How to - Nutter Bypass - Page 14 - JeepForum.com

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post #196 of 434 Old 11-11-2010, 06:12 PM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chanse View Post
I have a 86 cj7 that will not start, I have replaced the ignition switch. Starter, starter solenoid, ignition module new battery cables. Does the computer have anything to do with ignition or does it just control the carburetor? If it does control the ignition in anyway then I will try the nutter bypass
Does your engine turn over?

Meanwhile, yes the computer controls the spark signal to the coil.

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post #197 of 434 Old 11-11-2010, 09:42 PM
Chanse
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No the engine does not turn over. I can cross the terminals on the starter solenoid and It will turn over and run but sometimes the starter will stay engaged when i do this. But nothing when I try to crank it with the key
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post #198 of 434 Old 11-12-2010, 08:35 AM
OPlo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
Ditch the 4" vacuum line, it no longer functions and use that T for the distributor.

Some canisters are plumbed direct off this ported nipple on the valve cover side of the carb also, so if yours goes that way, leave it. other types of canisters can benefit from using the emissions port on the bottom front corner, most have that nipple capped.
thanks much - i did as you said with the 4" vac. left the other one in place. there is so much garbage running on the front side of the carb that i will have to push out of the way to get to the idle mix screws.

did the timing last night as well. worked out great. 1st time i'd ever done that. wasn't sure what the "notch" would look like. when i first hit the gun i didn't see it at all. it was buried below -2. not even visible. all good now.

on other odd thing. when i went to remove the reservoirs to get at the ignition module, the 1st bolt broke off in the fender well. so instead of going any further with that i just did the wiring to the ignition module from underneath. thankfully with the 33"s and a 3" BL (not ideal, i know) i can get to stuff without a lift.

still a bit confused on the carb adjustments. need to read up on that. looks like there is a metal shield on the front side of the carb i have to take off to get to the screws. true? it seems to be idling nice and steady at about 700 when warm. do i even need to mess with the carb? one of my wife's main complaints about he jeep is the smell. i have a magnaflow with no cat. would adjusting the idle mix help at all with that?
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post #199 of 434 Old 01-08-2011, 10:21 PM
Joe203
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I live in Beebe, AR. How can I contact you luckycheesehead??
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post #200 of 434 Old 01-09-2011, 07:45 AM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chanse View Post
No the engine does not turn over. I can cross the terminals on the starter solenoid and It will turn over and run but sometimes the starter will stay engaged when i do this. But nothing when I try to crank it with the key
You have solenoid side post connections or keyswitch issues.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #201 of 434 Old 01-09-2011, 07:46 AM
Mike Romain
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I live in Beebe, AR. How can I contact you luckycheesehead??
Haven`t heard him around lately, but then I haven`t been around much either.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #202 of 434 Old 01-12-2011, 04:34 PM
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Does it make a difference if the stepper motor is unplugged or not? The Nutter article doesn't mention it but someone here said to leave it unplugged. I'm going to go with the 1/8 out adjustment for the needles.
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post #203 of 434 Old 01-12-2011, 04:40 PM
scrapman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe203 View Post
Does it make a difference if the stepper motor is unplugged or not? The Nutter article doesn't mention it but someone here said to leave it unplugged. I'm going to go with the 1/8 out adjustment for the needles.
Step #2 on the first post of this thread says to unplug it once you have the metering pins in the correct location and IT STAYS UNPLUGGED FOREVER.

You leave it unplugged because you don't want the computer moving the metering pins after you have them set correctly.
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post #204 of 434 Old 01-12-2011, 06:30 PM
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I thought once the bypass was done the metering pins don't get signals to move from the computer. The oxygen sensor wouldn't have any effect either. Maybe I misunderstood.
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post #205 of 434 Old 01-13-2011, 09:10 PM
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If you wanted to run the distributor with manifold vacuum instead of "ported" vacuum would you just leave the distributor the way it is or connect it somewhere else? I read in other threads the manifold vacuum was better for advancing the timing.

Thanks to all for your help. I have learned a lot since getting the YJ on Dec. 1st.

I've just re-read this entire thread and answered most of the questions I had. I also see there are more than one opinion as to using ported verses manifold vacuum. I'll do what Mike says and use the ported.
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post #206 of 434 Old 01-20-2011, 08:04 AM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe203 View Post
I thought once the bypass was done the metering pins don't get signals to move from the computer. The oxygen sensor wouldn't have any effect either. Maybe I misunderstood.
The computer may still have a 'limp' mode that will set/move the pins.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #207 of 434 Old 01-30-2011, 06:08 PM
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WOW! Did the Nutter today and it is, as you have said, a whole new vehicle! I still have a few adjustments to make. Sounds like I have a little detonation but it really runs great, way better than before. The idle dropped from 1200 to about 850, smooth, no missing or roughness. This is a good mod!

So any best advice on correcting the detonation? Retard the timing or open up the stepper needles? I have it closer to 1/4" rather than 1/8"...
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post #208 of 434 Old 01-30-2011, 06:46 PM
Mike Romain
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Timeing first, then lean the pins likely. You have it rich.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos:
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post #209 of 434 Old 02-01-2011, 01:21 PM
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I'm getting ready to do the Nutter on my 86. Only question I have (so far) - the PO put a manual choke on. Should I leave it alone? If I need to get rid of it, is it as simple as disconnect and it magically fixes itself or what?

Thanks!!
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post #210 of 434 Old 02-01-2011, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvrshtr View Post
I'm getting ready to do the Nutter on my 86. Only question I have (so far) - the PO put a manual choke on. Should I leave it alone? If I need to get rid of it, is it as simple as disconnect and it magically fixes itself or what?
Thanks!!
You need a choke of some kind whether it's automatic or manual. If the PO installed a manual choke, then I'd leave it there and leave it connected assuming it's working correctly.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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