[DonAltman3]

Standing on the passenger side of the jeep looking at the distributor.. do I need to rotate the distributor clock wise or counter clockwise (everyone says towards the block and that confuses the heck outta me)
And about how much in general to get it close.... quarter turn.. half.. just a touch ??

[scottsjeeprolet]

Originally Posted by DonAltman3

Standing on the passenger side of the jeep looking at the distributor.. do I need to rotate the distributor clock wise or counter clockwise (everyone says towards the block and that confuses the heck outta me)
And about how much in general to get it close.... quarter turn.. half.. just a touch ??

You need to get a timing light or find someone that has one.

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by DonAltman3

Standing on the passenger side of the jeep looking at the distributor.. do I need to rotate the distributor clock wise or counter clockwise (everyone says towards the block and that confuses the heck outta me)
And about how much in general to get it close.... quarter turn.. half.. just a touch ??

There is no way to tell from here, they are all put together different and who knows where the last person had it. When folks say toward the block, they usually mean the vacuum line, but...

You need a timing light.

You can sort of get it close with a vacuum gauge. You turn it until you get the highest vacuum, then back it off an inch of vacuum.

I really experienced mechanic may be able to set it by ear close, but engines are deceiving...

[DonAltman3]

No problem,
I can get a timing light. I just wanted to have it somewhat close before starting it up and running it. I'll go to the local auto store and check out the loaner.

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by DonAltman3

No problem,
I can get a timing light. I just wanted to have it somewhat close before starting it up and running it. I'll go to the local auto store and check out the loaner.

It won't be off that much and should start up in the old position. Just don't run it long like that.

[Mr-Rock]

FYI for anyone doing this in the future, before starting the bypass adjust the timeing to 8' btdc. thats what i did and it started right up after doing the bypass. I still had problems keeping it running until I dialed in the carb but it only took a matter of minutes before she was purring like a kitten!

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by Mr-Rock

FYI for anyone doing this in the future, before starting the bypass adjust the timeing to 8' btdc. thats what i did and it started right up after doing the bypass. I still had problems keeping it running until I dialed in the carb but it only took a matter of minutes before she was purring like a kitten!

You should recheck it now, it should have jumped when the computer was taken out.

[Mr-Rock]

Originally Posted by Mike Romain

You should recheck it now, it should have jumped when the computer was taken out.

I should have been a little more clear. the point I was trying to make was by setting the timing first it was closer to where it needs to be after the bypass so at least the engine would start, then yes I did reset the timing again when I was done.
Thanks

[DonAltman3]

DOH !!!

Now you tell me !!!

... I am just about done.. I figured I had had enough for the night and will finish it tommorrow.. I purchased a timing light so it shouldn't be too much more tommorrow to finish up. I went ahead and removed all of the purge valve system as well. I had a few extra stuff to remove with the cruise control above the washer and coolant tanks. But was no biggie. I went ahead and took off a ton of vaccum crap and removed the purge air system as well.


The only thing I feel like I am not certain on doing right was resetting the carb mixture screws.... I decided to try it at one and a half turns out from all the way seated.. should this be close to first start it.. or do I need to loosen them another turn?

Thanks guys...
I guess I will find out how well I did tommorrow evening.

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by DonAltman3

The only thing I feel like I am not certain on doing right was resetting the carb mixture screws.... I decided to try it at one and a half turns out from all the way seated.. should this be close to first start it.. or do I need to loosen them another turn?

Thanks guys...
I guess I will find out how well I did tommorrow evening.

All carbs and engines set up different for the mix, you will need to fine tune it.

I start at 5 turns out on both screws 'with' the stepper motor pins set as mentioned earlier, with their shoulder 1/8" from the back wall.

Once running, I get the timing set, then I fine tune the mix for 'best lean idle'.

To do that I start screwing the pins in, in 1/4 turn stages each, then give it a rev to set the flow, the turn them another 1/4 turn then give it a rev to set the flow, then.... until that last 1/4 turn starts a stumble happening. At that point, I back them off about 1/4 to 1/8 a turn.

I 'will' have to reset the idle speed usually more than once to keep it under 700 rpm while doing this.

[jtpaintball70]

THanks for the rightup. I might have to do this on my newly aquired CJ.

[jtpaintball70]

Question... When I do this, can I just pull the computer out from under the dash too? Or does it need to stay for some reason?

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by jtpaintball70

Question... When I do this, can I just pull the computer out from under the dash too? Or does it need to stay for some reason?

The computer can be tossed.

[scfdfiremedic]

I know it might be a stupid question, but do I need to do the nutter bypass if I have replaced the carb with a weber 32-36. I still have some problems with it running right, especially with the choke activating when cold. I also have a bunch of vacuum lines running around and don't know which ones to keep and which ones to get rid of.

I have an 82 CJ-5

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by scfdfiremedic

I know it might be a stupid question, but do I need to do the nutter bypass if I have replaced the carb with a weber 32-36. I still have some problems with it running right, especially with the choke activating when cold. I also have a bunch of vacuum lines running around and don't know which ones to keep and which ones to get rid of.

I have an 82 CJ-5

The Nutter bypass thread goes over the vacuum lines you need to keep to have a good runner.

If you have a computer in there, it has now gone into limp home mode which clamps down on the timing advance so yes, it should be made gone.

To see if the computer is there, check the ignition module plug. The 4 wire plug will have a purple wire that terminates at the plug 'with' a computer in the system, with no computer, the purple wire continues on at that plug.