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Unread 02-20-2009, 08:45 AM   #106
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sliseno View Post
just curious...can i do this on a 99 tj?or something similar?i have some problems with misfires and build up inside my dist. cap. i have the 4.0.
I don't know, haven't worked on an upgrade for the 4.0 engine, but the caps look similar to the TFI distributor cap adapter... SO it's possible.

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Unread 02-20-2009, 11:42 AM   #107
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tshark299 View Post
What are you talking about??? Are you even reading the things I'm writing or are you too eager to publicly praise JeepHammer every chance you get? HEI clones? Hardened gears? Miscut gears? What does any of this have to do with TFI, which is what I'm talking about, which is what the core of the TeamRush upgrade is when you get past the discussion on how a black distributor cap will cost you 20 horsepower.

And CRT took JeepHammer's info and packaged it?? Again, I did this exact same ignition upgrade to my Jeep 5 years ago, which is 3 years before JeepHammer was even a member on this forum. And even when I did this back then, there was a WEALTH of information on this upgrade on this forum, on other forums, and on the Google... and the JuiceBox kit had long been available at that point as well. Was JeepHammer posting all this information under a different name back then? Can you help me out with a link to JeepHammer opening the world's eyes to the TFI ignition upgrade beck in 2003, or earlier?

When I did my "TeamRush" ignition upgrade 5 years ago, I had a long list of links and writups to integrating TFI ignition parts as well as the "Stealth HEI" module upgrade on the computer I had at the time. I should dig out that computer and check to see if JeepHammer's name is on any of those pages.... I'm thinking it's not.

And again, I hope I'm not coming off as being critical to JeepHammer himself, because that's not my intention. It's obvious he's put alot of time and effort into researching and compiling this information into a format that's easy for the novice to follow. But to say that he invented this upgrade and that the others have just been taking his information (directing this at you Fjguercio) is not only a gross exaggeration but also a disrespect to those that posted this info all over the internet many many years ago.

I will remove my link though, because you did ask nicely. As for removing the last 2/3rds of my post... are you kidding me? No, sorry, I won't censor myself to make it easier for you to brainwash unfamiliar people into thinking this is new information.

Tshark,

Sorry do not agree.

The problem with the internet is wrong stuff and correct stuff gets printed. I objected nicely as you said that you posted CRT WEB site and Juice Box as suppliers of these type of upgrades. I asked for removal because there are major failures with their parts currently. Parts that can cause major failure of the CJ Engines and grind up the cam gear or bind up the oil pump or both.

If you, Please Do, look at the link provided you would have read this. You removed your CRT Web link pretty quick and I did not quote it when I posted because it was bad information. Tshark, you posted wrongly CRT website as supplier of cap/rotar and the website shows the CHEAP FAULTY HEI DISTRIBUTOR CLONES FOR THE AMC ENGINES mostly. I looked

The request to remove the reference to CRT and Juice Box was done so the Good Folks here at JeepForum get the good stuff and not something that takes out their cam gear and puts harnened metal into their oil pan. Or locks up their oil pump and a complete rebuild is needed now. But I do understand you did not read the link.

I copied JeepHammer Post on Grounds because he taught me the aux grounds needed to make the CJ run better and this is his thread. That was respect not trying to pump him up. I can do it in my own words and some nice pics if you think I should.

OH... the black colored distributor caps and rotars are often colored with carbon and carbon conductive. That is why we never want to use a black colored distributor cap. It is more likely to arc and trace trying to control the spark energy. The higher the energy the quicker these will fail. I will give you one guess who taugth me that.

I have learned a lot in the past year here at JeepForum. I have also found several things that can take out our CJ. The Ebay Quality HEI distributor is one them, and you fell right into it. I was not trying to get on your case. The JeepForum Members often just read the last page and take action. Your wrong information was at the end, The CRT HEI crap that can take out an engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tshark299 View Post
gross exaggeration, disrespect, censor myself, brainwash
.
Those are some of the words you used??


Just trying to protect the good folks here at JeepForum
Not trying pick a fight with you.
I read quite well and understand most engineering principles.
I am a native NewYorker and was born in Manhattan, can you tell?

