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Unread 12-20-2013, 09:30 PM   #361
ElSid
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 26
I've done that. Problem is I use my cars as DD, especially if they are fun. . At the moment, my other car (67 'stang) is on blocks. If I had both, not really an issue. I had my stang registered as a normal car since I didn't have to worry about emissions.

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Unread 12-21-2013, 03:13 AM   #362
86cj74.2L
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2004 WJ 
 
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Search the net for Adventures Under The Hood.

His info for the 1984-1986 stepper BBD equipped CJ is invaluable.

I suggest printing out everything on his site.

As to what to keep or remove and still pass the smog testing? See what works first.
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Unread 01-27-2014, 04:47 PM   #363
graddy42
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1986 CJ7 
 
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On step 13, where does each liinr from the "t" connect? I know it comes from the distributor, then connects to the carb on the passenger side halfway on the carb. But where does the other line connect? Sorry if this has been answered. I'm doing this bypass on a carb that had no lines attached in the first place, it's cold here in GA so a quick reply would be much appreciated. Edit: and also where does the line from step 12 go? Pictures would help alot
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Unread 02-03-2014, 04:02 PM   #364
XxoSPARKSoxX
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Awesome thread

Mike Romain & Lucky Cheesehead,

This thread contains a wealth of info.

Thank You.

I simply read the thread until my questions were all answered.

The results are nothing short of outstanding.

Good work.

T.E.S.
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Unread 03-28-2014, 10:26 AM   #365
keltset
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I'm a bit of a newb here but have read everything and every link coming off this thread on the subject.


Background:

I just recently picked up a 1984 cj7 with the 258 i6 in it. I'm told the carb on it is a webber. It looks to me like almost all of the smog stuff is ripped out as I have wires just hanging all over the place. I had noticing that I'm unable to really get going up on the highway and that it slows down really bad going up hills at speed. 3'rd gear is about the high end that I can use unless on very flat ground. I have been having stalling issues where it stalls at idle from time to time and sometimes when shifting in the first or second gear.

I was thinking that this (nuttering) might be a necessity to help make it run a little better. So here is what I noticed:

It looks like the nuttering job was already (poorly) performed on the beast, It also looks like there is some form of after market ignition module that is mounted directly above the block on the firewall (I'm making this guess because the purple and orange wires from the distributor are spliced and going up to that) so I assume the stock is just hooked up to the harness but not being used.

To validate that the nutter job was done, I disconnected the computer (under dash) from the plug on the harness on it's rear allowing me to pull it out completely.

Questions:

The rig still fires up after computer removal and seems to run like it did before (just as crummy) so am I correct in assuming that it's been nuttered? Also, my ignition key cylinder just kind of stopped working and turns really loose or locks the steering wheel, so I use the key to unlock the steering wheel but to start it I currently have it on a two (one for the starter the other for the "on" phase of the jeep) toggle switch system that I just wired from the (two) plugs that connect under dash to a small rectangular box mounted up by the rear of the column, would this effect anything?

Second, I was trying to decipher all the vacuum hose issues and to see if that was done correctly but I do not know which webber carb I have. Is there an easy way to determine what model it is? I think it's running rich because I feel there is excess fuel smell (I think this is an indicator of running rich)... Is this correct?

Should I stop worrying about the vacuum lines and wiring for now and simply remove all the extra garbage from the computer harness then see whats left after the excess junk is removed and try going from there to get the vacuum lines / carb tuned / timing done? What exactly is the best place to start?

Another question I have is that I thought after being nuttered there shouldn't be any wires as all going to the carb? I have a single black wire coming out the (driver) side of the carb and if I pull that wire while the jeep is running it will stall unless I give it some gas or crank the hell out of the idle screw, Is this supposed to be there or is something wrong because that wire needs hooked up?

I'm in a smog check zone but there is no way this thing will smog right now since it doesn't even have a cat so I can't pass the visual by any means- I have it on a temp and will register it in a no smog check zone since I can't register it as a classic because I breach the yearly mileage limit- So at this point I will not worry about having to pass smog checks, I'm more worried about trying to get it running smoothly and to perform well.

Any assistance/advice would be helpful, and I hope I'm on the right track with trying to resolve this nutter job issue first and removing all the excess stuff before moving on to try to fix what's left.
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Unread 03-28-2014, 11:22 AM   #366
Mike Romain
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You are correct that it has the computer bypassed But I do not recommend you tear anything out until you find out what is wrong with it. Make it run first!
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 03-28-2014, 12:25 PM   #367
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keltset View Post
I Questions:

The rig still fires up after computer removal and seems to run like it did before (just as crummy) so am I correct in assuming that it's been nuttered?
Yes

Quote:
Also, my ignition key cylinder just kind of stopped working and turns really loose or locks the steering wheel, so I use the key to unlock the steering wheel but to start it I currently have it on a two (one for the starter the other for the "on" phase of the jeep) toggle switch system that I just wired from the (two) plugs that connect under dash to a small rectangular box mounted up by the rear of the column, would this effect anything?
If your switch system starts the engine and keeps it running, then I doubt that's your problem

Quote:
Second, I was trying to decipher all the vacuum hose issues and to see if that was done correctly but I do not know which webber carb I have. Is there an easy way to determine what model it is? I think it's running rich because I feel there is excess fuel smell (I think this is an indicator of running rich)... Is this correct?
Post a pic of the carb, and one of us can ID it for you. The fuel smell can be from improper carb tuning (ie: Air/fuel mixture), choke not opening, lack of a vapor canister, or a leak.

