[Grey-CJ]

HeavyIron you might have a Cali version, there is a Cali version and non Cali version. My CJ came from the west and has the Cali version Howell system. But the pics would be great I would love to get this idle better. Thanks

[atomicflatulenc]

My idle screw is already visible.

Everything is in! Not pretty, but I'll take care of that later. It was not an impressive first start though.

I've got problems. I think I stripped one of the holes on the TBI adaptor plate. I was tightening them down (not cranking on them) and all of sudden one of them got looser. I just stopped and tried to move the TBI, and it didn't budge. So I moved on.

I have a rats nest of wiring to straighten, but that's not much of a problem. It's tougher than I thought to figure what side of stuff the run you wiring.

Not sure what to do about a power connection for the whole system, for my test start I connected directly to the battery.

Here's the funny part. The day before I moved the CJ to the work zone, I had left the key in the on position overnight. So I jumped it and let it run. It stalled after fifteen minutes, and i restarted. Stalled again after a few mintues. I cursed the carb a few times and bid it farewell.

When I went to start last night...check engine light was on and steady as it was supposed to be...heard the fuel pump engage...and cranked away. Directions said not to worry. It had to prime itself. After about 5 good tries, the battery was shot.

On the ride to work, I realized something. I'm out of gas too! That's why it was stalling when I was trying to let it run to charge the battery. It also explains why when I cut the fuel line last night, nothing came out! It was dark so I called it a night. Maybe with some gas and a charged battery, it might start better!

[atomicflatulenc]

anyone know what color the engine temp sensor wire is? I saw a disconnected elbow thing and didn't know what it was for, I must have knocked it off when I was wiring the TBI. I pushed it into a wire bundle wrap thing and now I can't find the dang thing? Where does it come out of the firewall?

[Fatman]

It's purple:


#1

[Mike Romain]

Just an FYI about clearances up top there, don't forget the engine will move at 'least' an inch in either direction at the carb when you get on the go pedal. The torque will twist the engine considerably so you need more than 'just' enough clearance on that throttle arm.

[atomicflatulenc]

Thanks Fatman.

and

That's a real good point about the throttle arm. I've got it set up right in the middle of my air cleaner and Brake Booster. Only about an inch each way. Hope its enough.

What about that bolt that went loose? My best option is probably get a new adaptor plate. Any better option?

For the main power for the all system, I saw a red wire with a white stripe, its pretty thick compared to all the otherwires under the steering column. Is that the one I need to tie into? I wish I could get the dash off. My full cage make that really difficult. Is there a better option? I think cutting, stripping, soldering, and shrink wrapping would be difficult in that space. I was considering the direct connect to the battery with a toggle switch, but would rather hardwire it somewhere.

[Beer man]

I wired my Howell using that red/white stripe wire and all is good.

[atomicflatulenc]

Originally Posted by Beer man

I wired my Howell using that red/white stripe wire and all is good.

Just cut, twist and tape? I've only spliced less important stuff, and I'm thinking this should be done better than my usual method...

[Fatman]

Main power, I either spliced off 13F or came directly off the Ign post of the starter solenoid.
All in all it's the same circuit, just feed it into the cab through the old computer hole.

You can set your main fuse block anywhere, I chose inside the cab as it's not a sealed setup (see post 9 above)

[HeavyIron]

If you do tie into the red/white wire under the dash you should double check it with a test light while cranking the engine over. I have more than one large red/white wire under there and one goes dead during cranking.

[atomicflatulenc]

sounds like running the power to the ignition post of the starter seleniod would be the easiest route. I looked around the steering column again last night. I just can't commit to cutting one of those wires. I don't know anyhting about the starter or starter seleniod yet. Which post is the right one to attach to? I think there are a few redundant wires going to my starter too. How many wires should be attached to the starter selenoid and what posts? PO had ground wires running everywhere, and never removed anything. just added more.

[atomicflatulenc]

So...I am completely set up. All wires put away neatly. Tapped into the correct power wire around the steering column. Had a helluva time soldering under there, and it didn't looked pretty. Just taped it up really good.

Now I have a new problem...actually two.

The check engine light comes on while idling. Code 45 comes up. Too rich. Brainstorming possible problems, I come up with three...

1. On first start, there was a lot of white smoke. Tailpipe and coming out of not so welded crimp in downpipe. Right by the O2 sensor.

2. There was a bent thingy on one of the injectors on the top, I straightened it a little.

3. I forget. But I'll remember soon...

The alernator is screaming. IDK if its the bearings or could it be more draw from the Howell is doing something?

[atomicflatulenc]

Oh yea!

3. Saw a drip of something coming from the vacuum hose off the PCV valve.

[Mike Romain]

I would 'carefully' feel the alternator after a few seconds of running. If it is getting really hot, then it needs to be addressed. Sometimes a thump with a hammer is needed after they sit also.... If that helps, expect to need a new one pretty soon, it means brushes were stuck which usually only happens to worn ones. their wear dust gums up.

The load on the alternator might be affecting the FI, it can be a heavy load.

The PCV line is a crankcase vent that sucks off condensation loaded air. White smoke is also condensation as long as it stops when it warms up....

[dawgates]

In reading your post, you and I started out with the same problem, stalling out on the rocks. It wasn't very fun after more then a few times and the battery went dead. I switched to the Howell system on my 360 after that affair.
And I'll be the first to admit, it works great!
Just a suggestion, Keep the K&N air filter! The Edelbrock bicycle seat filter looks cool, but doesn't filter air very well. It will allow particles smaller the a baseball into the air intake. If you take a good look, you can see through the filter.
I see that I'm not the only person who had a problem drilling out the idle screw, looks just like mine.