How HOT is TOO HOT? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 44 Old 08-22-2011, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
turbogus
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Wound the timing up to 7 degrees with no pinging, going to see what, if any impact this'll have


The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
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post #32 of 44 Old 08-22-2011, 01:44 PM
motiv8ya
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Post #25 in this link has a good side by side comparison of my stock gauge vs. aftermarket gauge positions for my 401 CJ. Yours may be slightly different but it's a good reference.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ru...36/index2.html
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post #33 of 44 Old 08-22-2011, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
turbogus
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That's a great build thread Marine, keep it up!


"Join the Marines, travel to exotic distant lands, meet interesting stimulating people.... and kill them"
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The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
turbogus is offline  
post #34 of 44 Old 08-22-2011, 05:18 PM
chris142
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210 is perfect. It's hot enough to boil any moisture out of the oil and the rings and pistons are fully expanded and providing a better seal which helps prevent fuel from contaminating the oil.

210= longer engine life.

I've always considered up to 230 "Normal". Start watching it closer @ 235 and @ 240 find a way to get it into the wind to cool it off.

Your cast iron block and heads can take 250 for a short duration w/o any problems.

As already said the thermostat only determines the minimun operating temp. Once the stat is open it has no bearing on upper temps. Thats controlled by the condition of the rest of the cooling system.
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post #35 of 44 Old 08-11-2012, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
turbogus
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I agree for late model engines higher operating temperatures are nesessary, but my 360 is a '78 or earlier.

The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
turbogus is offline  
post #36 of 44 Old 08-11-2012, 09:17 AM
chris142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbogus View Post
I agree for late model engines higher operating temperatures are nesessary, but my 360 is a '78 or earlier.
Cars and trucks were using a 195* Thermostat back into the late 60's. The problem now is the fuel. It's designed for F.I. systems with 40+ psi of rail pressure.

Todays fuel tends to perculate or boil around 220F with a low pressure carbureated system.
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post #37 of 44 Old 08-11-2012, 02:22 PM
agear
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In my cj7 with a 258. I put like a 195 degree thermostat in there so I can get some heat and keep it in the winter. It's running right now in august at 205.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #38 of 44 Old 08-12-2012, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
turbogus
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I'd be happy at a top end of 205 but on the hottest days the swing to 220 has me concerned. I'm just getting relays together for that Mystique fan but having trouble finding this 70 amp relay mentioned by Rollbar.



He says it's from a Harley bike but all the relays I've seen are 5 lug for post 1979 changeover bikes. Anyone got a part number on these?

The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
turbogus is offline  
post #39 of 44 Old 08-12-2012, 05:35 PM
swatson454
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You could also consider a high-flow thermostat. It doesn't really matter how good your radiator, fans, etc. work, if you need more water flow than that little hole provides, the heat's going to creep up on you.



Edit: I agree completely with more timing. Lazy timing curves dump an enormous amount of heat into the exhaust ports and cooling system.

Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.
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post #40 of 44 Old 08-13-2012, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
turbogus
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Thanks for your response swatson, as it happens what with that flowkooler pump I know it's flowing enough coolant. One day last year I was woring on something unrelated and was blipping the foot throttle and happened to peer into the engine compartment. I noticed with each increase (blip of the throttle) the upper radiator hose would collapse. This was a recent (less than 6 months old) Gates hose. So I twisted up a metal (no paint) coathanger around some tubing I had in my garage and that took care of that. Since this time I've checked for flow of coolant with the radiator cap off and there is definitely good flow!

The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
turbogus is offline  
post #41 of 44 Old 08-14-2012, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
turbogus
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Well got that relay in as promised from a local shop that ordered it in for me and it looks like the 70/80 amp pictured but the shop favors Carquest and this was made in China.
I've (as many others have had) issues with made in China automotive parts before. On the other hand this is only a relay. I'm thinking either it will work or it won't, being electrical. I'm certain there's bound to be holes in this idiom but given this consumer desert I live and work in, it's the best there is available locally. I'm not going to start the well known rant about the internet shopping being the bane of local shops but in this area it's had it's full effect.
Going on the hunt for a pigtail for this relay today and if all fails I may go with a Hella unit I found yesterday on Amazon, much as I hate to do it.

!FOUND!
Hella part nos.
70/80 amp relay: H41510141 ~or~ 003510517
Harness Connector: H84703001

and they're coming from as nearby as............Georgia!

The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
turbogus is offline  
post #42 of 44 Old 09-10-2012, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
turbogus
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......and most recently found and got the 0.375/9.5mm terminals;
Yippeee! Got a box of 'em in and the ARE the right ones/size!



...and I have more faith in Czech manufacture than that of China. Also as I've promised on more than a couple forums if anyone else is building these relay sockets drop me a line and I'll mail you enough of these to get your fan project going on this 70/80 amp relay!

The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
turbogus is offline  
post #43 of 44 Old 09-10-2012, 05:09 PM
tevans59
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I have the same set up as Lucdog and does runs about the same temp, I tried the elecric fan and it did not cool it like it should and rose up to the 200+ mark, so I removed it and placed it in front and made it a pusher for the just in case I need extra air movement.... call some one like Jegs and they will tell you what you need.
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post #44 of 44 Old 07-16-2013, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
turbogus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris142 View Post
210 is perfect. It's hot enough to boil any moisture out of the oil and the rings and pistons are fully expanded and providing a better seal which helps prevent fuel from contaminating the oil.

210= longer engine life.

I've always considered up to 230 "Normal". Start watching it closer @ 235 and @ 240 find a way to get it into the wind to cool it off.

Your cast iron block and heads can take 250 for a short duration w/o any problems.

As already said the thermostat only determines the minimun operating temp. Once the stat is open it has no bearing on upper temps. Thats controlled by the condition of the rest of the cooling system.
Another element that I'm concerned with is thermal degradation of the motor oil at these temps.

These are several references and I know opinions are like biological grommets~everybody's got one, but here's one page of many I ran across;

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/.../oil-breakdown

The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
turbogus is offline  
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