There is a bolt in the front of the cam holding the dizzy drive gear, fuel pump eccentric and timing gear on the cam shaft. Remove the bolt and it will slide off. Everything is lined up with a key way. Before you put the new one one, make sure the oil passage on it is clear. There is a roll pin holding the gear on the dizzy shaft, drive out the roll pin, replace gear, replace roll pin
"If your gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough" Build Thread
I was too slow to get the question in before someone posted,
So this is the reason I ask...
What distributor are you running?
If you have changed distributors away from something that came 'Stock' from the factory,
The new distributor could very well be the reason for your gears wearing...
Install height, gear material, gear design. are all important, along with getting the oil system to feed that gear, fuel pump eccentric, timing set, ect.
If it's a new set with a stock distributor, but you have a newer timing set,
You might not be getting enough oil through the top timing sprocket to everything.
If it's an old set on old timing chain, then it's probably just age, and you won't need to do a lot more than just change the gears out,
So once I know how old the timing set is, how many miles on it,
If it's a stock distributor or not,
I can give you a comprehensive answer on how far to get into the front end and what SPECIFICALLY to look for/correct to the same thing doesn't happen to your new gears.
The jeep has 50,000 miles on speedo but its a 1976 model with a 304. Added HEI distributor 2 years ago over about 1000 miles, purchased from O'Riely do not know the manufacture. Added pic's. order new gears from ?
OK, HEI swap,
Check the install height of the old distributor to the new one, push the shafts up in the housings, where the gear contacts the bottom of the housings, and measure the gear install height off the mounting surface where distributor meets housing.
Gear install height is a pretty big deal, so use an accurate ruler,
Check the up and down travel of the shaft to gear gap, somewhere between 0.006" and 0.015" is acceptable.
When you go to change camshaft gear,
You will find a bolt in the end of the camshaft.
When you take the bolt out, you will find the rest self explanatory, the accessories just pull off the camshaft snout.
If the engine has a lot of miles on it, you might want to take the stuff off the camshaft snout (fuel pump eccentric, top timing sprocket) and clean out the oil passage that comes through to oil the distributor gear.
Have a look at the oil pump eccentric, it will tell you if there was a lack of oil to the accessories on the snout through excessive wear, Replace if you find it's un-serviceable.
If you are uncomfortable with taking a timing set loose, then don't do it.
There is a key way and a groove in the upper timing chain sprocket,
The key way is obvious,
The groove is the oil supply to the snout accessories, follow that oil supply through the accessories out to the timing gear and makes sure the little oil hole in the camshaft gear is in the correct place.
Depending on manufacturer/supplier, some of the oil supply holes are omitted entirely, or in the wrong place to connect with the oil passage as it comes down the 'Stack' on the cam snout.
Once the oil holes and worn parts are replaced,
Then reassemble just like you took it apart, replace the bolt,
Use some assembly lube on the friction parts, camshaft gear, fuel pump eccentric, and put your timing cover back on.
One note while the timing cover is off,
If you find more than about 3/4" slop in the timing chain, it's probably time for a new one.
Cloyes makes a TRUE DOUBLE ROLLER unit in the US that is very good,
Any time you have a timing set off, make sure the OIL PASSAGE in that top sprocket is clear!.
Even in factory top sprockets that have worked fine for years, you will find oil crud built up...
And the new ones often come with slag/overcast in the groove that supplies the oil to the accessories,
So take a little round or triangle file to that groove so oil can flow freely to the front accessories.
Okay I'm going to go ahead and replace timing chain set..Since the distributor is already out of the motor, if I place timing gears set back in the same orientation that they are presently and if the chain count is still correct. Hopefully when I drop the dizzy back end I should be where I was when I started the water pump change out, true? I should not need to rotate crank or cam if the oil passage way lines up and they are clean and clear.
Look for the factory sprocket timing marks,
When the #1 piston is up and the timing marks line up, you are golden.
You have a grasp on it,
Make sure the oil passage lines up when you stack things up, and the top sprocket 'Dot' faces directly DOWN on a center line between cam and crank,
('Dots' are sometimes triangles, other times just a mark like someone used a chisel, a 'Slash' mark, but not diagonal)
Make sure the bottom sprocket has the timing mark facing directly UP on a center line between crank and cam,
Put the chain on the two, and slip it on the cam/crank.
Shouldn't be much to it if the 'Dots' on the old one are lined up before you take things off.
If you took the timing set off before you lined up the 'Dots' on the sprocket,
Turn the crank until the #1 piston come up to TDC,
Then put the top sprocket on long enough to turn the camshaft until the dot faces directly down,
And you are ready to install again.
Without a timing chain, there is no difference in the camshaft between 'Compression' and 'Exhaust' stroke since the valves aren't moving, you simply turn the crank, then the camshaft until the 'Dot' faces down, and you are ready to install the new set once chain is on the sprockets.
The keyways will keep you straight after you find TDC and have the top 'Dot' facing down.
Do you have to find #1 TDC or can you just put the lower timing sprocket on the crank and turn it until the dot is towards the cam, which should be TDC?
If there is only one 'Dot', you would be good to go.
But some lower sprockets have more than one dot,
And more than one keyway slot
That's why I usually tell people to find TDC.
Can't miss if you find TDC on #1, since you KNOW you have TDC, then you just find the keyway slot that puts the mark straight up.
I've been reading about propane conversions what's your ideas its for a 304 or I-6 that I have only use locally hunting and ridng with 10 miles of home. open cab design on a cj5 and cj8. kit cost about $500. Are there issues other than safety. disadvantage and advantages Thanks for your help.
I have got her timed between 10 and 5 degrees advance, gapped the plugs to 50, grounded the world, by the word of the junk yard genius info, and she cranks faster than I've ever seen. Added an electric fuel pump along the way, and the oiler modification for the timing chain set and dizzy/cam drive gears. I believe I have one bolt loose on my exhaust manifold "left rear" next to battery tray. Keeps backing off, any ideas on how to keep it tight. how to I change my plug wire confirguration, it's not the best for organization what is the sequence in moving them around the cap without screwing th pooch.
Thank Jeezus, that's what I've been wanting to hear.
Damned if I wouldn't just leave it alone with as much grief as you've had, BUT the hard part's over and you're too close to doing it right.
IMHO, I'd turn the dizzy 180 degrees where the coil plugin would be pointing about at the corner of the rt front fender and use smallblock Chevy wires for a more correct length.
Was it retarded like the pic showed??
If it's good TO you, it's gotta be good FOR you....