I-6 'TeamRush Upgrade' (definitive) - Page 6 - JeepForum.com

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post #76 of 730 Old 02-14-2009, 06:43 PM
HeepToJeep
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Excellent write-up, tech info worth its weight in gold....one could only wish all topics were covered so in-depth.

Wm

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post #77 of 730 Old 02-15-2009, 08:37 PM
Bubba Ray
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Just drove my Jeep after the upgrade. A real improvement that you could feel. Much smoother now.Well worth the time and $'s.
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post #78 of 730 Old 02-15-2009, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intruder700 View Post
Some emissions information.
Last week I had my jeep smogged and failed so I have a free retest. I did the "team rush" upgrade during the week and have not driven at all.
Here are the results.

................RPM...CO2%....02%....HC ppm.....CO%....NO ppm
Before TR
15mph ...1429...11.5.....4.4.....86...........0.04...... .1598.....
25mph ...2201...13.6.....1.4.....70...........0.31...... ..954.....
After TR
15mph...1449...11.64....4.4.....67...........0.04. .......1879
25mph...1434....11.5.....4.7.....54...........0.03 ........1606


This is not scientific by any stretch of the imagination. It was two different Techs, and two separate instruments. The 2nd tech let my jeep idle for about 35 minutes before he ran the sniffer. You can also see from the RPM's that he dogged it to much. Not to mention I only have the belt driven fan so the engine must have been hot as hell he had the bay door closed and no fan on it.

All that said there was a 23% decrease in both the HC and the CO. I blame the high NOx levels on the idiot tech.
This tests where performed under load on a dyno for California emissions.

It is my understanding that "Team Rush" comes into play more at higher RPM's. On the freeway I was able to stay in 5th gear on hills that make me downshift.
Excellent upgrade, Thank you Hammer.
Actually, this isn't surprising at all.
Pretty much standard for the guys that do this upgrade to PASS emissions!
(Remember, pour some 'emissions juice' in the tank before you go, that will help too!)

Getting the CORRECT cylinder lit.
And getting a CORRECT Ignition/Burn in that cylinder makes a HUGE difference!

The reduction in hydrocarbons in the exhaust was from ALL cylinders getting fired at the correct time, and a more complete burn when they ignite.,

Nothing like burning ALL the fuel you can when it gets into the cylinder!
If you are pumping it through, might as well burn as much of it as you can while it's there!
Just too expensive to waste these days!

Glad to hear it helped you out!

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post #79 of 730 Old 02-16-2009, 03:07 AM
LibertyJeeper
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Now if you could just walk me through passing the high NOx.
I think it has to do with low RPMs due to large tires not creating enough vaccume or something

Last edited by LibertyJeeper; 02-16-2009 at 03:07 AM. Reason: drunk
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post #80 of 730 Old 02-16-2009, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intruder700 View Post
Now if you could just walk me through passing the high NOx.
I think it has to do with low RPMs due to large tires not creating enough vaccume or something
I was kind of wondering, the RPM seemd VERY low...
Maybe stock tires for the test?
Alcohol in the fuel tank?

They make that fuel additive to get you past the Emissions tests and most people say it works...

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post #81 of 730 Old 02-16-2009, 08:53 AM
twoleos617
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Im going to dig into this upgrade soon and have a question about spark plugs. I use E3 plugs in all my other vehicles and have been MORE than pleased with them. Now, they are $7 ea. but seem to be worth every penny. With the TR upgrade being so phenominal, is it worth going with such expensive plugs? I have seen better response and power in my other vehicles and everyone here says that the TR shows the same kind of results with less expensive plugs. I dont want to do this upgrade and then cheap-out on lesser plugs and be stepping on my own toes. thoughts?

Last edited by twoleos617; 02-16-2009 at 10:09 AM.
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post #82 of 730 Old 02-17-2009, 02:12 PM
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Ok, Done! For the record, I, too, couldn't get my hands on the Blue Streak package (Dang ol' Parts America)...so I went with the premium dist cap and rotor + dist adapter off of an 82' F-150 with the 300 cid I6...all through NAPA. I did get the Autolite premium plugwire set and stuck with the coppr Autolite plugs. Also, I opted to drop in the Accel 40,000 volt coil, since it was all there.

