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Unread 01-12-2009, 03:30 AM   #1
JeepHammer
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 10,735
I-6 'TeamRush Upgrade' (definitive)

*
I NO LONGER RECOMMEND AUTOLITE PLUG WIRES!

I HAVE HAD REAL TROUBLE WITH THEM IN THE PAST TWO YEARS AND I NO LONGER RECOMMEND THEM!

IF YOU WANT 'OFF THE SHELF' WIRES,
Then Use 'Motorcraft' brand wires instead,
They seem to still be fairly well made...


--------------------------------------------------------------------------

PARTS LIST, Advance Auto,

Advance Auto, DISTRIBUTOR CAP p/n C193 from Borg Warner.

Advance Auto, ROTOR p/n D219Z from Borg Warner.

Advance Auto, CAP ADAPTER p/n C193AP from Borg Warner.

Advance Auto, PLUG WIRES p/n WR4050 from Motorcraft.
(Comes with BOTH coil wires, E-core coils are NOT recommended with stock ignition modules)

-----------------------------------------------------------------

PARTS LIST, Auto Zone

Auto Zone, Cap Adapter, $4.99, p/n F960
Auto Zone, Distributor Cap, $20.99, p/n F2104G
Auto Zone, Rotor, $3.99, p/n F953
Auto Zone, Plug Wires, Motorcraft p/n WR4050
(Comes with both types of coil wires, E-core coils are NOT recommended with stock ignition modules.)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO CHANGE COILS!

The Factory canister coils is perfectly fine for 99% of the I-6 engines this is going to be used on,
And if you switch coils,
I suggest you use an MSD Blaster 2F, p/n 8205

Fits right in your stock bracket, connects directly to your factory harness and works better than the orignal from the factory.

Keep in mind that most of you have a 25+ year old coil in your vehicles!
This might be a good time to retire it for something a little better and a BUNCH NEWER!
--------------------------------------------------------------------


Decide on CANISTER COIL or E-core coil.


MY Suggestion is to use your FACTORY STYLE COIL

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO CHANGE COILS OR BUY A NEW COIL.

---------------------------------------------------------------------

Some people upgrade to an MSD factory style coil (Blaster 2F)
OR,
They use a Ford E-core coil, or an MSD E-core coil.
(Ford, junk yard for about $5. Don't forget to get the coil bracket and coil electrical connector plug if you do!
MSD coil p/n 8227

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

If you buy a new coil, you will need to fabricate a bracket,
AND,
You will need to purchase a coil connector,
NAPA p/n ICC1, $15.

PLUG WIRES,
Factory Ignition Coil, Autolite p/n 96171

E-core coil, Autolite p/n 96624

NEW PREMIUM PLUGS FOR YOUR YEAR/ENGINE.
All years are different, so I can't give specific part numbers for all variations, altitudes, ect.

Suggestion is to use Autolite or Denso, and gap to 0.045" regardless of the engine you have or what the book says.

Tube of 'Never-Seize'.

Tube of 'Tune Up Grease' (Dielectric Grease)

Tube of Butyl or Silicone caulking, or Weather Strip Adhesive (optional).

TOOLS.
One medium sized flat blade screwdriver,
One medium sized (#2 Phillips) cross screw driver,
One plug socket and drive tool,
Plug gap checker,
Needle nose pliers.

-------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------

This is about what your 'PIG' should look like...



TAKE NOTE of where the #1 (front) cylinder plug wire is located on the cap, and then mark that location on the distributor base...
(so you can find it again with the new cap!)
This is showing me marking the distributor cap #1 terminal, but you need to MARK THE DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING, not the cap like I'm showing...



(My mark on the distributor HOUSING wouldn't show up in pictures, so we marked the cap to illustrate that you need to know where #1 plug wires terminal is located RIGHT NOW!)

*IF*, and this is a BIG *IF*...
Your distributor is installed correctly, your #1 terminal mark will be on the housing where the rotor is now pointing. (your rotor will likely be pointing someplace else, but I have this one turned to point at where the #1 plug wire terminal MARK should be for illustration purposes.)



Start with the DISTRIBUTOR CAP ADAPTER...
That would be the GRAY THING on the RIGHT in this picture...



I often put some 'butyl' or 'silicone' sealer on the bottom edge of the adapter before it screw it down to the distributor.
This helps keep A BUNCH of water out of the distributor.
Your ignition distributor won't by any means be 'Water Proof', but it WILL help keep a large source of water in the distributor OUT!

