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Unread 06-27-2011, 03:42 AM   #1
stgil
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HOWTO: AMC 20 OEM TRAC-LOK dismount/mount

Hello,

Dismounting Trac-lok

pics are better than words







































to be continued...

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Unread 06-27-2011, 03:51 AM   #2
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To be continued...
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FULL DANA 30 REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj7-dana-30-full-rebuilt-setup-part-i-1121189
'82 CJ7 LAREDO REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/82-cj7-laredo-diesel-restoration-1179198/
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Unread 06-27-2011, 03:51 AM   #3
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FULL DANA 30 REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj7-dana-30-full-rebuilt-setup-part-i-1121189
'82 CJ7 LAREDO REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/82-cj7-laredo-diesel-restoration-1179198/
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Unread 06-27-2011, 04:03 AM   #4
stgil
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Mounting Trac-lok:







































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FULL DANA 30 REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj7-dana-30-full-rebuilt-setup-part-i-1121189
'82 CJ7 LAREDO REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/82-cj7-laredo-diesel-restoration-1179198/
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Unread 06-27-2011, 04:04 AM   #5
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FULL DANA 30 REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj7-dana-30-full-rebuilt-setup-part-i-1121189
'82 CJ7 LAREDO REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/82-cj7-laredo-diesel-restoration-1179198/
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Unread 06-27-2011, 04:04 AM   #6
stgil
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That's all folks!!

Regards,

Gilles
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FULL DANA 30 REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj7-dana-30-full-rebuilt-setup-part-i-1121189
'82 CJ7 LAREDO REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/82-cj7-laredo-diesel-restoration-1179198/
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Unread 06-27-2011, 06:57 AM   #7
JeepHammer
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VERY GOOD PICTURES!
If you don't mind, I'm adding that one to the archives for new guys...

Using the axle sticking up out of the vice is a good way NOT to chase things all over the work bench...
Outstanding Idea I would have never thought to include in the pictures.
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Unread 06-27-2011, 07:00 AM   #8
82JeepCJ7
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Mine was welded solid with E309L welding rod. Best mod to a crap-lok ever!
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Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

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Unread 06-27-2011, 07:29 AM   #9
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
Mine was welded solid with E309L welding rod. Best mod to a crap-lok ever!
Best thing I can tell you when you make a 'Spool' by welding is to scribe or paint a strip longways on your axles...
That way, you can keep track of how badly they twist during operation...

"CRAP-LOCK",

Consider your copyright infringed, I'm stealing that one!
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Unread 06-27-2011, 07:37 AM   #10
82JeepCJ7
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Had a Warn Full Float kit in it. Never any issues. The stock 2pc axles would have never made it out of the driveway. It served me well for over 10 years until I swapped the Dana 60 in. The axle is now under another CJ7 and he wheels it every weekend.
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Unread 06-27-2011, 07:53 AM   #11
John Strenk
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So timely, Need this info right now also....
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Unread 06-27-2011, 08:37 AM   #12
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
VERY GOOD PICTURES!
If you don't mind, I'm adding that one to the archives for new guys...
Hello JeepHammer,

You're very welcome

Thanks for your GREAT idea

I'm preparing a tool post: every tools needed for a restoration/rebuild...

Regards,

Gilles
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Unread 06-27-2011, 10:22 AM   #13
JeepHammer
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"Every Tool Needed For A Jeep Rebuild" is pretty much every tool at SEARS and some they don't have...

I've found it's a good plan to add $50 to $100 to any "Big Job" budget beyond parts for 'Specialty Tools',
Tubing Cutter and Flaring Tool, and a GOOD set of 'Line Wrenches' for brake jobs,
A set of 'Brake Pliers' and backing plate spring tool helps too.

Don't dive into a front wheel bearing/spindle service without a seal driver, spindle nut socket and spindle puller.

If you do ball joints, you can 'Rent' one of those 'One Size Fits Nothing' 'C' clamp type presses...

A Foot-Pound Torque Wrench is MANDATORY, doesn't have to be an 'Expensive' one, Sears is fine, but don't get a 'Harbor Freight' torque wrench, they are ALWAYS WRONG...

----------------------------


I've not had to take off the ring gear to rebuild the clutch pack...
Did you do that for better pictures?

