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Unread 02-15-2012, 07:04 AM   #1
ShowroomShine
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How hard to install clutch for a first timer?

I fear the clutch in my CJ5 with the 258ci and 3-spd is going to need replacing. During the test drive it didnt seem that bad, but after driving it around the farm it is evident it will need replacing. It shudders and jumps when letting the clutch out to get going, and slips going up any sort of small hill.

So for the first timer, how hard would it be to tackle this myself? I have my shop and average tools to help get the job done and I am fairly mechanically able. Just have never replaced a clutch before. Are there any DIY's?

What would be a good suggestion for a clutch kit on a budget?

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Unread 02-15-2012, 07:12 AM   #2
Erik719
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The job isn't too difficult. You will have to drop the transmission and that can be heavy/akward to deal with especially when you are putting it back in. But since you said you have help, you should be OK. Some of the bolts on the bell housing can be difficult to reach, I use a really long extension and access them through the hole in the cab (where the shifter comes in).

I would recommedn you get a factory service manual (or at a minimum a Haynes/Chilton manual). They will outline the steps and it is pretty straight forward. Double or triple the amount of time you think this will take you.
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Unread 02-15-2012, 07:20 AM   #3
twoleos617
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I was in the same boat as you when I did my clutch. since then, ive had the drive train in/out a dozen times with full confidence.
Here's a link to my clutch with of lots of GREAT help from other members. read through it and the other threads first. print pictures and descriptions so you have them handy.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...ement-1209661/
download the FSM from the forum.

i'd buy a LUK clutch kit. it's in 80% of the cars and truck on the road today and doeas a good job off road. i personaly dont see a need to upgrade unless you plan on hammering it off road.
check with your local clutch shops before buying the kit online. they'll ussusly steer you in the right direction with what you'll need.

there are a few MAW's you'll need to check on while your in there such as bushings, mounts, etc. so be on the lookout as you disassemble for things that need replacing. you'll want to do this job once and be done with it.

grab your camera and take LOTS of pics of EVERYTHING as you go. you'll need the reference and we want to see what you got so we can help you!

Welcome to JF!
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Unread 02-15-2012, 07:27 AM   #4
psajunk
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Do yourself a favor and get one of these.. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...e&apwid7c8Sfr3
Alignment was the only problem I ran into when I did it, other than the aforementioned hard to reach bolts and awkward/heavy parts.

mj
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Unread 02-15-2012, 07:33 AM   #5
twoleos617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psajunk View Post
Do yourself a favor and get one of these.. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQJeepQQCJ7QQCenterforceQQClutch_Alignment_ToolQQ1 9831986QQC7853006.html?apwcid=P1135867996W43b3f85c 7ab9e&apwid7c8Sfr3
Alignment was the only problem I ran into when I did it, other than the aforementioned hard to reach bolts and awkward/heavy parts.

mj
Whoa! $20 for that? thats a $2 part that should have come with the clutch kit! BUT, mj, your right. you must have one of those alignment tools.

Showroom, take your flywheel off and take it to the shop and have them turn it...no matter how good it looks upon removal. have them check the ring gear on it too. it might take them another 15 min and $20 to replace the ring if it has bad or missing teeth. This pretty much is a MUST DO.
Also take your input bushing with you and make sure it matches the one in the kit for your current tranny. b/c i was afraid of exessive wear on the bushing, i took my tranny with me to test fit the new bushing on site.
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Unread 02-15-2012, 09:31 AM   #6
74Maverick
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A hint for cjs USE THE BELLY PAN. Ive done many clutches but only 2 on 4x4s. What i ended up doing is making sure the tran/tcasewas strudy un the pan by wedging boards between cases and pan. Then used a good ratchet strap to secure the pan to a floor jack possibly with a boardto equalize the load. Then you can simply roll it back and out of the way. I freind to help stabilize it might be a good idea, my t176 wasnt bad not super heavy but my t150 like you have is very heavy. The first time i ended up with that 3 speed sittin on my chest with the mounting bolts diggin into my pec/shoulder and i was unable to lift it so i painfully rolled out of it. had to use an engine hoist to get it back in. so now i use the belly pan and floor jack method.


other than that its pretty simple just dont rush it be careful not to put strain on the input shaft as you re install it on the dowels pins.
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Unread 02-15-2012, 10:59 AM   #7
Pathkiller
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It's a good learning experience for a newbie. Not that intricate, not really any small parts to lose, pretty straightforward and kind of hard to screw up. Plus, nothing gives you a better understanding of how something works than taking it apart and putting it back together again. Both the trans and transfer case are heavy and awkward, so either rent a transmission jack or enlist a buddy to help you. Having a 150lb chunk of cast iron fall on your head is not pleasant.
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Unread 02-15-2012, 11:18 AM   #8
hp_lovecraft
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I installed one about 15 months ago for the first time. I'm no mechanic, and have only basic tools. For me, it was also a bit tricky since its my daily driver. I needed to have it done all in a day. (So I removed the front driveshaft, and dana300 stick a head of time).

