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I-6 'TeamRush Upgrade' (definitive)

359K views 804 replies 248 participants last post by  moto450r 
#1 · (Edited)
*
I NO LONGER RECOMMEND AUTOLITE PLUG WIRES!

I HAVE HAD REAL TROUBLE WITH THEM IN THE PAST TWO YEARS AND I NO LONGER RECOMMEND THEM!

IF YOU WANT 'OFF THE SHELF' WIRES,
Then Use 'Motorcraft' brand wires instead,
They seem to still be fairly well made...


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PARTS LIST, Advance Auto,

Advance Auto, DISTRIBUTOR CAP p/n C193 from Borg Warner.

Advance Auto, ROTOR p/n D219Z from Borg Warner.

Advance Auto, CAP ADAPTER p/n C193AP from Borg Warner.

Advance Auto, PLUG WIRES p/n WR4050 from Motorcraft.
(Comes with BOTH coil wires, E-core coils are NOT recommended with stock ignition modules)

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PARTS LIST, Auto Zone

Auto Zone, Cap Adapter, $4.99, p/n F960
Auto Zone, Distributor Cap, $20.99, p/n F2104G
Auto Zone, Rotor, $3.99, p/n F953
Auto Zone, Plug Wires, Motorcraft p/n WR4050
(Comes with both types of coil wires, E-core coils are NOT recommended with stock ignition modules.)

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YOU DO NOT HAVE TO CHANGE COILS!

The Factory canister coils is perfectly fine for 99% of the I-6 engines this is going to be used on,
And if you switch coils,
I suggest you use an MSD Blaster 2F, p/n 8205

Fits right in your stock bracket, connects directly to your factory harness and works better than the orignal from the factory.

Keep in mind that most of you have a 25+ year old coil in your vehicles!
This might be a good time to retire it for something a little better and a BUNCH NEWER!
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Decide on CANISTER COIL or E-core coil.


MY Suggestion is to use your FACTORY STYLE COIL

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD-8205&N=700+115&autoview=sku

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO CHANGE COILS OR BUY A NEW COIL.

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Some people upgrade to an MSD factory style coil (Blaster 2F)
OR,
They use a Ford E-core coil, or an MSD E-core coil.
(Ford, junk yard for about $5. Don't forget to get the coil bracket and coil electrical connector plug if you do!
MSD coil p/n 8227

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD-8227&N=700+115&autoview=sku

If you buy a new coil, you will need to fabricate a bracket,
AND,
You will need to purchase a coil connector,
NAPA p/n ICC1, $15.

PLUG WIRES,
Factory Ignition Coil, Autolite p/n 96171

E-core coil, Autolite p/n 96624

NEW PREMIUM PLUGS FOR YOUR YEAR/ENGINE.
All years are different, so I can't give specific part numbers for all variations, altitudes, ect.

Suggestion is to use Autolite or Denso, and gap to 0.045" regardless of the engine you have or what the book says.

Tube of 'Never-Seize'.

Tube of 'Tune Up Grease' (Dielectric Grease)

Tube of Butyl or Silicone caulking, or Weather Strip Adhesive (optional).

TOOLS.
One medium sized flat blade screwdriver,
One medium sized (#2 Phillips) cross screw driver,
One plug socket and drive tool,
Plug gap checker,
Needle nose pliers.

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This is about what your 'PIG' should look like...



TAKE NOTE of where the #1 (front) cylinder plug wire is located on the cap, and then mark that location on the distributor base...
(so you can find it again with the new cap!)
This is showing me marking the distributor cap #1 terminal, but you need to MARK THE DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING, not the cap like I'm showing...



(My mark on the distributor HOUSING wouldn't show up in pictures, so we marked the cap to illustrate that you need to know where #1 plug wires terminal is located RIGHT NOW!)

*IF*, and this is a BIG *IF*...
Your distributor is installed correctly, your #1 terminal mark will be on the housing where the rotor is now pointing. (your rotor will likely be pointing someplace else, but I have this one turned to point at where the #1 plug wire terminal MARK should be for illustration purposes.)



