Ideas on E-brake setup Maxima rear disc upgrade - JeepForum.com
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Unread 02-04-2015, 07:10 PM   #1
Dborns
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Ideas on E-brake setup Maxima rear disc upgrade

While I'm waiting on the parts to button up my AMC 20, I'd like to start working on something for the emergency brake lines. When I got the brackets, I also got two of these pieces that were supposed to be for the Ebrake setup, but I can't tell how they are supposed to be used, or even if they can be utilized with my setup.
Pic#1 is the 4" rectangle bracket with a 5/8" hole on one end, and a 5/16" hole on the other.
Pic #2: Is a drawing of the original maxima setup. The blue is the big line coming in and held in place with a sliding lock washer, and the red is the hook that the end of the cable connects to with a rectangle washer end
Pic#3: Is the red end that the rectangle washer on the end of the cable is supposed to connect to
Pic#4: Blue end that the end of the outer sheath slides into
Pic#5: How the cable should be routed in the caliper, and you can see how the cable is way to long
Pic#6:Pic of where the end of the cable needs to connect to the caliper

ebrake1.jpg

ebrakepic.gif

ebrake2.jpg

ebrake3.jpg

ebrake5.jpg

ebrake7.jpg

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Unread 02-04-2015, 07:11 PM   #2
Dborns
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I'm looking for suggestions from anyone else thats done the Nissan maxima disc brake upgrade and how they got their Ebrake lines to work.
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Unread 02-04-2015, 08:29 PM   #3
CJ7ROB
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You need more of a bend on that piece. You can see it here. The cable isn't thru it yet. You need to shorten those cable springs. I am having a tough time getting the E-brake to hold.

Here are the brackets


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Unread 02-04-2015, 08:52 PM   #4
Dborns
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Do you happen to have any pics of the bracket from another angle? Specifically what the other end with the smaller hole is bolted to? I see now that I would use that bracket and lock the large end of the brake cable into it and run the spring end up to the caliper arm I have circled in red in the pics. That still wouldn't solve how to connect that small end to the caliper arm in this pic.
ebrake7.jpg

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Unread 02-04-2015, 08:53 PM   #5
Dborns
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Also, have you put miles on those rotors yet, or did you have them turned down? They have a different sheen than the rotor top cap, and I've read that the tracker rotors are just a little to thick for the maxima calipers pad to pad width. I think the specs I've seen show its like a mm to thick to fit in between the pads.
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Unread 02-04-2015, 09:03 PM   #6
CJ7ROB
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Look to the left of the bridge boot in the pic I posted above. Do you see the bolt sticking thru? That bolt goes thru the small hole in the bracket.

I bought all the parts new. They are 300z calipers and rubber hoses. I painted the rotor centers black so they don't rust. There are a few threads on this swap. It hasn't paid off for me yet. I can't even get my rear brakes to lock up on gravel. So I still need to figure out if/how this swap is going to work.

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Unread 02-04-2015, 10:02 PM   #7
foggybottombob
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I took a 1/2" pipe nipple and welded a washer on the end of it. The metal on the end of the sheath of the ebrake cable fit into the pipe nipple and the washer stopped it from coming through that u shaped slot in the picture with the purple circle around it. That worked for me for several years before I sold that setup to another guy.
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Unread 02-06-2015, 05:21 PM   #8
Dborns
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I ran into a frustrating issue today on this upgrade. I'm in the process of getting my rear axles in and the hubs back on, so I put the tires on today so I could lower it to tighten the axle nuts. The tire went on c***eyed, and wouldn't sit flush. I also found that the wheel wouldn't spin at all. The calipers had contacted the inside of the rim and when I tightened the tire down, they locked it in place so it won't spin. I took them off but snapped a couple pics before I did, and saw that the caliper piston and where the pads will touch the rotor, there isn't much contact there. Its way to high, and will only compress on the outer rim of the rotor.
I got the correct calipers and rotors to do the Nissan maxima upgade. Has anyone else thats done the nissan upgrade run into this same issue?
brake1.jpg

brake2.jpg

brake3.jpg

brake4.jpg

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Unread 02-06-2015, 09:54 PM   #9
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Either you have the wrong brackets or you installed them improperly. You're correct, the calipers should sit lower which would stop them from hitting the wheels.
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Unread 02-07-2015, 07:34 AM   #10
Dborns
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I'm going to work on this a little today and see what I can do with them. I'm wondering if the 300z calipers are smaller and would fit instead of these maxima ones. I did look for any 300z's when I went to get the calipers I have and they aren't real prevalent at any of the local pick and pulls. If the brackets don't taper too much, I can maybe drill some new holes a little lower, bringing the calipers down some.

I still have about 1/4" that the wheel needs to be pulled in as I'm setting the hubs, but I don't think getting those set all the way is going to help, and may in fact make it worse since I believe the rims are tapered in that area.
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Unread 02-07-2015, 07:52 AM   #11
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I found this info when I did a google search; its from this site in a thread from awhile ago. I remember I had seen it along time ago, but forgot that he had an issue with hole placement. You can see in the pic where the original bolt holes are and how he drilled new ones below those.

Quote:
I HAVE SEEN POST OF PADS KICKING OUT AFTER SOME AMOUNT OF WEAR. WHAT I FOUND IS THE CALIPER MOUNTING HOLES NEED TO BE REDRILLED LOWER ABOUT 7/16" TO CENTER THE PAD TO THE ROTOR. IF NOT YOU WILL NOT HAVE FULL STOPPING FORCE OF BRAKES. ALSO THE UNEVEN WEAR COULD CAUSE THE PADS TO TILT AND KICK THEMSELVES OUT WITH TIME.
brake5.jpg

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Unread 02-07-2015, 01:56 PM   #12
Dborns
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I got the passenger side brake bracket fixed today. I kept the rotor on and held the caliper bracket down as low as it would go without getting into the rotor and marked new holes. Drilled them and installed everything, and it clearances the rim. The holes had to me moved down about 1/2" on the bracket. The rotor is grinding a little bit on some part of the caliper when I turn the tire, but I can try to figure that out and maybe take a little metal off whatevers in the way. The rotor itself has to be turned down 1mm just to fit the maxima caliper anyway, so that'll probably fix the problem. Also moving the caliper farther down has caused even more of an issue with the E brake bracket. Its almost sitting on top of the axle, so I'll have to use those rectangle pieces that came with my brackets and try to make something work. I really want a E brake just because of the steepness of my driveway, and with kids, I always worry the stick's going to get kicked out of gear.
This thing is on all four tires for the first time in never....
brake6.jpg

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