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Unread 03-25-2009, 02:11 PM   #61
Mike Romain
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Off the Grid in Chester Grant, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 14,012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollbar View Post
Mike, maybe a 360* pic w/the air cleaner on/off so some can get a visual of the lines and how they are hooked up. I'm sure this will help clear up a lot of questions in this area.

Jim
I have camera battery issues right now, the charger is packed in a box in the storeroom after a move idea...

Dale did a great site on the 258, here is his links:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/vac-egr.htm
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/vac-tac.htm
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/vac-mcu.htm

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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 03-25-2009, 03:12 PM   #62
Rollbar
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?
Mike, if you do not have the guts for the stock air fliter will the set up still work w/out the TVS thingy.

If I don't have a SOL-VAC vacuum how would I hook this up/to what? Meaning I have the SOL-Vac but all I have routed is the CTO, dizzy & the canister hook up.

Oh, I cleaned my air fliter can & then cleaned out the pcv valve w/ spray brake cleaner, so far no oil in the a-filter can. The pcv was clogged some what.

P.S. I understand about the move, we are gonna move again in May.
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Unread 03-25-2009, 03:33 PM   #63
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollbar View Post
?
Mike, if you do not have the guts for the stock air fliter will the set up still work w/out the TVS thingy.
Yes, you can do without, it just makes the engine a bit boggy when it is cold, so warm up time should be maybe a bit longer.

Quote:
If I don't have a SOL-VAC vacuum how would I hook this up/to what? Meaning I have the SOL-Vac but all I have routed is the CTO, dizzy & the canister hook up.
You can just ignore the sol-vac and if you have, use the screw for the curb idle. Mine didn't even have the screw in it for the sol-vac, only the lower curb idle screw.

I have heard reports of the vacuum/electric part of the sol vac, if everything stock is left, will still work to bump the throttle up for an automatic or AC. You could wire the electric for the AC also easily if needed.

Some folks have added a fused 12 volt switch to this for a manual fast idle
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Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 03-25-2009, 03:36 PM   #64
Rollbar
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Thanks, didn't think of that w/the electric for the A/C (it's Peaches Jeep and she want's her A/C running for summer). Yes, it does take a little longer in teh morning/winter but no biggie.

Thanks for the info.
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Unread 03-30-2009, 11:55 AM   #65
hizza
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On an 86 CJ7 you're supposed to cut the orange and purple wires in the loom before the firewall and splice them to the ignition module. Are you supposed to cut another orange wire and splice it together with the orange distributer wire running to the ignition module?
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Unread 03-30-2009, 12:06 PM   #66
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hizza View Post
On an 86 CJ7 you're supposed to cut the orange and purple wires in the loom before the firewall and splice them to the ignition module. Are you supposed to cut another orange wire and splice it together with the orange distributer wire running to the ignition module?
There is no 'orange and purple' in the loom, only an orange. The purple wire stops at the ignition module's plug and a new wire from there to the distributor must be added.

I am of the firm opinion the job is best done by running two all new twisted together wires directly from the orange and purple at the ignition module to the orange and purple at the distributor rather than mess inside the loom.

Having two new wires twisted together like the factory wires are twisted together for RF filtering is the best. Otherwise you have this lone purple wire that can pick up all kinds of stray pulses.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 03-30-2009, 01:36 PM   #67
hizza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
There is no 'orange and purple' in the loom, only an orange. The purple wire stops at the ignition module's plug and a new wire from there to the distributor must be added.

I am of the firm opinion the job is best done by running two all new twisted together wires directly from the orange and purple at the ignition module to the orange and purple at the distributor rather than mess inside the loom.

