HOWTO: AMC 20 OEM TRAC-LOK dismount/mount - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 34 Old 06-27-2011, 11:08 AM
benullman
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No welding the spiders for me. I wants a regular trac-lock for the streets. I understand the whole spooled/welded thing. I was just curious if the dana 44 scout track lock was the same or if there was another procedure because the spiders have some cracked teeth and need rebuilding

Ben


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post #17 of 34 Old 06-27-2011, 11:35 AM
82JeepCJ7
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I loved my welded up crap-lok so much that when I built my Dana 60 rear, I put a full spool in it. Sure makes the Jeep track strait going down the road. It barks a little on tight corners but not too bad.

Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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post #18 of 34 Old 06-27-2011, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benullman View Post
No welding the spiders for me. I wants a regular trac-lock for the streets. I understand the whole spooled/welded thing. I was just curious if the dana 44 scout track lock was the same or if there was another procedure because the spiders have some cracked teeth and need rebuilding

Ben
If you're talking about a DANA 44 of CJ, it looks like the same than a AMC 20 look at >>> HERE <<<

So same tip/hack

Gilles

FULL DANA 30 REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj7-dana-30-full-rebuilt-setup-part-i-1121189
'82 CJ7 LAREDO REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/82-cj7-laredo-diesel-restoration-1179198/
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post #19 of 34 Old 06-27-2011, 01:03 PM
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benullman View Post
No welding the spiders for me. I wants a regular trac-lock for the streets. I understand the whole spooled/welded thing. I was just curious if the dana 44 scout track lock was the same or if there was another procedure because the spiders have some cracked teeth and need rebuilding

Ben
Depends on year. There were some changes, but I don't know exactly what changes or what years those changes came into effect.

Spline count on axles might be different for the side gears also...
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post #20 of 34 Old 06-27-2011, 05:45 PM
FLynes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
"Track Lock" is AMC's version of a 'Posi', like 'Posi-Trac' was GM's.
Even though they used the same differentials from the same companies, they gave them different 'Marketing' names...
Mopar also used the name Trac-Lok; I had a Dodge Ram with 4.10:1 Trac-Lok Dana 80.

Dana Spicer was the manufacturer of the Trac-Lok and came up with the name, if anyone cares.

Fred

Fred
Retired Army Guy

High Plains Drifter
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post #21 of 34 Old 06-28-2011, 03:15 AM Thread Starter
stgil
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Checking runout...

The runout of the cage must be checked:
and must NOT exceed 0.002" !!! (0.05mm) Otherwise the backlash can't be set



Mine does not exceed 0.03mm (~+0.001")

FULL DANA 30 REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj7-dana-30-full-rebuilt-setup-part-i-1121189
'82 CJ7 LAREDO REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/82-cj7-laredo-diesel-restoration-1179198/
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post #22 of 34 Old 08-29-2011, 11:49 AM
DUX4LIFE
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Old post I know but I wanted to say thanks for making the picture tutorial. It convinced me I could do it myself and it was much simpler than I believed. One question though, originally I only had very little resistance with the old clutch packs (one hand could hold the axle shaft and my teenage son could turn the other). Now I need to use a crowbar on each end of the axle shaft but I can still get it to break free, How much resistance should I have?

A Nation of Sheep Breeds a Government of Wolves!
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post #23 of 34 Old 08-30-2011, 02:29 AM Thread Starter
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DUX4LIFE View Post
Old post I know but I wanted to say thanks for making the picture tutorial. It convinced me I could do it myself and it was much simpler than I believed. One question though, originally I only had very little resistance with the old clutch packs (one hand could hold the axle shaft and my teenage son could turn the other). Now I need to use a crowbar on each end of the axle shaft but I can still get it to break free, How much resistance should I have?
You're Welcome!

This is quite normal ! (mine too was hard to turn but not with a crowbar )

By the way, do you have put some oil on each washer of the new clutch pack ?

