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Unread 05-03-2014, 09:53 AM   #1
stgil
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[HOWTO] Borg Warner T5 tear down

First Episode... (Translation take a little bit time, sorry)

Hello, My CJ is running fine for one month now (My overhaul Post >>> HERE <<< will be soon updated too)... I can enjoy it AND I've time to overhaul/replace T5 tranny, the DANA 300 and then... the engine...

For the T5 I have some spare : 2 Borg Warner T5 with special clutch main shaft to fit with RENAULT engines : 14 splines instead of the "regular" 10 splines...



one was produced in 84 ( this marking is located on the housing of the shift forks , but ALSO on the housing itself)



85 ... in the other



There are other differences ...



As the pivot screw of the reverse and 5th selector : Torx for the 85 ...



6 sections nut for the 84 ...



There is also an identification tag 85 on the T5 ...



I made sure they had the same ratio and they have both an overdrive
This is from a 84 J5R engine (Gas) , the other 85 a ... J8S engine (Diesel)

I'm quite sure you don't have theses ratios with your US engine!
Anyway the 1th gear with the 4.56 axle ratio, and the ~2.62 of the 4Lo of the DANA 300 and the hi torque at idle of the diesel engine...
YOU CAN'T STALL AT IDLE EVEN IN A 30% HILL!



Starting tear down with unscrewing the 10x 10mm screws ...



you will notice that there are two special set screw (both at the diagonal opposite) here is one of them:



continues by 5 screws 13mm gear selector ...
BUT FIRST THING TO DO: SET THE LEVER TO NEUTRAL



who took the water ... I would say salt water for sure...



detail of the rusted inside (thanks god, the other T5 is in pretty good condition!):



and releases the pin :



thereby partialy uncoupling the housing forks ( do not try to remove at this stage: it is impossible )



we took the opportunity to remove the mass selector with its pin (which must be removed AND replaced! ), its spring and ball ...



we must then disassemble all screws 15mm and the side cover ... WARNING there is a trap ... !!



a 13mm screw ... which is below and on the opposite side



a very light knock of mallet to disengage ...



here ... My god ! we can see some gears!!!!!



next episode ... soon

hehe! that's teasing...

Regards,

Gilles

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Unread 05-03-2014, 12:15 PM   #2
stgil
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Episode #2 !

the inside ... we discover the 5th pinion and his selector 'n' fork...




Time to keep these three parts which are mounted "flying "




because they are pressed by the side cover like this:

Note the "notch" on the side for good lubrication :



for the record ... this is what I found instead in the second T5 ...




detail : luckily I have not mounted as is! ! thanks gods NO more break parts!



But back to our main case , we will be able to release the fork covers by PUSHING laterally :



and opened like this:



Here are the shaft selector and the forks...







Forks... forks and forks...

But you're'n't there to eat ... you are there to see the Geeeeeeaaaaars :

.. finally here ...



Synchros are in good condition ... no abnormal wear or broken gears ...




ditto in the second box ... you can see the difference of the used oil ...
FYI, the two boxes were NOT with recommended oil DEXTRON II , one of the two was the presence of "mayonnaise"/ mud, probably due to immersion in water: roll:
Fortunately he seems to be without serious consequences ! But we will check EVERY bearings races too...




it's time to unpin pin fork Sync 5th ...



Note the wooden blocks placed under the fork to avoid to kill the rod selector:




With that done you can remove the fork AND the player sync 5th (I'm not sure of the term! ):




Be carefull to three keys which will fall certainly since they are not longer retained by the ring ...



end of the episode!

To be continued...

Stay tuned!

Regards,

Gilles
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Unread 05-03-2014, 01:59 PM   #3
walkerhoundvm
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Here is how my T5 tear down went:

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Unread 05-08-2014, 12:23 PM   #4
stgil
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Thanks for your support, walkerhoundvm ! Of course, I will do a post about the T5 Rebuild too ...

Episode #2 done (see above) ... Episode #3 coming soon (One week, One episode is that enough ?) ... IF you're interested...

Regards,

Gilles
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Unread 05-08-2014, 01:00 PM   #5
CSP
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I was thinking along the lines of bullets and explosives to tear one down.
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Unread 05-10-2014, 10:09 AM   #6
stgil
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Episode #3...

voilą ...



is dropped the circlip ...



and washer that is behind ...



which frees the hub with 3 keys ...



sync itself generally recognizable by its color ...



and finally the 5th gear is in perfect condition! (all the races of the shaft too: good news!)



and here this little world back together outside ...



It is time to remove the washer of pivot selector ...
( This washer should be changed (like all others) at each disassembly !)



and it is time to light a small lighter

and enjoy ... in order to heat the EDGE (of course without exaggeration ) of the pivot selector : in fact it is mounted with brake thread(Loctite blue)/RTV sealant : do not bother to try to unscrew WITHOUT heat ... niet !



(quickly) then... with the appropriate Torx , we loose it...



so we can remove the spring of the rod without hurting hands...



voila ...



and you can also remove the rod selector 5th , was in first turn (1) the rod to release the nipple (green arrow) from its housing and finally pull it (2) ...

The rest of linkage which is inside the housing will be released later when the main shaft will be down...



it's time to drop the front cover with 4 screws 15mm :



the front cover can be released with use of a hammer ( as gently as possible : all deformations makes it unusable ) ... the manual indicates that it is necessary to identify how the casing was installed ... I do not seen reason to refit ... but I mention it !



Next episode soon...