Having two new wires twisted together like the factory wires are twisted together for RF filtering is the best. Otherwise you have this lone purple wire that can pick up all kinds of stray pulses.
I understand now! I did it right with the two new wires twisted together. My jeep fired up so easy when I went to warm up the engine so I could adjust the timing but after taking the choke off it dies unless I keep my foot on the gas. Do I need to adjust the idle before working on the timing or will the timing fix that issue. By the way, thanks for the help.
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Unread 03-30-2009, 01:37 PM   #68
hizza
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One more thing, what's the best way to keep the wires from untwisting?
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Unread 03-30-2009, 01:40 PM   #69
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hizza View Post
I understand now! I did it right with the two new wires twisted together. My jeep fired up so easy when I went to warm up the engine so I could adjust the timing but after taking the choke off it dies unless I keep my foot on the gas. Do I need to adjust the idle before working on the timing or will the timing fix that issue. By the way, thanks for the help.
Yes, you will need to adjust the idle and the carb mix and have the stepper pins in the carb in the right place.
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Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 04-01-2009, 07:04 PM   #70
ET48
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Wow!!! Great thread and great info!!!! I will be doing this bypass tomorrow.

Couple of questions though:
I have an 86' CJ-7 with the 258, with a Motorcraft 2100 carb for more power. I have trouble keeping freeway speeds up. Will this help by taking the ignition system out of limp mode?

Is there anything else that this bypass will effect?

Thanks and again, GREAT WORK!!!!!
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1986 CJ-7 LAREDO, 4.2L, 5 speed, 3.31 Gears, D30, D44, 2.5" ProComp lift, 3" BL, 33" TSLs.
1998 TJ SAHARA, 4.0L, 5 speed, 4.11 Gears, D30 (Aussie Locked), Ford 8.8, 4.5" Custom LA, XRC8, AA SYE, TW DS, ZJ tie-rod, Full-Traction front adj. track bar, 35" KM1s.
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Unread 04-02-2009, 06:34 AM   #71
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ET48 View Post
Wow!!! Great thread and great info!!!! I will be doing this bypass tomorrow.

Couple of questions though:
I have an 86' CJ-7 with the 258, with a Motorcraft 2100 carb for more power. I have trouble keeping freeway speeds up. Will this help by taking the ignition system out of limp mode?

Is there anything else that this bypass will effect?

Thanks and again, GREAT WORK!!!!!
Well... the motorcraft carb is usually for a V8, it will work on a 258, but not as well as a properly tuned 6 cylinder carb. Lots of folks do use them though.

If I was going to use a V8 carb, I would want headers and a high flow exhaust so it doesn't just bog it out.

That Carter-Weber BBD you had on there was the better carb in my opinion. Tuned and nutttered, the BBD pulls mine to 75 mph in 3rd and 4th buries the speedo big time with no urge to test 5th for top end... It will also purr up sand pit/ravine walls at 400 rpm without a chug. Also gives 21 mpg...

I know I lose highway top end fast when my carb is set too rich. I have played with the high speed mix to see. That 2100 can have different jets put in it I think that may make it better for a 6...

That said, getting it out of limp mode should help a lot, it frees up the timing advance for one thing. It also basically shuts down several miles of those vacuum hoses, well in limp mode, not much is working anyway.

Here is a good site for seeing what is what:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/wire-sml.htm
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 04-02-2009, 11:53 AM   #72
ET48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
Well... the motorcraft carb is usually for a V8, it will work on a 258, but not as well as a properly tuned 6 cylinder carb. Lots of folks do use them though.

If I was going to use a V8 carb, I would want headers and a high flow exhaust so it doesn't just bog it out.

That Carter-Weber BBD you had on there was the better carb in my opinion. Tuned and nutttered, the BBD pulls mine to 75 mph in 3rd and 4th buries the speedo big time with no urge to test 5th for top end... It will also purr up sand pit/ravine walls at 400 rpm without a chug. Also gives 21 mpg...

I know I lose highway top end fast when my carb is set too rich. I have played with the high speed mix to see. That 2100 can have different jets put in it I think that may make it better for a 6...

That said, getting it out of limp mode should help a lot, it frees up the timing advance for one thing. It also basically shuts down several miles of those vacuum hoses, well in limp mode, not much is working anyway.