I performed to Nutter bypass first, then upgraded the rest. Would you believe...I never even took my timing light out of the package?! Literally, I simply marked the old dist base, then fitted the new one on, and had my wife crank it. It started right up (after NOT starting for 2 weeks), and purred like a kitten. The biggest change I've noticed so far, is the consistency in the way ti runs. No coughing, etc...just a nice, tuned run. I couldn't believe the timing matched up like that. As JH had to "hammer" into my head on a few PM's...READ THE ARTICLE. Pays to just read it and get it, then apply it.

Thanks JeepHammer.

"... God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us." Rom 5:8 (NIV)

/l , [____],
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post #83 of 730 Old 02-17-2009, 04:50 PM
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Toby,

You still need to adj your time, the better spark performance might make a degree or two difference. Beter perfromance and better spark most likely means you need to vary the time and see what is best and write it down for ref next time. I maked my scale with a white line too.


Intruder,
Sorry you failed test. You posted did not pass the emissions. The TeamRush does help with a better running. Might want to try a treatment of SeaFoam down the carb. Get engine warm and pour slowly down carb and then stall using about 1/2 can keeping it running till stall. Crusty Deposits on valves, seats, and combustion area can build up and hold fuel and not combust. This thermal shock and chemical reaction blows this out the exhaust when you start it up again. It will blow a lot of smoke so do when area is quite and outside. Take for spin and do it again.

Rather than not use the CJ after the TeamRush the better combustion HWY running may help clean up the combustion area.

SeaFoam in the gas after or another high quality fuel cleaner. Maybe after this then see if a tester will test on the side since you are having trouble, pay him extra just for a test. Maybe. Its an idea.

The last idea cold fronts and warm fronts change the Atmospheric pressure some. A cooler day with dry conditions HIGH PRESSURE will have more O2 in the air. It has more pressure and more O2 avail for the combustion process. It will also have more Nitrogen too air. So might be better to go the other way. I think overall more O2 will help with a cleaner comubustion reading. See what JeepHammer say too. I would try and find the additive he is talking about too. Also should tweek your advance after the teamrush and see what runs best. 1-2 degree more advance might help with the readings too.

Very very very glad I do not have to test like Calf.
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post #84 of 730 Old 02-17-2009, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intruder700 View Post
Now if you could just walk me through passing the high NOx.
I think it has to do with low RPMs due to large tires not creating enough vaccume or something
Your high NOx is due to very high combustion temperatures.

The EGR valve recirculates a portion of spent exhaust gasses back into the cylinders and mixes the incoming air with recirculated exhaust gas which dilutes the mix with inert gas, lowering the combustion temperature since there is a lack of oxygen within the spent exhaust gas.

You might want to check the functionality of your EGR system.
Check for a bad EGR valve, clogged ports, vacuum lines and correct routing.

Last edited by LT1CJ7; 02-17-2009 at 05:21 PM. Reason: .
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post #85 of 730 Old 02-17-2009, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
Im going to dig into this upgrade soon and have a question about spark plugs. I use E3 plugs in all my other vehicles and have been MORE than pleased with them. Now, they are $7 ea. but seem to be worth every penny. With the TR upgrade being so phenominal, is it worth going with such expensive plugs? I have seen better response and power in my other vehicles and everyone here says that the TR shows the same kind of results with less expensive plugs. I dont want to do this upgrade and then cheap-out on lesser plugs and be stepping on my own toes. thoughts?
I have had most of the 'Trick' plugs on the dyno, and I can't recommend ANY of them.

The best consistency we got from spark plugs was 'Denso', as in 'Nippon-Denso' and they worked GREAT just gapped and installed.
The longevity wasn't so good, but for a race or two, they worked GREAT.

The ones that did a very close second best on the dyno, and did MUCH BETTER in longevity was Autolite brand.
Just the plain old resistor plugs you get for anywhere from 0.99 to $1.50 each.

