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XJ Rail Sale!The Ruffstuff NOT Universal 4 Link Kit!Vanco Big Brake Kit Promotion!

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Unread 09-15-2013, 04:57 PM   #46
Deeznutz73
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1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 167
Sorry guys about not updating the project. I've been busy with school and had to go out to Florida for a couple weeks so I'm falling behind on the upgrade. As of right now, I'm making my own plate. I tried ordering plates that should bolt up, but by doing so, it makes it a little wonky. There will be parts of the plate adapter that will potentially restrict flow. I just need to drill the tb mounting holes now and I should be back up and rolling with the TBI upgrade.

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Unread 10-18-2013, 08:25 PM   #47
Deeznutz73
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Well had a little bit of time this week and finally got the adapter plate done (mostly) needs a little bit of smoothing out still. It's not perfect but I don't think it's that bad. Now I can start putting things together. This was by far the hardest part of the upgrade but I recommend making it vs trying to buy one, unless you have the coin. I like it better than the advanced adapter and howell plate because they use a wide opening instead of the individual chambers. I don't know if that would change the draw or not.

Anyways, to do it (the easiest way), is to use a zip router with a straight cut bit. Go slow and follow your designs or gasket traces. Use the biggest drill bit you have to hog out the initial hole, then use the router to clean the rest and make the angle. Make sure you lightly press the bit against the metal so it shaves the aluinum off rather than letting it dig in. If you let it dig in, hold on because something is likely to go flying. I burned up my router, but it was old and on its last leg so I had to put the bit in the drill press and do small layers. Also, I used a Harbor Freight chop saw to cut the shape out. You'll need an f type drill bit for the tb holes and they are threaded 5/16-18. $6 at Home Depot for both (it's a kit). Another forum had user 243 using a 1/2" straight cut router bit to flat bottom the holes that will be used to bolt it to the manifold. Got one coming so I'll edit when I find out if it works. I got the 3/4"aluminum plate off ebay for $18 (6"x6")

EDIT: It worked perfectly!

The 1/2" router bit made the hole a touch over the size of the head of the bolt. I threw a smal bead of silicone around the head of the bolts, just in case.
img_20131018_171811_089.jpg  
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Unread 12-07-2013, 02:09 AM   #48
Deeznutz73
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After the adapter plate hassle, I did the Distributor. First, swap out the Chevy drive gear for a 5.7l like mentioned in the previous HEI upgrade post
img_20131111_135052_080.jpg   img_20131111_150952_693.jpg  
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Unread 12-07-2013, 02:14 AM   #49
Deeznutz73
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Next, the ignition module. You can do a 7 or 8 pin, it's up to you. The 7 pin fits in the dizzy, the 8 you'll need to relocate. I went with a 7. To do this, the pins are the same, only the 8th pin (B3 or black and red) is grounded to the ECM case.

I used the info at binderplanet, care of BILL USN-1
user1534_pic4296_1272824022.jpg

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Unread 12-07-2013, 02:17 AM   #50
Deeznutz73
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For the 7 pin, the pin letters match up, so using this image and the one above, you should be able to convert to the 7 pin.

Picture is from the 7 pin conversion for tbi upgrade on 67-72chevytrucks.com

IMPORTANT: This diagram may or may not work for you! What I thought was right based on the colors (Reluctor wires), was actually wrong!!! You will know when you go to set your base timing, you will instantly be about 20* off!!!
distributorwiring.gif

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Unread 12-07-2013, 02:21 AM   #51
Deeznutz73
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The seven pin plugs directly into the old 4 pin module place. Make sure to use Thermal paste on the back of the ignition module.
img_20131021_130358_392.jpg   img_20131031_180847_349.jpg   img_20131021_124828_331.jpg  
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Unread 12-07-2013, 02:27 AM   #52
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Then, remove the weights and springs, and vacuum advance. I drilled a hole and used a self tapping screw to secure the vacuum advance. Then I tack welded the mechanical advance in place.