Stay tuned,

Regards,

Gilles
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Unread 05-13-2014, 01:37 AM   #7
stgil
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Episode #4...

then you can remove the cover ...



gets there ... ( it came with me ) a washer/shim and cup bearing of the clutch shaft :



and it is time to remove the clutch shaft ... a little rewind to identify this part (red arrow) of the shaft:



this curved portion must coincide (by turning the clutch shaft) with the shape of the secondary shaft gear ... prerequisite for releasing the clutch shaft :



here ... we can distinguish well the annular bearing and roller bearing ...



is happening on the other side of the casing to retrieve the cup bearing the main shaft ...



and we release the shaft by passing GENTLY inside ...



and can FINALLY recover the rest of the linkage 5th / reverse gear ...



outside ...



I KNOW this is not that you want to see ...

But rather this:

on your left bottom you can guess the magnetic pellet which do her/his? job!



because of this :



do not panic it can be replaced and found easely !

But back on topic :

just before continue our disassembly, it is ensured that the drive shaft had no trouble inspecting the bearing race ... which is IMPECCABLE !

If it had not been the case , we could have the room machined to accept a bearing instead of roller ... but we will talk later ...



But back to the case ... it is time to remove the secondary shaft and began to remove the clip on the outside of the housing ...



take care to NOT scratch the bearing/Gear race!



behind is a thick washer , which also put away ...



then to the press shop to exit the lower bearing ...

The picture is not very clear :
DO NOT PRESS IN alignement OF THE secondary SHAFT You will release the 2 bearing at a time and will be (quite) IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE THE AXE !

BUT BY PRESSING BY THE HOLE RELEASED BY THE MAIN SHAFT, AND BASED ON THE GEAR of the secundary shaft (as careful as possible ... but it is a press...):



Next episode coming soon...

Stay tuned...

Regards,

Gilles
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Unread 05-13-2014, 11:35 AM   #8
LumpyGrits
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FYI-Dextron ATF is no longer the oil of choice for the BW Jeep T5.
AMC learned this in the early 1980s when T5s were get'n burned up with the use of ATF.
Today-The best choice for oil is a syn 75W-90 gear oil.
Thanks for the great write-up and pictures!
Respectfully,
LG
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Unread 05-13-2014, 12:16 PM   #9
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
FYI-Dextron ATF is no longer the oil of choice for the BW Jeep T5.
AMC learned this in the early 1980s when T5s were get'n burned up with the use of ATF.
Today-The best choice for oil is a syn 75W-90 gear oil.
Thanks for the great write-up and pictures!
Respectfully,
LG
Thanks! I know that my english is a bit poor ... But it's a great compliment!

And of course : Thanks for your correction!

Do you have more information about that oil change...a note , a ref. and so on...?
It's for my personal information..

Regards,

Gilles
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Unread 05-13-2014, 12:35 PM   #10
LumpyGrits
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Your English, is much better than my French
This may help on the lube oil issue--
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...ansmission-T-5
All I use is 75W-90 syn. in my T5.
I also live in the Mojave Desert in California. We see temps from +teens* to 110*+ in summer.
Been run'n and rebuilding Jeep T5's for many years.
BTW-The 'World-Class' T5 used in the Mustang is made to use ATF. NOT the JEEP T5.
LG
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Unread 05-21-2014, 07:20 AM   #11
stgil
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Episode #5!

...and the bearing is released fairly easily ...



thereby leave the secondary shaft by releasing its bearing / pellet with lateral movement ...



and you can remove the bearing / pellet output shaft with the press shop, FYI : it can be out in both directions without problem, but the external solution is by far the simplest !



who did not release easely as other ... because the part was rusty ... this explains it ...



oh! beautiful rolls !



and now all these part together again out of the housing ...



there remains only the reverse shaft ...



pin is removed ...



and a small hammer to release the shaft outwards ...




voila ...



and details ... the shaft, the gear reverse gear , and an O-ring ... for the record ... the gear has no bearing only lubrication ...

=> reverse T5 is not made for TOWING A LOT AND LONG TIME!



a small photo to show that the magnetic pad the bottom of the casing is tough ...

The screw that I put there is not moving, even vertically !



2 holes fill / drain :





voila ...



and on the other side ... the reverse switch... can be removed with a 22mm socket that can not be invented !




and voila ...



a small picture together ...



Next episode will be the FINAL one ...I guess... by releasing gears/bearings/stuffs out of shafts...

See you soon at the press shop and other nice tools

Regards,

Gilles
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Unread 05-21-2014, 10:26 AM   #12
LumpyGrits
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THX
Do you know how many miles on this transmission?
LG
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Unread 05-21-2014, 11:14 AM   #13
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
THX
Do you know how many miles on this transmission?
LG
For this one Nope ... I don't know... She is out of a CJ from ~15 years ... I would say ~140000-150000 Km (80000-85000 miles) MAX....

But about the one with the orange/yellow oil, she has ~120000Km (75000 miles) quite sure: I've seen the (working) speedo of the donor !

Regards,

Gilles
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Unread 05-21-2014, 11:27 AM   #14
Ken4444
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Gilles,

Thank you for sharing the photos and taking the time to put together this post.
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Unread 05-21-2014, 11:47 AM   #15
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Gilles,

Thank you for sharing the photos and taking the time to put together this post.
You're welcome Ken4444...A passion is done to be shared!


If you want sentences a bit englisher friendly , please, correct me: I shall not take it wrong: it will teach me!

Regards,

Gilles
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