How to - Nutter Bypass - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 434 Old 02-21-2008, 02:06 PM
John Strenk
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The reasons that Nutter posts are hard to find is that Nutter was pulling them. I guess it was so popular but illeagal that he was pressured into removing the posts/articals.

Some boards will not even let you post about removing and exhaust system or making any changes to the emmisions system. Try to ask about dropping the cat on the Quadratec forum and you'll bet hammered by the moderators. Seems like they don't want to run the risk of being party to anything illegal.

Even if it works and runs better with lower emmissions it's still illegal.
Fortunatly 25 years is the limit in my state for testing.
I wonder if I can still get in trouble if someone pulls me over for a vehical inspections. Techniclly I just don't have to get inspected. Nothing gives me permission to remove anything. Hmmm... I Know muffler shops won't touch my jeep.

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post #17 of 434 Old 02-23-2008, 04:18 PM
lopezzi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannibusX View Post
You skip the stepper motor adjustment and do the last portion of the bypass, which is the orange and purple wiring.
I also have the Weber 34/34. Does this mean skip the vacuum line instructions too? Or only the stepper part since we don't have that carb anymore? I'm having trouble finding the ported vacuum line behind the choke coil. Would this have moved with the 34/34?
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post #18 of 434 Old 02-24-2008, 08:27 AM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lopezzi View Post
I also have the Weber 34/34. Does this mean skip the vacuum line instructions too? Or only the stepper part since we don't have that carb anymore? I'm having trouble finding the ported vacuum line behind the choke coil. Would this have moved with the 34/34?
You don't have a Carter BBD. The directions are written for a BBD.

You must have vacuum for the distributor advance and for the gas tank vent 'canister/PCV' system.

A 'ported' vacuum only sucks when the throttle is opened so you should be able to find one 'someplace' on that replacement carb you have.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #19 of 434 Old 02-24-2008, 10:04 PM
lopezzi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
You don't have a Carter BBD. The directions are written for a BBD.

You must have vacuum for the distributor advance and for the gas tank vent 'canister/PCV' system.

A 'ported' vacuum only sucks when the throttle is opened so you should be able to find one 'someplace' on that replacement carb you have.
Yes I am aware that I don't have a Carter BBD and that the instructions are for a BBD, that kinda was the point of my post. I was wondering if anyone knew where a ported vacuum would be on the 34/34 or another place I could tap into.
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post #20 of 434 Old 02-25-2008, 02:50 PM
lastclod
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I hope I dont get pounded for asking this, but with the older 79 CJ's the nutter bypass isnt required is it? Will you still get a benifit from adding a additional ground at the disty?
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post #21 of 434 Old 02-25-2008, 04:31 PM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lastclod View Post
I hope I dont get pounded for asking this, but with the older 79 CJ's the nutter bypass isnt required is it? Will you still get a benifit from adding a additional ground at the disty?
The ground can't hurt.

And we want 'our' engines to run like 'yours' or pre 82 tune.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #22 of 434 Old 03-15-2008, 07:45 AM
Oily
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckycheesehead View Post
Seriously though, if anyone does find something missing or screwed up, let me know and I can edit it.
Brian
Brian, great job. It should be a sticky. I would however also like to see before and after wiring diagrams side by side. It will give one an overview of the wiring they are changing.
A question about this mod. What are we actually doing? Since a carb is disconnected electrically, in what way are we changing the way a distributor operates. What was it doing that we stop or, what are we making it do that it didn't ?
Thanks again Brian, Mike, and all through history that have found out this secret big bang low bucks mod.
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post #23 of 434 Old 03-15-2008, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
luckycheesehead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oily View Post
Brian, great job. It should be a sticky. I would however also like to see before and after wiring diagrams side by side. It will give one an overview of the wiring they are changing.
A question about this mod. What are we actually doing? Since a carb is disconnected electrically, in what way are we changing the way a distributor operates. What was it doing that we stop or, what are we making it do that it didn't ?
Thanks again Brian, Mike, and all through history that have found out this secret big bang low bucks mod.
First off, thanks! Secondly, I have updated the original post with a link to a before and after diagram from a website that everyone should bookmark (the Jeep Index). The link is just prior to step 3.

