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Unread 06-15-2011, 06:46 PM   #76
CrescentMoon
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1978 CJ5 
 
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Location: Elgin, SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz

You mean something like this?
Nice! It seems that people can't really agree, though. I guess I have more to think about now....

Anyway- I really like all the pics! That definitely makes it clear!

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Unread 06-16-2011, 07:03 AM   #77
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
You mean something like this?
COIZ, YOU ARE THE MAN!

You even show the file!
If you don't have a file and an inside the tubing reamer to remove burrs, don't bother starting!
Nothing like a burr getting turned and screwing up an otherwise perfectly serviceable flair!

The best advice I can give you...
Unless you are using an $800+ hydraulic rig with heavy self centering 'Taper' turner, (Large 'Jig' holder to keep things in place)

Then don't GORILLA the flair when it's inverting!
You are only there to turn that flair mouth IN and smooth the tubing down,
Not flatten out/expand the flair until it won't fit in the female part of the fitting,

Or to mash out/crack the tubing!

You have to turn the taper in, but leave a little bit if 'Give' in it so it can conform & seal to the female side of the fitting, and it does that by distorting slightly...
If you mash it's guts out, it's work hardened, and won't deform to seal with the steel fittings in some cases, and others it will be mashed out so large it won't even fit into the fittings...

I've not had any problems with those $30 to $50 hand sets like the one you show.
I've done MANY vehicles from farm tractors to race cars with them, and not had any problems that weren't my fault,
(With the exception of 'China' tubing that was an odd outside size and WOULD NOT lock up in the clamp block! MADDENING! )

I still carry my little kit like that in my 'Field Work' tools.
Took it to the 'Jeep Clinic' and showed a couple of forum users how to flair their own lines, and they did their ENTIRE VEHICLE with it!
(I'm sure it was hard on the hands with all those fittings/flairs, but it did the job over time, and did it well for about $40 or so!)

Works FINE for two or three fittings when you don't have a shop full of tools to work with.
No issues what so ever with them, no matter what anyone else says!
Great for the 'Home' shop that doesn't want to pay $800+ for a hydraulic flaring set.

The biggest problem with stainless steel lines is they are HARD TO FORM!
You will break your hands and ruin a LOT of expensive tubing trying to do very many stainless lines with a little kit like that!

When we went to all Stainless Steel lines at work, it didn't take me long to buy a $1,200 kit that had HYDRAULICS!
Saved my old man hands and REALLY made stainless work a snap!

BTW Coiz, you make VERY good looking flairs!
I don't think mine ever looked that good with the little hand kits you show!
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Unread 06-22-2011, 08:33 PM   #78
CrescentMoon
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Well, the new SS brake lines should be here Friday! While I was ordering, I also ordered cowl rubber strip, a new radio antenna (kit), & placed a claim with USAA for a new windshield & weather strip. (all glass is free in SC if you have full coverage) Its going to be a busy weekend but, I'm off all day Monday! So- Monday will be the day to tackle the Jeep!!!

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Unread 06-26-2011, 12:37 PM   #79
CrescentMoon
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Still no fluid to the rear brakes!!!! I just don't get it.... Now, I'm looking for a real mechanic!

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Unread 06-26-2011, 12:44 PM   #80
CrescentMoon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrescentMoon
Still no fluid to the rear brakes!!!! I just don't get it.... Now, I'm looking for a real mechanic!

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Update: All brake lines have been replaced with SS Lines, new SSBC adjustable PV installed, new SSBC MC installed (& bench bled), front brakes bled fine but no fluid to the rear before or after the front....

New radio antenna wire connected! New rubber cowl installed!

We thought the front brakes locked up again, but quickly realized the caliper was rubbing the inside of the wheel! So, I put the 1/4" wheel spacers back on & now they spin better. Now the lug nuts don't have much thread to grab... Maybe 3/4"? Does that sound ok?

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Unread 06-26-2011, 01:07 PM   #81
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrescentMoon View Post
..We thought the front brakes locked up again, but quickly realized the caliper was rubbing the inside of the wheel! So, I put the 1/4" wheel spacers back on & now they spin better
You can also grind down the calipers a bit. That would be what I'd try first unless it's obvious that the fit is way off.
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Unread 06-26-2011, 05:11 PM   #82
CrescentMoon
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Call me stubborn... But I couldn't resist taking her out!
I still don't have rear brakes, but the wheels aren't rubbing & she ran better than she did the last time I was able to drive her!

