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Old 05-30-2008, 09:02 AM   #16
bigjoe
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1977 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Paltz,NY
Posts: 1,652
Man you had the "Jeep Thing" fever real bad before you jumped into that from the pics. Looks a little hairy for a suspension setup. I'm sure it "works" but when it lets go or breaks it will be a very bad day and someone will get really hurt. If your lucky only your wallet will feel the damage and it just gernades far from home and the road. Not trying to bash you in anyway for buying a CJ that needs work. They all do. Just address the suspension, and if not sure which way to go just ask and will help ya out.
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Old 05-30-2008, 09:16 AM   #17
PortlandCJ76
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2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 239
You may haven't done as bad as it looks.

I bought my CJ-7 a year and a half ago for $3500 and it has a reconstructed title. There's rust all over concealed by gobs of bondo, fiberglass, and bedliner, that I never noticed at the time. Considering the title status, it was a $2000 Jeep at best, but you live and learn. I've sunk almost $3000 into it since, and it's nowhere near done.

Now you got a fiberglass body, a blueprinted 350 and a turbo 350. That's a fairly big job that many home mechanics such as myself would stray away from. But, this is assuming that the 350 conversion was done correctly! By the looks of the suspension, it may not have.

So here's your parts costs as I see it:
New springs - $200
New shocks - $120
New shock mounts - $40
Extended brake lines - $80
Anti-wrap bar - $250
Quality outboard bracketry - $100
CV shaft - $300
Hi-steer - $400-500

Total parts - $1500

Assuming engine was done right, you got:
CJ w/fiberglass body and a decent frame, 350/Turbo 350, full width axles, Hi steer, SOA, new 35's - total - $4400

Not a bad price in my opinion. You sure as hell did a lot better than me.
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Old 05-30-2008, 10:23 AM   #18
CopperCJ7
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1984 CJ7 
 
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Bravo to Jeephammer

I agree with everything he said AND I would get rid of that overly-stupid 3" body lift. Body lifts are for people who don't have the money for real lift kits at the the right height in the first place. They're unsafe Band-Aids. Does that Jeep have wheel spacers too? If so, get rid of them too.

My suggestion is NEVER go over 1" in body lift if at all. It's not only dangerous (possible body sheer in an accident) but makes the Jeep wobble from side-to-side and front-to-back.

Please do yourself a favor... the next time you want to buy a Jeep - take along someone who knows Jeeps or take pictures BEFORE you buy and ask this forum what they think.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
What CJ owner doesn't want to hack up his harness for the next owner to have fun with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Broseph View Post
The thread will derail quicker than a walrus on a Crisco-soaked Slip 'n' Slide.
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Old 05-30-2008, 05:07 PM   #19
rockhopinCJ
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: ABQ,NM
Posts: 23
First of all lets all remember I got this as a project. i knew the lift was not done right and I traded a Explorer that was MAYBE thats a big MAYBE worth a grand.. Now I fully agree with all of you that it needs work just not have decided what to do with the suspension. I want it as an off road and sometimes on road jeep, suggestions? Also the axles are chevy 3/4 ton from a 79 full size. thanks for the comments keep em comming
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Old 05-30-2008, 05:15 PM   #20
rockhopinCJ
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: ABQ,NM
Posts: 23
All these pics were taken the day I got it. I have since put new calipers on it and plan on the lines this weekend. Also taking care of the batt cable as pointed out by a few of you. I think its a good deal for the trade I did, it was by no means worth 2900. I see it as a good tub/engine/tranny/axles/tires/frame project. Its a toy in the making I am trying to get ahold of this guy I know and see if he will help me out with it. He builds crawlers for a living and said he would help me out. Thats where it will be stripped and re done the right way and not ghetto fabulous like it is now. This thing does have some "interesting" fab work done to it. I need some ideas on the yub, how can I make it stonger? Fab some bars and tie them to the frame and make some supports? I mean the front and back seats and roll bars are tied in to fiberglass. What good is that gonna do? Help me destroy the tub faster?
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Old 05-31-2008, 03:49 AM   #21
k91
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 50
Wow at first I thought the chains were holding it down to a trailer but then I looked again and didn't see any trailer...anyways you got enough flak already. Looks like a decent start there. Good luck and start searching everything you want to know is on here or one of the other Jeep boards
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Old 05-31-2008, 04:40 PM   #22
My1978CJ7
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Ill start off by saying, I would have also traded, in a heartbeat....

But that is some of the backest woods fab work I have ever seen, its actually pretty simple to fix all that abortion, just cut it all off and start over....

There are many many many issues I see in those pics, but its all there, and a great starting point, dont for one sec think about driving it that way.
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Old 06-02-2008, 09:54 PM   #23
rockhopinCJ
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: ABQ,NM
Posts: 23
You know I have driven this a few times and it seems ok. I dont like the way it is done with some really creative fab work done. Its been out wheeling a few times and it holds up great. It does not make any noise or anything.. Dont worry tho I will be fixing it soon. Well when I decide how I want to do the suspension.
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Old 06-05-2008, 10:53 PM   #24
BESRK
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1980 CJ5 
 
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Location: Newport News, VA
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Hmmm... Not sure where to begin. I'd probably start by putting the frame up on jackstands and cutting all the suspension stuff off the frame. I'd then pick up (or make) some better spring/shackle hangers and outboard bracketry... a good weekend's worth of work.

I really don't like those two "Ubolt straps" going across the front springs. It may be the pic but it looks to me like the straps are already bent.. and are also bending the Ubolts just under the nut.. only a matter of time before that probably fails.. allowing the front axle to part company with the vehicle.. probably during a turn or braking.. both scary scenarios.

I see potential there.. looks to be a Chevy 10 bolt front axle. Similar strength as a D44. The rear is probably a 12 bolt. Not bad but it is a C-clip axle.. again, about as strong as a D44.
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