momentary push button switch, which outputted power to the blue wire from the ignition switch, which sends power to the starter solenoid. So to start the Jeep, you can turn on the rocker switch and then push the momentary to crank. The rocker switch also acts as the kill switch. Because I no longer need the key to run any power in the Jeep, I took apart the column and pulled the tumbler assembly out after turning it to the "acc" position to disengage the steering and shift locks. Now I no longer need a key to drive, and have not had problems with this set up as of yet. Granted if you don't live way out in the woods, you may want a battery isolator hidden somewhere to prevent theft, but otherwise you should be good to go!

"In the Jeeping world, if you're not doing it wrong, you're doing it wrong..."
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post #9 of 12 Old 10-11-2015, 04:43 PM
Brandley
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I am in a similar situation the key cylinder doesn't work and is brand new i can turn the key all the way to the on position and nothing. As an alternative I was thinking push button and remote start. Has anyone done this before? What are the procedures?
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post #10 of 12 Old 10-11-2015, 09:16 PM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandley View Post
I am in a similar situation the key cylinder doesn't work and is brand new i can turn the key all the way to the on position and nothing. As an alternative I was thinking push button and remote start. Has anyone done this before? What are the procedures?
Umm, read the thread maybe?
You have an ignition switch down on the bottom of the column connected to the key by rods too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
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post #11 of 12 Old 10-11-2015, 11:00 PM
BagusJeep
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Brandley,

Plenty of threads on steering columns and ignition locks and how the switch is operated.

The Saginaw style column is a PITA because it has a number of parts which work together to get the motir started. Even if they all work a PO could have cut the wires.

As it is a new cylinder, do you have the steering wheel pulled and the column stripped down to the turn indicator level?

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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
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1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
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post #12 of 12 Old 10-12-2015, 09:34 AM
RenoF250
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Here you go:
http://www.advancedkeys.com/Prod_AK105B.html

1985 CJ7 with 1994 4.6, Dana 44 4.10 TrueTracs
2001 TJ 4.0 Dana 44 4.10 TrueTracs
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