Regards,

Gilles

FULL DANA 30 REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj7-dana-30-full-rebuilt-setup-part-i-1121189
'82 CJ7 LAREDO REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/82-cj7-laredo-diesel-restoration-1179198/
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post #24 of 34 Old 01-15-2015, 09:49 AM
bobbysjeep
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Thanks for this tread stgil! If I mark the ring gear, bearing caps, etc, and just replace the friction plates and spider gears then reassemble with everything in the same orientation and have no carrier runout. Do i still have to re-shim the backlash? Considering tackling myself and have never set gears. I would be reusing the old bearings, gears, and carrier housing.
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post #25 of 34 Old 01-15-2015, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbysjeep View Post
Thanks for this tread stgil! If I mark the ring gear, bearing caps, etc, and just replace the friction plates and spider gears then reassemble with everything in the same orientation and have no carrier runout. Do i still have to re-shim the backlash? Considering tackling myself and have never set gears. I would be reusing the old bearings, gears, and carrier housing.
Hello,

As far as I know, you can do that by marking EVERYTHING and put together at the same place...

FYI: removing carrier's bearing is not needed for this operation : keep them safe and clean. Keep in mind IF you do that anyway, there is good luck you destroy the bearing during remove operation (VERY VERY tight!)

I've a post about this operation but it's in french for the moment... but google translation is your friend: >>> HERE <<<

Regards,

Gilles

FULL DANA 30 REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj7-dana-30-full-rebuilt-setup-part-i-1121189
'82 CJ7 LAREDO REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/82-cj7-laredo-diesel-restoration-1179198/
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post #26 of 34 Old 03-16-2015, 06:58 AM
77amc
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Good morning.
I've been doing searches and searches about the 20 rear ends and have a '81 Cherokee w/t. Got under there and scraped and found the "BB" code (supposedly a 3.31/trac-lok) but don't see the 'other' cross pin looking thing going through the carrier.

The vehicle is at a buds shop and can't just go out back and take another look.
SO, are there any other ways to tell if it's a trac-lok?
Inside of the spiders that slide on the axles themselves, it looks like a thin 'notched' crown and don't know if these are an 'upgrade/revision' from amc/jeep.

I'll try and upload pics to my imageshack and post what I have.

Thanks E
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post #27 of 34 Old 03-16-2015, 07:39 AM
77amc
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Here's a couple pics.. Can you notice the little 'notches' in the inner sides of the spider gears?
E

http://imageshack.com/a/img908/2449/ozPHoK.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img540/6105/td1GkB.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img909/9063/KX5QGz.jpg
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post #28 of 34 Old 03-16-2015, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77amc View Post
Good morning.
I've been doing searches and searches about the 20 rear ends and have a '81 Cherokee w/t. Got under there and scraped and found the "BB" code (supposedly a 3.31/trac-lok) but don't see the 'other' cross pin looking thing going through the carrier.

The vehicle is at a buds shop and can't just go out back and take another look.
SO, are there any other ways to tell if it's a trac-lok?
Inside of the spiders that slide on the axles themselves, it looks like a thin 'notched' crown and don't know if these are an 'upgrade/revision' from amc/jeep.

I'll try and upload pics to my imageshack and post what I have.

Thanks E
You won't have the 'other' cross pin looking thing in your axle. The fsj model 20 axles are not of the weak 2 piece design like the cj's. The part you do not have was a thrust block to keep the 2 piece axles in place.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #29 of 34 Old 03-16-2015, 07:57 PM
77amc
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Well PRAISE GOD!!
Do you know how many (somewhat) useless threads I had to read to get to THIS TRUTH?
Even most all the 'images' that I googled don't even elude to this..
I don't even remember reading it in Wiki.

You just saved me hours and even weeks of work. (but, was kinda wanting to know how this 14bolt was going to 'feel' like though...)

Now, I've looked into rebuild 'kits' and don't want some goober selling me the wrong parts.
Who might be called that WILL know what I need for a re-fresh? I really don't want to pay for just a NAME brand, just good quality
and by the way I'm planning on using the Jeep, should last for another 20+yrs. (unless it poops out)

Thanks again guys.
Errol
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post #30 of 34 Old 05-26-2015, 08:37 AM
matt1980
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I will be replacing the clutch disks in my rear end soon and have looked at all the pictures, my question is that I see a feeler guage being used, looks like it is headed for the back side of one of the spider gears. Is it just being used to get the washer out or is there a clearance that is being checked there? I also see a 50mm od measurement on the washers being used, anyone know what size washer they are or will I be doing some grinder work on a slightly larger washer, or does it have to be exactly 50mm? I have 3.08 gears, does the ring gear need to come off? Will be the first time I will be doing work inside the diff so anything I need to look out for? Thank you all for your help and great pictures.
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