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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Howell TBI install
After stalling out on OK's rockpile a few times, I started the install Sunday.
What did I get myself into! There are so many parts that I can't figure out what they all are. This is gonna take a while. Stuff's coming out. Old mechanical fuel pump. ![]() Block off plate on. ![]() O2 sensor out. ![]() New O2 in. ![]() New Coolant temp sensor. ![]() ![]() Carb out of the way. ![]()
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-Peter- '85 CJ7, 258 4.2 Howell TBI, NP435, twin sticked Dana300, 4.56 Yukons, ARB rear locker/Detroit EZ front, 3.5" BDS YJ springs, 35" Trxus M/T's, Alloy Axles '96 ZJ DD 204K 2"BB 31's on Moab's '03 KJ wife's DD -NJJA- -NJJC- |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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On to the wiring...
Carb out (For Sale if I get the FI working) ![]() What a mess. ![]() ![]() Wiring mess removed. ![]() Adaptor plate on. ![]() This is the throttle thing with a plate I removed. The piece sticking out with the groove on it is making contact on the nut for the Booster. ![]() ![]() It just clears the Booster. The the gasket installed on the TBI its gonna be even closer. I'm gonna just cut it off. I don't think its necessary for anything. It's not used anywhere in my directions. ![]() I'm trying to make a bracket that will clear everything. Then I realized it also has to let the gas pedal have full travel, so my design isn't right. At least I figured this out with cardboard before making it out of metal. That's my other issue...no scrap metal. I have some leftover diamond plate. I'd rather use some thing that isn't as soft as the aluminum diamond plate.
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-Peter- '85 CJ7, 258 4.2 Howell TBI, NP435, twin sticked Dana300, 4.56 Yukons, ARB rear locker/Detroit EZ front, 3.5" BDS YJ springs, 35" Trxus M/T's, Alloy Axles '96 ZJ DD 204K 2"BB 31's on Moab's '03 KJ wife's DD -NJJA- -NJJC- |
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#3 |
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This is the old plate that hit everywhere. I can't even get it on to show you because it hits everything.
![]() ![]() Empty glove box. Gotta put the computer in tomorrow. ![]() And a new tach to help get this thing idling at the right rpm's. ![]()
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-Peter- '85 CJ7, 258 4.2 Howell TBI, NP435, twin sticked Dana300, 4.56 Yukons, ARB rear locker/Detroit EZ front, 3.5" BDS YJ springs, 35" Trxus M/T's, Alloy Axles '96 ZJ DD 204K 2"BB 31's on Moab's '03 KJ wife's DD -NJJA- -NJJC- |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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What do you guys use to figure out a design for something like what I need? I tried cardboard, but didn't like the results. I'm gonna try aluminum foil this afternoon. I need a good template before trying to make this thing. Is diamond plate going to be ok, or should I look for something tougher?
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-Peter- '85 CJ7, 258 4.2 Howell TBI, NP435, twin sticked Dana300, 4.56 Yukons, ARB rear locker/Detroit EZ front, 3.5" BDS YJ springs, 35" Trxus M/T's, Alloy Axles '96 ZJ DD 204K 2"BB 31's on Moab's '03 KJ wife's DD -NJJA- -NJJC- |
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#5 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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1977 CJ7, AMC360 V8 w/ headers, DUI HEI, Edelbrock intake, Holley 4150 carb, , TF999, D300, D30 front and AMC20 rear with 4.56 gears and lockers both ends, 4" susp lift, 2.5" body lift, 35" BFGs, ARG steering, 8000-lb winch, etc. |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Good idea. I've already got a few of them at home.
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-Peter- '85 CJ7, 258 4.2 Howell TBI, NP435, twin sticked Dana300, 4.56 Yukons, ARB rear locker/Detroit EZ front, 3.5" BDS YJ springs, 35" Trxus M/T's, Alloy Axles '96 ZJ DD 204K 2"BB 31's on Moab's '03 KJ wife's DD -NJJA- -NJJC- |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Another question about the RTV stuff. Says to mound it. Do I let it sit for 4 hours and then put the TBI on, or mound it, put the TBI on and wait for it to cure for 4 hours? I've never used the stuff...newb...but I'm learning...