Start with the DISTRIBUTOR CAP ADAPTER...
That would be the GRAY THING on the RIGHT in this picture...



I often put some 'butyl' or 'silicone' sealer on the bottom edge of the adapter before it screw it down to the distributor.
This helps keep A BUNCH of water out of the distributor.
Your ignition distributor won't by any means be 'Water Proof', but it WILL help keep a large source of water in the distributor OUT!

Since the adapter doesn't have to be removed very often, you can 'Glue' it down with 'Weather Strip Adhesive' if you want to keep a BUNCH of water out!

I DO NOT use the blue 'RTV' sealer or 'Form-A-Gasket'
, since they off gas a LOT of acids while curing... ACIDS & Electronics don't get alone well!
....................

Here is what the adapter and new rotor look like installed...
Put a 'Dab' of 'Tune Up Grease' on the rotor NOSE. Just a little 'dab'.
'Tune Up Grease', or Dielectric grease IS NOT never sizes or caulking/sealer!



Once adapter and rotor are installed, slap the cap on the adapter...
DO NOT forget to put some 'tune up' grease in the groove on the UNDERSIDE of the distributor cap!
(In the groove only.)
This will seal the cap to the adapter and keep one source of water out of the distributor, but still allow you to get the cap off at any time.



Now, with distributor 'Tune Up' parts in place,
You are ready to do the plugs...

Make sure they are properly gapped,
DO NOT Pry on the center electrode to gap them!
DO NOT bang on the 'Ground' electrode to close up the gap!
Modern 'Resistor' plugs are VERY SENSITIVE!
Use a pair of NEEDLE NOSE pliers to bend the 'Ground' electrode instead of PRYING on the center electrode! That's the WORST thing you can do to a spark plug (Prying on the center electrode or 'Tapping' the gap closed!)

They have a 'Carbon Pile' resistor inside the insulator, and if you break that very fragile carbon, 1/6 of your horsepower and torque goes right out the window!



IF YOU DROP A PLUG ON THE GROUND, REPLACE IT!
I can't stress this enough!
This is probably the #1 reason for 'Loss Of Power' or 'Poor Economy' complaints after a 'Tune Up'!
People just don't realize how fragile the plugs are!

You don't need a ton of 'Never Seize' on the threads, but you DO need to use it (Copper if you can find it, but zinc is OK if you can't turn it up easily or Copper is too expensive for your project)

PLUG WIRE TIME,
Use AT LEAST Autolite brand plug wires!
The cheap 'Store Brands' or 'Private Label' brands are CRAP!



MSD wires are without question the best wires on the market, but they are $65+ !!!
For a low revving I-6 engine, the Autolite wires should do you fine.

Use a 'Q-Tip' and put a little dab of dielectric grease (Tune Up grease) in each end of each plug boot.
(If you use factory coil, DO NOT grease the coil end of the coil wire, everything with a 'Spark Plug' terminal gets it!)

This will help keep the water from your connections, and that will keep the ignition from grounding out, and it will keep the terminals from corroding.
The grease also keeps the boots from drying out and cracking.

NOW, If you take a CLOSE LOOK, you will see I mark the FIRING ORDER, starting with the #1 plug wire position, on the cap.
this makes things A LOT MORE SIMPLE! (Old racing trick!)



AMC I-6 FIRING ORDER... 1-5-3-6-2-4 CLOCK WISE!
Cylinders are numbered 1-2-3-4-5-6 Front To Back.

SOMETIMES, when I'm doing this upgrade,
I notice the factory coil connector has seen MUCH better days!
The terminals in the connector are shot, the wires are about broke off the terminals from vibration and corrosion, and it's generally in BAD SHAPE!



These are cheap (around $7) and available from Auto Zone or NAPA.
This one is from Auto Zone...
EASY TO INSTALL, clip the wires to the old one, and use crimp connectors with heat shrink tubing to seal up the splice, and you are DONE!

BAD COIL CONNECTOR is a VERY COMMON PROBLEM, and the cause of that mystery 'No Start' or mystery 'Shut Off' problem so many people experience,
BUT,
Since it's an INTERMITTENT problem, it's VERY hard to trace!
.............................................