Since the adapter doesn't have to be removed very often, you can 'Glue' it down with 'Weather Strip Adhesive' if you want to keep a BUNCH of water out!

I DO NOT use the blue 'RTV' sealer or 'Form-A-Gasket'
, since they off gas a LOT of acids while curing... ACIDS & Electronics don't get alone well!
....................

Here is what the adapter and new rotor look like installed...
Put a 'Dab' of 'Tune Up Grease' on the rotor NOSE. Just a little 'dab'.
'Tune Up Grease', or Dielectric grease IS NOT never sizes or caulking/sealer!



Once adapter and rotor are installed, slap the cap on the adapter...
DO NOT forget to put some 'tune up' grease in the groove on the UNDERSIDE of the distributor cap!
(In the groove only.)
This will seal the cap to the adapter and keep one source of water out of the distributor, but still allow you to get the cap off at any time.



Now, with distributor 'Tune Up' parts in place,
You are ready to do the plugs...

Make sure they are properly gapped,
DO NOT Pry on the center electrode to gap them!
DO NOT bang on the 'Ground' electrode to close up the gap!
Modern 'Resistor' plugs are VERY SENSITIVE!
Use a pair of NEEDLE NOSE pliers to bend the 'Ground' electrode instead of PRYING on the center electrode! That's the WORST thing you can do to a spark plug (Prying on the center electrode or 'Tapping' the gap closed!)

They have a 'Carbon Pile' resistor inside the insulator, and if you break that very fragile carbon, 1/6 of your horsepower and torque goes right out the window!



IF YOU DROP A PLUG ON THE GROUND, REPLACE IT!
I can't stress this enough!
This is probably the #1 reason for 'Loss Of Power' or 'Poor Economy' complaints after a 'Tune Up'!
People just don't realize how fragile the plugs are!

You don't need a ton of 'Never Seize' on the threads, but you DO need to use it (Copper if you can find it, but zinc is OK if you can't turn it up easily or Copper is too expensive for your project)

PLUG WIRE TIME,
Use AT LEAST Autolite brand plug wires!
The cheap 'Store Brands' or 'Private Label' brands are CRAP!



MSD wires are without question the best wires on the market, but they are $65+ !!!
For a low revving I-6 engine, the Autolite wires should do you fine.

Use a 'Q-Tip' and put a little dab of dielectric grease (Tune Up grease) in each end of each plug boot.
(If you use factory coil, DO NOT grease the coil end of the coil wire, everything with a 'Spark Plug' terminal gets it!)

This will help keep the water from your connections, and that will keep the ignition from grounding out, and it will keep the terminals from corroding.
The grease also keeps the boots from drying out and cracking.

NOW, If you take a CLOSE LOOK, you will see I mark the FIRING ORDER, starting with the #1 plug wire position, on the cap.
this makes things A LOT MORE SIMPLE! (Old racing trick!)



AMC I-6 FIRING ORDER... 1-5-3-6-2-4 CLOCK WISE!
Cylinders are numbered 1-2-3-4-5-6 Front To Back.

SOMETIMES, when I'm doing this upgrade,
I notice the factory coil connector has seen MUCH better days!
The terminals in the connector are shot, the wires are about broke off the terminals from vibration and corrosion, and it's generally in BAD SHAPE!



These are cheap (around $7) and available from Auto Zone or NAPA.
This one is from Auto Zone...
EASY TO INSTALL, clip the wires to the old one, and use crimp connectors with heat shrink tubing to seal up the splice, and you are DONE!

BAD COIL CONNECTOR is a VERY COMMON PROBLEM, and the cause of that mystery 'No Start' or mystery 'Shut Off' problem so many people experience,
BUT,
Since it's an INTERMITTENT problem, it's VERY hard to trace!
.............................................

Unless you changed the coil to an 'E-core', you are DONE!
That's all there is to it! A simple ignition 'Tune Up' but using PREMIUM PARTS!
..............................................

*IF*, you did change the coil to an 'E-core', you will need a new coil connector.
Clip the wires going to the factory coil connector,
Match up the wires to the E-core coil connector, RED TO RED, Green To Green.

Don't forget mount the coil!
(Yes, I've got every thing done, and test drove, just to get back and find the coil hanging by the wires!)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

WHY YOU ARE DOING THIS UPGRADE, AND WHAT IT'S DOING FOR YOU...

The small cap and short rotor from the factory allow the SPARK ENERGY to bounce around inside the distributor cap like crazy!
If you ever cut a hole in the distributor cap, and run the engine at night so you can see it, those small caps look like a fireworks display!