Note: Do not screw vacuum advance to distributor yet!
1st: Crank engine to TDC. verify the actual piston by using a soft hose or something like it to make sure the #1 Piston is truly at TDC and your timing marker (between crank and fan pulley) TDC mark is lined up with the groove on the pulley.
2) Install distributor MAKING SURE THAT THE ROTOR TAB IS JUST PAST NUMBER ONE TERMINAL, I.E TRAILING EDGE OF ROTOR IS AT THE TRAILING EDGE OF THE POST, NOT THE POST TERMINAL.
3) Once rotor and number one terminal are in position, secure the distributor hold down clamp.
4) Line up reluctor points for correct phasing.
5) Now secure vacuum advance.

(This is one ghing that killed me (a little) later on).
img_20131111_134839_730.jpg   img_20130813_121343_020.jpg   img_20130813_122105_792.jpg   img_20130813_122129_919.jpg   img_20131111_134153_805.jpg  

img_20131111_134207_944.jpg  
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Unread 12-07-2013, 02:37 AM   #53
Deeznutz73
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I put a weather tight pack for the wires coming out of the dizzy for easy access, removal.

MAKE SURE YOU ARE FOLLOWING THE WIRING DIAGRAMS AND PINOUTS ON BINDERPLANET. CHECK, CHECK, DOUBLE CHECK, THEN SPLICE AND CRIMP!!!!
img_20131025_141046_711.jpg  
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Unread 12-07-2013, 02:53 AM   #54
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Once the dizzy is done, I installed and moved on to the fuel pump and lines. Using the fittings and lines from the donor, I ran the supply line (drivers side) to the hardline on the frame, then ran the return along side it, but using the soft hose. Also, don't forget to remove the mechanical fuel pump and installa block off plate. The Big Block chevy plates work, although you'll need new bolts. Using the coil holder from the old setup, I drilled two holes right in front of the rear bump stop in between the frame rails to hold the fuel pump in place. Fit like a glove! Also, everything is connected, but not finalized so I apologize for the mess.
img_20131203_104124_148.jpg   img_20131207_244601_535.jpg   img_20131207_244611_440.jpg   img_20131207_244629_554.jpg   img_20131207_244653_403.jpg  

img_20131207_244720_219.jpg  
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Unread 12-07-2013, 02:57 AM   #55
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I'm running the wires through a hole in the firewall, I don't know what it was for, but it's there. I'll also mount the ECM on the heater box once I get that back in.
img_20130713_211618_043.jpg   img_20130713_212740_826.jpg  
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Unread 12-07-2013, 03:09 AM   #56
Deeznutz73
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And that's it I think? Just pay attention to the wiring. As of tonight, I fired it up just to see if she would. It idles really high, but I think that is the IAC so tomorrow I'll get to troubleshooting it and cleaning everything up. Also, I'll keep a running tab of things that I remember gave me some trouble. As with all my posts, if you see something that could be done better, post it! That way people are getting the right info! (and I can fix my sh*t)

Notes:
1)According to the Binderplanet pinout, A6- pnk/blk- is switched 12v from the ignition relay. I couldn't really figure out this one. What I did was, on my 73 I had an orange wire that I deduced was for the ambient temp override switch. The orange wire I had made an extremely large loop and went back into itself. I did not find such a switch, so I tapped into that for my 12v switched.

2) The C9- ppl/wht- Starter crank signal wire says to go to the small terminal of the starter. The stock scout wire is white that goes there. Tells the ECM you are trying to start the engine. I put this on the same terminal as the starter. I would assume you could put this on the "S" terminal of the starter relay as well?

3) Since I'm using the factory temp gauge, I piped the gm temp sensor into the thermostat housing. You can put it in the side of the block as well.