Unless you changed the coil to an 'E-core', you are DONE!
That's all there is to it! A simple ignition 'Tune Up' but using PREMIUM PARTS!
..............................................

*IF*, you did change the coil to an 'E-core', you will need a new coil connector.
Clip the wires going to the factory coil connector,
Match up the wires to the E-core coil connector, RED TO RED, Green To Green.

Don't forget mount the coil!
(Yes, I've got every thing done, and test drove, just to get back and find the coil hanging by the wires!)
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WHY YOU ARE DOING THIS UPGRADE, AND WHAT IT'S DOING FOR YOU...

The small cap and short rotor from the factory allow the SPARK ENERGY to bounce around inside the distributor cap like crazy!
If you ever cut a hole in the distributor cap, and run the engine at night so you can see it, those small caps look like a fireworks display!

The spark energy jumping from the coil terminal to the distributor housing is called a 'Ground Fire'.
This means one of your cylinders, 1/3 of the power for that engine revolution, went right out the exhaust pipe without ever contributing!

Using the TALLER ROTOR lifts the spark energy up, away from the housing and distributor shaft, virtually ELIMINATING the ground fire problem.

In fact, you can actually feed MORE spark energy through the taller rotor without fear of ground fires!
It's FREE ENERGY going to your spark plugs instead of going to ground fires where it does you NO good!
.............................

The spark energy jumping to the WRONG terminal at the very least is 1/3 of the power for the RPM going out the exhaust....
IF YOU ARE LUCKY!

You see, if that spark jumped to a cylinder that was on the EXHAUST STROKE, the spark was wasted, and didn't fire the cylinder it was supposed to...

BUT...
IF that spark fires the cylinder AHEAD of the one it's supposed to,
It's firing the cylinder 120° TOO SOON in the firing order!

Think about that for a minute...

3° or 4° too much timing can cause detonation in your engine,
But people ROUTINELY allow 120° TOO MUCH TIMING ADVANCE without doing ANYTHING ABOUT IT!

That's like hitting the piston with a SLEDGE HAMMER and can break pistons, break valves, ruin rods and bearings, and a HOST of other things you don't even want to know about!

The WIDER cap spreads the terminals farther apart, making the CORRECT plug wire terminal the more attractive for the spark energy to jump to!
.............................
 
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#241 ·
Good to hear you are up and running, and happy with it.

Now, if I could just get it to pay something! :brickwall
 
#244 ·
It was a joke man!
Wasn't serious about money, If I were, I would have marketed this 10 years ago!
 
#247 ·
I just bought my 83 CJ7, was sitting somewhere for 10 years or so undriven and I'm just getting around to replacing/removing all of the fluids and things that have been sitting in, on, under, and around it. I plan on heading over to Advance tonight to pick up the parts and attempt the upgrade this weekend.

I have read all 17 pages, but the one thing that is causing me some hesitation is timing. Yes, I know about the 8 degrees +-2, but I am functioning at a much lower level than that. I have no clue how to time an engine, don't own a light, and don't want to pay a mechanic to listen to why I put a ford setup on a jeep and ended up with a piston sticking out of the side of my block because I accidentally turned the distributor base when I put the whole thing on.

Is this really as simple as it sounds? Mark #1 location on dist, pop off cap, put on adapter,, rotor, cap (indexed), new wires, plugs, and the whole thing should be timed the same? I do have a warm start issue that pops up occasionally, but other than that it runs fine.

I'd like to get a bit more power out of it (has column shift auto, Torqueflite of some sort) as it drops 5-10 mph going up moderate hills at 45-55 mph. The worst part about it is that it gets a whopping 8 mpg. No goofy lift, tires are 31x10.50x15, partially or fully nuttered (carb has electric socket and nothing is plugged in, EGR disconnected, O2 sensor disconnected). I expected it to be low, but I figured I'd ease into 8 mpg with a larger engine, different cam, and a fancy flame thrower out the tail pipe.
 
