I just bought a CJ7, 1979 Automatic V8 5.0 Litre..
There is an amazingly long winded story about how i bought it in december and how i managed to drive it for the first time yesterday (19th of May 2003) which I wont bore you with suffice to say the car has stood idle for 6 months without moving an inch or even having the motor turned.
However, I must tell you I live in Ibiza, a small island off the spanish coast, there are maybe 4 or 5 CJ7's here maximum, and there is only one with spanish plates, mine. Normally most of you reading this pick up tips from friends, at car meets and what not, I am completely stranded in that respect so I really need your help.
Yesterday I drove the car for the first time, and its amazing how all the things you never noticed on the test drive suddenly start screaming at you. So please bear with me, i will list some of the faults I have noticed so far, and maybe you can shed some light on who what when and why.. the Haynes manual I have has proved to be more than useless in helping me, so I am all ears..
Ok, firstly, jumped in car, turned key and nada, battery dead, recharged battery turned key in ignition and vroom we have liftoff ).
Turned out of car dealers yard and.. first thing, indicators.. they work, just. As in any slower and you would think i was pushing the on off button once every ten seconds, pitifully slow, the mechanic of the garage who I bumped into later said its because the front bulbs are to strong, should be 15w not 20w, I think the rheostat timer has gone faulty.. opions..?
Next, driving along with a huge grin on my face and I look at fuel gauge and think wow, thats nice of them, they filled the tank up (was showing full) but when I took it on the test drive 6 months earlier I remember we put 10Litres in as it was empty, No sooner had this thought flashed through my mind when BOOM! Needle shoots to less than empty, with knocking knees I dribbled the car to the nearest gas station and drew up in a state of near panic.. (pushing the jeep didnt sound like an easy option). I then proceeded to fill the car up, went to the pay desk and said I would like, um I dont know, first time to fill it, so just let her rip. let her rip they did, it managed to take 32Litres only before full. So does anyone know correct fuel tank size in Litres, and comments on Fuel Gauge.
Next, I also noticed that the temperature gauge also is playing funny buggers, I start the car, i drive less than 100Metres and it goes from cold to over maximum in that time, yet car seems fine, again on test drive six months earlier I drove it further and temperature remained steady.. Now for some reason i just have to drive out of my driveway and its showing past maximum temp, is this a faulty electrical, or thermostat siezed (car has been stood still for 6 months) comments please.. Im not smiling when i think of what may be wrong with it, exhaust gases clean and no mayonaise in the oil filler cap, oil pressure fine as well..
Missing belt. I looked at the motor yesterday and apart from kicking myself stupid for not noticing it earlier, I realised that I am a belt short. Where the Power steering pump is, it has a two grooved belt pulleys, one is connected and runs off to the left hand side of the engine, and the other goes to an object just to the right and lower of the power steering pump pulley, what is that component? Again the Haynes manual doesnt mention it, or have a photo of it, and I would like to know what it is for very obvious reasons...
Auto shift indicator, I dont know about this, and the technical manual doesnt mention it, but when i turn the lights on, the display to show the gears lights up, but when I change gear nothing happens (as in I see the gears, but i had thought that the light would move to show you what gear you were in, is there a seperate light to indicate what gear I am in, or do you just guess and the light is just there to show you the order:?
Well I have a whole more heap of stuff to numerous to list, and nothing you can help me with, such as exhaust looks like swiss cheese in parts, a little rust around front window which I should be able to sort easy enough, and a few odds and sodds like half the dash lights not working, and some of the push pull buttons come off, oh, how do those things come off and go back on? is there a small locking screw on nut ?
Also I have a horrible suspicion front drive shafts need changing (clunking when turning slowly left or right sharply) and thats about it. I am still a very happy owner, but I would be very gratefull if any of you reading this can cast your eyes over this and give me any help you can, or any other invaluable tips I should take into consideration, ps, getting parts here is a nightmare both for cost and time, so please bear that in mind before suggesting i remove the engine )) where possible I would like to remove and repair exisitng components as much as possible.
well I discovered two things in my lunch hour, one is that it is the air conditioning unit that has no drive belt attached, the second thing is that the water pump isnt working or has siezed.
I removed the Radiator cap and fired her up, not a bubble or a stirring in the radiator water, then took off a hose and holding it upwards refired it up, instead of a fountain gushing forth not a dribble.
Lastly, last night I charged the Battery up for 12 hours, this morning the car fired first turn, after lunch the battery didnt have enough charge to turn the motor over, so I ended up walking to work this afternoon.
so I am guessing that there is a short somewhere draining it or the battery isnt holding its charge, but as I charged it last night, turned it off before going to bed and 9 hours later it was full of juice im betting there is a short in the electronics..
