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Unread 08-22-2011, 07:36 AM   #16
MoC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trader View Post
that is right. but if the cooling system is up to it, then starting at 180, it may never get to 195. it has nothing to do with the too hot problem, but everything to do with the numbers.

most people think of the thermostat opening to cool, which is true, but the main purpose of the thermostat is to let the motor heat up to an efficient temp.
Correct.. The purpose of the thermostat is to maintain the minimum operating temperature not to regulate the maximum operating temperature. It is true that if your cooling system is operating correctly installing a 180 thermostat instead of a 195 thermostat will cause you engine to run a few degrees cooler but not 15 degrees cooler. If your cooling system is not operating correctly and you are overheating changing the thermostat to a lower one will do nothing for you.. (unless your current thermostat is bad)

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Unread 08-22-2011, 08:06 AM   #17
turbogus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boomvader View Post
I would bet your particular electric fan solution is not pulling enough air through the radiator to cool the engine properly. I had this problem.
The 210* reading on the mechanical gauge is both at idle (after warm up) or running at highway speeds so I'm doubtful that this is just a fan issue.
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Unread 08-22-2011, 08:11 AM   #18
turbogus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC View Post
Correct.. The purpose of the thermostat is to maintain the minimum operating temperature not to regulate the maximum operating temperature. It is true that if your cooling system is operating correctly installing a 180 thermostat instead of a 195 thermostat will cause you engine to run a few degrees cooler but not 15 degrees cooler. If your cooling system is not operating correctly and you are overheating changing the thermostat to a lower one will do nothing for you.. (unless your current thermostat is bad)
I know you're right about the minimum operating temp that the thermostat regulates, but is 210* an overheat situation? The speedo cluster gauge (sender inserted into water port on left side of intake manifold) was virtually pegged, but the mechanical gauge (sender inserted into water port on right side of intake manifold) is where I'm taking the readings from.
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The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
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Unread 08-22-2011, 08:12 AM   #19
turbogus
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Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
If it was straight water and not under pressure, then yes, it would boil at 212*. Add 50/50 mix and the boiling point goes up to ~ 223*. Now pressurize it in the rad (16 psi) and that boiling point goes up to ~ 260+*
Yep, and I'm running 50/50 premix Prestone
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The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
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Unread 08-22-2011, 08:17 AM   #20
turbogus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CALOcruiser View Post
Assuming my '78 is comparable and the PO put an OEM equivalent thermostat in there, this would mean my stock temp gauge wouldn't move much from cold to running temp. I measured the temp of the hoses at 190* or so with an IR gauge. I see the needle move an 1/8" or so after it warms up. I never was sure how to know if the thermostat was good, short of replacing it. It seems to have a lot if needle range left.

Sound reasonable?
Assuming I'm correct, if the new(er) radiator is doing it's job the lower hose should be cooler than the upper, whith that in mind and going by feel, after I made the 6 mile commute to work this morning I felt that both hoses were of equivalent temps.
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The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
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Unread 08-22-2011, 08:37 AM   #21
twmattox
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FYI, on Grand Wagoneers (came stock with a 360) the temperature band hits the red area at around 240*... So, in theory, every thing under 240* should be within operating parameters.
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Unread 08-22-2011, 08:43 AM   #22
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I have a 360 also. About 400 miles on the rebuild, running a mech. fan no shroud and a 195 t stat and a 4 core radiator. My speedo temp guage is 7/8 of the way to being pegged out and my mech temp guage reads around 200-210. 210 has been the hottest it has been and that was with ambient temp of 100 to 105. I am fine with running at 210. it usually will only get to about 200 or so unless it is above 95 ambient temp.Even when it gets to 210 on the highway i turn off onto my gravel road i live on i only have to go about 3/4 of a mile at 25 mph to drop the temp to 195-200.
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Unread 08-22-2011, 08:55 AM   #23
turbogus
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Originally Posted by roadhog304 View Post
I have a 360 also. About 400 miles on the rebuild, running a mech. fan no shroud and a 195 t stat and a 4 core radiator. My speedo temp guage is 7/8 of the way to being pegged out and my mech temp guage reads around 200-210. 210 has been the hottest it has been and that was with ambient temp of 100 to 105. I am fine with running at 210. it usually will only get to about 200 or so unless it is above 95 ambient temp.Even when it gets to 210 on the highway i turn off onto my gravel road i live on i only have to go about 3/4 of a mile at 25 mph to drop the temp to 195-200.
Right on! That's just what I needed to hear and the ambient air temps are just what I was experiencing. Am considering to advance the timing from 5* to as near 10* as she'll stand to ease her cooling a bit though.
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Unread 08-22-2011, 09:47 AM   #24
roadhog304
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i have my timing set at 8* right now but i plan on raising it up to 10* and see if it gives me any more power. I am running 87 octane right now with no pinging so i think i can go up 2* and not have any problems.
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Unread 08-22-2011, 09:51 AM   #25
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With a 15 lbs radiator cap and a 50/50 water antifreeze mix the boiling point is around 255 degrees. As someone else stated with the current outside air temp I would not be worried at a steady 210. 210 is warm not hot. 220 I would start to worry.

Here in Shreveport we have been above 100 almost everyday this month and many last month. I heard that our average this month is 104. When we are in the 80's to 90's I run around 190 degrees and bump up to around 200 when driving 60. I have 4.88's with a t176 and pull 2850ish rpms at that speed causing it to run warmer. With our current outside temps as they are now I now run around 195 in the city and 208 - 210 at 60mph.
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Unread 08-22-2011, 10:10 AM   #26
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'Betty' only gets to 220+ during post running "heat soak" after shut down.
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The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
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Unread 08-22-2011, 10:25 AM   #27
LibertyJeeper
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What about just pulling the thermostat in the summer and reinstalling when it gets cooler?
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Just keep in mind: things are never as bad as they seem. These are jeeps, built by man and any problems you come across can be solved by man - even you! Best of luck.
Looking for axles 4.10's or higher
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Unread 08-22-2011, 10:40 AM   #28
turbogus
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Removing the thermostat would create uncontrolled motor temp conditions not reccomended.
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The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
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Unread 08-22-2011, 10:47 AM   #29
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbogus View Post
I know you're right about the minimum operating temp that the thermostat regulates, but is 210* an overheat situation? The speedo cluster gauge (sender inserted into water port on left side of intake manifold) was virtually pegged, but the mechanical gauge (sender inserted into water port on right side of intake manifold) is where I'm taking the readings from.
Unless you have checked the accuracy of the gauge and sending unit, i would not trust a 30+ year old gauge. Not to mention air trapped in manifold around the sending unit will also effect both readings.
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Unread 08-22-2011, 11:19 AM   #30
turbogus
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Hi John, I've reccomended your gauge troubleshooting pages to everyone I know over the years, online and in person. I've followed the TSM procedures for burping the cooling system and the 'idiot gauge' I'm referring to is a replacement gauge I installed about two years ago along with installing an Auto Meter mechanical gauge. I'm more suspicious of the sender for the electric gauge as I had another Echlin sender last year that went nutz in a similar fashion at a lower indicated temp. on my mechanical gauge.
Thanks for your thoughts though!
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The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
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