#248 ·
I am in the same boat. I got an '83 that had sit for 9 years. Mine gets about 9 miles per gallon. I am almost done with my MC2150 upgrade though and will do the nutter this weekend. I am hoping that I get get at leastup to 12 miles per gallon. I have also be hesitant about trying this team rush upgrade becasue I am very new to working on cars and just like you don't want to mess anything up.
 
#250 ·
Well, I hemmed and hawed over what I could screw up by doing this and decided to just go ahead and give it a go.

I had to go to all three stores (advance, napa, and auto zone) just to get all of the parts needed. I used JeepHammer's advice and went in stating that I was looking for the F-150 300 I-6 parts and the reps at each store all started raising eyebrows.

"Didn't you drive in here in a CJ?"
"Yep. Just looking fo those parts, thanks."
"This won't fit on a CJ. You have an AMC engine."
"Thanks. Let's just pretend that I drove here in an F-150."
"Well, we have this part, but not that part."

And on I went to the other stores with essentially the same reactions. Napa was the best, though. I came in, asked for the cap adapter part and the rep just laughed at me. "Team Rush?" he said. "Yep." He had just done his 84 CJ-7 a few weeks ago.

It took me a grand total of about 20 minutes start to finish to do the swap (I went with adapter, rotor, cap, gapped plugs and wires for now, will consider more in the future). Most of the time was spent on pulling old plugs and gapping the new ones.

I started it up and it turned over immediately. I took it for a spin around the block and noticed that much of the previous bog I was accustomed to had disappeared. Unfortunately I also noticed that my rear driver's side axle seal decided to blow out. Wife is going to kill me - she never thought that I would be staining the driveway as much as I have in the first month of ownership.

I'm about to take the jeep on my first real voyage since purchasing - headed down to the beach for the weekend to do some fishing and beach driving. Hopefully the 8mpg will creep a bit higher after the upgrade.
 
#251 ·
IF YOU DON'T FEEL COMFORTABLE WITH THIS, THEN BY ALL MEANS,
DO NOT DO IT!


You can always make friends with someone in the area that will help you,
You can make friends with guys at Jeep events that will help you,
You can hire an older mechanic that knows about distributors to do this for you...

But if you aren't comfortable with a simple change out of old parts for new,
Then DO NOT ATTEMPT IT BY YOURSELF!

I'm not being insulting, I'm not trying to over simplify this, and I understand some people just don't have the 'Greasy Fingernails' Gene...
I have a friend that can play guitar like the wind, write computer code like typing English in five different computer languages,
But he can't change a flat tire on his own without screwing it up.

Evey one has strengths and weaknesses, and you need to respect your limitations.
----------------------------------



I do want you to know this is as easy as flipping the old distributor cap up off the distributor.

DO NOT take the distributor cap/plug wires off the engine!
Just LOOSEN the distributor cap from the distributor, flip it up away from the distributor so you can install new parts!


Leave them in place to show you were to put the new wires if you have never done this before.

Take off the old Rotor.


Install the cap adapter on the distributor. 2 screws.



Install the rotor on the distributor shaft. It pushes on with your finger, no screws.


Install the new distributor cap on the adapter.


Install new plug wires one at a time, front to rear, and make sure the new wires get pushed onto the plug and new cap.
Use the old distributor cap/plug wires for reference to firing order as they go on.

Plug in the ignition coil to the distributor cap (Coil Wire)


Fire engine back up and see how it runs.

It's just direct replacment of current parts that requires a single screwdriver to accomplish.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

The only 'Issues' I've seen 'Rookies' screw up is,

1. Not getting the adapter on correctly and screw holes not lining up...
Since there is only TWO positions the adapter will go on, most guys try it BOTH WAYS to see which fits best... Which is exactly what they should do.

2. Not pushing the rotor all the way down on the distributor shaft,
Or misaligning the alignment tooth.
The tooth is built a little wide for a reason, so it fits TIGHT in the metal slot on the distributor shaft...
So you need to PRESS it into place with your thumb the first time so it shaves some of the plastic and fits TIGHT on the shaft.