Welcome back,
Fred
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Unread 02-20-2009, 02:14 PM   #108
OCDWheeler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
Here is a past post from JeepHammer on gounds copied & pasted below. I also found a detail on TeamRush and gounds and another coversation in this thread. You guys can look here two and some excellent info. Click the link
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/help-rush-upgrade-ignition-problems-547543/


Regards,
Fred

Speaking of the Grounds......I'm going to do them this weekend - thanks to you for putting me in touch with the JH post...Big thank you to JH for the post as well.....I've been a little overwhelmed looking through the Teamrush threads as there seems to be info here and there....I know Jeephammer was trying to make it all inclusive in the "definitive" thread but I missed his Ground post from a different thread....Can't wait to get started....
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Unread 02-20-2009, 03:48 PM   #109
JeepHammer
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Electrically speaking,
DEDICATED GROUNDS ARE THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT THING YOU CAN DO FOR YOUR 23+ YEAR OLD CJ!


Proper grounds will save more aggravation and time in diagnosing and solving problems than you can imagine!

Grounding the engine head(s) will give the 40K volts of spark energy someplace to go instead of burning grounding spots inside your coil.

Grounding the ignition module will solve MANY of the 'Module Failures' almost immediately.

Grounding the starter directly will solve most 'Grinding Start' or 'Slow Starter' Complaints immediately!

You simply wouldn't believe how many Head Light And Turns Signal problems are noting more than ground problems, so running a dedicated ground to the collective grounds in the front and rear will solve most of those.

Slow or no windshield wipers, dash lights doing strange things, weird gauge readings, ect. all almost always a bad ground to the dash panel...

Pulsing lights or strange/low voltage charging is usually a result of lacking ground to the alternator.

Military vehicles don't suffer these problems, but they REQUIRE dedicated grounds.

Loose, corroded, rusted cables/terminals bolted with rusty bolts, loose washers, bolted to painted surfaces, connected with loose sheet metal parts and rusty bolts...

People don't understand that electrical current DOES NOT PASS THROUGH MOST PAINT OR RUST!
Just because a bracket seems solidly bolted down, doesn't mean the rust in the bolt holes, under the heads, or the paint isn't keeping the electrical connection from happening!

Electrically speaking,
You are driving for or five vehicles, flying in close formation, but not electrically connected!

The front fenders/grill DO NOT automatically have ELECTRICAL CONNECTION to the Tub or Front Grill where the head lights/park/turn lights are grounded...

The frame is separated from the drive train by rubber mounts.
Rear lights have to fight corrosion, rust, mud caked wires, corroded terminals, and a dozen other problems to get a ground...

A ground bolted to the side of an engine is virtually worthless! Too many rusted bolts, dissimilar metal connections, corrosion, paint, loose fasteners, ect. between that rusty connection to the block,
And the different parts that need an electrical 'Ground'...
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Unread 02-20-2009, 03:55 PM   #110
Tshark299
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Alright guys... YOU WIN. I will respectfully bow out. Before I put these parts on my Jeep I researched this to death (like I do before any other potential upgrade) and not once did I come across the name "TeamRush", and had not seen it until just recently. I politely tried to find out what the deal was with my first posts only to be called awful and then have most of the subsequent reply not even match my inqueries.

So anyway, sorry for causing the stir... and since 'most people only read the end of posts', this is a good upgrade that should be top priority if you have a 258 powered Jeep. I didn't notice much if any fuel mileage increase but the smoothness and responsiveness of my engine improved dramatically. I've got probably 30K on my parts and the thing still starts and runs like the day I installed them, even if it's been sitting for a couple months.
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Unread 02-20-2009, 04:04 PM   #111
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FRED,

People are allowed to believe anything they want. This is America, and here you are allowed to believe anything you want from the absolute truth to total crap!.
(of course, there is no 'Absolute Truth' so there are extremists in both directions!)

The good part about this forum is we try and GUIDE people towards the Engineering side of things, nudge them towards the truth as it stands now,
And we aren't being bullied by 'Advertisers' here...

We can speak the truth as we know it now, and we aren't censured by the staff for 'Upsetting' the sponsors...
Let's hear it for the staff!