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-Peter- '85 CJ7, 258 4.2 Howell TBI, NP435, twin sticked Dana300, 4.56 Yukons, ARB rear locker/Detroit EZ front, 3.5" BDS YJ springs, 35" Trxus M/T's, Alloy Axles '96 ZJ DD 204K 2"BB 31's on Moab's '03 KJ wife's DD -NJJA- -NJJC- |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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I didn't follow that step at all during my install. The gasket between the TBI unit and the adapter plate was large enough to cover those 4 bolt heads. I installed it on an 86 CJ7 btw.
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Atomic,
I used a very thin coat over the heads, the gasket does cover them. Few notes: Trim the gaskets. I noticed that they overhung as much as 2mm into the path of the intake. Before you set the TBI, drill out the Idle set screw plug. I just got through doing this & it's a btch doing it installed. DONT! buy your air filter untill you are finished with the install. I've gone through 4 trying to get the right fit. My Vanco was in the way of the filter, not the linkage. Some pics for ya: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Fail 9": ![]() Fail Attempt #3: ![]()
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Mounded RTV as per directions...I don't like it, but that's what it says to do. From all the pictures I've seen, I have a different adaptor plate. The allen head bolts did not fit into the gasket all the way. I hope I didn't mound too much RTV.
![]() My attempt at fabricating. ![]()
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-Peter- '85 CJ7, 258 4.2 Howell TBI, NP435, twin sticked Dana300, 4.56 Yukons, ARB rear locker/Detroit EZ front, 3.5" BDS YJ springs, 35" Trxus M/T's, Alloy Axles '96 ZJ DD 204K 2"BB 31's on Moab's '03 KJ wife's DD -NJJA- -NJJC- |
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#11 |
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GROUND POUNDER
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I'm not familiar with this particular setup but I'd say that's too much silicone. If you're just trying to fill a hole and creat a "leak free" gasket surface, the mound should be just slightly above the level surface so that it will compress when the plate is set on it. If you let that much silicone sit until it hardens, you're probably going to have a hard time cinching something down enough to seal. Also, I'd try not to let the excess silicone run over to the inside of the runner area. Silicone doesn't take kindly to long-term exposure to gasoline and eventually turns into a sort of "slimy gel". That excess silicone can soften, break off and find it's way down thru the intake runner system and into a combustion chamber.
I would've squeezed on slightly less silicone. Then, used my finger to take a quick swipe of silicone.. smoothing it out a bit.
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 3.73s, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s.. Lower 2 Guardrail Down Schoolbus Slickrock Tellico Save Crozet More Crozet |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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The directions actually says to mound 1/4 to 3/8ths of an inch on each allen head bolt. I don't think it looks right either. But they wrote it bold and in caps...???
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-Peter- '85 CJ7, 258 4.2 Howell TBI, NP435, twin sticked Dana300, 4.56 Yukons, ARB rear locker/Detroit EZ front, 3.5" BDS YJ springs, 35" Trxus M/T's, Alloy Axles '96 ZJ DD 204K 2"BB 31's on Moab's '03 KJ wife's DD -NJJA- -NJJC- |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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Let me get this straight about the idle screw, why is there a plug over the screw? Ever since I did my HEI my idle has been high. I looked from the pics that after the plug drilled and the screw was adjusted the was JB weld or some type of epoxy filled back in the hole? Why is the epoxy put in the hole? Is this to stop a vac leak?
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81 CJ-7 HEI,EFI,2.5 BDS,34 Swamper LTB's,A to Z full family cage and those are just the parts that don't have rust! |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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So...after a little research, I think I'm going to remove some of the RTV I put over the allen head bolts and hope for the best.
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-Peter- '85 CJ7, 258 4.2 Howell TBI, NP435, twin sticked Dana300, 4.56 Yukons, ARB rear locker/Detroit EZ front, 3.5" BDS YJ springs, 35" Trxus M/T's, Alloy Axles '96 ZJ DD 204K 2"BB 31's on Moab's '03 KJ wife's DD -NJJA- -NJJC- |
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#15 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
![]() ![]() Another thing that was a little different was the harness/plug that went to the ignition module did not have the purple wire, there were only 3 wires and not 4. The module had 4 wires coming out of it though. I ended up adding a purple wire from the module to the dizzy. |
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