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Unread 11-30-2011, 08:48 AM   #1
Outnumbered
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How to ID OEM unmolested CJ fenders?

When I bought my CJ it had a perfect tub with no rust. But, the front fenders and hood have been repaired and don't line up well. I took measurements and have fount the frame to be solid and square with no repairs, rust, tweaks, or cracks.

However, the driver fender and driver side grill sits back about a 1/2 inch when measured from the front of the frame. It looks presentable but I want to start to hunt Craigslist for an unmolested set of fenders so that I can some day restore it.

So, any tips on what to look for?

Thanks in advance

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Unread 11-30-2011, 08:51 AM   #2
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factory paint colors on the inside! or under hinge and clamp areas!
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Unread 11-30-2011, 09:02 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumpbumper View Post
factory paint colors on the inside! or under hinge and clamp areas!
Thanks, but mine has that (Jeep is original color red) but one fender is shorter than the other. It almost looks like it was welded together too short. I'll take some pics to show what I mean.
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Unread 11-30-2011, 09:48 AM   #4
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I'm not sure what you are talking about, but here are some general guide lines...

HOLES HAVE TO BE SLOTTED. No fender fits EXACTLY from the factory...
The holes are punched in the metal BEFORE it's bent into fender shape, so you can't have EXACTLY located mounting holes...

I hate it, but it's a fact of life. Bending/Forming dies stretch & shrink metal in ways that are unpredictable, so the holes are virtually NEVER exactly where you want them...

Enter a burr for slotting the holes...
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Unread 11-30-2011, 10:05 AM   #5
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The fast wY I can tell an aftermarket fender is to look at the rear most inner skirt. The oem fenders are formed smooth while the imports are rippled where the metal was forced into the curve. Also, the oem fenders will have more spot welds and have them closer together.
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Unread 11-30-2011, 10:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outnumbered View Post
..... the driver fender and driver side grill sits back about a 1/2 inch when measured from the front of the frame....
Are you sure all the parts are original and genuine JEEP ? Are you sure the front of the frame is square and the frame rails are equal length ? Remember, you are dealing with 1960's automotive technology (even with an 1980's CJ). Back then, close enough, was close enough. Measure forward from the tub or the firewall and you will probably find it measures a little better. If all the parts fit snugly, nobody else will notice a 1/4" difference here or there.
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Unread 11-30-2011, 01:57 PM   #7
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I think one fender is aftermarket. That makes sense and is probably why one looks to be welded differently where the seam is between the front and rear fender sections. When I get time I'll shoot some pictures.

The frame horns and frame are square and the top of the grill measures pretty square to the tub. The bottom of the grill is in 1/2 inch on the driver side or out 1/2 inch on the passenger but matches the fender OK. If I were to adjust the grill 1/2 inch it would be no where near matching the fender bolt holes even with slotted holes. I'm not sure which fender is "wrong"
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Unread 11-30-2011, 07:40 PM   #8
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Thickness of the gauge steel is another way of telling if it is OEM or aftermarket. Jeep OEM panels and tub are 18 gauge steel and most of the Taiwan panels are 20 gauge steel or 1mm thick since metric thickness is more common over there. If you take the front fenders off, you will be able to feel the weight difference between OEM and aftermarket.
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