On other forums, the truth of things is beaten down by guys that use nothing but 4 letter words, No explanations,
No tech, No proof...
Just, "It's this way because this guy or that guy does it that way..."

Other forums are bought and paid for by the sponsors.
It's amazing how much 'Moderation' or 'Censorship' you can buy for a few 'T' shirts and ball caps!

Still other forums have 'Moderators' that get offended when you argue some technical point with them...
Ego gets in the way of good information.

We don't seem to have ANY of that here.
If you have an idea, Post it up and it will be 'Peer Reviewed' openly, and by people that can put a sentence & a circuit together,
Or by people that can put an engine together,
Or by people that can weld, or what ever the article/subject of the post is...

And most of the time, it doesn't get personal...
---------------------------------

That's what I like about this forum!
Good people, good tech, mostly well mannered...
The hat sideways, baggy pants guys don't get to throw Feces for the sake of trying to be 'Cool'...

We can GENTLY guide a guy to the correct information,
Or we can guide him to the door...
His choice.

I've noticed the guys that were CONSTANTLY WRONG have found the door,
And many of the guys that stayed have made real contributions instead of just racking up post counts!
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Unread 02-20-2009, 04:23 PM   #112
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tshark299 View Post
Alright guys... YOU WIN. I will respectfully bow out. Before I put these parts on my Jeep I researched this to death (like I do before any other potential upgrade) and not once did I come across the name "TeamRush", and had not seen it until just recently. I politely tried to find out what the deal was with my first posts only to be called awful and then have most of the subsequent reply not even match my inqueries.
Yes, I think that was a little 'Dramatic' myself, but everyone is allowed to their own opinion...

I try and post FACTUAL information without personally crapping on the guy I'm replying to.

Sorry you were offended.
I'd be glad to clear up any questions you might have about the upgrade, whatever you choose to call it...
Since I'm pretty good at ignitions in specific, and electronics in general, I'll try to answer any questions that come my way.

Quote:
So anyway, sorry for causing the stir...
I think you were viewed as one of the foaming at the mouth HEI guys that occasionally pop up and rant on endlessly about how great this or that HEI clone is, then disappear when it comes time to compare notes or recite technical information that backs up their position...

We have a couple of manufacturers and sales guys that sneak in 'Shills' once in a while to tout their particular products, and you may have been mistaken for one of them.
The post count should have been a clue you weren't one of them, but people are a little shell shocked around here from time to time, and personally, I can't blame them!

I personally have been called about every name you can think of, threatened with being sued, threatened to be beat up, ect...
So I'm pretty used to it now since it's been going on for about 10 years now!
But some of the guys still take it personally!

I invite 'Peer Review' if they can keep it technical.
If they want to take it into another arena, then I usually deal with that also...

I don't make any effort to keep anything secret.
Everyone knows who I am, where I live, when I'm going wheeling and what event I'm going to be at...
If they want to take it up there, they know where I'll be!
---------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
...and since 'most people only read the end of posts', this is a good upgrade that should be top priority if you have a 258 powered Jeep.
Pretty good upgrade for any CJ Jeep and may TJ's, I-6 or V-8!

The 'E-core' coil isn't really required for the I-6 guys, since they don't get into 'Dwell' or Saturation time problems like the V-8 guys do,
But they like the E-core coil, and it certainly doesn't HURT anything!

The V-8 guys should ALL do the E-core coil upgrade!
The saturation times (Dwell) on a V-8 can really benifit from the E-core coil upgrade.

Quote:
I didn't notice much if any fuel mileage increase but the smoothness and responsiveness of my engine improved dramatically. I've got probably 30K on my parts and the thing still starts and runs like the day I installed them, even if it's been sitting for a couple months.
Did you run any extra timing? Open plug gap up to ).045"?
Usually, some added timing will help with highway mileage,
and opening up the plug gap will also help with mileage both in town and on the highway.

Some guys just have the carb jetted WAY too rich (I'm guilty!) and some drive on way too big of tires and gears to see a big jump in mileage...

I know with mine, since I can now run at highway speeds, I drive at highway speeds, and that will hurt mileage when you add an extra 15 MPH wind resistance on a rolling BRICK!

