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post #346 of 434 Old 07-27-2013, 07:13 PM
sickcj978
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so i went to do the nutter and come to find out the PO did it all ready so i started looking at my harness and turned out it was hacked to death and the only connectors left were two temp sensors. i pulled the harness back and started removing the loom and found out some dumb *** spliced all kinds of **** and used duct tape to splice,dumb ***. Well turns out that my ecm was disconnected too so i pulled it all then checked my timing and it was at 4 degrees so i bumped it up to 8 and it runs awesome thanks so much for all the help this site rocks love all the great help and awesome rigs.

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post #347 of 434 Old 07-28-2013, 05:41 AM
86cj74.2L
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That was a factory splice and factory duck tape.
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post #348 of 434 Old 07-28-2013, 06:00 AM
sickcj978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L
That was a factory splice and factory duck tape.
Either way it was all disconnected and a lot was melted and I hope that it wasn't factory cause that's not rite there were wire connectors cut and bent around wire to make splices. I took it to work today and its running so much better after. Getting the timing right I just hope I didn't do any damage to the motor
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post #349 of 434 Old 07-29-2013, 12:48 PM
Fletchlives85CJ
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Newb here! I am Nuttering all over my new to me 85 CJ7, I do not see a purple wire at the ingnition module on my Jeep nor do I see one in my schematics. I do however see a light blue unused wire there. Is this the one I pair up with the orange and run to the disturbulator? BTW I have a good manual, and set of wiring schematics for 1984 4, and 6 cyl if anyone needs, I can send copies, or try to post them here...I am highly challenged when it comes to 'Putering...My rig is an 85 CJ 4.2l mostly stock...
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post #350 of 434 Old 08-25-2013, 06:27 AM
83cjnash
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Ok so let me get this straight. Does the nutter bypass eliminate all the wiring that has to do with the ECG? Thanks

83 CJ7, 258 ci, T176, 33x10.5 km2 stock axles with 2.73 ratio
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post #351 of 434 Old 12-11-2013, 12:22 PM
1949er
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How to - Nutter Bypass

Just my .02 , after a heart valve transplamt on the carter BBD - 20% improvement - I decided to remove it's Pacemaker - the MCU - at the local
U - Pull It I secured a wire harness segment from a Fairmont with the correct plugs for the Dist. , coil & Ignition Module and extended them to 62" plug to plug with the wire to the coil a few inches longer then it was a plug in and done - MCU is bypassed - another Big Improvement . afterwards I removed the computer harness with most of the vac. switches and found the valve cover , only extra wire I added was from the flat 6 conductor weather-pac connector to the choke coil - 2 of them are 12v. keyed ign. , the manifold heater is on the eng. harness and still functions , when I spliced the wires I soldered them and covered with 2 layers os shrink tube & split loom cover , don't forget the dielectric grease on the plugs , my 86 cj7 purrs now .
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post #352 of 434 Old 12-11-2013, 03:04 PM
86cj74.2L
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Hope your duraspark lasts longer than Grammys did.

I did a half nutter. I let the mcu still operate the carb. I took control of the spark.
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post #353 of 434 Old 12-11-2013, 04:18 PM
1949er
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By putting it back to the way it was supposed to be wired ? , 2 of the 4 are spliced to bypass the MCU the other 2 just travel the harness , I've never had trouble with the Dura Spark system unless some FBN part has been replaced by a Parts Changer - A Mechanic figgures out what's wrong and doesn't just throw parts in till it runs .
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post #354 of 434 Old 12-11-2013, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1949er
By putting it back to the way it was supposed to be wired ? , 2 of the 4 are spliced to bypass the MCU the other 2 just travel the harness , I've never had trouble with the Dura Spark system unless some FBN part has been replaced by a Parts Changer - A Mechanic figgures out what's wrong and doesn't just throw parts in till it runs .
Trust me I'm a mechanic. I don't throw parts.

Everything I do had to be bullet proof. If it isn't I would get a call from Grammy telling me her jeep won't or wouldn't start. Any mod I wanted to do had to work flawlessly by Monday morning.

I paralleled the orange and purple wires coming from the distributor and ran them to my MSD. I could probably remove the two vacuum switches (load sensing for timing) and two of the three vacuum solenoids the upstream and down stream air injection pumps) on the valve cover. But I didn't.

In my opinion the BBD and the MCU does a good job of controlling the fuel. The spark side to me had a lot to be desired.

I would drive it to California now, I trust it so much. In the beginning (I met my wife in 1998 and assumed the duties of CJ maintenance) not so much.
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post #355 of 434 Old 12-11-2013, 10:47 PM
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Well as a Retired Mechanic after working in pretty much all fields of repair for 45 yrs. when you take a controled unit and remove just one of many sensors or controling factors it can and will have an effect on the entire system , the computer controled BBD was a futile attempt to control smog even tho AMC had MPI on the 4.0 , the combustion chamber of the 258 is the main culprit as it is not efficent , the 4.0 is better and in conjunction with the MPI it does well , It seems to me if you take a carb and put a motor on it that is controled by several different components with ware factors as well as age and climate change it spells trouble , I'm building a non-stepper carter ( not much better ) for this motor and if it doesn't work it will get a Rochester 2gc.
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post #356 of 434 Old 12-12-2013, 03:31 AM
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It's been like this for long enough to know there are no issues with it.

When I had the stepper centered and unplugged the AF was ok below 40mph and lean above. Raising the needles to fatten up the AF above 40mph made it too rich for my liking below 40mph. So I hooked the stepper back up and woke up the MCU.

A few years later when I rebushed the baseplate I put my Fluke DVM on average and drove it around 8 miles and the times I recorded the averaging it averaged .49 to .51. Which is as good as any FI would do. I have at least 1 or two YouTube videos to prove it.

The needles out of a non-stepper probably would have had a better profile and solved my problem. However, I used the MCU and liked my results.
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post #357 of 434 Old 12-20-2013, 12:50 PM
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New to me 84 CJ. I am in an EMISSIONS zone. Working on finding out if the pulse air works and was wondering if "Nuttering" would affect anything. This is a CA Jeep, though I live in Las Vegas. They check to make sure components are there (CAT, PUMP (should be fun to explain the pulse air), and fuel restrictor) and then tail the emissions. I am getting a new exhaust/cat since I do not trust a rusty 30 yr old unit. I was planing on doing the Nutter and Rush upgrades. Any feedback would be great. I prefer to eliminate the computer and ... in the future, maybe do a junkyard TBI.

Last edited by ElSid; 12-20-2013 at 03:23 PM.
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post #358 of 434 Old 12-20-2013, 05:37 PM
86cj74.2L
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Did it ever have to pass emissions before you bought it?
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post #359 of 434 Old 12-20-2013, 06:20 PM
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Yes. It was a CA car. It was on non-ops to avoid fees when I bought it. Now titled in NV, looking to register it

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post #360 of 434 Old 12-20-2013, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElSid View Post
New to me 84 CJ. I am in an EMISSIONS zone. Any feedback would be great.
How about registering as a "Classic Vehicle" and being exempt from emissions testing?

Quote:
Vehicles registered with Classic Vehicle, Classic Rod or Old Timer license plates and driven 5,000 miles or less per year are exempt from emissions testing.

http://www.dmvnv.com/emission.htm#Classic
Quote:
NRS 482.3816
A Nevada resident who owns a passenger car or light commercial vehicle (having a manufacturer’s rated carrying capacity of 1 ton or less), manufactured at least 25 years prior to the date of application, may apply for Classic Vehicle license plates

http://www.dmvnv.com/pdfforms/sp34.pdf
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