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Unread 01-12-2009, 06:52 PM   #16
86cj74.2L
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I just made the stealth HEI out of my dead Duraspark module. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be to get the potting material and old board out.

I am currently using an MSD setup to run the jeep. Way overkill.

I need to get a coil. then I'll install it and put the MSD back on the shelf.

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Unread 01-12-2009, 07:14 PM   #17
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
I just made the stealth HEI out of my dead Duraspark module. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be to get the potting material and old board out.

I am currently using an MSD setup to run the jeep. Way overkill.

I need to get a coil. then I'll install it and put the MSD back on the shelf.


Dear 86CJ74.2....

Why do you say this?????? "the MSD CDI is overkill part"



My Opinion, This is the best ignition we can put on the 258 with a carb??????

My experience with a weber 34 on a rebuilt 258 with DuraSpark, TeamRush, Ford E Coil (used), extra ground hwy mileage was 20/21 and with the Summit Digital CDI the hwy mileage went to 24/25. Could not feel it in the seat but showed in the wallet. That 75 miles per 15 gal tank..

The TeamRush and grounds jumped me from 17mpg to 20.5 mpg, FYI..

Regards,
Fred


This stuff works... No Ifs or Buts..
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Unread 01-12-2009, 08:21 PM   #18
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
Dear 86CJ74.2....

Why do you say this?????? "the MSD CDI is overkill part"



My Opinion, This is the best ignition we can put on the 258 with a carb??????

My experience with a weber 34 on a rebuilt 258 with DuraSpark, TeamRush, Ford E Coil (used), extra ground hwy mileage was 20/21 and with the Summit Digital CDI the hwy mileage went to 24/25. Could not feel it in the seat but showed in the wallet. That 75 miles per 15 gal tank..

The TeamRush and grounds jumped me from 17mpg to 20.5 mpg, FYI..

Regards,
Fred


This stuff works... No Ifs or Buts..
Is that T18 overdriveto see those numbers....The MSD when installed on my Daytone was a MPG improvement but not on the Jeep. Best I ever saw was 17mpg usually it was 15mpg. With the MSD it was still 15mpg. I could blame it on the BBD with its worn throttle shafts. I have a repaired base plate to install but was waiting for starting issues or the weather to brake to replace it.

I had to remove the MSD from my car to get the ignition fixed on the jeep when it failed the last time. I'd like it back. besides I have 3 HEI Dizzys that can provide spare modules to keep the Jeep running. If the MSD dies I'd have to do a lot more work to get the jeep running then just rob a module out of a spare Dizzy. (its a daily driver for my mother in law)
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Unread 01-12-2009, 08:56 PM   #19
wm69
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PLEASE MAKE THIS A STICKY!!!

For what it's worth, back before I had the internets and could find all kinds of neat write-ups like this, I bought a $350ish Jacobs ignition that I put on my Jeep. That thing worked great, even using that little dinky factory dist cap.
When I got the "wife's Jeep", I saw a writeup on Jeepz.com for a "TFI setup", which apparently isn't quite an accurate description of it, but bottom line, it was this "TeamRush" upgrade, and for about $50, it works just as well as that high $$$ Jacobs system did (in fact, the Jacobs started causing hard starts/ dragging down the starter not too long ago, so I swapped the TeamRush components over from Jeep #2 to Jeep #1 and that Jacobs turned out to be the problem. Haven't decided if I want to troubleshoot it or just TeamRush both Jeeps. Probably go with TeamRush on both so extra parts can be used on each Jeep)
Thanks for the writeup Jeephammer. Don't forget to do the wiring diagrams for properly wiring the alts on these things too......
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85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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Unread 01-12-2009, 09:45 PM   #20
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadcarter View Post
I know that this is posted as an I-6 upgrade, but could you also include the part numbers for the V8 upgrade (Cap, Adapter, & Rotor). Those numbers are sometimes hard to find.
No.
There will be a V-8 Post when I get time to do it.

The standard V-8 stuff is '79 Ford F-150 pickup with 304 V-8.
Cap Adapter,
Distributor Cap (premium)
Rotor,
And a set of 'Cut To Fit' plug wires since I've not found any that work really well.

For the V-8 application, You SHOULD change the ignition coil to an E-core,
And you SHOULD consider a module upgrade.

V-8's run hotter, faster and have less time to saturate/discharge the ignition, so the E-core coil is a VERY good idea.
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Unread 01-12-2009, 09:49 PM   #21
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neals80 View Post
Jeep Hammer this pic was done before I Teamrushed my I6 followed your website info to the word and it took 30 min...I rep ( my job) Bostik sealants who owns the real Never SEEZE..so I used that as well as an extra ground off the Ign Module....My question is where 1 cylinder is located....almost 180 out...the PO recently installed a new Long Block and moved the Dist......It runs great where it is...Your thoughts and Thank You again for all your help and knowledge that is very simple to understand....
Your distributor is 3 holes out.
Your vacuum advance should be pointing at the front of the engine block,
And your rotor should be pointing at the pivot point for the vacuum advance when the distributor is fully installed.

