How hard to install clutch for a first timer? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 29 Old 02-16-2012, 05:13 PM
74Maverick
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Along with the belly pan methoud is supporting the engine with a 2x4 to the ground to prevent rocking which prevents bending the input shaft. Providing youve made nice and stable on your jack.


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post #17 of 29 Old 11-04-2016, 10:54 AM
Sevenseejay
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A question: when replacing the clutch on the 258, the bellhousing runout must be cheched? What are the chances that the runout go out of tolerance when reassembling the bellhousing? Thanks.
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post #18 of 29 Old 11-04-2016, 02:14 PM
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The first time I changed a clutch was in '73. It was in a 1971 IH 1110 1/2T pickup 3spd 4x4. I didn't have no stinkin help! At the first hint of mechanical work like that my friends all scattered like roaches! All I had was a scissors jack, two borrowed jack stands, an 18" box of Craftsman wrenches, and a garage with a hard concrete floor that I sub-let for a week from a pair of girls who lived upstairs.

I wasn't pulling the clutch because of any problem with it, the tranny had gotten noisy and needed a shop overhaul. Once I got the tranny out the rebuild was jobbed out. I yanked it out one weekend and put it back in the next. But having the tranny out I chose to replace the clutch, too. Here's the process:

Never having done this and having no manuals, I took the bull by the horns and went right to work twisting wrenches. There was an intermediate shaft between the tranny and the transfer case so the transfer case didn't need to come out, and there was no skid plate. That made things just a bit easier. I removed the intermediate shaft, got the shift linkage (3-on-the-tree) disconnected and the tranny bolts loosened up and out then slid it back (dropping the throw-out bearing inside the bell housing) and down onto my chest and rolled over to lay it on the floor. Huff, puff...whew! Removing the bell housing, clutch, and flywheel was easy.

Putting it back in was a bit more challenging. I got a plastic clutch alignment tool from the parts store, that was very instrumental in getting the friction disk aligned as I snugged up and tightened the pressure plate bolts before installing the bell housing so the tranny pilot shaft would slide into the back of the flywheel. As I recall the throw-out bearing went on the tranny shaft before it went through the back of the bell housing. The hole in the bell housing was big enough, but just barely. The trickiest part was getting the clutch fork (now inside the bell housing) mated up with the throw-out bearing then stuffing the pilot shaft into the center of the flywheel while jockeying the tranny around on my chest! Ooof, grunt grunt huff puff grunt cusss.....It's IN THERE! Bolt up the tranny to the bell housing, connect the shift linkages, put the intermediate shaft back in and let the truck down off the jack stands. Time for a smoke and a beer. To this day I am surprised I didn't break either of my arms patting myself on the back!

Changing the clutch in the Jeep should not be much different, but you will need to pull the transfer case to get at the transmission which has to come out to remove the bell housing. Unless you prefer a top-down approach and choose to pull the engine! I think that would be a bigger PITA.

Inspect everything for wear and if there are any doubts get a replacement part. This is a lot of work and you don't want to do it again for a long time. Unless you like taking things apart and putting them back together frequently. In that case replace all the fasteners with thumb screws and wing nuts!!

Makanak
PS IIRC the starter motor had to come out and back in, too. It was bolted to the forward surface of the bell housing. Two bolts, no biggie.
m
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Last edited by Makanak; 11-04-2016 at 02:51 PM. Reason: add post script
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post #19 of 29 Old 11-04-2016, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevenseejay View Post
A question: when replacing the clutch on the 258, the bellhousing runout must be cheched? What are the chances that the runout go out of tolerance when reassembling the bellhousing? Thanks.
Assuming there has been no roll-over or other collision that would distort the bell housing, the bell housing run-out should not change unless there is grit or foreign matter on the mating surfaces during re-assembly. Wipe the mating surfaces with a clean cloth, keep your hands and tools free from grit during re-assembly.

There is a procedure in the TSM if you want. I have only the '82 TSM but in a nutshell this is the procedure:

Transmission out, clutch out, housing mounted back on the engine and fasteners torqued to spec, one flywheel bolt removed. Mount a dial indicator on a appropriate length stud screwed into this bolt hole and secured against wiggle by a nut, set the indicator wiper on the rear surface of the housing, 1/8" from the housing bore. Rotate the crank by hand (pull all the spark plugs before doing this!) Runout should not exceed .010 TIR. Crankshaft end-play must be held to zero either forward or back for this test. Use a prybar under front end pulley or vibration damper, use no more leverage than is minimally necessary. This procedure needs a helper to turn the crank while holding axial thrust to zero while you watch the dial indicator.

