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Unread 06-13-2013, 11:56 AM   #16
Deeznutz73
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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I ordered 4" YJ springs from Zone offroad and their bushing kit. $391 at Offroad Warehouse if you can pick them up there. Saved like $100 on shipping! I heard Zone is a sister company ,or whatever, of BDS so the springs should be the same quality, just $70 a spring.

So It'll be a while before I get started on this. This is the one place I decided to buy new parts and splurge. I have a lot of frame work to do, due to the PO $h!t welding the shock mounts back on after they broke off. Then I had a guy re-weld them back on as a temp fix until I got to this point.

Ideas at this time:
The previous mentioned U bolt flip or eliminator type deal above
Getting rid of the front cross member (easier to splice in square tubing for frame issues and at that point might as well for sinking the winch later on?)
Build my own extended brake lines with parts from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/. Looks cheaper than buying them outright.

Just to point out, I already have a 4" CJ lift, but according to RRO, I should gain .5"-.75" of lift by converting to a YJ spring. I also bought a set of 1" lift YJ shackles from Ground pounder Fab off ebay. The guy that makes them is a forum member and a Veteran, so nothing better than supporting a fellow Vet and buying American made bada$$ parts! I'm only going to gain 1"-2" at most from all this (including when I add 35's). I'm doing this for flex/ride quality, while keeping it spring under and keeping a low center of gravity (did I mention I scored a Meyers hardtop with doors in awesome condition for $50?)

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Unread 06-13-2013, 01:07 PM   #17
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Unread 06-21-2013, 07:09 PM   #18
Deeznutz73
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!!!!!!!!!!!!!!VERY IMPORTANT UPDATE FOR POWER STEERING UPGRADE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Issue:So I've been tooling around in the jeep for the last couple days and noticed a slight rattle coming from the newly installed power steering pulley on the crank pulley. There is a reason that I titled this thread the way I did. I thought maybe the three bolts were a bit too tight so I loosened them a couple turns. This seemed to relieve the problem until today. I started getting a loud rattle, but it appeared to come from the bellhousing area. It seemed to go away when I applied a very, very slight amount of pressure on the clutch pedal. Upon further inspection, I realized it was coming from the front pulley, but did go away when the slight pressure was applied to the clutch.

Problem: The bolts (or what I thought were the bolts) that came from the AMC donor were too long and were hitting the front bearing/seal!!!!!

Correction: Grab some 5/16-18 thread bolts, a half inch long, and some fat locking washers. This will alleviate the clearance issue.

I just hope that $3.50 problem just didn't create a $1500 one.............
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Unread 06-22-2013, 08:56 AM   #19
BuckeyeNative
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Appreciate the write-up. Look forward to following your progress.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 01:17 PM   #20
Deeznutz73
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JUNKYARD TBI UPGRADE
So after a few days of driving the heep around, I'm fed up with adjusting the timing/carburetor. It seems like when she's cold, she sputters to lie and runs really rough. After she warms up, you can smell gas and she'll crackle and pop when down shifting. I'll advance the timing and it'll run better but still smell like gas and "load up". I'll thin it out (I have the Carter 2bbl by the way, no choke hooked up) and then it'll want to die at stop lights and won't want to start. I've always been adjusting it back and forth since I've owned it, and I've gotten it close, but this weekend I just had enough of it. So here I start the GM TBI swap in hopes that the computer will take control and it'll run smoother. Another reason I'm doing this swap is for the dependability of fuel injection, not worrying about loading up while putting around, off camber situations, MPG, and TB are pretty much carburetors and don't get all crazy with an injector per cylinder etc, etc, etc.