Like this when correctly installed...



----------------------------

Here is one thing you might not know...

The distributor DOES NOT CARE where you place it in rotation.
It simply triggers three times in any given rotation of the crankshaft.
------------

TO SET YOUR DISTRIBUTOR IN THE CORRECT LOCATION...

FIND COMPRESSION STROKE of the #1 (Front) Cylinder.
Take the spark plug out, turn the engine over BY HAND, CLOCKWISE, until you feel the pressure start to build in the cylinder.

DON'T USE THE STARTER TO 'BUMP' THE ENGINE!
With the spark plug out, the momentum of the crankshaft and starter/flywheel will carry the crank right past the compression stroke!
ROTATE BY HAND!

Once the compression stroke starts,
Take a breath, then find yourself a chop stick from the local 'Oriental' restaurant, and use that IN THE SPARK PLUG HOLE to feel for the cylinder coming up.
When you feel the top of the piston coming up, go slow with turning the crankshaft...
You want to find the point where the piston is at TOP DEAD CENTER.
The farthest up it will go!

Now, You have just VERIFIED TDC of #1 On COMPRESSION STROKE with nothing more than a spark plug socket, a chop stick and a wrench to turn the crankshaft bolt.
Older engines, you can just grab the lower pulley with your hands and turn the crank!

NOW,
You have VERIFIED COMPRESSION STROKE,
You have VERIFIED TDC of #1,

It's time to have a look at the harmonic balancer and see if the mark on it lines up with timing marks on the front cover.
It should be VERY CLOSE to the ZERO degree mark.
If it's NOT, the balancer is shot!

NOW,
Move to the distributor.
Locate the #1 on the distributor cap.
That is were the #1 plug wire should be located.
If it's not, you have a problem...
Not a big problem, but a problem...

Unbolt the distributor, and move the housing around so it looks like then one in the picture, with the vacuum advance nipple pointing at the front of the engine block...

Lift the distributor until the distributor gear clears the camshaft gear, and the rotor turns freely.

This would be a GREAT time for a new distributor gasket!... But you don't have to lift the distributor completely out of the engine if you aren't changing gaskets...
If you are not comfortable with that, then don't do it...

When you have the rotor pointing like the one in the picture,
You need to turn the rotor BACKWARDS (COUNTER-CLOCKWISE) about 1 cap terminal space, to 1.5 cap terminal spaces,
Then drop the distributor back down on the camshaft.

As the gears engage, you will notice the rotor turning.

TAKE NOTE!
Your distributor probably won't drop all the way back in place.
THIS IS NORMAL!
It's the oil pump not lining up with the distributor shaft, and it happens to everybody.

WHERE YOU GET INTO TROUBLE IS...
TURNING THE DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT TO MAKE THE DISTRIBUTOR DROP INTO PLACE!
Do it the other way around!

TURN THE ENGINE OVER TWO FULL REVOLUTIONS and come back to TDC mark on the balancer now that you VERIFIED it's correct.

DO NOT TURN JUST ONCE, or turn until the distributor drops!
You MUST turn the engine over TWO FULL REVOLUTIONS.
You CAN use the starter for this! BUT make sure you keep track of how many turns you go!

When you have two full revolutions,
You felt the compression as the engine stopped turning,
The balancer mark is back at 'ZERO' on the scale,
The distributor should be fully seated on the block,
and the rotor should be pointing at the pivot point on the vacuum advance like the one in the picture...

NOW!
*IF* the rotor is pointing at the pivot arm, the vacuum advance nipple is pointing at the front of the engine, (like in the picture),
The balancer mark is at 'Zero' (more or less)...
You are ready to move your firing order around to it's proper location and you are done (Don't forget to time the engine, and lock the distributor down!)

*IF* The rotor is pointing AWAY from the pivot point on the vacuum advance arm... (And this is actually pretty common for guys that use the starter instead of turning the engine by hand)

You only turned the engine ONCE, or you turned the engine THREE revolutions instead of EXACTLY TWO REVOLUTIONS.

This means you need to locate COMPRESSION of #1 CYLINDER AGAIN, LOCATE TDC AGAIN, LIFT THE DISTRIBUTOR, AND RESET THE DISTRIBUTOR.

*IF* The distributor dropped into place, but the rotor nose a about half a space one way or the other of the vacuum advance pivot point.
You turned the rotor too little or too much before dropping the distributor.

You are already at Compression TDC of #1, so just lift the distributor, adjust the rotor nose counter clockwise (adjusting for what you just saw) and try to drop it on the correct spot on the cam gear again...
Keep in mind you WILL have to turn the crankshaft TWO MORE TIMES with each try if the distributor doesn't drop down to the block when installed...
(and it usually won't!)