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image-676027594.jpg   image-9881181.jpg   image-1144079290.jpg   image-2821244127.jpg  
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Unread 06-27-2011, 03:59 PM   #83
CrescentMoon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444

You can also grind down the calipers a bit. That would be what I'd try first unless it's obvious that the fit is way off.
I didn't want you to think I was ignoring you... The wheel spacers are back off and I had a friend grind down the calipers, just like you recommended. Oh, and it turns out that the rear center brake hose is leaking (really bad) at the block on the rear axle. So... Now, I'm glad that there's at least fluid getting back there!! :-) Next I guess I'm replacing that line again... (its only a month or 2 old).

After the brakes are complete, I'm paying someone to replacing the rear transmission seal, front diff. seal, and change the gear oil on the front & rear.
I guess I should wait a few more weeks before I order the exhaust....

Any recommendations on which exhaust brands or configurations???

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Unread 06-27-2011, 05:57 PM   #84
alljagged24
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For 450 bucks I had custom dual flowmasters and chrome tips installed very professional work and sounds amazing and very solid.......try pricing custom shops for exhaust
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Unread 06-27-2011, 07:02 PM   #85
CrescentMoon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alljagged24
For 450 bucks I had custom dual flowmasters and chrome tips installed very professional work and sounds amazing and very solid.......try pricing custom shops for exhaust
Did you replace the headers too, or just go cat back?

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Unread 06-27-2011, 09:23 PM   #86
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrescentMoon View Post
I didn't want you to think I was ignoring you... The wheel spacers are back off and I had a friend grind down the calipers, just like you recommended. Oh, and it turns out that the rear center brake hose is leaking (really bad) at the block on the rear axle. So... Now, I'm glad that there's at least fluid getting back there!! :-) Next I guess I'm replacing that line again... (its only a month or 2 old).

After the brakes are complete, I'm paying someone to replacing the rear transmission seal, front diff. seal, and change the gear oil on the front & rear.
I guess I should wait a few more weeks before I order the exhaust....

Any recommendations on which exhaust brands or configurations???
That leaking hose would REALLY drive the Combo Valve nuts when trying to bleed the system!
Leaks is EXACTLY what it's there for and to save you from!

As for exhaust,
Just tell the guy to tuck everythign up INSIDE the frame he can get up there!
Frames protect your exhaust from getting dragged off,

And INSPECT THE WORK!
Some of these twits will do things like run your exhaust UNDER the skid plate, so the first thing that gets crushed is... You guessed it!

Make sure things like header flanges and 'U' bolts on the pipes are turned so they don't point stright down at the ground.
Those U bolts LOVE to snag on stumps, mud, limbs, ect. and bend/kink the pipes,

And since I do "Header Impact Testing" in the mud a lot, (Ripped three collectors off in three weeks a couple of years ago!)
I'm sensitive to where they located the bolts/flanges on the headers to collector joint.
That bolt sticking down there is a PRIME TARGET for anything sticking UP!
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Unread 06-28-2011, 05:28 AM   #87
CrescentMoon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer

That leaking hose would REALLY drive the Combo Valve nuts when trying to bleed the system!
Leaks is EXACTLY what it's there for and to save you from!
The funny thing was, it never leaked at home! We couldn't even get air... But, I drove it around a little before I took it to the shop & as soon as the guy lifted it, I noticed all the brake fluid! You couldn't miss it! Crazy....
Anyway, he said I'm looking at less than $100 to fix the brakes so, I'm happy.

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Unread 06-28-2011, 05:42 AM   #88
JeepHammer
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Is the line long enough when the suspension is at full 'Droop'?
If it's 'Stock' with lift, when the suspension droops, it will yank the flexible line out of the fittings.
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Unread 06-28-2011, 05:32 PM   #89
CrescentMoon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer
Is the line long enough when the suspension is at full 'Droop'?
If it's 'Stock' with lift, when the suspension droops, it will yank the flexible line out of the fittings.
Very good point... Hmmm. I guess I need to order one for a CJ with lift! :-/

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Unread 06-29-2011, 11:01 AM   #90
alljagged24
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I just complete rebuilt my 258 engine with clifford performance parts including the header, the header was not included in the exhaust price
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