The point for me was, I could run at highway speeds, which I couldn't do on the small cap and short rotor!

Anyway, sorry things got off on the wrong foot, and welcome back!
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Unread 02-20-2009, 04:46 PM   #113
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tshark299 View Post
Alright guys... YOU WIN. I will respectfully bow out. Before I put these parts on my Jeep I researched this to death

So anyway, sorry for causing the stir... and since 'most people only read the end of posts', this is a good upgrade that should be top priority if you have a 258 powered Jeep. I didn't notice much if any fuel mileage increase but the smoothness and responsiveness of my engine improved dramatically. I've got probably 30K on my parts and the thing still starts and runs like the day I installed them, even if it's been sitting for a couple months.
Tshark,

I agree it is a great upgrade.

This also works on the 232, the V8's 304, 360 and 401. Research?????, just read this single thread and should clear up that misconception for you.


Thank you JeepForum
Thank you JeepHammer

Fred
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Unread 02-20-2009, 05:07 PM   #114
BioTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
Did you run any extra timing? Open plug gap up to ).045"?
Usually, some added timing will help with highway mileage,
and opening up the plug gap will also help with mileage both in town and on the highway.
What do you mean by running extra timing? Advanced or retarded? I'm going to assume advanced (as more deg. BTDC) correct?
If so, how much are we talking?
Thanks in advance (no pun intended )...
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Unread 02-20-2009, 06:40 PM   #115
Tshark299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer
Did you run any extra timing? Open plug gap up to ).045"?
Usually, some added timing will help with highway mileage,
and opening up the plug gap will also help with mileage both in town and on the highway.
Well since you are the expert and since you asked, maybe you can help me out with something I've been wondering about since I swapped these parts in.

Right now I am running the factory recommended advance setting, which from memory is 9 at 1600rpms. This equates to about 1 BTDC at idle (about 700rpms), without the distributor's mechanical advance bumping it up. I've tried it up to 4 degrees more advanced, and it has run well with more power and no pinging that I can detect, but the problem is that with the HEI module I have trouble getting it started.

The DuraSpark would retard the timing 10 degrees (or maybe 6? been a while since i researched all this) during cranking to make it easier to start, but the HEI does not have this feature. With any more than 1 at idle, my engine kicks and fights against the starter. You can see the electrical system really strain by the lights dimming severely with each engine rotation. A few times the cranking would stall in mid crank from one of these kicks, sometime would resume cranking again, sometimes I'd have to let go of the key for fear of something catching fire... the lights would go way dim when this would happen so I can imagine the load of the starter trying to turn but being held by the engine. Basically, instead of a smooth fluid cranking motion, it is more of a "pulsing" start.

All in all my Jeep blew through 5 starters and 2 batteries in the first year after adding the HEI module. One battery went from full charge to mostly dead in the middle of cranking, when one of these "starter stalls" happened... it essentially shorted out the battery internally, and it would only produce a few volts afterward. A few of these kicks broke teeth off the starter gear and on one starter the whole gear actually shattered into pieces. My ring gear is also severely worn now from all of this.

Finally I reduced my timing back to stock. Though it's still more of a pulsing crank when I start it, I've only had to replace the starter once since then and I've never had a problem with the battery. I'd love to get the extra power from more advanced timing but it's just too unreliable for me. I've thought about going back to a DuraSpark module but just haven't been able to get myself to do that. I've heard of a few other people with this same setup having the same problem, but for the most part it seems like most people that run an HEI module don't have peoblems as severe as mine.

I've got the big cap and rotor, e-coil, 8mm wires, plugs gapped to .045, an HEI module, and have done the Nutter bypass. Ever heard of anyone having these problems with this setup and more advanced than stock timing, JeepHammer?
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Unread 02-20-2009, 06:55 PM   #116
Tshark299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio
Research?????, just read this single thread and should clear up that misconception for you.
Again....... when I installed these parts on my Jeep... THIS THREAD DID NOT EXIST . I do not know how else to make this point any more clear for you.

