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Unread 02-08-2009, 03:01 PM   #61
Bubba Ray
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 1,663
[I] am a little scared to ask, but do I have the correct cap adapter? Part is FA139 from Napa. It leaves some gaps at the dizzy that look wrong.

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Unread 02-08-2009, 03:54 PM   #62
Bubba Ray
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Location: SC
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Nevermind.
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Unread 02-09-2009, 09:06 AM   #63
JeepHammer
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 10,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by genghisman View Post
I'm currently running a HEI distributor installed by the previous owner, should I just toss it and go with this?
NO.

The entire idea of 'Jeeping' is working with what you have!
Since you have an HEI now, work WITH it...

If you decide you want to increase your spark energy by 500% or more, then consider going back to a stock type Jeep/Motorcraft distributor and adding a CDI module.
---------------------

The Things I would do with a HEI or HEI clone immedately is...

1. Switch to a PREMIUM cap with REAL BRASS TERMINALS,
Not 'Brass Washed' aluminum terminals.
(The latest trick of the 'Importers')
Make sure it's some 'Color' and NOT BLACK!
Black caps are usually conductive and cause problems!

2. Make sure the coil GROUNDING STRAP is in place in the distributor cap coil well!
Virtually all of the 'Clones' and a lot of the 'Rebuilds' don't have the ground strap anymore, and it is NECESSARY!

3. Make sure you have the correct SCREWS for the coil you are using!
There were TWO coils used, and one has longer screws,
and If you use it with the 'Small' coil, the screws will crack the cap, stick out INSIDE the distributor cap, and make great grounds for your spark energy!

4. Use a PREMIUM center button in the distirbutor cap.
Most come with hard graphite or worse yet, compressed carbon black buttons which spread conductive dust EVERYWHERE inside the distributor cap causing cross fires!

5. Use a PREMIUM silicone seal between cap and coil!
DO NOT USE BLACK!
The black ones are normally RUBBER, not Silicone, and they are usually colored with Carbon Black, the same conductive substance used to color the cheap caps.

6. Use a PREMIUM ROTOR and change it often!
At least once a year!
If you start seeing a bunch of carbon building up around the center button terminal on the rotor,
It's time to change center buttons and rotors!
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Unread 02-10-2009, 05:20 PM   #64
Bubba Ray
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 1,663
I just picked up MSD part 84039 from Advance. The red Power tower is in 4 parts, the red plastic part, the brass looking part that the wire connects to, and the metal looking ring along with a zinc type screw. Did the ones others bought come this way? And if copper or brass is best for ignition parts then why the steel screw?
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Unread 02-10-2009, 06:00 PM   #65
JeepHammer
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba Ray View Post
I just picked up MSD part 84039 from Advance. The red Power tower is in 4 parts, the red plastic part, the brass looking part that the wire connects to, and the metal looking ring along with a zinc type screw. Did the ones others bought come this way? And if copper or brass is best for ignition parts then why the steel screw?
This isn't your PRIMARY ignition part!
This is a temporary adapter to get you along until you change coils/modules, ect.

If you want to use the 'Factory' coil with the 'Upgraded' cap terminals,
Then USE THE FORD WIRES! They have the correct coil wire terminals and you don't need an adapter!

Screw goes up through from the bottom, with the 'Fuzzy' looking terminal material on it first.
Once through the plastic insulator, the brass 'Thing' screws on the top.
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Unread 02-10-2009, 06:20 PM   #66
Drozen
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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I know this is 6 cyl thread-I have everything to do the adaptor-Echlin high end NAPA cap-rotor-Belden make your own wire set-with seporators-no zip ties PLEASE..lol...MSD blaster 3 coil--ITs on a 79' 304-Is the module switch a must do when then conversion is done..?or can i do that down the road a bit.?
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Unread 02-10-2009, 06:29 PM   #67
BioTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drozen View Post
I know this is 6 cyl thread-I have everything to do the adaptor-Echlin high end NAPA cap-rotor-Belden make your own wire set-with seporators-no zip ties PLEASE..lol...MSD blaster 3 coil--ITs on a 79' 304-Is the module switch a must do when then conversion is done..?or can i do that down the road a bit.?
I have the same engine. I'm staying with the stock module to start with. I read one of JeepHammers posts, and He said one could see hefty improvement even with the OEM module. I plan on building up a spare module using the GM unit mounted inside a duraspark housing using the original harness. I might run them side by side, and switch between the two and post any diferences noticed or not.
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Unread 02-10-2009, 06:53 PM   #68
Drozen
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Thanks for the input-im going to (no kidding) carry a spare Ford module around with me as a worst case thing.And as you said build the Gm--i like the retard the Ford gives for an easier start.