3. By far, the most common is screwing up the firing order!
That's negated by diagrams I posted if your distributor as the vacuum advance nipple pointing at the front of the engine (Like in the picture)



OR,
If your distributor DOES NOT have the vacuum advance pointing at the front of the engine,
Using the old firing order for #1 as the starting point, and putting the new plug wires on like the old ones were...

Then go back, ONE PLUG WIRE AT A TIME, And replace the plugs.
That is the EASY way to make sure your firing order is 'Correct' even if the distributor isn't set in the engine correctly (With vacuumed nipple pointing at the front of the engine.)
 
#252 · (Edited)
Ignition Masters-

I've got a question for you. I'm looking at doing the team rush upgrade, and I'm also looking at upgrading to CDI at this point. If I'm not mistaken, however, this essentially eliminates the MCU from the system (looking at the wiring diagrams). I've been pointed to a number of threads about timing post-nutter bypass (which would have the same problem) and it looks like a PITA.

What do you think about using MSD CDI that accepts a timing controller?

Edit: Hell, I suppose it would better to just replace the distributor with the MSD one that isn't designed for computer controlled advance.
 
#253 ·
JUST A NOTE:

My CJ (258) started to run rough and I noticed some blow-by but anyway while I was looking and moving some things my hand hit the COIL wire from Summit and the RED ADAPTER moved. The RED adapter in the STOCK coil was loose. When you install this from Summit you have to unscrew the top terminal some so it will go into the STOCK coil. Then tighten it up. I used my lineman plyers the first time. So I tightened it up again, put the coil wire back on and she purrrs fine.

Just wanted to let you all know what I ran into.

Jim
 
#254 · (Edited)
#255 ·
#258 ·
Many Thanks!!

I just got my first Jeep a month ago and am having a good time working on it. I just wanted to say thanks to this forum for the wealth of knowledge available. Anyhow, I did the team Rush upgrade along with the Nutter bypass and man o man what a difference! A buddy of mine who has been Jeeping for decades couldn't believe how smooth the engine idled. He was amazed. I want to point out that the wires coming out of the ignition module were a different color than shown here but I just ran two new ones from there up to the firewall anyways. My plastic harness cover just shattered when I removed it so I just used some 1-1/4" sump pump discharge hose and it worked great. Again, thanks to all those who shared this really valuable info.
 
#259 ·
rush question?

Am I to understand that with the I-6 258 a new coil isn't necessary? If so please let me know, I did the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires and don't see too much difference. I do think my Carter BBD needs a rebuild though...Will I see a difference with a new coil? If so, what kind of coil would be sufficient? I'd like to not have to fabricate much, so a canister coil would be optimal...

Thanks,
Phil
 
#261 ·
YOU DO NOT have to change the coil on any version of the 'TeamRush' upgrade!

If you have a V-8 engine, your engine will APPRECIATE the E-core coil, but it's NOT Mandatory.

The 'TeamRush' upgrade is a MODULAR design, so you can leave any part stock, or upgrade any part as you go!
Once the cap adapter, cap, rotor, plug wires & plugs are in place, you can pick and choose what you want to upgrade after that initial install.
---------------------------------------

With the low RPM of the I-6 engines, the factory 'Canister' coil will work fine.

If you want to upgrade either version ('78 to '86 CJ's) the go with the MSD p/n 8205 Canister coil for direct replacment of the factory coil with a better quality.
-----------------------------------------

In V-8 engines,
OR,
IF YOU CHANGE THE MODULE TO HEI STYLE,
WITH V-8 or I-6...

You would be better off with the E-core coil.
The HEI style module was designed for use with the E-core style coils and it will get along great with the HEI style module.
-----------------------------------------

IF YOU GO WITH A CDI MODULE,
It doesn't matter which coil you use!
The CDI module will make about any coil you use put out currents you can nearly weld with, so it doesn't matter which coil you use. (just don't use a resistor with a CDI module!)
-------------------------------------

The only WARNING here is,
Factory 30 year old DuraSpark modules DO NOT LIKE the E-core coils,
And the aftermarket DuraSpark 'Replacements' are mostly Imported Junk.