Quote:
Should I stop worrying about the vacuum lines and wiring for now and simply remove all the extra garbage from the computer harness then see whats left after the excess junk is removed and try going from there to get the vacuum lines / carb tuned / timing done? What exactly is the best place to start?
As Mike said, I'd leave it for now, and get it running well, first. Then, if you want to clean up the engine compartment, remove components and wires one at a time, and confirm you haven't messed anything up after each removal.

As for tuning, start with checking for vacuum leaks. Once you're convinced there are no leaks, set the timing, then tune the carb.

Quote:
Another question I have is that I thought after being nuttered there shouldn't be any wires as all going to the carb? I have a single black wire coming out the (driver) side of the carb and if I pull that wire while the jeep is running it will stall unless I give it some gas or crank the hell out of the idle screw, Is this supposed to be there or is something wrong because that wire needs hooked up?
Does the wire connect to a round black thing? If so, that's you're electric choke. A pic would help here, also.

Quote:
Any assistance/advice would be helpful, and I hope I'm on the right track with trying to resolve this nutter job issue first and removing all the excess stuff before moving on to try to fix what's left.
Again, leave all that stuff for now. Poke around this site and determine which systems you have, and if they are operational.

Good luck, and remember, the only dumb question is the one you don't ask.

Matt
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Unread 03-28-2014, 04:09 PM   #368
keltset
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Thank you both for the advice- I will take it! I should probably start up a new thread for my own issues to not further clog this one as it looks like I will be dealing with many other things as well. I will get some pics either later tonight or in the morning and see what trouble I can't get into Thanks for the link- I have bookmarked it and will go through the process of cataloging what I have and then get the carb ID'd, vacuum system checked and while I'm at it the fuel filter etc. then move on to timing and then carb tuning.
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Unread 03-29-2014, 06:20 AM   #369
sickcj978
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Just a side note mine ran like crap till I timed it and I also got mine with the nutter done and vacuum and emissions things removed and bypassed I timed it and it runs mint starts right up to love it and I have a webber carb too
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Unread 05-08-2014, 02:13 PM   #370
smbundy13
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am I correct to presume that the nutter also can apply to a 4 cylinder engine? I have an '84 and will be pulling the body soon (hopefully) and would like to take clean up my engine bay when I put the body back down. I will also be installing a new painless harness so I should have nice new wires to cut.

thanks.
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Unread 05-08-2014, 02:24 PM   #371
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smbundy13 View Post
am I correct to presume that the nutter also can apply to a 4 cylinder engine? I have an '84 and will be pulling the body soon (hopefully) and would like to take clean up my engine bay when I put the body back down. I will also be installing a new painless harness so I should have nice new wires to cut.

thanks.
Yes and painless doesn't come with any ignition wires, not even the ballast resistor according to another poster today so don't throw everything out until you are done.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 05-08-2014, 03:50 PM   #372
smbundy13
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Posts: 352
yeah. I wont be throwing it out or cutting it all up...
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Unread 06-02-2014, 04:28 PM   #373
KSKOOCH
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1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
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Just did this tweak on a 86' CJ7 I just picked up over the weekend. Remarkably unbelievable performance improvement on every single level. Excellent job on the pics and notes. Made the job a snap.

Thanks OP!!
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Unread 06-23-2014, 10:46 AM   #374
dn101009
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1986 CJ7 
 
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Hi guys. I am currently doing this on my 84 I4 150. I have a couple questions. I see the three wires coming off the distributor, orange, purple and black. I am taking the whole harness out, so what does the black wire go to? I am assuming ground, but I learned never to assume. Also, on the other end. I see an orange, green and black wires coming off the icm, but the purple wire is dead ended in the plug? Do I cut the purple wire out of the plug and splice it to the purple off the distributor. If that's the case what does the green and black wires get hooked too. I am trying to leave the harness 100% in tacked so someday (i doubt it) it can be put back to original. I am using plugs and what not off another 86 i have sitting in the garage. It will have a 351w so i don't need all that wiring crap.
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Unread 06-23-2014, 10:54 AM   #375
Mike Romain
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Black goes to black. It is the ground and uses the distributor hold down foot for the ground path. You can add a dedicated battery ground to this for a better connection to ground. Purple at ICM gets cut and spliced. Green is the coil negative trigger wire.

Be sure you twist the new wires together that feed the orange and purples for RF.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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