The WORST plugs we used were those 'Split Fire' things.
More of them were broken out of the box than any other plugs we used in these engines!
We simply had to get 12 to find 8 good ones!

AC/Delco plugs were pretty bad, and VERY FRAGILE.
Pry on the center electrode to gap an AC/Delco plug, and I will GUARANTEE it's broken internally!

NON scientific testing I think the premium Autolite plugs (platinum, iridium or some other such nonsense) seem to work pretty good.
I'm on my second season with them and I can't detect any real problems, but I haven't put them on a "Scope" to see how they are doing...

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post #86 of 730 Old 02-17-2009, 09:33 PM
OCDWheeler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neals80 View Post
Jeep Hammer this pic was done before I Teamrushed my I6 followed your website info to the word and it took 30 min...I rep ( my job) Bostik sealants who owns the real Never SEEZE..so I used that as well as an extra ground off the Ign Module....My question is where 1 cylinder is located....almost 180 out...the PO recently installed a new Long Block and moved the Dist......It runs great where it is...Your thoughts and Thank You again for all your help and knowledge that is very simple to understand....

JH,
My distributor is the same as Neals in the picture.....I saw your response to fix the orientation.....My question - Is there any difference in how it'll run whether 3 holes out like Neals or oriented to like you describe in your response? As well as being oriented differently, the "1" on the dizzy cap isnt at the 1 wire but more like where the "6" plug wire connects.....not that it matters....or does it....?

Thanks for the help.....really "user friendly" information.

Edit: btw - my timing is 8degrees BTDC at idle/plugged and almost goes up out of sight at 1600....

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'65 FJ40
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post #87 of 730 Old 02-17-2009, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LT1CJ7 View Post
Your high NOx is due to very high combustion temperatures.

The EGR valve recirculates a portion of spent exhaust gasses back into the cylinders and mixes the incoming air with recirculated exhaust gas which dilutes the mix with inert gas, lowering the combustion temperature since there is a lack of oxygen within the spent exhaust gas.

You might want to check the functionality of your EGR system.
Check for a bad EGR valve, clogged ports, vacuum lines and correct routing.
Could also be overly advanced timing or too lean a carb fuel mixture...

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post #88 of 730 Old 02-17-2009, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OCDWheeler View Post
JH,
My distributor is the same as Neals in the picture.....I saw your response to fix the orientation.....My question - Is there any difference in how it'll run whether 3 holes out like Neals or oriented to like you describe in your response? As well as being oriented differently, the "1" on the dizzy cap isnt at the 1 wire but more like where the "6" plug wire connects.....not that it matters....or does it....?

Thanks for the help.....really "user friendly" information.

Edit: btw - my timing is 8degrees BTDC at idle/plugged and almost goes up out of sight at 1600....
The 1,600 RPM idle is for the guys running a timing computer,
If you have done the 'Nutter Bypass', or done one of the other stand alone ignitions, you are going to get WAY ADVANCED timing at 1,600 RPM.

There isn't anything 'Wrong' with running the firing order off three holes...

It's just that it's not 'Right' or 'Correct', and if you run into someone like me working on things,
I'm going to wonder what else is screwed up if the guy working on your jeep can't get something as simple as setting a distributor correct...

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post #89 of 730 Old 02-17-2009, 10:04 PM
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OK....I'm going to move it...just wanted to know....My OCD nature wouldnt allow it to be "incorrect"....lol...I'm afraid the PO has given me plenty of things to "get educated" on....

The Nutter Bypass wouldnt apply on my 82 would it? I researched it as well as the teamrush and ruled it out thinking it didnt apply to my 82.....

So I'm fine timing at 8+/- at idle/plugged and i don't need to worry about checking timing at higher rpm?

Thanks again....Just trying to get everything in order while I'm doing the Teamrush upgrade...

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post #90 of 730 Old 02-18-2009, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
Could also be overly advanced timing or too lean a carb fuel mixture...
Possible, but unlikely.
First, it's not running lean, Look at the HC & CO.
Second, If it were that far advanced, The HC & CO count would be way higher.
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