Own a Jeep YJ now and love the damn thing wanted a nice un cut up CJ for awhile and i think i found a great Jeep for a first time CJ.
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Unread 02-10-2009, 08:12 PM   #69
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drozen View Post
Thanks for the input-im going to (no kidding) carry a spare Ford module around with me as a worst case thing.And as you said build the Gm--i like the retard the Ford gives for an easier start.

Own a Jeep YJ now and love the damn thing wanted a nice un cut up CJ for awhile and i think i found a great Jeep for a first time CJ.
Pry the guts out of that 'Spare' module and do a 'Stealth HEI', putting the HEI clone module in the DuraSpark case.
It will bolt in and plug in right back where your DuraSpark is since it's in the DuraSpark case,
And since you use the DuraSpark Connectors, it will plug right back into the factory harness.

http://www.junkyardgenius.com/ignition/jeep/HEI01.html

Costs about $25 to do and keeps you from having to change modules in a mud hole, and MUCH cheaper than the NAPA 'premium' modules with poor track records.
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Unread 02-11-2009, 03:16 AM   #70
Drozen
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Posts: 112
See im in the industry where and who sells componets that are up to snuff..when i want the better stuff its Napa or CarQuest..
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Unread 02-11-2009, 08:07 AM   #71
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drozen View Post
See im in the industry where and who sells componets that are up to snuff..when i want the better stuff its Napa or CarQuest..
Famous Last Words...

Most of the Premium cases purported to be made in the USA...
AREN'T.

The last few dozen I've taken apart to make 'Stealth HEI's' out of were circuit boards printed in Korea or South America.
Components on the boards made in China, Taiwan or Korea,
Cases made in South Africa.
Wiring 'Pig Tails' made in South Africa or South America...

And virtually ALL component pieces SUB STANDARD.
------------------------------

At least with the Stealth HEI' you KNOW you are getting a Clone module, but a clone module that will sustain the current draw the 'Import' DuraSpark 'Replacment' won't.
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Unread 02-11-2009, 02:22 PM   #72
Bubba Ray
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Thanks Rollbar and Jeephammer. All done now but will not get to drive until this weekend.
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Unread 02-14-2009, 08:42 AM   #73
TOBYWON
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 165
What happened to all of the nice pics, JH? They're not showing up!
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"... God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us." Rom 5:8 (NIV)

/l , [____],
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{{{84' CJ7 RENEGADE / 258 I6 / Nuttered, HEI Dizzy, MC2150 (eBay) w/Manual Choke, MSD 6AL Ignition, Engine Totally Rebuilt in 2010}}}
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Unread 02-14-2009, 03:08 PM   #74
Old4X
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1990 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Ga
Posts: 5,087
Just a note on the parts list on the first page,

went to Advance Auto today to get these parts and "Blue Streak Premium Brass Terminal Distributor Cap & Rotor p/n KCR 202X" was no longer available.

And " Autolite p/n 96171" was on backorder.

As I wasn't sure what the application was, I gave up and went home.

I thought I saw somewhere these parts fit a 82 ford 300 in a E150, not sure and didn't want to do the wrong parts swap dance all afternoon. Is that the proper application for the distributor parts and ignition wires?

Also, what is a good quality brand that would be redily available.
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Unread 02-14-2009, 03:57 PM   #75
LibertyJeeper
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1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: sacramento
Posts: 701
Some emissions information.
Last week I had my jeep smogged and failed so I have a free retest. I did the "team rush" upgrade during the week and have not driven at all.
Here are the results.

................RPM...CO2%....02%....HC ppm.....CO%....NO ppm
Before TR
15mph ...1429...11.5.....4.4.....86...........0.04...... .1598.....
25mph ...2201...13.6.....1.4.....70...........0.31...... ..954.....
After TR
15mph...1449...11.64....4.4.....67...........0.04. .......1879
25mph...1434....11.5.....4.7.....54...........0.03 ........1606


This is not scientific by any stretch of the imagination. It was two different Techs, and two separate instruments. The 2nd tech let my jeep idle for about 35 minutes before he ran the sniffer. You can also see from the RPM's that he dogged it to much. Not to mention I only have the belt driven fan so the engine must have been hot as hell he had the bay door closed and no fan on it.

All that said there was a 23% decrease in both the HC and the CO. I blame the high NOx levels on the idiot tech.
This tests where performed under load on a dyno for California emissions.

It is my understanding that "Team Rush" comes into play more at higher RPM's. On the freeway I was able to stay in 5th gear on hills that make me downshift.
Excellent upgrade, Thank you Hammer.
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