The biggest hurdle is how to safely drop the trans. I used a floor jack underneath, and also had adjustable straps connnected from the ROLL BAR around the trans. This was to keep it from falling off the floor-jack. I then dropped the trans/tcase/skidplate all as one unit.

Then the bellhousing. The bolt on the top is nearly impossible to reach. It irritated me enough that actually cut open the tunnel cover larger:


Otherwise, removing all the other bits is straight forward. ie starter, clutch linkage, etc. You should have the flywheel resurfaced.... but I didn't. My only day off was thanksgiven, and all the shops were closed. You should also buy all new bolts for the flywheel... but that didn't apply to me, as I didn't remove it. I also didn't remove the old pilot bushing (wouldnt budge).

Working backwards, everything went fine, except I had a nightmarish time getting the trans back in. I spent nearly 90 minutes trying to slide it in the last 1/2". Back and forth.. different angles....drop and left... it nearly killed me. So I did what -everyone- tells you not to do, but I had enough.. and it was starting to get dark..
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Unread 02-15-2012, 05:42 PM   #9
Blue83CJ7
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Just an observation from my own limited experience... Before you do a clutch job, Think about whether you might just need a tuneup and new mounts or gears?

I just put a Howell kit in, tightened or replaced all my mounts (especially trans torque arm) and did the team rush and my clutch chatter pretty much went away and I can now go from a complete stop in 2nd gear for the first time without extreme vibration...

I am thinking that my main problem is that my fuel and spark were just not cutting it before and it was so jacked up and not running right under load rather than a clutch problem.

I think being under geared contributed as well.
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Unread 02-15-2012, 06:13 PM   #10
ShowroomShine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue83CJ7 View Post
Just an observation from my own limited experience... Before you do a clutch job, Think about whether you might just need a tuneup and new mounts or gears?

I just put a Howell kit in, tightened or replaced all my mounts (especially trans torque arm) and did the team rush and my clutch chatter pretty much went away and I can now go from a complete stop in 2nd gear for the first time without extreme vibration...

I am thinking that my main problem is that my fuel and spark were just not cutting it before and it was so jacked up and not running right under load rather than a clutch problem.

I think being under geared contributed as well.
The smoke from the clutch area when I tried to climb a small hill is what lead me to think the clutch was a problem. Now I would love for it to just be a tune up, however the clutch smell and smoke (to me anyway) make me think otherwise.
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Unread 02-15-2012, 06:22 PM   #11
hp_lovecraft
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One thing- If the clutch is really chattering, you might also have some sort of oil leak, like a RMS, or on the input shaft, fouling up the clutch-pack. Easy things to fix once everything is apart.
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Unread 02-15-2012, 06:47 PM   #12
BagusJeep
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Ditton on the oil leak. That may be the source of the clutch failure so when you have it apart have a good look.

My last one had lost a spring from the clutch plate which then proceeded to jam the mechanism, shudder etc. When you get it apart it is worth examining all the bits for why they failed.

If you do not want to buy the $20 tool, use a dowel or screwdriver that fits into the pilot bush hole on the flywheel and then wrap tape around it so it fits snugly in the clutch friction plate. You only want to centre the plate and this can be done with some care. There is a greater chance of getting it wrong and cursing and having to retract the box and try aligning it again but hey, it is $20.

Apart from the heavy weights an easy job on a CJ.
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Unread 02-15-2012, 06:53 PM   #13
MoC
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If I were you I would stay away from "The Belly Pan" method. Tranny, tcase, and pan weigh around 175ish depending on what u actually have. When sliding all that weight back and out it is possible to bend the input shaft on the tranny. Done it myself when I thought the belly pan method was the way to go. Take your time and work smart and its a easy job.
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Unread 02-15-2012, 09:11 PM   #14
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC
If I were you I would stay away from "The Belly Pan" method. Tranny, tcase, and pan weigh around 175ish depending on what u actually have. When sliding all that weight back and out it is possible to bend the input shaft on the tranny. Done it myself when I thought the belly pan method was the way to go. Take your time and work smart and its a easy job.
^^ This

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Unread 02-15-2012, 10:00 PM   #15
B2E
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did you try adjusting the linkage?
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