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Unread 11-09-2011, 11:39 AM   #1
Blue83CJ7
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1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
Posts: 596
Howell Install Prep

This is my second Howell install on a CJ... First one was on a 5o state '83 that took me about 8 hours over 2 days, hoping this can be done in 6.

I started spraying everything down with PB Blaster, but one difference on this jeep is the Smog Pump I would like to remove completely.

From the looks of this bolt, it's going to give me trouble, but does anyone know what the deal is with these bolts? Assuming it's not holding the manifold to the block, but are they like the hollow brake caliper bolts to inject air into the manifold?

If I break this bolt trying to remove it, depending on where it breaks, can I just cut the tubes and plug it with JB weld until I get a new manifold?

Looking forward to cleaning this up...






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Unread 11-09-2011, 11:43 AM   #2
Blue83CJ7
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Actually, can I just remove the pump and all the fat hoses and plug this port on the air tube and leave the whole metal part in place until I rebuild the engine next year?

img_8584.jpg
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Unread 11-09-2011, 12:05 PM   #3
1986cj
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They are like a hollow brake caliper bolt, the treaded part is hollow on the inside and they have a hole drilled in the side about 3/16" down from the head. I have a set here that I am looking at now and they don't look much better than yours but the guy I got them from said he had no problem getting them out. Before you take that one apart can you tell me where the vacuum line on the diverter valve goes to on yours? From your first pic it looks like to comes off the diverter valve and may be tees? off then to the carb? Hard to tell from the pic.
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Unread 11-09-2011, 06:22 PM   #4
Blue83CJ7
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THanks.


Not sure what the diverter valve is, but if its the big chunky thing cutoff on the bottom left of the image it goes straight to that bottom left port on the carb... but I wouldn't trust any of my vacuum lines.

For starters, half of them are capped and routed to nowhere, and some just don't exist.


I wanted to try to get mine all back in order, but I couldn't match my setup to any diagrams I could get my hands on, so I assumed it was a mutt, gave up and bought the Fuel injection.


Let me know if you need any of the take-off stuff, you can have it for the cost of shipping.
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Unread 11-09-2011, 11:56 PM   #5
1986cj
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Thanks for the info. I have gathered up all the stuff but save and list yours as some guys are in need if it.
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Unread 11-17-2011, 09:08 AM   #6
Blue83CJ7
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1980 CJ7 
 
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Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
Posts: 596
I got about 15 pounds of crap off my motor but man, I had a rough night last night trying to get the temp sensor and dual CTO installed...

Picked up the BWD EC957 at Kragen for $27.99 (they matched autozone price and had it next day for pickup)

It is almost impossible to get a wrench on the old one due to where it is on the block - manifold above, and some casting web below - so you only have a few degrees to work with a wrench.

I had to eventually break the ports of the old front 2-port CTO to get a socket on there.

Then to get the new CTO in place I had to break up some "crust" that had formed in the water passage to allow it to slide in OK and thankfully didn't have to drill it any bigger but it was a close fit, and definitely bigger/longer than the old one...hopefully this isn't blocking my coolant flow?)

I used Locktite thread sealer to install it, but I couldn't quite crank it down as tight as I wanted to because I couldn't get the wrench on it, and didn't want to strip the nut on the outside. I am hoping I got it tight enough and the locktite will prevent leakage.

Then I did the coolant sensor in the back hole, and there's a little more room to work, but not much better. I also got lucky I guessed and put the CTO up front, because it will only fit in the front hole, since the back hole is much smaller. Put a ton of sealer on that one and installed.

I will re-fill it tonight, and hopefully it doesn't leak and I am done messing with Coolant for a long time.. I HATE having to drain my coolant, I am always worried about accidentally poisoning my dog, my kid or myself since it's never a clean job.

Other things I found I needed for this conversion so far:

1. New Downpipe - The flange was rusted through. I filled the rusty parts with a bunch of tack welds and ground it back to shape. Hoping this with a new gasket will be a temporary fix until I have to pass smog next year

2. New Charcoal Canister - Going to try the 93 Grand Cherokee conversion

3. Air Cleaner - The one howell recommends doesn't fit on an '80... It worked for my '83, but I guess I gotta get one of the snail looking e-bay pieces

Then I get to spend Saturday cleaning up my wiring and hopefully fire it up!
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