How to - Nutter Bypass - Page 11 - JeepForum.com

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post #151 of 434 Old 04-07-2010, 01:38 PM
LoveableLaLa
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Can someone tell this noob exactly what supplies and tools I need to do this?

TIA

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post #152 of 434 Old 04-07-2010, 02:12 PM
crzdmnky
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Needle nose plyers, and good timing light or a sensitive ear to how the engine is running, and two pieces of wire about 3ft in length. There should be a picture thread of this somewhere, here it is, hope this helps, if ya need any other help feel free to PM me, I should beable to guide you thru this pretty easily. And I am on all day till 11pm, because I sit at a job that doesnt require alot of demand.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/p...bypass-476720/
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post #153 of 434 Old 04-08-2010, 05:23 AM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoveableLaLa View Post
Can someone tell this noob exactly what supplies and tools I need to do this?

TIA
I use two new chunks of 16 ga. wire about 6' long twisted together for RF insulation to connect the module to the distributor without messing inside the Jeep harness.

I then use solder and weatherproof heatshrink to connect the wires at the distributor harness plug on the vehicle side of the harness so the distributor still keeps it's plug. At the module end, I use a male/female bullet connector soldered and crimped in place on the purple wire so when/if the module has to be changed it can still be unplugged and a quick crimp on bullet connector half will get the new module ready fast.

I solder the orange wire just before the plug at the module so the old orange gets cut out there. not up inside the harness near the computer like some do.

You will then need a small flat head screwdriver to set the carb mix screws and a timing light and I think it is a 1/2" box end wrench to set the timing up.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #154 of 434 Old 04-14-2010, 01:45 AM
budello
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Just do it. Very easy work. Now run very nice.
thank you guys
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post #155 of 434 Old 04-29-2010, 12:43 PM
crsltman
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WOW--anyone debating whether to do it or not? Do it!!! Fantastic!! been kicking it around for 2-3 years and after seeing this really easy to understand post, went ahead and what a difference--everything you've heard is true--thanks for the post and all the efforts that went in to it! 87YJ
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post #156 of 434 Old 06-06-2010, 06:29 AM
CDFLIGHT
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What a difference. I just did it to my 89 YJ because it would intermittently die. I did it to troubleshoot the microprocessor but will probably leave it that way. It is much smoother than it used to be. Thanks for the tech support and a great write-up. You guys saved me lots of money and time. Greatly appreciated.
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post #157 of 434 Old 06-11-2010, 05:05 AM
Mike Romain
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It was brought to my attention in another thread that if you want to keep the EGR working you might be able to get a bit more punch out of the engine by running the vacuum line to the EGR off the front bottom drivers side port on the BBD or the E port. On lots, this is capped on lots this was used. They made different flavors of EGR valves. This writeup says to use the S port which is OK for them, but a little more vacuum advance to the distributor may be had on some by using the E port.

Same for the Canister, most use a CTO so they don't turn on until the engine is warmed up, but some are direct from the S port. There are different flavors of chokes which can account for that.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #158 of 434 Old 07-03-2010, 03:16 PM
jwill
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I too, have some questions concerning the EGR hook up. Im getting ready to do the nutter bypass but i'm still uncertain where the egr connects after the nutter.

I have an '84, everything stock with a Weber 38. Also, 2 port CTO if that helps.

thanks
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post #159 of 434 Old 07-04-2010, 02:58 AM
BigOrange90YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwill View Post
I too, have some questions concerning the EGR hook up. Im getting ready to do the nutter bypass but i'm still uncertain where the egr connects after the nutter.

I have an '84, everything stock with a Weber 38. Also, 2 port CTO if that helps.

thanks
I don't think you need to change the EGR. That is not part of the nutter.

Currently Jeepless, if you get too frustrated with yours I'll take it off your hands.
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post #160 of 434 Old 07-04-2010, 10:28 AM
IdahoJeeper
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"Nuttering" helps but one last step has not been emphasized.

There is a thread out there about this but it needs to be included in this thread too. Apologies if it's in here.

The computer controlled ignitions, include a dizzy that has either 6.5 or 7.5* of mechanical advance. The computer adds more advance if it's required. When you bypass the computer (Nutter), you limit your mechanical advance to about half what it could be.

Pick up a dizzy for a '79 (non-computer) 258. The mechanical advance is 13.5 or 18* of mechanical advance. You'll get that 'snappy' throttle response. Search distributor swap for details on how to it

Did mine a couple weeks ago. Cost about $60 after core return from CarQuest.

'95 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, Auto, 225K, Forest Grn
'98 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, Auto, 210K, White
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post #161 of 434 Old 07-04-2010, 11:59 AM
mcmud
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Scott you have made a great point. As you've mentioned it should be included so here is a most revealing thread.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/te...wiring-595104/

In it among other very interesting things the readers will find how to flip the advance head of the pre-computer dizzy and the reported advantages that you may find in using the TFI coil.

jwill, in that your 38DGS Weber is most likely fitted with only the "S" ported nipple and if you're intention is to use it for vacuum timing advance I suggest that you not connect it to the EGR in any fashion. Considering the bleed of the EGR it will cause the vacuum advance to suffer that amount of loss and that reduces the amount of vacuum timing advance.

While being an advocate of the use of the EGR I want to point out that the genuine Webers can be tuned so that the EGR is not so necessary.

This is a most opportune time and I suggest that you read up on using manifold vacuum as the advance source so that the 'S' port would be free to use as the emission control just as it was prior to your Weber install. Here is a thread that touches on that very subject. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/timing-1055680/

Last edited by mcmud; 07-04-2010 at 02:34 PM.
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post #162 of 434 Old 07-04-2010, 02:39 PM
gmgreen
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Stupid question here so take it easy. I have a 34 deg carb on my 83 CJ7. I just tried to unplug the computer to see what would happen. It would not start. Plugged in back in and all is good. Do I still need to do the wiring change? I want to get the computer and associated wires out.
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post #163 of 434 Old 07-04-2010, 03:41 PM
crzdmnky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmgreen View Post
Stupid question here so take it easy. I have a 34 deg carb on my 83 CJ7. I just tried to unplug the computer to see what would happen. It would not start. Plugged in back in and all is good. Do I still need to do the wiring change? I want to get the computer and associated wires out.
You need to nutter it. Cut the orange and purple wires at your Ignition control module, and do the same to the wires coming out of the firewall on the opposite end of the engine bay, and use two long wires and connect them. This will bypass your computer.

Anyways, read the instructions and look at the pics, they helped me out when I did mine.
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post #164 of 434 Old 07-04-2010, 04:09 PM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoJeeper View Post
The computer adds more advance if it's required. When you bypass the computer (Nutter), you limit your mechanical advance to about half what it could be.
I believe it is the other way around, the advance is in there on the computerized distributor and the computer retards it (knock sensor for one part) so you do still get the top end punch with the stock distributor.

Quote:
Did mine a couple weeks ago. Cost about $60 after core return from CarQuest.
Did it make a noticeable difference other than just changing worn parts for new? More punch? Curious...

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #165 of 434 Old 07-04-2010, 04:11 PM
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmgreen View Post
Stupid question here so take it easy. I have a 34 deg carb on my 83 CJ7. I just tried to unplug the computer to see what would happen. It would not start. Plugged in back in and all is good. Do I still need to do the wiring change? I want to get the computer and associated wires out.
Sounds like a job for the Nutter Bypass. Oh, wait, that's the original point of this thread

Without the computer, the ignition system isn't going to work correctly. The Nutter Bypass will take the computer out of the ignition system loop.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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