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Unread 01-16-2009, 12:16 PM   #46
Oily
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfite View Post
Hey with the stepper motor off, how do you adjust the pins? I'm a noob! Thanks.
Heh...I was just gonna ask the same question, .
You just grab the pins and pull or push. Mine is very stiff. I have found three positions. In, middle, out.

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Unread 01-16-2009, 12:34 PM   #47
Oily
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Actually, there are no positions. Upon working mine more it is apparent that it can be in any position. The setting Mike just suggested seems to be a mid setting.
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Unread 01-16-2009, 12:53 PM   #48
Oily
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckycheesehead View Post
Step 2: If you chose to adjust the stepper pins using the idle mixture screws method, once stepper pins are at the level you choose, turn ignition off and unplug the electrical box from the back of the stepper motor (remains unplugged forevermore).
It would seem that you can plug the stepper motor plug back in so it looks, umm, won't burn the plug. Thoughts ?
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Unread 01-16-2009, 01:19 PM   #49
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oily View Post
It would seem that you can plug the stepper motor plug back in so it looks, umm, won't burn the plug. Thoughts ?
The computer can still kick it so if you unplug the computer itself, then Yes, that's OK.

The nutter just takes the computer out of the ignition loop.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 01-16-2009, 01:22 PM   #50
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oily View Post
Actually, there are no positions. Upon working mine more it is apparent that it can be in any position. The setting Mike just suggested seems to be a mid setting.
I find that mid setting gives me and the folks I have helped a nice 21 mpg 'and' the emissions sniffer likes it there also. The fact the sniffer likes it and it gives a sweet top end response implies it sets the mix right. My plugs burn normal.

That mid setting has the shoulder of the pins sticking about 1/8" from the back wall when it is back together.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 02-18-2009, 08:23 AM   #51
twoleos617
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so I read this entire thread and cant wait to get started on this. Seems easy and effective. After the Nutter is done, exactly what wiring can be removed from the CJ...everything connected to the ECM and including the ECM itself??

Last edited by twoleos617; 02-18-2009 at 12:18 PM..
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Unread 02-18-2009, 12:20 PM   #52
twoleos617
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...also, does doing the Nutter mean installing a manual choke if the ECM is removed?
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Unread 02-19-2009, 02:48 PM   #53
Mike Romain
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Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
...also, does doing the Nutter mean installing a manual choke if the ECM is removed?
No the choke is not affected. Here is a good site to browse, see his index and a good link on what the computer controls: http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/control.htm
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 02-20-2009, 06:23 AM   #54
twoleos617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
No the choke is not affected. Here is a good site to browse, see his index and a good link on what the computer controls: http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/control.htm
Thanks Mike...I had that page bookmarked and never thought to check it first! DUH! But, after reading the lists on that page it seems like theres still quite a few parts that need to be monitored by the ECM. Not that I doubt all the hard work and experience of others, but shouldnt these items listed still need monitoring?? If not, than hey, im ready to start untangeling and yanking some wires! Any clarification on this is appreciated; the more detailed the better! I'll continue my research as well.
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Unread 02-20-2009, 06:32 AM   #55
BioTex
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Twoleos,
May I make the suggestion to not cut any wires when you start removing them? I found that you can simply unplug them and the whole emissions harnes will come out. You will need to add one wire for the choke. I believe this is what you are referring to when you asked if the choke is affected.
You can unplug things one at a time, and test drive, and if you like it then you can remove the harness intact, and if you ever sell the Jeep (not that you ever would), the next guy can hook back up if needed.
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Unread 02-20-2009, 06:41 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
Twoleos,
May I make the suggestion to not cut any wires when you start removing them? I found that you can simply unplug them and the whole emissions harnes will come out. You will need to add one wire for the choke. I believe this is what you are referring to when you asked if the choke is affected.
You can unplug things one at a time, and test drive, and if you like it then you can remove the harness intact, and if you ever sell the Jeep (not that you ever would), the next guy can hook back up if needed.
In theory, yes, BioTex is correct. Everything SHOULD work this way and it will salvage your harness if the next owner three lifetimes away wants it.
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Unread 02-20-2009, 07:12 AM   #57
twoleos617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jatepper View Post
In theory, yes, BioTex is correct. Everything SHOULD work this way and it will salvage your harness if the next owner three lifetimes away wants it.
Thx fellas. thats answers my question perfectly.
three lifetimes indeed!!
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Unread 03-25-2009, 12:48 PM   #58
Mike Romain
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I don't think luckycheesehead will mind I am going to add a quickie on the vacuum lines after the Nutter for the Carter BBD here.

Here is what makes a decent runner that will pass emissions in Canada:

The PCV system including the canister and CTO valve and the EGR maybe as well as a ported line to the distributor. I also want the air cleaner lines working to prevent carb icing, emissions wants it for faster warm up.

On the Stock Carter BBD or Carter-Weber BBD like mine, the drivers side back corner nipple goes to the air filter TAC (hot air flaps).

The big driver's side port on the bottom goes to the power brakes.

The center back big one goes to the PCV with a T fitting for the canister purge. If you have a solenoid on this line, toss it as a recall, only leave the T for the canister purge.

Back passenger side to choke pull off.

The valve cover side center goes to the distributor. It 'can' T for the CTO feed 'or'..

The front drivers side corner one goes to the CTO valve. From the CTO, a line goes to the canister purge signal 'and/or' one can be fed off this purge line to the air filter TVS and from there to the EGR.

Some folks feed the CTO to the TVS and then split off the line coming from this to make the canister and EGR lines.

Everything else is pretty much trash.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 03-25-2009, 01:00 PM   #59
-jeep-jeep-
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
I don't think luckycheesehead will mind I am going to add a quickie on the vacuum lines after the Nutter for the Carter BBD here.

Here is what makes a decent runner that will pass emissions in Canada:

The PCV system including the canister and CTO valve and the EGR maybe as well as a ported line to the distributor. I also want the air cleaner lines working to prevent carb icing, emissions wants it for faster warm up.

On the Stock Carter BBD or Carter-Weber BBD like mine, the drivers side back corner nipple goes to the air filter TAC (hot air flaps).

The big driver's side port on the bottom goes to the power brakes.

The center back big one goes to the PCV with a T fitting for the canister purge. If you have a solenoid on this line, toss it as a recall, only leave the T for the canister purge.

Back passenger side to choke pull off.

The valve cover side center goes to the distributor. It 'can' T for the CTO feed 'or'..

The front drivers side corner one goes to the CTO valve. From the CTO, a line goes to the canister purge signal 'and/or' one can be fed off this purge line to the air filter TVS and from there to the EGR.

Some folks feed the CTO to the TVS and then split off the line coming from this to make the canister and EGR lines.

Everything else is pretty much trash.
is there a diagram for those, my new 7 dosnt have any vacum lines on it
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Unread 03-25-2009, 01:01 PM   #60
Rollbar
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Mike, maybe a 360* pic w/the air cleaner on/off so some can get a visual of the lines and how they are hooked up. I'm sure this will help clear up a lot of questions in this area.

Jim
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