You *MAY* Have module failure if you switch to an E-core coil with a factory style module,
That's why I recommend using the MSD p/n 8205 'Canister' coil with them.

You really don't gain a whole lot using an E-core coil on an I-6 engine because the RPM's are kept so low and the factory style 'Canister' coil can keep up.

With V-8 engines, it's a different story...
The coil fires more often, and it fires faster (higher RPM's) so the E-core coil is a good idea, but the module often suffers.
DON'T BUY CHEAP MODULES WITH AN E-CORE COIL!

E-core coil on the LEFT, CANISTER coil on the RIGHT...

 
#262 ·
JH,

I've Nuttered my '84 and am collecting the parts to do the TR upgrade. My rig hard-starts cold, idles fine (with an occasional hiccup) and starts warm fine but lacks power on the road (4th/5th gear). Carb is a Weber. Thought TR is a good place to start.

My question is: The vacuum advance port on the distributor in your photos is actually pointing at the front of the engine. Mine is pretty much parallel with the engine. Is my distributor off by a tooth? If it is, in your write up to correct the positioning, you mention "two rotations" of the engine. Do you mean 720* of crankshaft rotation or two "rotations" of the number one piston (first being the exhaust stroke and the second being the next compression stroke)?

Thanks for your time. Sharing info like the TR upgrade is what makes forums like this so helpful!
 
#265 ·
My question is: The vacuum advance port on the distributor in your photos is actually pointing at the front of the engine.

Mine is pretty much parallel with the engine. Is my distributor off by a tooth?
Not on an '84 engine.
If you take control of the spark from the timing computer, you will have to reset the distributor,
but if you still have the timing computer hooked up, you are fine.

If it is, in your write up to correct the positioning, you mention "two rotations" of the engine. Do you mean 720* of crankshaft rotation or two "rotations" of the number one piston (first being the exhaust stroke and the second being the next compression stroke)?
Correct.

First half turn of the engine is the 'Intake' stroke, piston moving DOWN with intake valve open.
Intake valve closes at the bottom...

The next half turn of the engine is 'Compression' stroke, piston moving UP with valves closed so the fuel/air (Charge) mixture gets compressed for more energy when it's ignited.

When the piston reaches the top, the spark plug fires, igniting the charge mixture and the resulting heat/pressure forces the piston down in the 'Power' stroke...

The next half turn of the engine is 'Power' stroke, Piston moving DOWN again under pressure,

The next half turn of the engine is 'Exhaust' stroke, Piston moving UP again,
When the piston reaches the bottom of the 'Power' stroke, the exhaust valve opens, and crankshaft momentum forces the piston back up and pushes out the exhaust gasses.

At the top of 'Exhaust', the exhaust valve CLOSES,
And the intake valve OPENS, and the process starts again on momentum built up by the crank during the 'Power' stroke.

(Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow... Repeat)
That's why it's called a '4 Cycle' engine.

The crankshaft turns TWICE (720°) for every ONE rotation (360°) rotation of the camshaft/distributor.
That's why the camshaft sprocket is twice the size of the crank sprocket.

Each cylinder only fires ONCE for every two revolutions of the crankshaft, and that is the reason why so many people get the distributor in 180 Degrees out from engine cycle.

They rely on the timing mark on the balancer which crosses the 0 (zero) point TWICE in every firing cycle,
And they mistake top of EXHAUST stroke for the top of COMPRESSION stroke.

That's why you MUST find COMPRESSION STROKE before you do anything when checking your ignition!
Once you locate compression stroke, then you can rotate the engine by hand,
Using a soft (NO METAL) probe in the #1 spark plug hole feeling for the piston to come fully 'UP',
This will be COMPRESSION STROKE, and the piston will be a TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC).

Then, and ONLY THEN can you have a look at the balancer timing mark and see if it lines up with the '0' (zero) mark on the timing scale.

This will VERIFY the balancer outer ring is correct,
Or it will show you the balancer needs replaced.

Once you find TDC of COMPRESSION STROKE,
Then you can set the distributor on the camshaft,
With rotor pointing at #1 spark plug terminal on the cap,
And VERIFY the distributor is correctly set on the camshaft.

