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Unread 03-18-2014, 12:54 PM   #16
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spieg8
You are correct.. My bad. I was thinking of a pressurized system. Not sure I agree with this. The dozen or so t-stats I've observed began to open a little below the rated temp and opened fully at rated temp. But I'm not going to argue based on my limited experience. Regardless, my point is still valid. A pot of boiling water can be hot enough to damage a t-stat (and never test while pot is on the stove as heat can be passed from the metal bot/burner to the t-stat). Best practice would use a thermometer to verify the water temp before dunking the t-stat.
I'm in agreement. Its fully open "by"or "at"rated temp.

Unless you slowly heat the water and constantly agitate the water its a test of if it opens or not not accurate of what temp it's starting to open.

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Unread 03-18-2014, 01:06 PM   #17
wellmax
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empty cooling system of fluid
pull off upper and lower radiator hoses.
hold your hand over the lower radiator opening
fill radiator with water,
then release your hand from the lower radiator opening, water should gush out,


if not the radiator is probably at least partially stopped up, have it flushed and rodded, you must have a good radiator to insure you do not over heat your motor and ruin it.


replace the fan clutch if you have not done that, they come on off many times per mile and wear out.


be sure the fan shroud is in good order and in place, otherwise air will be pulled around the radiator


there are product out there that increase the cooling power of the coolant (radiator ice, or something like that might help)


DO NOT MESS AROUND AND GET THAT GOOD MOTOR HOT AND RUIN IT, BIG BUCKS


let us know what you find wrong or combination of things that fix the problem!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Unread 03-18-2014, 01:13 PM   #18
Matt1981CJ7
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ABC's of Thermostats

Thermostat Temperatures

- Thermostats have a “rated” temperature such as 180F or 195F
- This is the temperature the thermostat will start to open, give or take 3 degrees
- The thermostat fully open about 15-20 degrees above its rated temperature


Thermostats Explained

"Thermostats have a “rated” temperature such as 180F or 195F. This is the temperature the thermostat will start to open, give or take 3 degrees."

Automotive Systems - Thermostats

"Thermostats are designed to open at specific temperatures. This is known as thermostat rating. Normal ratings are between 180F and 195F for automotive applications and between 170F and 203F for heavy-duty applications. Thermostats will begin to open at their rated temperature and are fully open about 20F higher, For example, a thermostat with a rating of 195F starts to open at that temperature and is fully open at about 215F."

According my IR thermometer, all of these links have it correct.

Matt
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Unread 03-18-2014, 03:27 PM   #19
86cj74.2L
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I yield
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Unread 03-18-2014, 03:48 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
I'm in agreement. Its fully open "by"or "at"rated temp.
Nope-Do some research here.
The stamped temp. rating is when it starts to open. Most are fully open 10* or so above that stamped rating.
If you do think this is NOT so-Call Stant, and ask'em.
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Unread 03-18-2014, 04:58 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits
Nope-Do some research here. The stamped temp. rating is when it starts to open. Most are fully open 10* or so above that stamped rating. If you do think this is NOT so-Call Stant, and ask'em.
That's why I said I yield. I went to Stants site
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Unread 03-18-2014, 07:43 PM   #22
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Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any resemblance between their readings and reality is probably coincidental.
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Unread 03-18-2014, 08:03 PM   #23
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The last time I worried about overheating due to a stat was about 1974 driving through Pennsylvania on my way to Oregon hauling all my goods and my family to our new dream. I took the thing out and flipped it some place, left the hole MT for about three years until I wanted more heat in the cab.
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Unread 03-18-2014, 08:50 PM   #24
ChrisCarlock
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Make sure your Rig is on a level surface when refilling.


NOTE!

Do not drain without removing the radiator cap.


I did this and only like a gallon came out.


Two gallons remained in the system and created an air pocket when I refilled on a level surface. This had me freaking confused for like 5 hours.


MAKE SURE YOUR RADIATOR CAP IS OFF WHEN DRAINING.
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Unread 03-18-2014, 09:52 PM   #25
munsterrman
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Thanks for all the replys back. Started to troubleshoot and put a house thermometer in the radiator to take the actual temp, temp was stable at 200 deg. and never got hotter. Jerry rigged the old broken temp gauge and what do you know. Temp gauge was right between the "H" and "C" unfortunetly I cant reuse the old gauge. I was reading on other posts that I can mess with a tab on my rugged ridge Omix Ada, made in china temp gauge in order to work properly. Does anyone know of this? If so can you explain. It's pegging out all the way past the "H" mark when engine is operating normal.
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Unread 03-18-2014, 10:31 PM   #26
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There are several write ups on problems with Jeep Fuel / Temp gauges and trouble shooting , can't remember which one but one has a resistor in it and powers up the other.
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Unread 05-25-2014, 05:27 PM   #27
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I have an overheating problem on a fresh build. Correct water pump, new radiator, 180 degree stat (facing correct way), new hoses, new 16pound cap, everything. Gets up to 210 & I shut er down. Been burping it for like two days-confused and concerned. Bypassed heater core to eliminate that as a possibility today, same problem. Lower radiator hose not even getting warm, upper is very hot. Pulled water pump & stat-coolant in block & head. Pulled lower radiator hose-coolant from block and radiator. Squeeze any hose on system and I get movement at the radiators fill point. I do have an overflow tank-tried with cap on and off-same result. Looking for help
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Unread 05-25-2014, 05:35 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pelzworld View Post
I have an overheating problem on a fresh build. Correct water pump, new radiator, 180 degree stat (facing correct way), new hoses, new 16pound cap, everything. Gets up to 210 & I shut er down. Been burping it for like two days-confused and concerned. Bypassed heater core to eliminate that as a possibility today, same problem. Lower radiator hose not even getting warm, upper is very hot. Pulled water pump & stat-coolant in block & head. Pulled lower radiator hose-coolant from block and radiator. Squeeze any hose on system and I get movement at the radiators fill point. I do have an overflow tank-tried with cap on and off-same result. Looking for help
Sounds like you have the wrong rotation water pump installed.
Also ck ign timing and for vac leaks(tighten manifold bolts).
LG
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Unread 05-25-2014, 05:38 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pelzworld View Post
I have an overheating problem on a fresh build. Correct water pump, new radiator, 180 degree stat (facing correct way), new hoses, new 16pound cap, everything. Gets up to 210 & I shut er down. Been burping it for like two days-confused and concerned. Bypassed heater core to eliminate that as a possibility today, same problem. Lower radiator hose not even getting warm, upper is very hot. Pulled water pump & stat-coolant in block & head. Pulled lower radiator hose-coolant from block and radiator. Squeeze any hose on system and I get movement at the radiators fill point. I do have an overflow tank-tried with cap on and off-same result. Looking for help
Tuning can affect engine temps. A lean mixture will run hot, as will too much timing.

Also, a freshly rebuilt engine will always run hotter, because everything is a little tight.

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Unread 05-25-2014, 10:39 PM   #30
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Put a multimeter on the temp sender wire and one on ground. Then compare to this: http://home.roadrunner.com/~john.str...for_cj_gau.htm
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