You didn't show taking the bearings off the carrier, or putting them back on, also not necessary for changing clutches...
I ALWAYS check for backlash when I remove/replace bearings...
Not all bearings are created equal in tolerance, so checking backlash with a dial indicator is always a good idea when you replace bearings.

For your tag line links,
If you put a [url] in front of your link, then a [/url[ (Turn the last bracket around to match the front tag brackets) your links will be 'Clicky'
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Unread 06-27-2011, 10:34 AM   #14
benullman
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would a Scout Dana 44 trac-lock (crap-lock?) be rebuild the same way? Got one that needs new spiders in it.

This is great!

Ben
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Unread 06-27-2011, 10:47 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benullman View Post
would a Scout Dana 44 trac-lock (crap-lock?) be rebuild the same way? Got one that needs new spiders in it.

This is great!

Ben
"Track Lock" is AMC's version of a 'Posi', like 'Posi-Trac' was GM's.
Even though they used the same differentials from the same companies, they gave them different 'Marketing' names.

The PROPER NAME IS 'LIMITED SLIP' for this type of differential.

The guy that 'Welded' the differential made it a 'Crap Lock' by removing the housings' ability to relieve 'Differential Stresses' from turning and one wheel turning faster than the other.
You don't need a 'Limited Slip' differential carrier to weld it up, any carrier will do.

The 'Limited Slip' part comes in because the clutches allow *Some* power to be transfered to the wheel WITH traction.
With an 'Open' differential, the power is transfered to the wheel with the LEAST traction,
Thats why an 'Open' differential just spins the wheel in the mud, while your tire on the gravel/pavement does NOTHING...

The 'Limited Slip' differential usually has some device or another that applies SOME of the engine torque to the wheel WITH traction so you don't get stuck as easily.

A good LSD (Limited Slip Differential) with 'Tight' clearances, or even preloaded a little (Springs on the clutch packs) will do VERY GOOD at adding power to both wheels, just not a 50/50 assignment of power.

I'm a little lost here...
If you are going to 'Weld' up the spider gears, why replace them?
Welding to connect axles together and the housing is what a 'Crap Lock' is, A 'Home Made' spool... Or so I thought...
The clutch type Dana Differentials used in Jeeps work quite well when properly maintained...
The clutches DO wear quite quickly (Lots of power going through them and they are SMALL),
But when they are working correctly, the really pull well...

When you weld up the spider gears to the drive gears, then weld all that to the diff carrier,
Both axles drives welded directly to the case, no side to side differential action at all anymore. You twist axles. Fact of life.

Differential in speeds of the tires as you go around corners, curves, ect.
When the housing is welded up to the axle drives, the tires have to slip traction on the pavement to unload the differential torque between wheels,
Or the axles have to twist, loading and unloading, taking and releasing the differential in torque/rotation between the tires.

A 'Posi' lets the differential in wheel speeds release, but still gives you SOME torque to the wheel with traction, instead of sending it all to the wheel that DOES NOT have traction like an 'Open' differential does.

If you are welding (Crap-Lock! I love that Description! ) you are connecting both axles directly to the drive shaft, no differential action at all.

-------------------------

There are three basic types of 'Posi' in use today,

The 'Clutch' type shown in the thread (Obviously),
And clutches usually make them work for a while...
All depends on clearances for the clutch packs and if you add the proper 'Friction Modifier' to the gear lubricant...
("Posi-Lube" Additive)

A 'Forcing Cone' type where just plain friction is used on larger 'Cone' shaped side drives, usually found in 60s and early 70s GM vehicles,
There is usually no rebuilding these, they haven't made parts for YEARS, and the bores for the cones are usually worn out to the point of uselessness.
I HATED these! When I was young, they were in the shop CONSTANTLY because the forcing cone would jam in the tapered bore and cause all sorts of driveability problems, broken axle shafts, ect.

And the 'Thorsen-Gleeson' type that uses a series of spiral cut gears to deliver some power to the wheel with traction.
(These include 'True Track' differentials)

I LOVE these!
If they are set up correctly, you get about 30% to 40% of torque delivered to the wheel with traction without the 'Locking/Unlocking' you get with 'Lockers',
Operation is so smooth you won't know it's in there on the highway, no 'Pops, Clicks, Whine, Jerks' and no switching ends in traffic when you get on the throttle while turning!

No silly lube additives, and they last as long as the rest of the vehicle with no changing clutches, ect., Just service like it was an open diff and they are happy!
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