Again..... Fjguercio, you consistantly gloss over most of what I say and then reply with something barely relavent. Do you actually read anything I write on here? Am I wasting my time by writing this right now? I guess I answered my own question there....
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'51 CJ-3A - Buick 225 V6: Painless Wiring Harness, Warn Overdrive & Hubs, 2" Lift, 31" Muds
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Unread 02-20-2009, 07:35 PM   #117
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tshark299 View Post
Again....... when I installed these parts on my Jeep... THIS THREAD DID NOT EXIST . I do not know how else to make this point any more clear for you.

Again..... Fjguercio, you consistantly gloss over most of what I say and then reply with something barely relavent. Do you actually read anything I write on here? Am I wasting my time by writing this right now? I guess I answered my own question there....
Dear Tshark,

The problem my dear friend is when you post to a long running 100+ threat it would be nice if you took the ten minutes or so to read the thread from the beginning. SEVERAL of the question you ask are covered fully. Kinda of pet peve with me, don't read and want every thing answered for you fully.

You are posting on a thread that does exist and "glossing" over appears to be your problem. I said nothing of your 5 year research, you did. It is just plain polite to read the thread you are posting on. When I / we point this out now 2-4 times you keep insulting us or at least me.

Just like your starter.. We just got done talking aux grounds and how they can make your starter run better, keep your starter healthy, keep you from chewing up you ring gear and carp like this in the past page. So please do me a favor wipe you eyes, clear the tears, and just read this post for a few minutes. Also suggest when you start up shut off all lights and energy using equipment. The starter is the largest energy user on the stock CJ other than a winch.

I would suggest you take a voltage reading on your battery, it should be 12.5min or more hopefully. In MN you should be running a 850 or 900 CCA battery. If below that voltage slow charge, 2 amps, for 6-8 hrs. Let battery sit for day or so after. Take voltage reading again and record. Bring battery to Auto Store and ask them to load test, free service. Then ck your battery terminals, treat any corrosion with baking soda and water followed by rinse. I put a dab of vaseline on the top of battery connections to keep from corrosion. Cheap and works well. If you battery terminals look old or orginal replace them. Add you aux grounds as mentioned a few posts ago.

You could also use a toggle switch to interupt your coil power or ground with you first crank your engine. Then put the switch back once the engine is turning over so you get spark. On a stock 258 engine I do not feel this is necessary and is over kill.

As mentioned above your problems are in your grounds and battery connections. Hey but what do we know.

Your complaints are getting a bit much and on verge of foolish.

Fred



I run a MSD with stock distributor 8 deg of initial advance. I also do not have the DuraSpark Time Dealy/Retard on start up and no starting issues. Mine Cranks right over summer or winter with 8 degrees of initial advance. Almost like you are testing up to see if understand your post and question.

Last edited by Fjguercio; 02-20-2009 at 07:45 PM..
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Unread 02-20-2009, 08:40 PM   #118
Tshark299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio
Dear Tshark,

The problem my dear friend is when you post to a long running 100+ threat it would be nice if you took the ten minutes or so to read the thread from the beginning. SEVERAL of the question you ask are covered fully. Kinda of pet peve with me, don't read and want every thing answered for you fully.
Again... I have read all 7, now 8, pages. If you don't want to answer my question, which was not clearly answered already, then stop replying to to my posts. I'm pretty sure I directed my question to JeepHammer anyway... which was meant to be a hint for you to leave me alone but I guess you didn't read between the lines... not surprising.

Quote:
You are posting on a thread that does exist and "glossing" over appears to be your problem. I said nothing of your 5 year research, you did. It is just plain polite to read the thread you are posting on. When I / we point this out now 2-4 times you keep insulting us or at least me.
Another fine example of how you don't read what I write! I never said anything about 5 years of research either. I said I did this upgrade 5 years ago...


Quote:
Just like your starter.. We just got done talking aux grounds and how they can make your starter run better, keep your starter healthy, keep you from chewing up you ring gear and carp like this in the past page. So please do me a favor wipe you eyes, clear the tears, and just read this post for a few minutes. Also suggest when you start up shut off all lights and energy using equipment. The starter is the largest energy user on the stock CJ other than a winch.
I read all about the grounds. I have am positive that my grounds are strong and that that is not my problem. And by my lights dimming I was using that visual as a way to describe the symptoms of my problem. I generally do not have any accessories running when starting.