The spark energy jumping from the coil terminal to the distributor housing is called a 'Ground Fire'.
This means one of your cylinders, 1/3 of the power for that engine revolution, went right out the exhaust pipe without ever contributing!

Using the TALLER ROTOR lifts the spark energy up, away from the housing and distributor shaft, virtually ELIMINATING the ground fire problem.

In fact, you can actually feed MORE spark energy through the taller rotor without fear of ground fires!
It's FREE ENERGY going to your spark plugs instead of going to ground fires where it does you NO good!
.............................

The spark energy jumping to the WRONG terminal at the very least is 1/3 of the power for the RPM going out the exhaust....
IF YOU ARE LUCKY!

You see, if that spark jumped to a cylinder that was on the EXHAUST STROKE, the spark was wasted, and didn't fire the cylinder it was supposed to...

BUT...
IF that spark fires the cylinder AHEAD of the one it's supposed to,
It's firing the cylinder 120° TOO SOON in the firing order!

Think about that for a minute...

3° or 4° too much timing can cause detonation in your engine,
But people ROUTINELY allow 120° TOO MUCH TIMING ADVANCE without doing ANYTHING ABOUT IT!

That's like hitting the piston with a SLEDGE HAMMER and can break pistons, break valves, ruin rods and bearings, and a HOST of other things you don't even want to know about!

The WIDER cap spreads the terminals farther apart, making the CORRECT plug wire terminal the more attractive for the spark energy to jump to!
.............................



Last edited by JeepHammer; 06-02-2010 at 09:11 PM..
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Unread 01-12-2009, 03:31 AM   #2
JeepHammer
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 10,735

Now, lets talk about the cap material it's self...

Black distributor caps usually use 'Carbon Black'
(Carbon Black = Soot from industrial manufacture, power generation, ect. Common coloring agent for automotive parts like plastic interior parts and tires, distributor caps, ect.)
To color the plastic.

CARBON IS A CONDUCTOR OF ELECTRICITY!

The cap is actually permuting the cross fires and ground fire problems!
If the cap is slick/shiny BLACK plastic, then look for dull, gray 'Carbon Tracks' inside the cap...
They will look like pencil marks or cob webs, just barely visible.
If you find them, YOU HAVE A PROBLEM!

The NEXT problem with factory distributor caps is,
They have ALUMINUM TERMINALS.
Aluminum is a fair conductor of electricity,
BUT,
When there is a ARC, like when the spark energy JUMPS THE GAP BETWEEN ROTOR AND PLUG TERMINAL,
IT burns the aluminum into a 'Crust'...
That 'Crust' is Aluminum Oxide, and Aluminum Oxide is NOT CONDUCIVE!

I know this IS NOT a 'Black' cap, but it's a 'Premium' cap with pretty good internal ribbing to block cross fires,
BUT,
IT HAS ALUMINUM TERMINALS, and at 3 months old, this Jeep already had a SERIOUS miss fire/cross fire problem!



SO, With every firing of the ignition, it's building an ELECTRICAL INSULATOR SHELL over the terminal it's suppose to be firing,
BUT,
The SIDES of the terminal in front, and behind of the proper terminal are exposed conductors!
SO, The spark Energy just jumps to the easier conductor terminal, and it's not the PROPER terminal.

Aluminum terminals get 'BURROWED' into when the arc strike, so you can't just sand away the surface oxides, since the arc burned a 'Worm Hole' in the terminal...

Brass terminals build up carbon deposits, but you can scrape them with a light sanding, and go right on using the same distributor cap for YEARS!
...............

The other aspect we need to address is IONIZED AIR.
You CAN NOT have an arc without ionizing the air in the gap between both terminals.
This isn't a problem in the cylinders, since the 'Ozone' or Ionized air exits with the exhaust,

BUT,
In a distributor cap, the Ionized air builds up...
And makes it possible for an electrical discharge to jump anywhere it is drawn...

See, if the cap is fully ionized, the normal rules don't apply the way you think they should...
Fully ionized, the electrons are free to go any direction the ionized air is drifting... So the spark might turn 90°, make and 'S' bend, then jump to the shaft, housing, wrong plug terminal, ect.

If the cap has conductive carbon black in it, the problem is COMPOUNDED.

By using a COLORED cap (no carbon) and BRASS TERMINALS,
And spreading the terminals and ground access to the distributor housing farther apart, we are GREATLY increasing the chances the spark energy will go to the correct spark plug terminal!