Makanak

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post #20 of 29 Old 11-04-2016, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Makanak View Post
...garage with a hard concrete floor that I sub-let for a week from a pair of girls who lived upstairs...
I have to wonder if the girls caused more runout than .010". What's the whole story there?

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post #21 of 29 Old 11-04-2016, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevenseejay View Post
A question: when replacing the clutch on the 258, the bellhousing runout must be cheched? What are the chances that the runout go out of tolerance when reassembling the bellhousing? Thanks.
According to the Factory Service Manual, the runout must be checked. The specific thing to check is the rear face of the bell housing, not the bore. The bore runout apparently was not of concern to AMC

Also According to the Factory Service Manual, if the runout exceeds .010", then the bell housing must be replaced. There does not appear to be an official method of adjusting the bell housing to fix excessive run out, although with an assortment of shim washers it might be possible.

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post #22 of 29 Old 11-05-2016, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Makanak View Post
Assuming there has been no roll-over or other collision that would distort the bell housing, the bell housing run-out should not change unless there is grit or foreign matter on the mating surfaces during re-assembly. Wipe the mating surfaces with a clean cloth, keep your hands and tools free from grit during re-assembly.
Makanak
Many thanks Makanak.
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post #23 of 29 Old 11-05-2016, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
According to the Factory Service Manual, the runout must be checked. The specific thing to check is the rear face of the bell housing, not the bore. The bore runout apparently was not of concern to AMC

Also According to the Factory Service Manual, if the runout exceeds .010", then the bell housing must be replaced. There does not appear to be an official method of adjusting the bell housing to fix excessive run out, although with an assortment of shim washers it might be possible.

I'm not sure of this ken.. If the problem was the rear face of bell housing, you might resurfaced it (as the flywhell), but the FSM measurement procedure concerns only the bore..
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post #24 of 29 Old 11-05-2016, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Sevenseejay View Post
I'm not sure of this ken.. If the problem was the rear face of bell housing, you might resurfaced it (as the flywhell), but the FSM measurement procedure concerns only the bore..
Well, the bore is not measured until the flat back surface of housing has been measured. The procedure initially measures the flat back surface of the housing, essentially measuring deviation from parallel relative to a plane that is perpendicular to the crankshaft rotational axis. See step 8 in the procedure below:

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post #25 of 29 Old 11-07-2016, 01:55 AM
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Ok, I have re-read better.. surface runout and bore alignment are connected.
Hope this a rare problem. I see a thriving market of used bell housings, I wonder how can buy this without knowing it's right?
Many thanks
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post #26 of 29 Old 11-07-2016, 10:50 AM
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Put the damn clutch in it and drive it
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post #27 of 29 Old 11-07-2016, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevenseejay View Post
.. I see a thriving market of used bell housings, I wonder how can buy this without knowing it's right?
I don't think it is possible. First, the runout is a measurement that is made based on how the bell housing fits the engine. So buying a bell housing without an engine means it is not possible to measure the runout as detailed in the Factory Service Manual.

Second, a measurement as fine as .010" is not something that can be determined from photos or a description.

If a bell housing has been welded, repaired, or has major visible damage, I would not buy it because it is more likely to be out-of-spec.
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post #28 of 29 Old 11-07-2016, 12:30 PM
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Do really think cash strapped AMC checked the runout on engines coming off the line?
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post #29 of 29 Old 11-07-2016, 09:22 PM
Makanak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
I don't think it is possible. First, the runout is a measurement that is made based on how the bell housing fits the engine. So buying a bell housing without an engine means it is not possible to measure the runout as detailed in the Factory Service Manual.

Second, a measurement as fine as .010" is not something that can be determined from photos or a description.
Perhaps it can. You need a machinist's surface plate large enough so the large end of the housing can be placed completely on it and verified that end is flat then the distance from the surface plate to the rear surface of the housing can be checked at multiple points. I would expect that those two surfaces are parallel and should check out. If you have a housing that checks out installed on the engine then you have a standard that can be used to verify my theory.

Bore alignment will not be so easy but if the two surfaces are parallel then the bore is likely to be good. Of course final test still must be done on the engine.

Quote:
If a bell housing has been welded, repaired, or has major visible damage, I would not buy it because it is more likely to be out-of-spec.
Exactly.

However: I once had a JD 350 dozer (Diesel) that needed the direction-reverser case to be rebuilt - the clutch plates were all worn and slipping badly. I found a replacement unit that had been rebuilt and had new plates for far less than buying new parts for mine, but the housing had been cracked and welded. The mounting surfaces on both ends measured good so in it went and it worked great! So a welded repair is not necessarily a show-stopper. It depends on who did the repair.

Makanak

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