Here is a good site for seeing what is what:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/wire-sml.htm
Mainly I like the simplicity of the Motorcraft carb and the cheap junkyard parts that can be found for them.

I have it running good now, it just seems like there is no top end. Which I can tell that the engine is leaning out when it throttles up. (Must be the limp mode limiting the advance of the spark, thus making it run leaner as more throttle is applied) I have the right jets for the engine and carb, but I have a problem with the engine leaning out when higher RPMs are reached as stated above. I am just hoping that freeing the timing advance up will get rid of the leaning out of the engine.

My plan is to "Nutter bypass" my jeep, and remove all the old EC harness and ECM computer. Then reset the timing and reset the carb. I'll let you know how it turns out tomorrow.

I added a cherry bomb to the exhaust, got rid of the cat, and kept the old manifold. Should flow enough I think.
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1986 CJ-7 LAREDO, 4.2L, 5 speed, 3.31 Gears, D30, D44, 2.5" ProComp lift, 3" BL, 33" TSLs.
1998 TJ SAHARA, 4.0L, 5 speed, 4.11 Gears, D30 (Aussie Locked), Ford 8.8, 4.5" Custom LA, XRC8, AA SYE, TW DS, ZJ tie-rod, Full-Traction front adj. track bar, 35" KM1s.
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Unread 04-02-2009, 12:56 PM   #73
BioTex
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Just curious how you know it is leaning out at full throttle conditions. If it is, wouldn't that indicate you don't have the correct main jets? How did you determine you have the correct jets? What altitude are you at? ( not familiar with OHIO topography...)
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Unread 04-02-2009, 04:45 PM   #74
ET48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
Just curious how you know it is leaning out at full throttle conditions. If it is, wouldn't that indicate you don't have the correct main jets? How did you determine you have the correct jets? What altitude are you at? ( not familiar with OHIO topography...)
At full throttle, I notice the engine starts to ping and knock quite a bit. Now if I keep the RPMs below 2,000 all day long, the plugs are a nice brown color and it runs great. Now if I rev it over 2,000 RPMs pulling away from stops and then pull the spark plugs, they are a crisp white color. The white coloring of the spark plugs and the pinging indicates to me that it runs leaner as the throttle is applied.

So the jets are perfect for the engine, just that upper RPM range that is giving me fits.

I sit at 1,000-2,000 feet range. I don't know exactly......
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1986 CJ-7 LAREDO, 4.2L, 5 speed, 3.31 Gears, D30, D44, 2.5" ProComp lift, 3" BL, 33" TSLs.
1998 TJ SAHARA, 4.0L, 5 speed, 4.11 Gears, D30 (Aussie Locked), Ford 8.8, 4.5" Custom LA, XRC8, AA SYE, TW DS, ZJ tie-rod, Full-Traction front adj. track bar, 35" KM1s.
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Unread 04-02-2009, 10:29 PM   #75
ET48
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Well,
I got finished with the jeep around 9:00pm and just now are getting around the laptop. The bypass went well and smooth. Basically just two wires to run for me, and adjust the timing and carb. I took it for a short test drive and it made alot of difference between 2,000rpm and 4,000rpm!!! I was doing burnouts all over the place I have yet to get the adjustment perfect on the carb but it seems to run really well. Everytime I floor it, it will cutout and pick right up. I am gonna run the jeep to work and pull the plugs to see how they look. My guess is that I am running a little rich right now. Thanks for the info and it really helped.
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ET48
1986 CJ-7 LAREDO, 4.2L, 5 speed, 3.31 Gears, D30, D44, 2.5" ProComp lift, 3" BL, 33" TSLs.
1998 TJ SAHARA, 4.0L, 5 speed, 4.11 Gears, D30 (Aussie Locked), Ford 8.8, 4.5" Custom LA, XRC8, AA SYE, TW DS, ZJ tie-rod, Full-Traction front adj. track bar, 35" KM1s.
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