As for the battery, you can charge it and leave it disconnected for 12 hours or so and then reconnect it to the Jeep and try to crank it. That way it you will know if the Jeep is or isn't draining power from the battery.
Not sure about the slow blinkers.
As for gas guage/tank. It either has a 15 gallon (around 57 liters) or 21 gallon (around 80 liters). A lot of people have trouble with their fuel guages too so don't worry. I could possibly be wiring, your guages (the fuel and temp guages are connected by a jumper/regulator), or the sending unit in your gas tank. See this link about the guages.
As for the temp, sounds like the water pump needs to be replaced.
As for the belt, the prior owner probably bypassed the air conditioner. The previous owner of mine did too. I just removed it completely because I didn't plan to use the A/C ever and to remove some weight and crap from under the hood.
The noise you are hearing from the front may be bearings for your axles. I'm not really sure but mine went out about 10 months ago and they made loud sound sometimes when turning.
As for the dash knobs, if they are original, I dont think they can be removed, but if they do come off, there is always glue or replacements. If you want to remove the whole thing (knob and all) they either have a locking round nut at the base of the dash or 2 plastic pieces on the back side that you squeeze and push inwards towards the interior of the Jeep.
You may want to check ALL of the fluids; transmission, oil, radiator, axles, etc, for fullness and to see if they are contaminated.
Hope this helps...
__________________ 1982 CJ-7
4.5" RE 35" X's Blue Jeep Club Member #1
Knobs and things, well the dash is original as are the knobs, one has apparently split the metal outer, the inner shaft is grooved, so i presume they either screwed on or had a way of securing themselves, I am hesitant to pull out the super glue incase I need to remove the dash, or do the knobs stay in situ when I remove the dash?
The water pump I am certain has died, now any of you done this? is it a real pain in the rear or is it best left to a garage. I am happy to do it myself provided it doesnt take a week or so.. Does the water pump gasket come seperately or is it part of a kit?
Battery wise I am fairly confident there is a short of power leak somewhere that is draining it, now i remember my father years ago told me a way to see the current drain on a battery using a voltmeter, but can i remember now? no chance, anyone remember ?
Drive shafts or wheel bearings, im leaning towards drive shafts being faulty.. I had a citroen visa GTi a long while ago, and I remember the noise and feel distinctly.. i also had a MkIII cortina that the wheel bearings collapsed on me, that left me with a definate impression of how wheel bearings collapse, especially as I was doing around 80mph on a motorway at the time )).
Lights wise, well I have two problems, one is the speed, which I am tempted to believe is due to overbright lamps, the other is that the indicators often dont work at all, looking closely at the steering wheel housing I spotted a crack in the indicator switch plastic, so I have to strip apart the steering column to fix that, good time to do the horn and gear shift lamps, anyone able to comment on those?
Thanks for all the helpful advice, keep it coming..
Cant answer many of your ?'s, being i am a newb to cj's too, but I can answer your water pump question.
I replaced the water pump on my 68' mustang this weekend, probably took a hour or 2 at the most. Just drained all the coolant and disconnected hoses, took a few bolts out of the old water pump then pried it off, then put a gasket on the new one and bolted it back up, reconnected the hoses and put the rad. back in. Real simple, should be easy for you
EDIT: a gasket came with the water pump i bought. i just got the stock replacement from advance auto.
If you have a trusted mechanic at your disposal, leave it with him for a day or so. Have him go through it and tell you what is wrong. Determine what is mechanically within your grasp so far as repairs are concerned, and save yourself some money by doing those repairs. But be realistic, a CJ is never "Fixed". Chances are you will always have some repair or improvement on your mind, that is the strange addiction that is CJ's.
Some things I know for sure-
Jeep gas gauges are moody...
Jeep electrical systems are usually possesed by evil spirits...
Alot of what you listed as wrong can be fixed with a little money and a lot of elbow grease...
And, I wouldn't part with my CJ7 for all the whiskey in Kentucky and Tennessee combined (by the way, that is a lot of freaking whiskey!!! )
Youth and talent is no replacement for age and treachery.
Oh yeah, I forgot...
You are already on the right track, there are tons of people on this post that will gladly help you through you sticking points. www.4wd.com Get their catalog, you will need it, and they deliver globally
Youth and talent is no replacement for age and treachery.