As for your questions, those answers can be found by doing a little searching. I am not the right person to answer those. Mike usually is, plus, I really don't know, I just know I had problems while idleing and wanted it fixed. This was a cheap, no-brainer modification that has made a ton of difference for me.

Some things I don't really care how it works or what it's doing as long as it's working right. Know what I mean?
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post #24 of 434 Old 03-15-2008, 10:23 AM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oily View Post
A question about this mod. What are we actually doing? Since a carb is disconnected electrically, in what way are we changing the way a distributor operates.
The computer controls the timing advance by relying on sensor inputs. Things like the knock sensor for one.

When any sensors are dead or if you change the carb for a non 'feedback' style one, the computer goes into limp home mode and clamps down on things.

You are basically just setting the engine into a pre-1982 mode so the ignition module and distributor directly run the timing advance.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #25 of 434 Old 03-17-2008, 09:34 AM
snoogans
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I bought my Jeep last April and with the electric control it ran like poop. Anyway to get what I'm asking I had got a pre-82 carb without the electric control and tuned it and it runs great passes emissions with flying colors. Now when I did that I didn't do the purple and orange wire part. Should I?

1984 CJ7, 258, T4, D300, D30, AMC20, ProComp 4" lift, 1" body, MORE SRS, TJ flares, 35" BFG Mud Terrains, Teflon coated wheels, Warn 8274
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post #26 of 434 Old 03-17-2008, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
luckycheesehead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoogans View Post
I bought my Jeep last April and with the electric control it ran like poop. Anyway to get what I'm asking I had got a pre-82 carb without the electric control and tuned it and it runs great passes emissions with flying colors. Now when I did that I didn't do the purple and orange wire part. Should I?
To the best of my knowledge, no. You did the modification the expensive way, by getting a new carb. The Nutter Bypass performs the modification the cheap way, by getting new wires.
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post #27 of 434 Old 03-17-2008, 11:03 AM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoogans View Post
I bought my Jeep last April and with the electric control it ran like poop. Anyway to get what I'm asking I had got a pre-82 carb without the electric control and tuned it and it runs great passes emissions with flying colors. Now when I did that I didn't do the purple and orange wire part. Should I?
The computer controls the timing advance. The computer is now in 'limp home' mode.

It sure won't run worse with it 'all' set to pre 82.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #28 of 434 Old 03-17-2008, 06:00 PM
snoogans
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cool thx. and it wasn't all that expensive I had a buddy that had a spare sitting in his garage

1984 CJ7, 258, T4, D300, D30, AMC20, ProComp 4" lift, 1" body, MORE SRS, TJ flares, 35" BFG Mud Terrains, Teflon coated wheels, Warn 8274
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post #29 of 434 Old 03-18-2008, 12:37 PM
bodge
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anyone do this with the motorcraft 2100? is it worth it?
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post #30 of 434 Old 03-18-2008, 01:41 PM
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodge View Post
anyone do this with the motorcraft 2100? is it worth it?

The NUTTER BYPASS IS FOR JEEPS 1982 AND NEWER WITH THE BBD CARTER CARB. IT MAKES THE BBD CARB ACT LIKE THE 1970'S AND early 1980'S CARB THAT DID NOT LOOK AT THE ENGINE OPERATION TO ADJUST THE CARB SETTINGS


This is a nice write up on the Nutter ByPass!!

If the JEEP OWNER goes thru this, Nutter, upgrade or change I would also recommend upgrading the cap, rotar, coil, and plug wires. I noticed you pics used the OEM Jeep grey distributor cap. This change gave me 2.5 mpg inprovement with out changing a single thing. This is often refered to as TeamRush Upgrade. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND BOTH, NUTTER & TEAMRUSH.

TeamRush by JeepHammer
http://www.junkyardgenius.com/igniti...eicompair.html

Regards,
Fred
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