How to get a 258 running smooth with a weber - Page 5 - JeepForum.com

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post #61 of 88 Old 05-12-2012, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
kovic
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I don't think its a mechanical issue because I had it running pretty smooth before I ever even tried to get rid of the bog upon acceleration, then all these issues arose and here I am.... But I am not ruling anything out.... So I really appreciate your advice and I will try anything.

What worries me is the 1 1/4 out mixture screw..... thats the farthest in that it has ever had to be in...... I dont know why!!

Anyways Ill let you know how the team rush goes.

Thanks man

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post #62 of 88 Old 05-12-2012, 07:15 PM
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Next question

Was the bog lean or rich. They can both feel the same. But one will burn exhaust valves (especially if your egr is unhooked) and the other just wastes gas.

A lean bog will make the response to throttle feel spungy. Like a time delay.

A rich bog feels blubbery and more rough feeling. Like the engine is trying to clear its throat.
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post #63 of 88 Old 05-12-2012, 07:26 PM
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For the time being forget the vacuum tubes. Of course a layout will be provided should you get to the point you need one. Vacuum routing (other than vacuum advance)is not part of the issue at this point.


I'm not sure anyone read this as was intended.
Quote:
If after a thorough check on these things are behind and he still experiences the stall he might try to eliminate that with opening the throttle plate to the point of reading 2-3" of vacuum at the "S" port, without re-adjustment to the mixture. It would at least tell us if this symptom is related to an air leak or a restricted flow.
Please allow me to emphasize DO NOT RE-ADJUST the mixture screw once the throttle plate has been opened to the point that you read 2-3"Hg at the "S" port nipple. The idle speed will be what it is, not a concern at this point.

In other words find what you consider a lean best setting while the throttle plate is closed to the maximum that it can be set and still read zero vacuum then open the plate and give it a trial run with attempts to create hesitation and stalls.
.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ...

If you experience either symptom pull the advance tube at the distributor and plug that tube for the return trip and report how either run worked out for you.

If you still experience hesitation or stalling after both runs back the initial timing down to 6* up to 8*BTDC (max) and retry the tests.
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post #64 of 88 Old 05-12-2012, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, will give this a go tomorrow. Now, do I do these tests with manifold vacuum or ported vacuum, or does it matter?

Thanks mcmud,86cj, and swatson.
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post #65 of 88 Old 05-13-2012, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Was unable to do the test at the moment as I could not even achieve a noticeable good lean best idle, never got smooth and was mostly on the verge of dying.
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post #66 of 88 Old 05-13-2012, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, did the team rush. Was able to achieve a lean best idle at 1 1/4th turns out on the mixture screw, timing set to 8*. Drove it, still stalled. Turned the idle screw in until the S port read about 2-3 hg, then went and with two hard runs it did not stall on me. And the hesitation was not bad at all, almost non existent.
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post #67 of 88 Old 05-13-2012, 03:44 PM
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Which vacuum signal for advance was used with the first and last test...and did you make a run with neither?
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post #68 of 88 Old 05-13-2012, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Both manifold vac.

And no run with neither, I thought You only wanted me to try that if it still stalled after increasing the idle.
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post #69 of 88 Old 05-13-2012, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kovic View Post
Both manifold vac.
And this lean best setting was performed while the manifold vac signal was plugged...right or wrong?

Quote:
And no run with neither, I thought You only wanted me to try that if it still stalled after increasing the idle.
This is true, just wondering. Trying to pin point what mixture the carb is producing at that point immediately before and at the overrun.

How about one more trial if you will .
Without any further adjustment other than this time on ported vacuum and a completely warm engine of course.
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post #70 of 88 Old 05-13-2012, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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I found the lean best while the vacuum advance was attached, not unplugged. I have it disconnected and plugged while I adjust the timing, then connect it, then find the lean best, is that wrong?

And for the next trial, dont adjust the timing at all when I switch to ported?
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post #71 of 88 Old 05-13-2012, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kovic View Post
I found the lean best while the vacuum advance was attached, not unplugged. I have it disconnected and plugged while I adjust the timing, then connect it, then find the lean best, is that wrong?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmud View Post
Disconnect the vacuum advance tube and plug the source while adjusting the baseline settings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmud View Post
Stalling at the stop is a clear indication of needing more fuel flow below the throttle plate. I suggest that you once more run through the lean best setting this time starting with the hot engine and the mixture screw preset at least 3 turns out, air filter in place and vacuum advance tube disconnected and plugged.
The lean best setting as well as the trial run results are invalid.
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post #72 of 88 Old 05-13-2012, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, sorry. I will re-due them, but I cant have the mixture screw out 3 turns or the engine will not run.

I will report with the results when completed
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post #73 of 88 Old 05-13-2012, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Run tests will have to wait till tomorrow, but I did go out and re adjust baseline setting with vacuum advance disconnected. With the timing set to 10* I found the lean best idle to be 1 1/2 turns out on the mixture screw. With 1 1/2 turns in on the idle screw and zero vacuum from S port.
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post #74 of 88 Old 05-14-2012, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, did the run tests. But When i got out there today i had to adjust the timing again, i put it to 8* and the mixture screw out 1 1/2 turns. Seems I have to re adjust everything every time I start the jeep up

Did the run tests, same results. Stalled, so I increased the idle till the S port read 2-3 hg then drove it and it did not stall, however watching the oil pressure I noticed it did dip.

Also, When it stalled on the first run test it took a moment for it to start back up and it chugged black smoke for a few seconds.

Another thing, Backing out of my drive, when I hit the breaks fairly quick the motor almost dies.....
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post #75 of 88 Old 05-14-2012, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kovic View Post
Another thing, Backing out of my drive, when I hit the breaks fairly quick the motor almost dies.....
Do you have power brakes? Perhaps a vacuum leak internally within the brake booster itself and what may be causing your stalling problems.

What is manifold vacuum at idle? should be 17-22Hg with a steady idle without fluctuations. A steady vacuum under 8Hg is a vacuum leak of the brake booster or other vacuum lines.

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