ADDING a bunch of extra air volume inside the distributor cap makes it MUCH HARDER for ALL the air to get ionized,
AND The taller Ford rotor is actually DESIGNED TO STIR UP THE AIR inside the cap to keep the Ion trails broken up!

Take a CLOSE LOOK at this rotor...
You will see the "Carbon Tracking" where the spark energy was coming in through the center coil wires terminal, and jumping directly AWAY from the rotor nose and DIRECTLY AWAY from the terminal it was supposed to be firing!



If you look at the rotor 'Nose' you will see the cheap material it's made of has Oxidized so badly the spark energy would rather go out the BACK SIDE than go to the terminal it was intended for!

And remember, this is a 3 month old 'Premium' cap and rotor, with store brand 'Premium' plug wires!...
(All ignition components ARE NOT created equal, no matter how shiny the box or how much advertising they do!)

-----------------------------------------------------

This is a TRUE UPGRADE.
There is NO DOWN SIDE to this, so it's an UPGRADE for the Jeep.

Simple tune up parts, off the shelf at any auto parts store...

Advance Auto,
Cap Adapter, $6.49, p/n C 193 AP
Premium Distributor Cap, $31.98, p/n C193
Premium Rotor, $4.49, p/n D219

Auto Zone
Cap Adapter, $4.99, p/n F960
Distributor Cap, $20.99, p/n F2104G
Rotor, $3.99, p/n F953

OR,
From an '82 Ford F-150 Pickup with 300 CID I-6 Engine,
Distributor Cap Adapter,
Distributor Cap,
Rotor,
*IF* Factory Coil,
Plug Wires, Autolite brand p/n 96171.

*IF* E-core coil,
Plug Wires from 94 Jeep with 4.0L engine
Autolite brand p/n 96624.

Both will fit PERFECTLY!


Last edited by JeepHammer; 03-11-2009 at 02:31 AM..
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Unread 01-12-2009, 03:31 AM   #3
JeepHammer
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 10,735

MSD ignition IS NOT the TeamRush Upgrade.

CDI modules (of which MSD is one of the best makers) complement the TeamRush Upgrade, but the two are NOT the same thing.

To use a CDI module correctly, you SHOULD do the TeamRush Upgrade FIRST!
-------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------

The 'TeamRush Upgrade' fixes the problems with the distributor cap, rotor and plug wires so you can get the Spark Energy to the plugs.


CDI ignition modules (like MSD) make the coil put out 500% to 1,000% MORE spark energy.

If you use a CDI ignition module,

(in place of the factory ignition module, which is a 'Weakling' compared to the CDI modules...)

Instead of 12 volts or less getting to the ignition coil,
The CDI module will feed it 400 to 600 volts!

Instant increase of 500% to 1,000% in coil output energies!

The CDI ignitions are VERY EASY to install, and with some simple adapters and connectors, they are virtually a drop in install.
------------------------------------------------------

First Off,
Lets cover the 'Off Road' modules.

The 'Off Road' module is sealed up,
Potted in epoxy, so once you own one, you are stuck with it no matter what happens.
MSD has an EXCELLENT warranty program, and still warranties modules that have been out there for 25 years,
BUT,
The 'OFF ROAD' module is NON-SERVICEABLE!

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku



Unless you plan to dunk it under water regularly or mount it somewhere STUPID, they just aren't worth the money for the average user.
-----------------------------

With a 258 I-6 engine, you probably don't have enough cam left to over-rev the engine...
So a rev limiter isn't an issue like it would be with a Fresh V-8...

So, if you are set on MSD, I'd say this is your best bang for the buck...

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku



If you are not married to the MSD name, THIS is the best bang for the buck...

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku



----------------------------------------------

Either way, this is what you need to make a really painless connection of the 'Power Up' wire,

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku



When you unplug your stock module (under the windshield washer tank), you plug this into the wires from the harness,
And it makes your install 'Seamless' with no wire cutting...
(don't forget to tape over the DuraSpark module 2 wire plug!)

------------------------------------------------

Use this connector from Auto Zone to hook the MSD up to your stock ignition coil (just unplug the factory harness connector, and plug this right on the factory coil) Autozone p/n 252.



DO NOT forget to tape over your factory harness coil connector!

-------------------------------------------------

Use the Motorcraft/MSD adapter to switch distributor wiring from Motorcraft plug to MSD plug...
(Disconnect the harness, and tape over the harness plug)

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku



This is what it looks like plugged into the distributor.
Notice the harness plug to the left that needs to be taped over?



-----------------------------------------------------

Here is your wiring diagram if you use the common MSD or the Summit versions since they use the same plugs for everything...