Once your distributor & rotor look like the ones in the picture, you are just a few degrees off in timing, so you MUST time the engine when done!
AND DON'T FORGET TO MOVE THE PLUG WIRES AROUND SO THE #1PLUG WIRE IS ON THE #1 TERMINAL, AND CORRECT THE REST OF THE FIRING ORDER...
1-5-3-6-2-4 CLOCKWISE
Also, forgetting to tighten the distributor clamp down is common, so remember that.

This procedure will give you,
VERIFICATION of COMPRESSION STROKE.
VERIFICATION of TDC
VERIFICATION your balancer isn't shot (yet).
VERIFICATION that your distributor is correctly placed.
-----------------------------

REMEMBER!

It's the ROTOR/PLUG WIRE relationship that cares where things go!
Since the gear on the distributor is 'Spiral' cut, the rotor is going to try and turn as the distributor drops into place, so remember to turn the rotor nose 1 to 1.5 spaces COUNTER CLOCK WISE before you start to drop it on the camshaft gear...
That way it will be in the correct location when the distributor drops fully in place (Directly down) on the oil pump shaft...

Last edited by JeepHammer; 01-12-2009 at 10:35 PM..
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Unread 01-13-2009, 07:32 AM   #22
chadcarter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
No.
There will be a V-8 Post when I get time to do it.
Sorry Hammer, Didnt mean to jump the gun. As always appreciate your input. Will look forward to the V8 write up.
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Unread 01-13-2009, 09:51 AM   #23
neals80
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Mr JH,
All is done with the distributor and it is running great,,,,seems like I have more sensitive timing....Thank You again for your time and knowledge...
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IF I WANTED A HUMMER I WOULD HAVE CALLED YOUR GIRLFRIEND!!
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Unread 01-13-2009, 11:57 AM   #24
molsenice
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Jeep hammer has just saved me count less hours of headache - I have an I6 from 74 that still has all the factory stuff on it - just the team rush and distributor info is enough for now since I am most likly months away from firing it up. being that I won't have to pass any sniffer tests - just want it running as efficiently, simplistically as possible so much of the rotted out exhaust gas recuculating stuff has to be removed or replaced

Thankyou Jeep hammer
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Unread 01-13-2009, 12:41 PM   #25
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by molsenice View Post
Jeep hammer has just saved me count less hours of headache - I have an I6 from 74 that still has all the factory stuff on it - just the team rush and distributor info is enough for now since I am most likly months away from firing it up. being that I won't have to pass any sniffer tests - just want it running as efficiently, simplistically as possible so much of the rotted out exhaust gas recuculating stuff has to be removed or replaced

Thankyou Jeep hammer
NOT REALLY....
You have a '74, then you have a PRESTOLITE ignition system, and there is NO upgrade for it of any kind...

If it's an I-6 engine, then I would consider either a GM HEI, (NOT A CLONE! Get a 'Reman' distributor and build it)

Or I'd use a Jeep/Motorcraft distributor from a newer year and use a CDI ignition module to drive the ignition.

Anyway, let me know when you get closer, and we'll review your abilities and options and figure out what will and won't work for you.
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Unread 01-13-2009, 12:56 PM   #26
j33pman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by molsenice View Post
being that I won't have to pass any sniffer tests
One of they few good things about NY
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Unread 01-13-2009, 02:08 PM   #27
neals80
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J33pman how is the weather....we moved to South Florida from gallupville in 74.....I have only been back once a few summers back heading to Lake George.....I was 12 when we left I still miss the scenery.....
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IF I WANTED A HUMMER I WOULD HAVE CALLED YOUR GIRLFRIEND!!
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Unread 01-14-2009, 06:22 PM   #28
molsenice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
NOT REALLY....
You have a '74, then you have a PRESTOLITE ignition system, and there is NO upgrade for it of any kind...

If it's an I-6 engine, then I would consider either a GM HEI, (NOT A CLONE! Get a 'Reman' distributor and build it)

Or I'd use a Jeep/Motorcraft distributor from a newer year and use a CDI ignition module to drive the ignition.

Anyway, let me know when you get closer, and we'll review your abilities and options and figure out what will and won't work for you.
Will do JH - thank you!

Since it hasn't become a sticky or moved to the "CJ STICKIES THREAD (FAQs) ", I shall add it to my subscribed and get back to ya with this in a few months - or sooner it I move it allong a bit
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Unread 01-14-2009, 11:56 PM   #29
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by molsenice View Post
Will do JH - thank you!

Since it hasn't become a sticky or moved to the "CJ STICKIES THREAD (FAQs) ", I shall add it to my subscribed and get back to ya with this in a few months - or sooner it I move it allong a bit
I think it is a 'Sticky' in FAQ...
BESRK said he was going to put it up there.

YUP, Says "TeamRush Upgrade by JeepHammer..."
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Unread 01-18-2009, 01:26 PM   #30
Pumbaa
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Very nice writeup! Could you post a larger pic of the rotor showing the carbon tracks? I may have seen that before on other older vehicles but didn't remark on it.
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