Thanks guys for the kind words I could use a morale boost
I went to the official jeep garage today, seeking the price for the water pump, and two dashboard lights, one for the drivers side floor courtesy light and one for the speedo..
The bulbs I got free, the water pump on the other hand, they dont have, nor will they ever have, as the car was never officially sold in spain and due to its age means the garage don't supply parts for the cj.
To top that off wife is mad as nuts that I bought the dam thing, so I cant tell her i cant use it because it needs a water pump or she would freak.. so each morning I grit my teeth smile as I leave the house and drive the thing to work !! (thank god its only about 2 miles away). I must say the driving experience is a little marred by me gritting my teeth as much in case the dam thing siezes on me.
To better that, their is a drain on the electrical system so I disconnect the battery when I arrive and reconenct it when I need to use it..
Oh happy days, tell me everything will be fine in the end please
Am I the only one who talks to the car?, I mean I am sat at the lights, teeth grinding away muttering come on baby just a little more, just a little more.. am I the only one who does this, I feel like Nicolas cage in sixty seconds, I have to caress the car before I drive it or I think it may slap me.
So thats about it, anyone know about the auto shift light indicator I mentioned?
please keep writing, I need to know someone knows what this is like.. I also will be getting parts shipped to work, catch is have joint bank account hard part is getting the cash as most companies want card payment (( Oh well.. ill worry about that later..
I bought the $42 water pump not the more expensive $80 one. There is a logic to this, 1) wife will batter me silly anyway, postage will probably be around $100 no matter what i order, but here is the thing.
2) I am guessing the engine is either original or failing that, extreemely worn, If I connect a pump that is 20% up on spec I risk blowing a gasket someplace else, the new pump at $40 is as new, and even that risks blowing something, so I dare not risk putting the stronger one in as you can see im in a bit of a bind over parts here, not too mention cash. The increased pressure on the system may lead to other components going, so a softly softly approach is needed.
Lastly whilst I was at the garage this morning I also asked about the exhaust pipe, same response as water pump, not available.
Really annoying thing is they have all the schematics of the CJ7 there, we looked through them, its just they cant order them
Anyway, I am either due to die from stress as the Cj blows its motor at the lights, or the wife does me in..
Maybe Ill just park it in front of my house and live in it, put it on blocks or something...
Anyone coming to spain can you smuggle a water pump in your luggage? Exhaust pipe complete would be a real treat too while your at it.. right where did I put those bricks?
The noise you describe on turning is due to bad front axle u-joints. You need to pull the front axle shafts an d replace the u-joints. (I believe that if you take it out of 4X on the front axle disconnects that the problem would go away until you need 4x).
Turn indicators you may want to try using an electronic turn switch. I used the thermal ones for a long time with the problem you indicated and when I switched to the electronic one (around $9) it went away. You may also need to check the grounds at the lamps. A faulty ground can cause this problem.
Shift indicator. I believe that there is a light to illuminate this housing. However, the indicator that tells what gear you are in is a little red line. This connects to the housing by plastic that hooks into the collar where you select PND etc.
Water Pump. The temperature guage is usually pretty unreliable in these as they get older. You describe removing a hose and no flow. If this was the upper radiator hose, and the vehicle was cold, then there should not be flow there. The thermostat would restrict flow to the radiator until the engine warms up. To check flow, remove the supply hose to the heater core and check for flow. I bet you have flow and all is fine.
Regarding electrical system. Check the alternator and battery for dead cell. If the alternator is bad, it will not recharge the battery and the system will draw from the battery for spark, etc. Start here. Be very careful and have a shop check this. I think the method you are talking about is to dicsonnect the battery while the engine is running. DONT DO THIS. There are numerous spark issues that can cause a real problem.
Regarding guages. I have an extra set sitting around. They work well, but you will need to follow instructions for installtation. They are yours if you want them (I don't know how much shipping is from Indiana to Spain).
Ok, reading through your note, the 4x4 is permanaent is it not on this model, I see the high low shift lever down by the drivers seat floor line, and I know there is the opti trac switch in the glove compartment, but other than the column shifter gearstick I didnt know there was a way to take it out of 4x4. The opti trac is on green and I am aware that it should only be used when really stuck, or were you referring to something else?.
My jeep is a 1979 CJ7 5.0L V8. Auto.
Turn indicators, well I charged the battery up again (I have to do it everyday) and the indicators almost work at normal speed when battery fully topped up, however very quickly things return to slow down as battery discharges. I am possibly of the opinion that the battery might well have lost its ability to hold charge, I have charged it to full last night, and now disconnected it and leaving it for a couple of days and then measuring it again, i think the months sitting idle have taken their toll on the battery.