So parts and cost:
4.3L Throttle body
4.3L ECM ( 1227747 or 1228746)
ECM plastic case (if you care about making it look factory or keeping it clean. It provides an excellent mounting case and provides extra protection) (Found in Astro vans, passenger side)(Leave ECM in case when purchasing to save a few denaro)
4.3L wiring harness from fuse block to ECM from donor car (pre 94 S10, gm van, blazer etc) (if you leave the sensors, plugs, relays, and anything else still connected, you can get away with being charged just for the wiring harness. I think for everything(ECM,TB,harness, sensors) I paid $70 from a pick and pull). (Don't get the GM air cleaner if you want to do a cold air intake. Refer to parts list for better option)
GM coolant temp sensor ($5 pick and pull)
O2 sensor ($5 pick and pull)
TB fuel lines from TB (off donor)
Map sensor
Throttle positioning sensor (TPS)
Throttle Body Plate (make for easiest option, 6"x 6" 3/4" aluminum off ebay, $18)
Electric fuel pump ($26 shipped, lifetime warranty off ebay. E2000 model)
Dorman 800-119 3/8 quick disconnect (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-800-119 $15 shipped)
7 or 8 pin ignition module (will update when I get mine) ( I used 7 )
Knock sensor (from donor, also optional)
Aldl plug
Clear fuel filter (glass/aluminum) $10 Pep boys
Generic fuel filter, metal $5 pep boys
10' 3/8" fuel line $20
Vacuum tube caps, $2.50 pep boys
I converted to all weather pack connectors, $30 off ebay
Save coil holder from old ignition coil, used to hold fuel pump!!!!

Cadillac air cleaner/plenum thingy off late 90's vehicle (pic to come)

!!!!!!!!Again, Try and get as much off the donor as possible, leave everything connected and if you can, connect parts from other donor cars, and go on a half off day and you'll be able to get everything for super cheap!!!!!!!!!

Website guide list for part info, wiring diagrams, and additional options (depending on distributor configuration and personal preferences. This write up will be on the rout I'm going and what I've previously discussed in the thread).
http://www.jeep-cj.com/bustedjeep/pr...nkyardtbi.html
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=47254


This is all I could remember for now. I will update anything I forget as I go. I am also going to do the GM throttle body mod which will allow the TB to breath better. Since I'm waiting on some parts I didn't get out of the pick and pull, I'll be doing this first; Idle hands and all..........
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Unread 06-25-2013, 09:50 AM   #21
Deeznutz73
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Well I finished the Throttle body mod, but I can't seem to upload any pics, just keeps saying upload failed.

I also ordered my fuel pump and disconnects.

Awhile ago, I started the wiring harness tear down. I need to get a new ECM plug since I messed up mine trying to disconnect the wires so I can untangle the mess. My recommendation to you is make an excel file with the pin number and brief description, then tape each label to the wire so you know whats what. I used this for the wiring ID
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=45293
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Unread 06-25-2013, 04:30 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deeznutz73
Well I finished the Throttle body mod, but I can't seem to upload any pics, just keeps saying upload failed.

I also ordered my fuel pump and disconnects.

Awhile ago, I started the wiring harness tear down. I need to get a new ECM plug since I messed up mine trying to disconnect the wires so I can untangle the mess. My recommendation to you is make an excel file with the pin number and brief description, then tape each label to the wire so you know whats what. I used this for the wiring ID
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=45293
I love your thread! And I have most of the parts you listed above sitting in my garage, so I can't wait to read your write-up on this particular mod. Keep up the good work.
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Unread 06-25-2013, 10:03 PM   #23
Deeznutz73
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Well if I was you, I'd avoid the throttle shaft part of the mod. It seems GM barbed the ends of the screws holding the butterfly valves and as a result, I broke off the screws. I either now have to replace it or re drill them. You may get away with either leaving it on and doing it or, from what I've read, grind down the screws from the barbed end and you might be able to unscrew them after that.
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Unread 06-26-2013, 05:36 PM   #24
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Went to the junkyard and got a new throttle shaft for the throttle body. I used a file to file down the screws on the underside of the butterflies and low and behold the screws came out. If you are going to remove the shaft, grind them down!