Quote:
I would suggest you take a voltage reading on your battery, it should be 12.5min or more hopefully. In MN you should be running a 850 or 900 CCA battery. If below that voltage slow charge, 2 amps, for 6-8 hrs. Let battery sit for day or so after. Take voltage reading again and record. Bring battery to Auto Store and ask them to load test, free service. Then ck your battery terminals, treat any corrosion with baking soda and water followed by rinse. I put a dab of vaseline on the top of battery connections to keep from corrosion. Cheap and works well. If you battery terminals look old or orginal replace them. Add you aux grounds as mentioned a few posts ago.
Battery is new. Cables are 2AWG and new. Clamps are new. Terminals are clean. I shouldn't have much voltage resistance between the battery and the starter.

Quote:
You could also use a toggle switch to interupt your coil power or ground with you first crank your engine. Then put the switch back once the engine is turning over so you get spark. On a stock 258 engine I do not feel this is necessary and is over kill.
That would definitely be overkill, and unfortunately probably wouldn't help. After flipping the switch, the first spark would just kick back against the starter, since it would be before top dead center. This often happens to me after the engine has been cranking for a bit.

Quote:
As mentioned above your problems are in your grounds and battery connections. Hey but what do we know.

Your complaints are getting a bit much and on verge of foolish.

Fred


Almost like you are testing up to see if understand your post and question.
Ok now that's just ridiculous....

You know, I have never ever had a problem like this with anyone else on this forum since I joined in 2004. You are the one that started with the complaints and insults right off the bat, when the questions and explanations in my first posts were genuine. So lets do each other a favor and stop replying to each other posts. I'll hold up my end of you'll be so kind as to do the same for me.
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'95 XJ - Donated drive train to the YJ, Parted out the rest

'51 CJ-3A - Buick 225 V6: Painless Wiring Harness, Warn Overdrive & Hubs, 2" Lift, 31" Muds
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Unread 02-20-2009, 08:49 PM   #119
Fjguercio
Web Wheeler
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Burnsville, MN
Posts: 2,814
You are a piece of work.

If that is what you wanted should just have omitted all the crap.

Dont add alll the grounds, keep saying its you HEI Modual, 100s' installed same way, but yours is different. Maybe someone else will give you a different answer but I doubt it.

Good luck to you,
Fred
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Unread 02-20-2009, 08:55 PM   #120
JeepHammer
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 10,702
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tshark299 View Post
Well since you are the expert and since you asked, maybe you can help me out with something I've been wondering about since I swapped these parts in.

Right now I am running the factory recommended advance setting, which from memory is 9 at 1600rpms.

This equates to about 1 BTDC at idle (about 700rpms),
The two bolded statements lead me to believe you are running the factory timing computer...

If you had done the stand alone HEI (HEI Hybrid) or 'Nutter Bypass',
The ignition timing would be a direct read at curb idle,
(with vacuum disconnected)

As it is, I'm betting on the 'Stealth HEI' with the computer still hooked up...
And you will need to tell me if I'm correct or not...


Quote:
...without the distributor's mechanical advance bumping it up.
The 'Mechanical Advance', or more properly referred to as Centrifugal advance (Springs & Weights) will only provide about 5 of lower RPM advance...

Let's start from basics.

The 'Computer Control' version of the Jeep/Motorcraft ignition is actually showing about 15 advance when it's set, and the 'Computer' retards the timing down to a level that will pass emissions for your particular year.

When you leave the emissions computer hooked up,
And do the 'Stealth HEI' upgrade (HEI module connected to Motorcraft harness and timing computer)
The ignition is way far advanced to where it should be.

When the engine is running, and the computer gets an RPM signal, it adjusts the timing to compensate for RPM, O2 sensor, ect.

When you are cranking, the factory Jeep/Motorcraft/DuraSpark module has a 'Starting' or 'Cranking' circuit that bypasses the computer,
And that circuit retards the timing 8 to 12 degrees during cranking to compensate for hot engine, slow crankshaft speeds, ect.

When you put the HEI module in, there is NO hard start circuit,
And when cranking, you are probably getting an extra 15 of initial timing until the engine starts, and you let the key switch off to the 'Run' position, where the computer takes over again and retards the timing to what ever level it's supposed to be...

