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Unread 08-23-2012, 11:09 AM   #1
capt205
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Idle issue (long)

New to me, 1983 CJ7 with the 258, and T5. I gutted the wireing and computer based on what I was reading here. I did the Nutter...cap, adaptor, rotor, wires, plugs gapped at 45, bypass, and coil...all new from NAPA. Even a new box on the fender, from NAPA. Ran good except for the old Carter. Even after setting the needles, just not right, bad idle, rich, vac leak ect. I redid the vaacum lines with new hose, PVC, breather, oil cap and grommets, PCV to carb t'd to canister, distributor to ported vac on carb, carb vac to cto t'd to egr and canister. Bowl vent to can, tank to can. Ran better.

Since then though, something happened to the setup. Now it sounds flat, like fouled plugs, except they are reading good and clean.

The only thing I did before the fouling type sound and flat performance is...I put new fuel hose on to replace the PO's rotted hose, corrected filter position, and removed the choke houseing and spring, then put it back on, it is not hooked up to power, and has not been since I got it.

Since then I also tightened up the exhaust / intake bolts (loose) and installed new bolts, nuts, and lockwashers on exhaust pipe flange (loose), set timing 8 degrees, idle is set at 680 with dist vac disconnected and plugged. Mixture got better after I lightly seated screws, backed out about 5 complete turns, and adjusted from there. Nice warm exhaust feel (read that here). Idles much better, but when I work the throttle, it stumbles, and sounds flat or fouled. When I take it around the block, it runs, doesn't stall at stop signs or when I let off the gas, but no pep like before it started sounding flat, almost like no advance. Im perplexed. I also experimented and plugged all vac ports except ported to dist, and pcv, taking out the connection to the cto, egr, and purge signal to canister. No change, still flat sounding.

BTW...I do have a new MC2150 inbound from the ebay guy out of CO, should be here any day now.

What do I check next?

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Unread 08-23-2012, 11:18 AM   #2
scrapman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt205 View Post

What do I check next?
Nothing. Wait until you install the MC2100. Then if you are still having problems, start at the distributor.
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Unread 09-14-2012, 11:49 AM   #3
capt205
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UPDATE...

New carb installed, idles very nicely, but still bogs when you give it gas and acts like it has fouled plugs. Adjusted idle, mixture, set timing.
Removed plugs, they look clean, verified gap @ .45, verified firing order, verified absence of vaacum leaks, tried a back up coil, still flat like fouled plugs. Re-installed Blaster coil.

Noticed...new carb does not appear to have any ported vaacum connection. There is a connection, connected to the choke pull off, 2 manifold vaacum ports, 1 larger manifold vaacum port for PCV, and what appears to be a bowl vent on top of the fuel bowl on front of carb. What source should I use for dist advance. Currently hooked up to manifold vaacum source.

I am getting frusterated....what to look at or check next?
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Unread 09-14-2012, 12:14 PM   #4
mastercraftka
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did you rebuild the 2150 before you put it in there? I put a 2100 on mine and it runs fine except when it gets hot and sits it is flooded when I go to restart it.
Whats size jets did you put in it?
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Unread 09-14-2012, 01:27 PM   #5
capt205
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It is a brand new carb, from the e-bay guy. Bolted right up, and idles just fine. Only issue is the off idle stumble / fouled plug type acceleration, that you can feel and hear.
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Unread 09-14-2012, 02:40 PM   #6
mastercraftka
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ok just asking because i bought one from him also but i put a carb kit on it.

Are you sure that the carb is your problem? Have you checked your timing?
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Unread 09-14-2012, 06:37 PM   #7
capt205
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OK...messed with it all day...new plugs, verify vaacum hoses, new coil...same results. Idles good, but still stumbles, and no acceleration. Short of replacing the distributor, I am at a loss.

I really want to get this solved, so I can move on with the project...I'm considering a DUI unit, and be done with it, but I just replaced all the parts doing the Team Rush mod, and Nutter mod, so I'd like to keep them, at least for now.

Thanks for any help.
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Unread 09-14-2012, 09:05 PM   #8
jeepnj79
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I've had similiar problems. I actually think I bought the carb from the same Ebay guy. My problems were always related to choke and bad fuel. I put on a clear fuel filter and could see the junk and water that was being pulled into the carb. The new ethanol fuels don't go well with my CJ. Probably because I don't drive it everyday. i use marine stabl in it for that reason now.
Also, is it manual or electric choke. I put a manual choke on mine and it is much better to control. It needed full choke on idle but then would need to be part choke on acceleration. I know this is not correct, but after playing with all the mixtures and idle speed. I got it to warm up with the choke on and then let it off when it was warm. I never had success with the electric choke on that carb.
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Unread 09-16-2012, 03:29 AM   #9
RWise
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Move the EGR to ported vacuum, (or just plug it off for the moment) with the EGR on manifold vacuum it will not idle smooth,,, this helped mine a lot!
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Unread 09-17-2012, 09:50 AM   #10
capt205
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OK...noticed that one of the plugs is wet with gas, appears not to be firing. Going to check for spark.
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Unread 09-17-2012, 11:52 AM   #11
scrapman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWise View Post
Move the EGR to ported vacuum, (or just plug it off for the moment) with the EGR on manifold vacuum it will not idle smooth,,, this helped mine a lot!
The EGR should never work at idle. If it is, there is something plumbed wrong, or you have a bad EGR.

Here is a great resource.

http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/egrvalve.htm
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Unread 09-17-2012, 12:07 PM   #12
swatson454
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By doing the nutter bypass, you've effectively removed all of your advance curve and are left with probably a 6* slot in the advance head. I have a feeling that may be what you're seeing.

Since you've already spent some money on the Duraspark, check out Matt's Advance Thread


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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:10 PM   #13
capt205
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Update...

I found that the dead cylinder was the #3 cylinder. After checking different possibilities, I took the valve cover off and found both of the push rods on #3 out from under the rockers. I also found the rod socket on the #1 exhaust rocker damaged, as well as the push rod. So I replaced the push rod and rocker on #1, and re-seated both #3 rods, tightened to specs, and replaced the valve cover with a new gasket as well.

Crossed my fingers and hit the key...it started and ran perfectly. Fine tuned the new MC2150, adjuster the timing, idle, and choke.

Now something new has occurred. While checking over my work, (jeep running) I noticed that the resistor wire was very hot...very hot. I know this is not normal. Could it be my coil, an MSD Blaster 2 model 8202. I just read some notes on the Summit site, and it says not for use in vehicles with resistor wire or ballast. Anyways, I shut it down, finished checking everything over, went to restart, and the solenoid just clicks away, but the starter does not turn over. I jumped it with my F350, no luck, solenoid just clicks.

Wire is not burned through. Can I replace with a non resistor wire and keep the coil?

Does it sound like my solenoid is bad?

Many thanks to those helping.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:16 PM   #14
swatson454
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Holy crap. Well, at least we were close


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