I also picked up new plugs for the ECM, since I messed the one I had up. Probably won't have any time till this weekend to work on it, but hopefully I'll have the wiring harness done, and the throttle body rebuilt.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 01:43 PM   #25
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I just put the RRO yj spring conversion kit on my 73 cj5. if you have any question let me know. you need to make sure they give you the right frame spacers for the front (back) mounts. they didn't for me and I had to have them send them. additionally you may need to do some shimming to fill the gaps between the frame and their brackets. not that big a deal but for the money I thought they could of done a better job on fab. there were a few other things that really irritated me as well. again for the money they could do better. but once on it looks good and is a stout setup.

do you or can you get some pics on how/where to run the ebrake cables on your cj for me? brought my cj totally in parts and trying to put it back together.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 02:14 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chatham View Post
I just put the RRO yj spring conversion kit on my 73 cj5. if you have any question let me know. you need to make sure they give you the right frame spacers for the front (back) mounts. they didn't for me and I had to have them send them. additionally you may need to do some shimming to fill the gaps between the frame and their brackets. not that big a deal but for the money I thought they could of done a better job on fab. there were a few other things that really irritated me as well. again for the money they could do better. but once on it looks good and is a stout setup.

do you or can you get some pics on how/where to run the ebrake cables on your cj for me? brought my cj totally in parts and trying to put it back together.
Do you have any photos? I am also interested in buying the RRO yj spring conversion kit for my 73 cj5.
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My Jeep isn't getting older, it's getting newer part by part

2011 WK2 HEMI 4x4 Overland
2007 WK CRD 4x4 Limited GDE Tuned
1998 TJ SE
1973 CJ5 - YJ OME 2.5" lift, 33" tires
1951 Willys truck
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Unread 07-04-2013, 10:13 AM   #27
Deeznutz73
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Chatham: I don't recall seeing anything about "frame spacers" in the directions or the parts description so that kinda sucks, potentially. I got with the kit ($500 to the door for the kit minus skidplates). I agree about the cost versus the kit, even though I haven't started on it yet. I didn't expect when they said "bolt on", I would be cutting and re-using the spring/shackle hangers, which is what put a hold on that part of the project since the PO slagged the shackle hanger mounts and that's where all the frame damage is. He also put rocker guards on it with a nice 4"x 4" plate welde right over the spring hanger so I can't mount the new YJ spring hangers. Also, it took the guy about 20 minutes on the phone to figure out how to drop the U Bolt skid plates from the kit, only to find out he was ordering me the spring SOA kit........

I'll crawl under the Jeep tonight and snap some photo's if I can. Although, I have no idea if it's right or not.

How much lift, if any, did you gain by swapping the YJ springs in?

r unda: If you're asking me, I'll break out the kit and take photo's of the parts if you want? I can also scan the directions and parts list into a pdf or image or whatever works best to post up on here if you'd like? Let me know.
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Unread 07-04-2013, 10:57 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deeznutz73 View Post
Well if I was you, I'd avoid the throttle shaft part of the mod. It seems GM barbed the ends of the screws holding the butterfly valves and as a result, I broke off the screws. I either now have to replace it or re drill them. You may get away with either leaving it on and doing it or, from what I've read, grind down the screws from the barbed end and you might be able to unscrew them after that.
I don't remember reading about replacing the butterfly valves, but I still have a lot of reading to do. Looking forward to your pictures.
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Unread 07-04-2013, 12:20 PM   #29
Deeznutz73
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You don't replace the butterfly valves, you grind the throttle shaft down. Apparently the shaft takes up about 20% of the throttle bore. By grinding this down, you'll allow more air in. I started to do that and ran into the problem mentioned above. I decided to hold off on it for now. Careful on how much you change things. I've heard some mixed reviews on the quarter mod for the fuel pressure and the spacer mod. After I get everything set up so I can record data and burn my own chips, I may dabble with the others. This is what I've done so far:

I started with the stock throttle body. You'll need to remove the edges around the throttle bores (red arrows)
img_20130624_153112_235.jpg   img_20130624_155042_928.jpg  
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Unread 07-04-2013, 12:22 PM   #30
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I found that making notches in the raised edges, made it easier to keep track of the original deck height and make for faster, more even cutting.

EDIT: After I realized ho much of a pain in the *** removing the throttle blade shaft and dealing with the screw issue, I said F it and went to the junkyard and bought another throttle body and did the same mod. I just took a grinder to it and got it close to even with the surface, then smoothed it out with the dremel. I don't know why I didn't do that before.........
img_20130624_161501_317.jpg   img_20130624_172736_282.jpg  
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