4) If you want to do the "cool kid" braided hoses and fancy blue and red fittings, here's a link for the fitting sizes.....maybe one day, but this thread is for the poor kid.
http://home.windstream.net/mcfly/fuellines.html

16 mm x 1.50 thread to -6 AN hose end, with O-ring seal (same fitting for the fuel filter)

14 mm x 1.50 thread to -6 AN male end, with O-ring s

5) When setting timing, you should not have moved the distributor since you did the install at TDC. Disconnect the bypass wire and start your engine. Using timing light, check timing to see if you are 20* off. If so, the reluctor wires are swapped. Once that is ok, then ADUST your base timing to 0* by loosening the distributor hold down and CCW to advance, CW to retard timing to 0*. Lock distributor and shut off the engine. Re connect the bypass wire and clear codes by disconnecting negative wire for 10sec. Fire up engine then use the initial start up procedures at binder planet.

6) Took it for a drive and as soon as I was in gear, it wanted to fall flat on it's face and tried to backfire through the throttle body. Picked up a fuel pressure gauge and adapter ($30 pep boys) and adjusted the fuel pressure from 11 to 12.5'ish (gauge bounces a bit). Drives fine at idle, but not under load.....still investigating.
CAUSE: Several things!
A) Reluctor wires were swapped
B)Vacuum leak
C)Fuel pressure

7) During trouble shooting, I got ahold of Bill-Usn-1 who walked me through everything again. I started a thread over there under injection tech that is pretty much in crayon format, under Jeep 258 TBI Trouble. This will also walk you through the setup, but not sure how long it will be up.
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Unread 12-07-2013, 09:13 AM   #57
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5 
 
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Location: South West Indiana
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Book marked, looks like I can benefit from some of this stuff. THANKS FOR POSTING!
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Unread 12-07-2013, 10:52 AM   #58
Deeznutz73
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Diego, California
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No thank you hammer! When I saw you posted, I thought great, he's going to tear into me about something! I've read plenty of hammer postings to know to fear the wrath of the hammer! But thanks, I'm a big admirer of your posts, one of which is the contour fan and the alternator upgrades, which are coming right after I button up the tbi, so look forward to hearing from me!
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Unread 12-08-2013, 03:13 PM   #59
Deeznutz73
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So last night, I buttoned everything back up and made it all look pretty (loosely used). I went to fire it up this morning and she acted like she was 180 degrees off. I had to crank it over and keep the throttle open almost all the way to get it to fire, then it sounded like I was running on three cylinders. I reset the timing back to 0 degrees and at TDC like I had done previously, but no dice. I know I have a possible slight vacuum leak due to the gasket edges around the base of the throttle body being wet, but with these systems, from what I understand, a vacuum leak will create a high idle. Thought I'd post this while I let it sit for a bit and see if anyone has any ideas?

EDIT: After letting it set for a bit due to all the fuel it dumped in. I went out and unplugged everything. I then re did my timing again, making sure I was at TDC and the reluctor was lined up on the contacts. Made sure the rotor was just passed halfway on the number one plug, then re-installed everything. She fired right up but Idled high. I then re did the steps for setting up the IAC and my idle returned to normal. She purrs like a kitty now. I did notice that if I gave it a little throttle then held it (about 800-900 RPM's), it sputtered a bit then caught up. I'm assuming this is due to the tb to adapter plate vacuum leak which I hear can be common. I still have hook up my throttle cable and give her a road test, but I'll post when I'm done to see how it does. I know as of now, the throttle response is already 100 times better. If you "romp on it", then let it return to idle and hit it again, it doesn't sputter then catch up like it did with the carter. Figured I'd leave this up for troubleshooting in case anyone else runs into this. Don't forget it will idle high when you first start it up. It's called a "choke" and once upon a time, your jeep probably had one!
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Unread 12-08-2013, 06:33 PM   #60
Deeznutz73
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Here's how I did my throttle linkage. There are two types of throttle body shafts that have different adapters. One has a "C" shape to it where the cable wraps around it and another is like mine. Pay attention to this so that you can plan ahead on how you want to make yours work. This is how mine was.
img_20131208_151251_056.jpg  
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