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Unread 02-22-2010, 08:57 PM   #1
yon
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1985 CJ7 
 
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Ignition Module # 4

I need some advice. I have a 85 cj 258 4 speed, stock engine, live in southern CA. My problem is the engine stops when it feels like it. I pull over and it usually starts right up. I know about the ignition module and am on my fourth one in about a year. The first three I bought were wiss and reading on your post they are not the best so I bought a motorcraft. Before I installed it I removed all the ground straps and cleand the connections, I taped onto the ground wire from the module and ran a ground to the body all grounds ohmed good to the battery. I Also replaced my coil with a msd coil along with rotor and dist cap. That was 2 weeks ago and the jeep was running great untill yesterday and it started to stall again. Now I'm lost is there somthing else that is wrong or do I have a jeep that eats modules. I know about the nutter bypass but woul like to try to find the problem and fix it. Any help would be great. Thanks, Yon

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Unread 02-22-2010, 09:38 PM   #2
illinicj
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There should be a resistor wire in the circuit that reduces the voltage at the module. When I unknowingly removed mine when fixing some frayed wiring, I started having the same issue. The long-term solution is to wire in a HEI module. They cost about $20 at the parts store and are easy to wire up. Mine has lasted about 5 or 6 years now.
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Unread 02-22-2010, 10:00 PM   #3
yon
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Where is this HEI module located. I have not removed any wires around the ignition module and is the module that I have need to be replaced?
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Unread 02-22-2010, 10:01 PM   #4
jds79cj
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I know there is different opinions on HEI ignitions on this board but your problem is why I didn't hesitate to upgradeto a HEI ignition in my jeep. You have one wire hooked to the distributor and that's it. I don't even know what module you have but none them are reliable unless you upgrade to something expensive like an MSD or comparable. The motorcraft ignition modules were the biggest pieces of crap if you stay with it carry two or three spare in you tool box.
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Unread 02-22-2010, 10:05 PM   #5
illinicj
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I'm not referring to a distributor swap. Just the ignition module. You take out the crappy stock module and wire in the GM module, with a heat sink. Search for "stealth HEI" or "HEI hybrid" and you'll find what I am talking about. A distributor swap would be more costly and would be a more drastic change to your motor, not to mention controversial on this board.
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Unread 02-22-2010, 10:31 PM   #6
jaymz72
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[QUOTE]The long-term solution is to wire in a HEI module./QUOTE]

Just curious, but does the HEI module eliminate the need for the resistance wire altogether?
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Unread 02-22-2010, 11:08 PM   #7
illinicj
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Yes. And it also has the added benefit of not frying when you leave the ignition on to listen to the radio. Killed a stock module that way too.
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Unread 02-23-2010, 04:22 AM   #8
John Strenk
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And if you put it inside the original ICM, those pesky inspectors might not even notice you changed the system.

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Unread 02-23-2010, 07:51 AM   #9
yon
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I am still wondering why after 15 years of no module problem now they start acting up. Is there a reason that would cause this?
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Unread 02-23-2010, 08:26 AM   #10
John Strenk
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Original ones were made with huge heat sinks and lasted for years with normal abuse. Replacement ones are cheaply made, have tiny heat sinks and just barely pass testing and will fail quickly in use.

I gave up. I would pull OEM units out of scrapped Ford trucks and cars to get good used ones. Finally went "stealth"
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Unread 02-23-2010, 09:50 PM   #11
yon
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Thanks for the help I will start making my stealth HEI. I do have a question it says to twist the orange and violet how far are they twisted and what purpose does it serve? After I install the HEI is there any other things that need to be done? As I understand it just plug it in and go, hope I got it right.
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Unread 02-23-2010, 09:55 PM   #12
illinicj
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Its plug and go. Twisting the wires prevents noise in the signal.
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Unread 02-24-2010, 04:39 AM   #13
John Strenk
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Yep Plug an Go.

The twisting prevent electronic interference (Noise) from false triggering the module from the spark firing or alternator or heater motor arcing.
It's like the way they twist wire in phone lines and network cables. Twist it as far as you can. A drill motor works good to do this or just do it by hand. The more the merrier.
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Unread 02-24-2010, 08:36 AM   #14
Mike Romain
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OK, so you are in California which means the HEI module is illegal to run.

So if you are going to run it like that, it will still have that pesky emissions computer in the loop. Tthat may be your failure point also, a leaky dash can take out the connections on the computer that sits behind the glove box.

You can change this with two hidden wires and still be able to pass the emissions sniffer on the ASM2525 dyno machine. What you have to do is to take those orange and purple wires we are talking about twisting and run them inside the loom 'directly' to the orange and purple wires at the distributor. The soldering connections can be done out of sight inside the loom. You then reset the timing to 8 BTDC.

The carb will have to be manually set for mix with the mix screws down front and the stepper motor's air bypass pins need to be manually set with their shoulder about 1/8" from the back wall. Basicaly that is doing the 'nutter' bypass. I have also snipped the connections to the stepper motor inside the loom out of sight so it all looks ok still.
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Unread 02-26-2010, 04:29 PM   #15
yon
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Well I built my module and pluged it in and nothing. It would crank but not start so I checked a little father and found that the female end of the 4 wire connector does not have a violet wire. So I guess I need to run one to the distributer, can I just tee tap into the wire and if so wont it also go to the main computer.
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