Shift indicator, well I cant see any red line so I am guessing its probably been broken at some point in the past, one of the TO DO lists is to take apart the steering column switches as the horn doesnt work (the push down horn piece is missing all its pieces) so I will see what I discover when it comes apart.. Thanks for telling me what to look for, the haynes manual so far has been useless for body and switches and fittings, so I am hoping it will be better for the engine and running gear.
Temperature, well after sitting down and having a cold beer and a fresh mind, I think the thermostat may well have seized, as I live in a hot climate I think i am going to take out the thermostat altogether, i dont need hot air really in the car itself, it never goes below 5 deg centigrade here, even on the coldest days, and air conditioning is a mute point when I am planning on having the roof off most of the time. I will still install a new water pump, but it struck me that had the old one failed then water would be leaking along its shaft, but I am having no water loss from coolant so I guess it may well be Thermostat stuck, however what scares me is if i take the thermostat housing off and discover there isnt one in it now, then I am in big trouble, and yes I think the gauge is right, after driving home 2 miles yesterday, the bonnet was to hot for me to touch, I really think I should look at the thermostat before I blame the gauge, you never know it may be working fine.
Electrical system, as I mentioned above, looking hard at battery atm, but will be going over all wiring very carefully very soon.. thanks for the tip.
Gauges, well I was about to order a water pump from 4wd.com they said postage would be 55$ I cant see the gauages costing a lot more than that, yes I would like them, I dont suppose you have an original clock do you, the one in this car works fine once every 36 hours, its really erratic.
Drop me an email to email@example.com and I will talk to you about getting cash to you and so forth, dont suppose you have a paypal account do you?
ok, last question, and thanks all for those who have been reading so far and helping out, how do the gauges come out, I have a large chrome panel .. Bad picture of dash panel which the gauges are mounted in, do the gauges unscrew in some way, or does the panel come off? if it comes off what is it secured by, or to be more accurate what should it be secured by, knowing my luck I will probably find its been superglued
You may want to rethink the thermostat. Removing it altogether will cause your engine to run cold for a lot longer. If memory serves, an engine that is hot (but not overheating) will run most efficiently (read as better gas mileage and wear/tear).
The guages I have are replacements (not original). They do, however, fit into the original guage locations. Again, I only have the gas and temperature.
I stand corrected. I forgot that the automatic trannys came without locking front hubs. You have to replace those axle u-joints and the popping and erratic steering (at low speeds) will go away.
Your best bet for the gear indicator is a gentleman who deals with Grand Wagoneers. Bob Shaw of Christines Auto in Worchester Mass. knows what the parts are and might be able to help. Look him up on hte web, and see if he can help you via a picture (my wife's was missing the indicator). Bob said that there are three parts...a metal horseshoe type clamp that hooks onto the steering wheel collar (where the shifter is), an arm, and the pointer. I believe that he charges around $20 for all three parts. This should be able to be fixed without removing the steering wheel.
I am not the best source of information regarding steering columns. Rather than work on mine, I just bought a new one...
Guages are secured behind the dash. There should be a few nuts to remove and the guage should pull out behind the dash and drop down.
thanks for the info, I will remove the thermostat and see if it cures the heat issue, if it doesnt I have big problems ( if it does then I will buy a thermostat and fit it after testing to see where the fault is.
The dash units I will strip out this weekend, and have a look at the wiring while I am at it.
On a side note, I just found out a freind of mine has been a realk dark horse, while I was gloating of my pride and joy, he turns up in an original CJ 3 A complete with original motor and as close to an original copy of a military jeep as you are likely to see this side of the ocean.
I was worried about parts and what not, god knows how he is going to get on, he is thinking of taking the wife on a trip to america, I can't think what would make him possibly want to go there (joking, I like the USA, but i think he has ulterior motives for going there).
Whats the bet he has the biggest suitcases you have ever seen coming back jammy git.
I will see if I can take some photos of it and post them here for you..
well quick update, stripped out the Thermostat, and made a gasket out of a cereal packet (chocalate chip crunchies if you must know) reassembled.
Time taken about 35 minutes.
Well, the temperature gauge still goes way off the scale, even ticking over infront of my house, but the car is better, I drove it round the block a few times, parked up, and instead of being blasted 100 yards by the engine heat, it is now well within normal range, even though the gauge says different, I know its ok.
all I need to do now is get this alternator fault looked at and sort out some of the dashboard gauges and I might even be able to drive it without gritting my teeth.