True... I've owned the Jeep for almost 5 years now and this ignition correction all seems like a new Jeep to me. Since I've become the owner, it just seems like I was driving exactly what I purchased... an "old" Jeep. After being so used to it's quirks and all the things I had expected from an older vehicle, I'm just happily surprised that it can be much better than that expectation I had from the get-go.
I was in a "Rush"
last night so I didn't bother with the grease/sealants yet. As I still need to change out my plugs, I'll do all that when I get off work today. I did have to take off about 1/4" of rubber off of the #3 wire boot on the plug side. It was too long and kept popping the connector off of the plug. Problem solved. Luckily they had the Ford style wires so the coil wire fit just fine w/o the need for the "power tower." I also am going to pick up a new coil cap as mine's pretty beat and the wires move too much for my comfort. Tried to reseat the terminals but no bueno.
One conern I had was that the cap adapter and the cap and rotor were all a light gray color. Does this mean they still have some carbon element to them or have manufacturers moved past the carbon days?
Don't cut the boots off the plug wires unless there is simply no other way to get the plug wire on the plug.
That boot is the only thing between corrosion and your electrical connections/wire.
Put a little gob of dielectric grease on the SPARK PLUG TERMINAL to keep the connection from corroding,
And a VERY TINY amount on the spark plug insulator itself so when you TWIST the boot (Don't twist the wire!) onto the plug the grease will coat the terminal in a big way, but only allow for a slightly better seal at the boot.
If you have a good enough quality set of wires, the silicone based boots will almost feel 'Greasy' when you get them, and you don't need any grease in the boot, just the terminal.
Light gray is fine, no carbon there.
Light gray is better for seeing the 'Cobweb' tracks inside the cap when cross fires happen, and it's better for seeing the carbon track the cross fires lay down when they happen.
If you see a 'Cobweb' track inside the cap, the cap is shot- Just plain DONE.
You will notice two things right away,
One is there will be RIDGES inside the cap between plug terminals and center terminal.
These are for keeping cross fires from having a direct line to run across.
Cross fires happen when stray ions (Static electricity) line up to make a path for the high voltage discharge to go somewhere it shouldn't.
If you see a cross fire track, the cap is shot. There is a carbon track burned into the cap you can't remove and it will continue to allow even easier cross firing... Kind of like beating a path through brier thicket, once there is a path, people will take it every time!
The other thing you will notice is the rotor with it's big flat tail...
That's there to stir up the ionized air inline with the cap terminals.
The air becomes ionized any time there is an air gap in the electrical path, like from rotor to plug terminals.
An ionized path is a REQUIREMENT for a cross fire, so with all the extra ions clinging to everything, a path is going to happen...
*IF* you don't do something to break it.
That's the idea of the ridges and the stirring effect of the rotor, to keep things mixed up and keep down cross fires.
A VENTED cap will let some of the ionization out, V-8 caps have vents from the factory, while the I-6 caps sometimes don't have vents...
You just have to work with that.
Glad to see someone read/retained the information about black caps!
It's a big deal that most people just ignore.
'OLD JEEPS' are around because someone thought they were 'Worn Out' and weren't worth driving anymore, so you can still find them for a reasonable price.
If the camshaft still has 'Lumps' on it, and the cylinders still make compression,
The 'Issues' are usually with ignition or fuel supply.
When I buy 'Junk' Jeeps, the first thing I do is see if they are getting fuel, Then see if they have ignition components that have turned to crap...
The CJ-5 I drive the most was 'Blowed Up' when I bought it...
The guy wouldn't have it any other way.
I couldn't get it started, and I never started it when I got it home...
I tore the distributor out, replaced the breaker points with electronic trigger and electronic module, hit the key and it fired right up.
The 'Knocking' was an exhaust leak, evident by the large exhaust black spot on the fire wall.
In 24 hours I was ripping past the guy's place that sold it to me in a V-8 CJ-5 that I purchased for $350...
I still haven't fixed the exhaust leak, just rapped tin around the header tube and used a hose clamp to keep it from cooking the wiring harness on the fire wall, and it runs pretty good after a reasonable ignition & carb clean out/rebuild...
The guy was PISSED when he asked about it and found out what was wrong!
Too late, Someone that wants to do a little research and repair/maintenance owns it now and is having fun with it!