By turning the engine TWO TIMES, you will seat the oil pump shaft in the bottom of the distributor,
And you will bring the engine back around to TDC of COMPRESSION again.

If you stop at ONE turn, the distributor will be pointing at #6 plug wire, and the crank shaft/camshaft will be at the top of EXHAUST STROKE, not compression stroke.

Does that help clear it up?
 
#263 · (Edited)
JeepHammer,

I live in South America, spent 3 hours this morning in about 25 different places looking for and asking about Dielectric Grease. Everyone has heard of it, no one has it. This afternoon I put on all the TeamRush parts that I had brought here from the states after Christmas. Except for Dielectric Grease and Never Sieze. What can I use as a substitute or is nothing at all better than putting on a cheap substitute like vaseline or regular grease?
 
#264 ·
JeepHammer,

I live in South America, spent 3 hours this morning in about 25 different places looking for and asking about Dielectric Grease. Everyone has heard of it, no one has it. This afternoon I put on all the TeamRush parts that I had brought here from the states after Christmas. Except for Dielectric Grease and Never Sieze. What can I use as a substitute or is nothing at all better than putting on a cheap substitute like vaseline or regular grease?
If you can find 'Food Safe Grease' for food service equipment,
Or SCUBA gear, it will be a silicone based grease and will work great.

Scuba shops sell little containers of silicone grease for the 'O' rings & valves in SCUBA equipment, but it's EXPENSIVE when you buy it like that.
Same as silicone food service grease, just packaged in smaller containers.

Vasoline for dielectric grease, but don't use it on the rotor nose.
Vasoline will degrade the plug boots over time, but if it's all you have...
Vasoline will liquefy when it gets hot, so if you can find silicone grease, you are better off with it.

Graphite laced grease for Never-Seize.
You can't use that anywhere but the spark plugs since the graphite will cause spark/current to jump everywhere if you use it in the cap or on plug boots.
You want to delver the spark to the plugs, not everything between coil and head!
 
#266 ·
Thanks Hammer, I was reading over the packing materials, looks like the autolite premium boots came pre-lubed with dielectric grease. It said not to stick them in your mouth. So hopefully that's a start. I'll work on the graphite based grease for the plugs.

Thanks again, driving home I was trying to imagine that the tune up had made a big difference and then said, let's be honest, I can't tell. UNTIL I made the turn and started going up the steep hill to my apartment and it just scooted right up in second gear...can definitely tell the difference. THANKS!
 
#267 ·
JeepHammer,

After the upgrade my mpg is up 25%! BUT, my voltmeter was reading high so I checked the alternator. It is putting out over 15.6 Volts! Is there any way this could be related to the upgrade or is this a coincidence that in a 27 year old jeep, alternator regulators tend to go out?

I plan on replacing the regulator tomorrow, but don't know if there is a bigger problem that is going to keep causing this.
 
#268 ·
JeepHammer,

After the upgrade my mpg is up 25%! BUT, my voltmeter was reading high so I checked the alternator. It is putting out over 15.6 Volts! Is there any way this could be related to the upgrade or is this a coincidence that in a 27 year old jeep, alternator regulators tend to go out?

I plan on replacing the regulator tomorrow, but don't know if there is a bigger problem that is going to keep causing this.
This seems like a troll post!

NO, a cap, rotor & plug wires WILL NOT effect your alternator in any way!

Take your vehicle to the local discount parts store and have them do a FREE diagnostic on battery, alternator & starter.
They will tell you EXACTLY what part is causing the problem.

Or you can take the alternator off and take it in, they can test it for free and tell you if it's working correctly.

If your MPG is up 25%, then you had something REALLY WRONG with your old cap or rotor or plug wires/plugs!
 
#270 ·
I have this issue as well and has caused my rig to run a little off. Every once in a while the voltage will come down to around 14 and the jeep runs very smooth. Let us know what you find. I suspected my regulator as well but the autozone guy tested it and it was checking good. I'm lost at what else I can do.
Phil
 
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