[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by vertdog

I am in process of nuttering and have 2 questions. Anyone chime in with answers. First, where can you get new connectors for the igniton module? I just wired the new orange and purple straight to module. Second, my CTO switch only has 2 vacum fittings, the diagrams show 4. Do I just use t's to run my lines. Thanks in advance!

I just used bullet connectors for the ignition module, spade ones would work also.

The 2 port CTO is fine, just T the line after it to feed the canister and the air filter TVS for the EGR.

[theplasterman]

Does anyone have a link or diagram to a Weber 32/36 with a Nutter? I need to make sure I have things hooked up properly.

[apfroggy0408]

The original post says that this is for 1983 cj's and on but Mike Romain says it's for 1982 cj's and on.

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by apfroggy0408

The original post says that this is for 1983 cj's and on but Mike Romain says it's for 1982 cj's and on.

Umm, yes and?

It depends on where you Jeep was made for, even 1980's in some places had some feedback stuff in them....

If your carb has a feedback system or stepper motor on it and an O2 sensor to run this, then the 'nutter' bypass can be done. It can even be done on the 4 bangers and the YJ 258's.

[apfroggy0408]

Just thought the OP might want to fix that in his original post so there's no confusion about it. =D

[jacos89yy]

I just found out about this whole "nutter" buisness and I am curious how (if at all) it applies to my jeep. It's fitted with an aftermarket carb (Weber) and ignition (MSD). If i do end up doing the bypass do I still splice from the factory ignition control or the MSD module? My jeep is spudering and losing power needs some help!!!

I bought the jeep with these mods in it and the don't seem to have been done very well, I am currently left with a maze of hose's and wires that run no where.

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by jacos89yy

I just found out about this whole "nutter" buisness and I am curious how (if at all) it applies to my jeep. It's fitted with an aftermarket carb (Weber) and ignition (MSD). If i do end up doing the bypass do I still splice from the factory ignition control or the MSD module? My jeep is spudering and losing power needs some help!!!

I bought the jeep with these mods in it and the don't seem to have been done very well, I am currently left with a maze of hose's and wires that run no where.

Just saw this. If you aren't running the stock ignition module down on the fender, then the computer isn't affecting things.

You can follow the same vacuum setup to get rid of a bunch of extra stuff if you want:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/vacuum-hose-hook-ups-735289/#post6872964

[nicknoty]

did this when i first got my jeep before i knew about the "nutter bypass" but i ditched the bbd for a cliford single plain and a weber 38/38 and clean the harness up and removed the computer. i like the through wall grommet good for running 12volt stuff like fuel pumps and other goodies

[BG33]

So what happens to the black wire that is still going to the dist after cutting the other 2 colors and running new lines from the ignition module to the dist? Do you run a new black wire also?

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by BG33

So what happens to the black wire that is still going to the dist after cutting the other 2 colors and running new lines from the ignition module to the dist? Do you run a new black wire also?

You can just to make all the wires new. This is the ground path from the module to the distributor's hold down foot which can get rusty and cause issues so a dedicated ground tag to this black wire is a good thing to do or even a ground to the distributor case.

[Batguan0]

I'm in need of an ecu for my 86. Working on a 4 to 6 cyl swap and would like to run it with one due to the emmisions testing.

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by Batguan0

I'm in need of an ecu for my 86. Working on a 4 to 6 cyl swap and would like to run it with one due to the emmisions testing.

All the ones I have done including a few YJ's had to still pass emissions on the ASM2525 dyno machine. They got really nice readings when manually tuned up.

Unless someone 'really' knows the CJ systems, they don't normally notice if the computer is kicking things around or not. I still run the basic emissions systems on them as outlined earlier in this thread. PCV, evaporative system (charcoal canister), TAC system (hot air flaps for the intake), EGR, etc.

What type of emissions do you have to pass down there?

[Mr-Rock]

Hi guy's,
I have a quick question and I'm not sure this is where I should ask it but... does the Coolant Temperature Switch do anything once the nutter bypass is preformed?

This is the switch I'm talking about.

[MoC]

Originally Posted by Mr-Rock

Hi guy's,
I have a quick question and I'm not sure this is where I should ask it but... does the Coolant Temperature Switch do anything once the nutter bypass is preformed?

This is the switch I'm talking about.

Once the engine is nuttered and the computer is disconnected / removed it does nothing. When the computer is installed it feeds information to the computer. Once you remove the old wiring harrness you will find the wires from it leading to the plug at the computer. Here is a good link if you do not already have it. What Controls What
If you are already nuttered you should look in to removing the old wiring from the computer. I pulled mine about a month ago and was really amazed at the amount of wire I was able to remove. When I did it I also repalced the old black plastic wire conduit with some new conduit from auto zone. Be carefull when you start pulling the wire your reverse lights are mixed in with some of the old computer wiring. I cut my harness were it comes through the firewall at the computer, removed all the black wire conduit and tape and pulled each wire out one at a time. Took less that a hour, including reinstalling the conduit and looks nice.

[stcarroll568]

I did the nutter bypass on my 150 4-banger a couple of years ago, and replaced the carb with a Weber/Interco 34 DGEC. Runs like a champ, and gets 22 mpg combined city/highway, and will just about climb a tree in low range!