Just a side effect of the 'Stealth HEI' module...
You don't get something for nothing, that's why I always tell people to use a CDI module and separate that factory computer from the ignition...

Quote:
I've tried it up to 4 degrees more advanced, and it has run well with more power and no pinging that I can detect, but the problem is that with the HEI module I have trouble getting it started.
Ever considered an ignition cut out switch?

An ignition cut out switch will disconnect the ignition momentarily while your engine gets spinning good,
Then you can let up on the button and the ignition will start working again, and the engine starts.

They were pretty well MANDATORY in the racing classes we had to run HEI distributors in, since an HEI and a high compression engine don't get along well at all!

Quote:
The DuraSpark would retard the timing 10 degrees (or maybe 6? been a while since i researched all this) during cranking to make it easier to start, but the HEI does not have this feature.
So you are familiar with the concept of a 'Start' or 'Crank' circuit!
GOOD! Makes things MUCH easier!

Add to that the fact the timing computer is a 'RETARD' based system, where the distributor is actually more advanced than you think,
And then using the HEI module turns all that loose on the module during cranking, you can see why it's hard to start when hot!

Quote:
With any more than 1 at idle, my engine kicks and fights against the starter. You can see the electrical system really strain by the lights dimming severely with each engine rotation. A few times the cranking would stall in mid crank from one of these kicks, sometime would resume cranking again, sometimes I'd have to let go of the key for fear of something catching fire...
Yup, that's the engine firing the intake charge before the crankshaft has enough momentum built up to over come the 'Power Stroke' and the starter gets stopped dead in it's tracks!
This is simply a classic case of WAY TOO MUCH IGNITION TIMING for the crank speed!

Quote:
...the lights would go way dim when this would happen so I can imagine the load of the starter trying to turn but being held by the engine. Basically, instead of a smooth fluid cranking motion, it is more of a "pulsing" start.
Yup, that 'Lights Going Dim' is your starter motor becoming a direct short to the battery!
That's why the lights go dim, it's just like touching the positive battery cable to the negative post!

Quote:
All in all my Jeep blew through 5 starters and 2 batteries in the first year after adding the HEI module.
1. Add a full size battery cable to the negative terminal of the battery, and connect it to a starter mounting bolt.
The largest drain in your vehicle is the starter, and the largest 'Ground' wire should go there!

2. Consider an Ignition cut out switch.
Easy to wire, simple to operate and will stop all those hard start problems...

To test this 'Theroy'...
The next time your engine is warm, and you have this problem,
Go out and pull the coil connector off the coil
Then crank the engine.

If the engine cranks fine (but of course will not start with the coil unhooked), then you have found your problem!

Quote:
One battery went from full charge to mostly dead in the middle of cranking, when one of these "starter stalls" happened... it essentially shorted out the battery internally, and it would only produce a few volts afterward.
Wasn't an 'Optima' battery was it?
Shorting out a battery is the SECOND worst thing you can do it it!
You will De-Solder plates from their terminals, burn and crack bridges between terminals, ect.

Quote:
A few of these kicks broke teeth off the starter gear and on one starter the whole gear actually shattered into pieces. My ring gear is also severely worn now from all of this.
Yup. Hate to hear that, since replacing a ring gear is SUCH a pain in the azz!

Quote:
I've got the big cap and rotor, e-coil, 8mm wires, plugs gapped to .045, an HEI module, and have done the Nutter bypass. Ever heard of anyone having these problems with this setup and more advanced than stock timing, JeepHammer?
Only when the computer is still in place...
BUT,
The potential is there from the restrictive advance in the distributor...

This sounds silly, but you KNOW since you have done the Nutter bypass, you don't have to set the timing at 1,600 anymore?
Do you know to remove the vacuum line from the distributor and plug it when setting advance?
(don't forget to hook it up when done!)

The 'Computer Years' had a VERY short range of advance built into the 'Low End' of the RPM range...
Usually around 5 degrees, where without computer you would have up to 18 degrees...

This would let your distributor back the timing down quite a bit at low RPM, or when cranking the engine...

Have you considered getting a distributor from 'Pre Computer' years and using it?
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