-------------------------------------

LEAVE THE FACTORY IGNITION WIRING IN PLACE!

If you need a back up ignition for any reason, you can take the tape off the module harness plug, the distributor harness plug and the harness coil connector,
Plug them back in and you have a complete back up ignition!
Trail or daily driver redundancy is a GOOD thing!
--------------------------------------

Pick a spot the CDI module is NOT going to get wet!
I mount them under my dash most of the time so they don't get rained on.
(and in your case, don't get salt water on them)

The is an "Extension" for the sensitive distributor trigger wires,
MSD p/n 8862

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku



Keep this wire away from the coil or power wires!

------------------------------
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Unread 01-12-2009, 03:32 AM   #4
JeepHammer
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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MODERATOR!

PLEASE MAKE THIS A 'STICKY' OR A 'TECH' ARTICLE SO WE CAN JUST LINK TO IT WHEN SOMEONE ASKS ABOUT THE 'TEAM RUSH' UPGRADE!


Saving space for the 'Computer' distributor advance problem..

Last edited by JeepHammer; 01-12-2009 at 03:49 AM..
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Unread 01-12-2009, 03:45 AM   #5
JeepHammer
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Saving Space.

Stealth HEI conversion.
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Unread 01-12-2009, 11:13 AM   #6
sikdogg
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Wow, that was awesome...
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Unread 01-12-2009, 02:03 PM   #7
JeepHammer
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This has all been covered in bits and pieces, I'm just trying to consolidate it for a 'Definitive' reference for the future.
There are WAY too many 'Have TeamRush/TFI upgrade questions' and
*IF* They take an hour to read all this, they won't have ANY questions about anything,
And maybe take away some information that they didn't have before!

Educated consumer is a force to be reckoned with!
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Unread 01-12-2009, 02:05 PM   #8
79CJ7TX
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Wow thanks hammer, this is excellent and is an unbelievable resource to have. Thanks again!
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Unread 01-12-2009, 02:06 PM   #9
GPER
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sikdogg View Post
Wow, that was awesome...
They always are, and I stuck this link on the clubs board so I can find it easier.
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Unread 01-12-2009, 02:14 PM   #10
j33pman
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Nice write-up Jeephammer, I think I will look at the Summit CDI box this year
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Unread 01-12-2009, 02:31 PM   #11
chadcarter
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I know that this is posted as an I-6 upgrade, but could you also include the part numbers for the V8 upgrade (Cap, Adapter, & Rotor). Those numbers are sometimes hard to find.
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1983 Jeep CJ-7, AMC 360 swap, TF999, AMC 20 w/ 4.10s Mosers & Detroit, Dana 30 4.10s Open. 4" BDS with 1" Daystar BL & 1" Shackle lift. 35x12.50x15 General Grabber M/T. Corner & Rocker protection by Sniper Fab, with Bumpers by GroundPounder Fab.
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Unread 01-12-2009, 05:41 PM   #12
The Keith
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dang...wish I had it all in front of me like this last summer...would've cut my project time in half! Awesome write up!
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Unread 01-12-2009, 06:27 PM   #13
neals80
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Jeep Hammer this pic was done before I Teamrushed my I6 followed your website info to the word and it took 30 min...I rep ( my job) Bostik sealants who owns the real Never SEEZE..so I used that as well as an extra ground off the Ign Module....My question is where 1 cylinder is located....almost 180 out...the PO recently installed a new Long Block and moved the Dist......It runs great where it is...Your thoughts and Thank You again for all your help and knowledge that is very simple to understand....
jeep-dist-pic.jpg  
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Unread 01-12-2009, 06:49 PM   #14
martydriscoll
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coil

well, i just got back from the local parts house with my new dist cap, rotor, plugs and adapter. i was wondering what coil if any to upgrade to... they have 3 msd coils. a blaster 2, blaster 3 and an e-coil msd coil!!! whats the best or should i stick with my stock coil for now???by the way great write up. thanks for putting it all in 1 place. please sticky this!!!
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Unread 01-12-2009, 07:50 PM   #15
BlueOvalBud
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just 2 weekends ago we team-rushed our scrambler. We threw out the crappy prestolite system, installed a motorcraft distributor, and did the team rush, WOW, the FEEP (Jeep with ford parts) no longer hesistates, stalls, or studders! What a fabulous upgrade!! it took a week or so, reading the forum at night and reading all the different variations to figure out the correct parts and how-to...eventually figured it out...but what a GREAT write-up! Thank JeepHammer for your dedication to other fellow Jeepers!
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